"pas" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:I'm going to have to replace the RS SID SL at some point and I have a few
probably basic questions.
My first choice to replace it would be the Marzocchi EXR pro with 105 mm of
travel. My question is this, I read somewhere that an 80mm fork has to be
replaced with an 80mm.... What do I measure on the current fork to know the
mm's it is? Does it really matter?
As others have answered, it's a 63-80mm fork, with travel adjustment.
I got that from the description in mtbr.com.
Now, do you run it in 63 or 80mm mode? The cable-tie-around the
stantion travel measurement will work for you.
Keeping the travel nearly the same keeps the geometry of the bike the
same (steering angle and all that.) If you don't mind slower
steering, then get a longer-travel fork. I have found that most folks
get used to it, but some are really picky. When I was running my 63mm
Bomber on my Fango, it was way too twitchy. It was designed to take
an 80mm fork, and it shows. Shorter stem length also makes a
difference, and I'm guessing you run a shorter stem, so you could
probably take an 85mm travel fork.
Quoted message said:I"m pretty sure that when I had Mr
Adventures Judy replaced with and EXR last year, on his M2 Comp, that he
went from 80 to 100 and he's loving it.
That's a little less than 4/5 of an inch increase in travel (1 inch =
25.4mm). Does he notice a handling difference? He's a pretty
experienced rider, and if he doesn't notice, or it's small enough not
to care, you might be able to go 100. But you and your bike are
smaller to start with, so it might have a more exaggerated effect on
your geometry.
Quoted message said:Does the weight of the fork really matter if I"m looking at that kind of
fork?
The SID is light. Really light. And flexy. Really flexy. And not
too reliable, from what I've heard.
With a Bomber, you gain weight, but lose flex and reliability issues.
A coil-n-oil fork (the best kind) will be heavier than an air fork.
It will also be more plush. It's easier to set an air fork's spring
rate (more air = higher spring rate) With a coil fork, you have to
change coils. You would probably like to use the light springs,
because you don't weigh much.
OK, here's what I did: I bought a used Z3 Air (2002, IIRC) on eBay.
Chris Phillipo sold me the guts of his Z3 coil. I put in springs,
screwed the thing together after using new fork oil (cheap 7.5 weight
bought at the local motorcycle shop), set the preload and the
compression damping, and rode it. All told, this fork set me back
under $200, with new seals, wipers, oil and all the parts. It has
100mm of travel, and doesn't weigh all that much more than my 80mm Z2
Flylight Air. As in, not noticeable when riding. The tools required
are not that expensive (regular metric sockets and a oil seal tool)
and you, with your capabilities of doing stuff just following drawings
and a short written description, could do the work forever, and even
on Mr. Penny's fork.
I dig doing my own work, however. And getting a bargain on a fork and
parts is always high on my list.
Quoted message said:Based on all the unbiased AMB reviews I've read over the years, I
haven't really considered looking at anything else but a Bomber.. should I?
I"m certainly underwhelmed by constant seepage out of the SID,even after a
full rebuild by the RS techs at NORBA last year.
Reliability issues. Ugh.
There are plenty of places selling coil-n-oil Marzocchi forks, and
even last year's models on closeout. You have a good LBS who will
install the star nut, cut the steerer to length and set the fork crown
headset race.
I'll bet that if you search on 2003 Marzocchi 80mm/85mm coil, you'll
find some bargains. Like at Phat Tire, the MX Comp is $250. Sure,
it's an air fork, but it *is* a Marzocchi. 🙂 Light, stiff and
cheap. Just like Sorni. LOL.
My $0.02. And remember, this advice is worth every penny you paid,
pardon the pun. 🙂
--
Jonesy
