Help! I put a new chain on my bike, along with a new cassette. It's a SCRAM chain designed for bike with nine cogs, like mine, and is the same kind of chain I had on before.
The chain skips (well, it drops down a cog- the the third largest to the fourth - and then back up). It does this when I'm in the middle chainring and when I'm applying power up a steep hill.
It doesn't seem to skip in the big chainring or the smallest. Just the middle. I've tried three cassettes, now - the new one, one that never had much use, and my old one.
Any idea on what could be causing this? Could it be the middle chainring? Or is the chain a more likely culprit? (Rhetorical question: How much more money do I have to spend?!?)
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"Dave M Wyman" <[email hidden]> schrieb im Newsbeitrag news:u78Ha.212160$M01.95035@sccrnsc02...
Quoted message said:
Help! I put a new chain on my bike, along with a new cassette. It's a SCRAM chain designed for bike with nine cogs, like mine, and is the same kind of chain I had on before.
The chain skips (well, it drops down a cog- the the third largest to the fourth - and then back up). It does this when I'm in the middle chainring and when I'm applying power up a steep hill.
It doesn't seem to skip in the big chainring or the smallest. Just the middle. I've tried three cassettes, now - the new one, one that never had much use, and my old one.
Any idea on what could be causing this? Could it be the middle chainring? Or is the chain a more likely culprit? (Rhetorical question: How much more money do I have to spend?!?)
It sounds like your r-drlr is out of adjustment. There are three adjustment screws on it. Two are just like the adjustment on the f-drlr, high stop and low stop. The third governs how far the jockey wheel sits from the casette and how much tension is on the cog-shain interface. Try adjusting this one out. Take a look at Leonard Zinn's "Zinn and the Art of Mountainbike Maintenance" for more info.
"Dave M Wyman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:u78Ha.212160$M01.95035@sccrnsc02...
Quoted message said:
Help! I put a new chain on my bike, along with a new cassette. It's a SCRAM chain designed for bike with nine cogs, like mine, and is the same kind of chain I had on before.
The chain skips (well, it drops down a cog- the the third largest to the fourth - and then back up). It does this when I'm in the middle chainring and when I'm applying power up a steep hill.
It doesn't seem to skip in the big chainring or the smallest. Just the middle. I've tried three cassettes, now - the new one, one that never had much use, and my old one.
Any idea on what could be causing this? Could it be the middle chainring? Or is the chain a more likely culprit? (Rhetorical question: How much more money do I have to spend?!?)
Dave S. may also be correct, but it sounds like your rear cable tension isn't quite right. Try adding tension to the cable at the derailleur 1/8 turn (at most) at a time. Usually when the chain moves back and forth the cause is that the cable has too much slack, so it can't offset the springs in the derailleur. Too much tension and it will jump cogs.
Count your turns and remember them, just in case you need to reset the tension. Happy fiddling.
"Cameron" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
"Dave M Wyman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:u78Ha.212160$M01.95035@sccrnsc02...
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Help! I put a new chain on my bike, along with a new cassette. It's a SCRAM chain designed for bike with nine cogs, like mine, and is the same kind of chain I had on before.
The chain skips (well, it drops down a cog- the the third largest to the fourth - and then back up). It does this when I'm in the middle chainring and when I'm applying power up a steep hill.
It doesn't seem to skip in the big chainring or the smallest. Just the middle. I've tried three cassettes, now - the new one, one that never had much use, and my old one.
Any idea on what could be causing this? Could it be the middle chainring? Or is the chain a more likely culprit? (Rhetorical question: How much more money do I have to spend?!?)
Dave S. may also be correct, but it sounds like your rear cable tension
isn't
Quoted message said:
quite right. Try adding tension to the cable at the derailleur 1/8 turn
(at most)
Quoted message said:
at a time. Usually when the chain moves back and forth the cause is that
the
Quoted message said:
cable has too much slack, so it can't offset the springs in the
derailleur. Too
Quoted message said:
much tension and it will jump cogs.
Count your turns and remember them, just in case you need to reset the
tension.
Quoted message said:
Happy fiddling.
Another possibility is the alignment or the rear hanger to the wheel. Get to the LBS and have them screw a tool into the thread for the rear mech and then the hanger can be adjusted so it is parallel to the rear wheel, top bottom and directly rear. It is surprising just how many rear hangers are out. My LBS that is closing in 2 weeks used to check all new bikes and found many out, some quite bad. I have a Scott GZero Strike mine was ok. I had a nasty crash and my rear gear started this. I changed the cable and it was about 90% right then had the hanger aligned and so far OK. Worth a try and only takes 5 mins. One nasty incident I have had was the rear cassette coming loose, check the nut! Clean the thread and locktight it.
