Chorus BB clicking

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Mike
This is driving me nuts It has happened in the past & I would snug it more & it would go away. This
time it won't. A click on the downstroke of the chainwheel side / right side. I have taken it apart
& it looks ok but I cannot get rid of the click. In fact while trying to tighten the drive side/
right side which is usually the fixed side I blew the splines now Im not sure how I will get that
cup out in the future. But still the click on the downstroke of the chainwheel side is there. Any
ideas? Thanks

It might not be the bottom braket.
Try removing, cleaning (or replacing), greasing (or anti-sieze) the threads, and torquing them down.
Check your cleats and pedals as well.
Does the click only happen when seated? If so, it could be the seat post to frame interface or the seat collar clamp bolt.

Mike said:

This is driving me nuts It has happened in the past & I would snug it more & it would go away.
This time it won't. A click on the downstroke of the chainwheel side / right side. I have taken it
apart & it looks ok but I cannot get rid of the click.

---8<---cutting

Are you sure it's the BB? I once had clicking which I fixed by tightening chainring bolts. Another
time, it was the crank bolt on right hand side. These things you may have already tried, but am
mentioning in case you haven't. Tell us how it goes. /Robert

(snip)
. A click on the downstroke of the chainwheel side /

Quoted message said:

right side.

(snip)

Is the right crank arm hitting the outside of your fder cage? That will produce this sound you
are chasing.

(Mike) said:

But still the click on the downstroke of the chainwheel side is there. Any ideas? Thanks

Check tightness of chainring bolts. Watch chain go over the rings and see if a tooth on the ring is
slightly bent. Try another set of pedals.

You don't torque the drive side of the bb. It's face goes snug against the frame. The non drive side
gets the torque wrench.

Try backing it off some. The torque that is. Had the same prob w/my Record
BB and Coppi Millenium. The creak was only during downstroke on drive side
and would sometimes disappear but always return. I kept trying to tighten
the BB every time. I decided to back off on the torque every so slightly
and badaboom...not a sound in over 3000 miles now. Wicked!!
"Mike" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

This is driving me nuts It has happened in the past & I would snug it more & it would go away.
This time it won't. A click on the downstroke of the chainwheel side / right side. I have taken it
apart & it looks ok but I cannot get rid of the click. In fact while trying to tighten the drive
side/ right side which is usually the fixed side I blew the splines now Im not sure how I will get
that cup out in the future. But still the click on the downstroke of the chainwheel side is there.
Any ideas? Thanks

Robert Brown <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Mike said:

This is driving me nuts It has happened in the past & I would snug it more & it would go away.
This time it won't. A click on the downstroke of the chainwheel side / right side. I have taken
it apart & it looks ok but I cannot get rid of the click.

---8<---cutting

Are you sure it's the BB? I once had clicking which I fixed by tightening chainring bolts. Another
time, it was the crank bolt on right hand side. These things you may have already tried, but am
mentioning in case you haven't. Tell us how it goes. /Robert

Ditto here. I cured my click be removing the pedals and regreasing the threads. Go figure.

Jeff

Mike said:

This is driving me nuts It has happened in the past & I would snug it more & it would go away.
This time it won't. A click on the downstroke of the chainwheel side / right side. I have taken it
apart & it looks ok but I cannot get rid of the click. In fact while trying to tighten the drive
side/ right side which is usually the fixed side I blew the splines now Im not sure how I will get
that cup out in the future. But still the click on the downstroke of the chainwheel side is there.

If you ever get the cup out & replace it, try teflon tape around the threads, along with grease.

Paul Kopit said:

You don't torque the drive side of the bb. It's face goes snug against the frame. The non drive
side gets the torque wrench.

My BBs do (per instructions).

flying-<< This is driving me nuts It has happened in the past & I would snug it more & it would go
away. This time it won't. >><BR><BR>

What we check- -OVH BB-grease inside both cups(tap right one off) -grease on the flats of the crank
where the chainrings live -grease on the chainring bolts-make tight -check your pedals, the most
frequesnt cause of ticks -ensure the BB shell is faced -make sure the crank is installed on dry
spindle to spec(as per Campagnolo's recs) -ensure the cogset is tight with a wee bit of lub on the
freehub body outside -grease the saddle rails, where they live in the seatpost -if an aluminum
frameset, may need the 'warmed lindseed oil' trick.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote: ---8<---cut

Quoted message said:

-if an aluminum frameset, may need the 'warmed lindseed oil' trick.

