You can test for a too-short chain by doing the following-
With the chain in the largest rear, middle (on a triple) front- must be able to shift from the
middle front to large without binding the rear derailleur.
With the chain in the second-largest rear and largest front- must be able to shift to the largest
rear without binding the derailleur.
*Both* tests have to pass; sometimes one will work and not the other. If that's the case, the
chain's too short. You don't want to assume you'll never shift that combo, because sometimes it's
hot, you're tired, and you just reach for that next gear, not realizing where you are, and BAM,
you've wrecked a derailleur, possibly your dropout as well, and could possibly even toss the whole
mess into the spokes. No fun.
--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles chainreactionbicycles.comchainreactionbicycles.comOpen ↗
"Me" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:Hi, can someone give me some advice for setting up a new shimano chain on
a
Quoted message said:buddy's mtb?
I've always used the medthod of putting the new chain up on the big front ring and the big rear
cog and then feeding through the deriallers and bringing the chain together as tight as I could
and from that point adding
a
Quoted message said:link so that gear combo was theorectally usable -though I never actually would shift into it.
OK heres the prob,
My buddys got a new deore 44 t front chainring and a 32 rear cog and an xt long mech.
But when I use the above method I get loads of extra chain when I'm in the small / small combo.
Enough chain slack that in that gear combo that the chain drags around the mech as there isn't any
tension.
So my quesstion is, which way is correct? Should I lock out the big to big combo by shortening the
chain or will there always be loads of slack in
the
Quoted message said:small / small combo?
Give me some advice please! Cheers,