On Mon, 16 Jun 2003 00:24:58 GMT, Dave M Wyman <[email hidden]> wrote:
[snip [censored]]
Should have got an SS. :-P
Peace, Bill The mind serves properly as a window glass rather than as a reflector, that is, the mind should give an immediate view instead of an interpretation of the world. :-]
On Mon, 16 Jun 2003 00:24:58 GMT, Dave M Wyman <[email hidden]> wrote:
[snip [censored]]
Should have got an SS. :-P
Peace, Bill The mind serves properly as a window glass rather than as a reflector, that is, the mind should give an immediate view instead of an interpretation of the world. :-]
Now, you can't tell me SS are not going to get chain skip. i had a motorcycle with a very worn sprocket. no matter what i had the tension set to, it skipped. and would you belive Honda wanted to charge $23 for the damn thing? by the time i could afford it, the timing chain broke and bent a valve (scrap metal now, IIR). still got the new sprocket kicking around someplace, along with a new tach cable. -- ~Travis
"Kent" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
"Cameron" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
"Dave M Wyman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:u78Ha.212160$M01.95035@sccrnsc02...
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Help! I put a new chain on my bike, along with a new cassette. It's a SCRAM chain designed for bike with nine cogs, like mine, and is the same kind of chain I had on before.
The chain skips (well, it drops down a cog- the the third largest to the fourth - and then back up). It does this when I'm in the middle chainring and when I'm applying power up a steep hill.
It doesn't seem to skip in the big chainring or the smallest. Just the middle. I've tried three cassettes, now - the new one, one that never had much use, and my old one.
Any idea on what could be causing this? Could it be the middle chainring? Or is the chain a more likely culprit? (Rhetorical question: How much more money do I have to spend?!?)
Dave S. may also be correct, but it sounds like your rear cable tension
isn't
Quoted message said:
quite right. Try adding tension to the cable at the derailleur 1/8 turn
(at most)
Quoted message said:
at a time. Usually when the chain moves back and forth the cause is that
the
Quoted message said:
cable has too much slack, so it can't offset the springs in the
derailleur. Too
Quoted message said:
much tension and it will jump cogs.
Count your turns and remember them, just in case you need to reset the
tension.
Quoted message said:
Happy fiddling.
Another possibility is the alignment or the rear hanger to the wheel. Get to the LBS and have them screw a tool into the thread for the rear mech and then the hanger can be adjusted so it is parallel to the rear wheel, top bottom and directly rear. It is surprising just how many rear hangers are out. My LBS that is closing in 2 weeks used to check all new bikes and found many out, some quite bad. I have a Scott GZero Strike mine was ok. I had a nasty crash and my rear gear started this. I changed the cable and it was about 90% right then had the hanger aligned and so far OK. Worth a try and only takes 5 mins. One nasty incident I have had was the rear cassette coming loose, check the nut! Clean the thread and locktight it.
Kent
Whoa! Great point. I forgot about the time when my bike wouldn't stay in gear. Turned out that the bracket that holds the B-screw on the derailleur cracked, so the B-screw slipped off the hanger. XT, BTW. Keep an eye on that....
"Bill Wheeler" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
On Mon, 16 Jun 2003 00:24:58 GMT, Dave M Wyman <[email hidden]> wrote:
[snip [censored]]
Should have got an SS. :-P
Peace, Bill
Dang, I disappear for awhile and come back to see that you are just as anal as I remember. ;-)
The more thing change the more they stay the same......whatever the fvck that means.
Peace, Bill The mind serves properly as a window glass rather than as a reflector, that is, the mind should give an immediate view instead of an interpretation of the world. :-]
"Kent" <[email hidden]> schrieb im Newsbeitrag "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Another possibility is the alignment or the rear hanger to the wheel. Get
to
Quoted message said:
the LBS and have them screw a tool into the thread for the rear mech and then the hanger can be adjusted so it is parallel to the rear wheel, top bottom and directly rear. It is surprising just how many rear hangers are out. My LBS that is closing in 2 weeks used to check all new bikes and
found
Quoted message said:
many out, some quite bad. I have a Scott GZero Strike mine was ok. I had a nasty crash and my rear gear started this. I changed the cable and it was about 90% right then had the hanger aligned and so far OK. Worth a try and only takes 5 mins. One nasty incident I have had was the rear cassette coming loose, check
the
Quoted message said:
nut! Clean the thread and locktight it.
Both Cameron and Kent have good points. Actually from what kent mentions, it may be wise to invest in that tool for aligning the drlr. Then you don't need to go to the shop anymore when it goes out of alignment.
Thanks to all for the various suggestions - although none of them solved the problem!
My LBS mechanic did use the tool that can straighten a bent drlr hanger, as per one suggestion - I think I'd like to get that tool. When the mechanic finished, and I got the chain to skip again, we both realized all that was reasonably left to check was the middle chainring, and in fact that was the problem - it had worn out from one climb too many.