*That one* I have not heard. Why, how, where . . . pls explain, sounds v. interesting ;-)

/Robert

Thanks for all the tips. I have tried most in the past even the backing it off. It is the BB & not
caused by the crank clipping anything nor is it the pedals as I have swapped them in the past too
;-) I guess I will order a new BB since I pretty well pooched the fixed cups splines when the tool
slipped.........arrrrgggg Hope I can get the dang cup out now. Thanks for the tips though. Mike

Mike said:

This is driving me nuts It has happened in the past & I would snug it more & it would go away.
This time it won't. A click on the downstroke of the chainwheel side / right side. I have taken it
apart & it looks ok but I cannot get rid of the click. In fact while trying to tighten the drive
side/ right side which is usually the fixed side I blew the splines now Im not sure how I will get
that cup out in the future. But still the click on the downstroke of the chainwheel side is there.

There are many sources for "BB" clicks: Threads not in one axis Facing askew Cartridge dry/loose in
cups Cups dry/loose in frame Cranks dry/loose on spindle Chainring bolts dry/loose Pedals not
secured to crank Issues within the pedal-bearings, cage, cleat retaining mechanism Cleat loose on
shoe And you need to eliminate each of those possibilities in turn until the click disappears. This
isn't rocket science, just rigor .

I've seen many riders waste incredible amounts of time repeating an error over and over with no
noticeable results.

We do a fair number of clicking new bikes here, both from other shops and home-built, that have
'intractible' clicks. Never defeated.
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Mike said:

Thanks for all the tips. I have tried most in the past even the backing it off. It is the BB & not
caused by the crank clipping anything nor is it the pedals as I have swapped them in the past too
;-) I guess I will order a new BB since I pretty well pooched the fixed cups splines when the tool
slipped.........arrrrgggg Hope I can get the dang cup out now. Thanks for the tips though. Mike

Mike,

Get the Phil Wood B/B. You'll never regret it.

Kenny Lee

(Mike) said:

Hope I can get the dang cup out now. Thanks for the tips though. Mike

Honest, on a Campy bb, the right cup butts against the frame. You cannot screw it in tighter with a
longer wrench. Practice is to put it in snug. I use just a short open end wrench. I hold the bb tool
in place with a skewer so that it doesn't slip. The left cup will go into the bb because it has no
flange. That is where the torque for the unit is achieved.

If loosen the left cup, and fasten the removal tool to the right cup, you'll get the tool to stay in
place and the bb will come out.

I've been developing a theory that bottom bracket creaks show up after a wet ride. Water, thrown
from the rear tire, seeps in around the seatpost and settles in the BB. This leads to corrosion and
creaking. I've found a high coincidence with my riding buddies. Any believers?

Seems like a good idea to have a vent hole in the BB shell to let water run out. Does
yours have one?

My Ti bike was always very quiet until I recently switched to a Campy BB from Shimano UN-72. The
Shimano "cups" were steel, installed with Loctite 242 (blue) and always quiet. The new Record BB has
aluminum "cups," had some creaking under heavy pedaling from day one, and seemed to get worse after
the first rain ride. Some creaking may be from the chainrings, which have aluminum fixing bolts
(ack). I'm going to try using Teflon-based plumber's pipe dope next time I reinstall it.

Todd Holland

A Muzi <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Mike said:

This is driving me nuts It has happened in the past & I would snug it more & it would go away.
This time it won't. A click on the downstroke of the chainwheel side / right side. I have taken
it apart & it looks ok but I cannot get rid of the click. In fact while trying to tighten the
drive side/ right side which is usually the fixed side I blew the splines now Im not sure how I
will get that cup out in the future. But still the click on the downstroke of the chainwheel
side is there.

