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Changing to smaller cranks

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
24 January 2005
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24 January 2005
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innes
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  1. As I mentioned in another thread, I am thinking of getting a Nimbus 29"
    unicycle.

    I have been reading a few posts since then, and I was wondering if I was
    better getting a pair of shorter cranks for my 26" Pashley Muni, and
    waiting until my skills, and bank balance could cope with a Coker?

    I think the Pashley 26" comes with 150mm cranks, would going to 127mm be
    worth the change?

    I am after a bit more speed, that was the original reason for wanting
    the 29" Nimbus.

    Innes

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  2. In my experience wheel size is a bigger factor than crank length when it
    comes to speed- putting 125mm cranks on my 24x3 (effective wheel
    diameter close to 26"😉 resulted in a uni that was fairly sluggish in
    comparison to my 29-er with 150mm cranks.

    --
    onewheeldave - Semi Skilled Unicyclist

    "He's also been known to indulge in a spot of flame juggling - but it's
    the Muni that really fires him up."

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  3. You may not get the full effect of a faster wheel that you want, but it
    is about the cheapest option and well worth the cost and trouble. If
    you do get the shorter cranks, be sure to try a slick tire as well. You
    may want to check unicycle.com for the Nimbus X cranks. They are light
    weight and cheap.

    Daniel

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  4. I agree with Daniel about those Nimbus X Cranks--they are light and
    tough and I noticed a big difference.
    About going for shorter cranks--just about every unicyclist I know says
    that they can go faster and smoother with those shorter cranks.
    Its a no-lose situation when it comes to getting smaller cranks
    anyway--you can try them on your Pashly, and if you notice a
    considerable change, that's great, you saved yourself a chunk of change
    by not getting a whole new unicycle.
    If on the other hand, the improvement is only slight, and you decide to
    get the 29 incher anyway, you still have those extra cranks that you can
    then put onto the Nimbus29. It's a step in the right direction that you
    can still use.

    Another thing--maybe just getting a bigger tire for your pashly would be
    helpful--there are tire-size limitations to the pashley frame, but
    perhaps you can still get a bigger tire that would bring the
    circumference of the wheel up to a faster zone of rolling...

    Good luck, Dogbowl

    --
    dogbowl - Putting the F back in Freemounting

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  5. I say, just get the coker. You'll be able to ride it. Besides, the only
    way you ever tame the coker is by riding it. I went from a 24 to a
    coker after I'd only been riding six months, and I have no regrets.

    innes said:

    *As I mentioned in another thread, I am thinking of getting a Nimbus
    29" unicycle.

    I have been reading a few posts since then, and I was wondering if I
    was better getting a pair of shorter cranks for my 26" Pashley Muni,
    and waiting until my skills, and bank balance could cope with a
    Coker?

    I think the Pashley 26" comes with 150mm cranks, would going to 127mm
    be worth the change?

    I am after a bit more speed, that was the original reason for wanting
    the 29" Nimbus.

    Innes *

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  6. You might consider 29ering your Pashley. If you or a friend have
    wheelbuilding skills/interest, it's a cheep mod. A decent rim, 29x2.1
    tire and some spokes cost about as much as one Coker tire. The stock
    Pashley rim is junk anyway.

    But on your original question, I changed from 150's to 110's on my 26"
    Pashley, and that was a big difference (I thought about 125's but
    figured I'd overshoot). You would definitely feel the change from 150 to
    125, but it might only whet your appetite for speed. I could do 12mph
    max on my 26x2.1-110, and average 7-8 over an hour long ride. 125s would
    also make serious muni more difficult, although for cross country stuff
    they're plenty.

    --
    cjd - Pashley apologist
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  7. Thanks guys.

    I think I will try changing the cranks to 127mm to try them.

    As Dogbowl said: it's a no lose situation.

    Innes

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  8. innes said:

    would going to 127mm be
    worth the change?

    Despite all the Go Coker responses, I agree with Daino149. The crank
    change is cheap and therefore worth it. But you still have the
    knobbled tyre on the Pashley unless you change that too (which is more
    of a hassle, and probably more expensive). Going to a 29'er or indeed
    a Coker is more expensive AND more effective for higher speed. But I
    maintain that you can't get a better effect/cost ratio than by
    installing shorter cranks.

    Be sure to swap cranks with the right technical procedure though.

    Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
    --
    It's impossible to get old when you ride a unicycle - John (what's in a name) Childs

  9. Here's my personal experience. I'm not a great rider - level 3 or so,
    and slow - so I'm sure others have different opinions.

    I tried a similar change: from 150mm cranks down to 125s on my
    Hookworm equipped 26"er. I was really happy with a much smoother ride
    and surprised I could still climb hills. I don't know that my top
    speed increased much, but it was easier to get there. Later I
    realized that instead of 125s, I somehow ended up with 140s!

