Changing Casset

It is very easy to do. You will need:

- a lockring tool that is specific to your type of cassette (ergo, 10 speed Shimano);
- a chain whip; and
- a wrench to actually 'turn' the lockring tool.

Take a look at the park tool website for a step-by-step how to. The link below should be the page dealing with cassette removal...

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=48

I bought the lockring tool but get by without a chain whip. I put an old chain on the old cassette and clamp the other end of the chain in a vise.

I use a torque wrench to tighten the lockring. Most 1/2" drives have enough leverage to destroy a lockring.

Thanks for the advice. I would not have thought of the chain tool.

Also forgot to ask do you know what value you would torque the casset to ?

ROCYC said:

Also forgot to ask do you know what value you would torque the casset to ?

The factory spec torque for Shimano lockrings is far too high, IMO. Whenever I get a wheel back from a wheelbuilder, if I was foolish enough to give it to them with a cassette on it, I have a great struggle getting the cassette off next time I need to. I tighten them about as tightly as I would a stem bolt, maybe about 5-6 N m, and I have never had one loosen.

I honestly do not think that you need a torque wrench for this application. Yes, as some people have pointed out, you can over-torque the lockring if you just tighten too much, but to secure a lockring, you only have to apply a minimum amount of pressure to tighten. With this minimum amount of pressure, the chances are that the lockring is not coming off. I use a torque wrench, but only for my carbon parts.

Runce

ROCYC said:

Also forgot to ask do you know what value you would torque the casset to ?

lohsnest said:

I honestly do not think that you need a torque wrench for this application. Yes, as some people have pointed out, you can over-torque the lockring if you just tighten too much, but to secure a lockring, you only have to apply a minimum amount of pressure to tighten. With this minimum amount of pressure, the chances are that the lockring is not coming off. I use a torque wrench, but only for my carbon parts.

Runce

Agreed. I have never used a torque wrench for this job, I simply cited a torque value to give an idea of what was required. For comparison, the Shimano spec torque for the lockring is 30-50 N m, which is outrageously tight.