There are many sources for "BB" clicks: Threads not in one axis Facing askew Cartridge dry/loose
in cups Cups dry/loose in frame Cranks dry/loose on spindle Chainring bolts dry/loose Pedals not
secured to crank Issues within the pedal-bearings, cage, cleat retaining mechanism Cleat loose on
shoe And you need to eliminate each of those possibilities in turn until the click disappears.
This isn't rocket science, just rigor .

I've seen many riders waste incredible amounts of time repeating an error over and over with no
noticeable results.

We do a fair number of clicking new bikes here, both from other shops and home-built, that have
'intractible' clicks. Never defeated.

Todd Holland said:

I've been developing a theory that bottom bracket creaks show up after a wet ride. Water, thrown
from the rear tire, seeps in around the seatpost and settles in the BB. This leads to corrosion
and creaking. I've found a high coincidence with my riding buddies. Any believers?

Seems like a good idea to have a vent hole in the BB shell to let water run out. Does yours
have one?

My Ti bike was always very quiet until I recently switched to a Campy BB from Shimano UN-72. The
Shimano "cups" were steel, installed with Loctite 242 (blue) and always quiet. The new Record BB
has aluminum "cups," had some creaking under heavy pedaling from day one, and seemed to get worse
after the first rain ride. Some creaking may be from the chainrings, which have aluminum fixing
bolts (ack). I'm going to try using Teflon-based plumber's pipe dope next time I reinstall it.

Noise from a Record BB in a Ti frame is not normal. (Noise from a Shimano BB in a Ti frame is not
normal, either)

The big variable here is not the cup material.

Yes, a drain hole in a BB is a good idea.
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

A Muzi <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

[snip]

Quoted message said:

We do a fair number of clicking new bikes here, both from other shops and home-built, that have
'intractable' clicks. Never defeated.

Dear Andrew,

Just in case a mysterious click occurs only when the rider looks down at his bike and then raises
his eyes again, here's a description of a mysterious noise problem that may help you keep your
perfect record:

A feature that often is associated with acquired Brown syndrome is an audible or palpable superior
nasal click on ocular rotations up and nasal-ward . . .

emedicine.comtopic552.htmOpen ↗

I've known about this odd business of clicking eyeballs for twenty years, but never bothered to look
it up--thanks for stirring me up.

Carl Fogel

Carl Fogel said:

A Muzi <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

[snip]

Quoted message said:

We do a fair number of clicking new bikes here, both from other shops and home-built, that have
'intractable' clicks. Never defeated.

Dear Andrew,

Just in case a mysterious click occurs only when the rider looks down at his bike and then raises
his eyes again, here's a description of a mysterious noise problem that may help you keep your
perfect record:

A feature that often is associated with acquired Brown syndrome is an audible or palpable
superior nasal click on ocular rotations up and nasal-ward . . .

emedicine.comtopic552.htmOpen ↗

I've known about this odd business of clicking eyeballs for twenty years, but never bothered to
look it up--thanks for stirring me up.

Dear Carl,

You've just proven beyond any doubt that you have way too much time on your hands.

HAND! 🙂

Bill "grouchy cuz rained out of my ride today (rare in /Sunny/ San Diego)"
S.

"Sorni" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Carl Fogel said:

A Muzi <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

[snip]

Quoted message said:

We do a fair number of clicking new bikes here, both from other shops and home-built, that have
'intractable' clicks. Never defeated.

Dear Andrew,

Just in case a mysterious click occurs only when the rider looks down at his bike and then
raises his eyes again, here's a description of a mysterious noise problem that may help you keep
your perfect record:

A feature that often is associated with acquired Brown syndrome is an audible or palpable
superior nasal click on ocular rotations up and nasal-ward . . .

emedicine.comtopic552.htmOpen ↗

I've known about this odd business of clicking eyeballs for twenty years, but never bothered to
look it up--thanks for stirring me up.

Dear Carl,

You've just proven beyond any doubt that you have way too much time on your hands.

HAND! 🙂

Bill "grouchy cuz rained out of my ride today (rare in /Sunny/ San Diego)"
S.

Dear Bill,

About two minutes, given impetus by Andrew and the marvels of Google.

Carl Fogel