    When I switched to the 125s I originally wanter, I was disappointed.
    Any benefit in speed from additional smoothness was offset by
    difficulty controlling the uni, particularly at low speeds or on rough
    terrain. I wouldn't put 125s on a MUni. I'd go for the 29"er with
    140s.

    Ken

  10. Innes

    My opinion, for what it's worth:

    1) Try some shorter cranks from unicycle.uk.com - they are only a few
    quid and it is always nice to have some different sizes available to you
    depending on the terrain you are intending to ride.

    2) As mscalisi says - get the Coker anyway, you won't regret it if speed
    and/or distance is your thing. Once you have got the basics of riding
    the Coker you could then try out some of the different sized cranks you
    got in step 1) on your Coker.

    Chris

    --
    munidobs - Level - whatever - who gives a ****

    "We have a firm commitment to Nato; we are a part of Nato. We have a
    firm commitment to Europe. We are part of Europe." George Dubya
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  11. I think I will get some 127mm cranks for my 26", soon, and then think
    about getting a Coker for the summer.

    I am unicycling more now, so hopefully my skills will improve before I
    try the move to a Coker.

    Innes

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  12. The difference between 150 mm and 127 mm is only really fine tuning.
    It'd make a notional difference of around 15%.

    I think Aspenmike rides his Coker further and faster than I'd ever dream
    of doing, and he uses massive 170 mm cranks! Cranks aren't everything,
    but they do make a difference to smoothness, speed and comfort.

    Generally, big wheels are faster over a distance. I did a lot of
    experimenting a a couple of years ago. I tried everything from 89mm
    cranks to 170s, and 20 inch wheels to 36. (Although not every possible
    combination!:eek: ) All other things being equal (tyre section, seat,
    skill level etc.) a big wheel will be faster than a smaller wheel with
    proportionate cranks.

    On a smooth surface with few hills, nothing is as smooth and precise as
    a 28 (not 29) on 110mm cranks. I commend this to the House as the most
    elegant machine you can possibly ride.

    For big distance, a Coker on 150s seems good. I commend this to the
    house as the best distance muncher of all.

    On the road, a 24 with 110s, or even 102s will shift surprisingly
    briskly. I've done a few 20 mile plus rides on a 24 with this sort of
    set up. I commend this to the House as a really silly idea that's great
    fun.

    A 24 can be ridden of road on 89mm cranks - be it ever so briefly. I
    commend this to the House as something to try once in your life.

    --
    Mikefule - Roland Hope School of Unicycling

    Everyone should be fatuous for 15 minutes.
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  13. I think it will be good to try different cranks on my Muni.

    Mike you seem to have done your research into this.

    Innes

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  14. innes said:

    would going to 127mm be
    worth the change?

    Despite all the Go Coker responses, I agree with Daino149. The crank
    change is cheap and therefore worth it. But you still have the knobbled
    tyre on the Pashley unless you change that too (which is more of a
    hassle, and probably more expensive). Going to a 29'er or indeed a Coker
    is more expensive AND more effective for higher speed. But I maintain
    that you can't get a better effect/cost ratio than by installing shorter
    cranks.

    Be sure to swap cranks with the right technical procedure though.

    Klaas Bil

    PS I posted this 15 hours ago via the newsgroup but the post doesn't
    seem to have made it through to the forum. - KB

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  15. Ken Cline said:

    *I wouldn't put 125s on a MUni. *


    Neither would I, if your intent is still to ride on trails unless
    they're relatively flat and easy.

    However if your intent is to ride on pavement, 125 is not short enough.
    When I had my 29er made last spring, I ordered it with 102s. Those were
    great for road. If, however, you still plan to ride it on dirt, stick
    with something longer.

    --
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  16. Maybe I would be better to leave my Muni alone, and go for the 29"
    Nimbus with short cranks for the road.

    But I know that sometime in the future that I will want a Coker.

    Not that that would be a problem, there is nothing wrong with ending up
    with four unicycles, is there?

    Oh decisions decisions..........

    Innes

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  17. innes said:

    *Maybe I would be better to leave my Muni alone, and go for the 29"
    Nimbus with short cranks for the road.

    But I know that sometime in the future that I will want a Coker.

    Not that that would be a problem, there is nothing wrong with ending
    up with four unicycles, is there?

    Oh decisions decisions..........

    Innes *

    Like you I started on a Pashley then, due to cost, bought a 28". Within
    a year I had a Coker as well so you don't save money! Since then the 28"
    has been upgraded into an improved 29er.

    Overall I prefer the Coker for road riding, although I still take out
    the 29er for variety. The main disadvantage of a Coker is getting it in
    the car (with luggage and family). In this situation the 29er is far
    superior hence I would never get rid of either wheel size.

    In the last couple of years Coker availability in the UK has been
    intermittent. From Roger's latest newsletter I believe a batch is due in
    around now, you might want to consider this or be prepared to wait!

    I currently have 6 assembled wheels, 8 frames, a spare hub, lots of
    cranks & even more old saddles. Therefore 4 Uni's would be fine!

    Keith

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