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Chain, Gears & Wheel Lube

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Road Cycling
Published
17 June 2004
Last activity
20 June 2004
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Ian \
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  1. What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, derailleur,
    etc on a hybrid used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 in
    1 light machine oil), or a heavier grease?

    I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced
    bottle of "chain lube" at the bike shop.

    Thanks,

    Ian

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  2. ianstock'antispam'@sympatico.ca said:

    What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs,
    derailleur, etc on a hybrid used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3
    in 1 light machine oil), or a heavier grease?

    I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced
    bottle of "chain lube" at the bike shop.

    I like chainsaw oil or motor oil for drive train.
    Grease for hubs.

    --
    Benjamin Lewis

    Hey! I'm only fourteen, sickly 'n' thin Tried all of my life
    just to grow me a chin It popped out once, but my dad pushed
    it in. -- FZ

  3. "Ian (remove the antispam)" <ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote in
    message "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs,
    derailleur, etc on a


    hybrid

    Quoted message said:

    used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3
    in 1 light


    machine

    Quoted message said:

    oil), or a heavier grease?

    I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced
    bottle of "chain lube" at the bike shop.

    Thanks,

    Ian

    Of the choices you offered, I'd guess the 3 in 1 would be
    best. If you really want to go cheap, I've heard that used
    motor oil from a car makes an excellent chain lube. WD 40
    won't do and heavy grease will collect way too much dirt and
    probably won't work into the pins very well.

    Bob C.

  4. In article <[email hidden]>, "Ian \(remove
    the antispam \)" <ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> says...

    Quoted message said:

    What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs,
    derailleur, etc on a hybrid used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3
    in 1 light machine oil), or a heavier grease?

    I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced
    bottle of "chain lube" at the bike shop.

    I find that 10W30 motor works well, and doesn't hold dirt
    and grit as much as heavier and/or stickier lubes do. The
    3-in-1 oil might be ok as long as you kept up frequent
    applications. I wouldn't use WD-49 though; too many
    volatiles which quickly evaporate.

    --
    Remove the ns_ from if replying by e-mail (but keep posts in
    the newsgroups if possible).

  5. On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:07:49 -0400, "Ian \(remove the antispam\)"

    ianstock'antispam'@sympatico.ca said:

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3
    in 1 light machine oil), or a heavier grease?

    Usenet lube wars are very good for keeping your chain
    operating at peak efficiency.
    --
    Rick Onanian

  6. Quoted message said:

    Usenet lube wars are very good for keeping your chain
    operating at peak efficiency.

    Anyone using goose fat?

  7. "Ian (remove the antispam)" <ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote in
    message "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs,
    derailleur, etc on a


    hybrid

    Quoted message said:

    used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3
    in 1 light


    machine

    Quoted message said:

    oil), or a heavier grease?

    I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced
    bottle of "chain lube" at the bike shop.

    Chain saw chain lube

  8. On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:20:07 -0400, "psycholist" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:


    "Ian (remove the antispam)"
    <ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs,
    derailleur, etc on a


    hybrid

    Quoted message said:

    used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3
    in 1 light


    machine

    Quoted message said:

    oil), or a heavier grease?

    I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced
    bottle of "chain lube" at the bike shop.

    Thanks,

    Ian

    Of the choices you offered, I'd guess the 3 in 1 would be
    best. If you really want to go cheap, I've heard that used
    motor oil from a car makes an excellent chain lube. WD 40
    won't do and heavy grease will collect way too much dirt
    and probably won't work into the pins very well.

    Bob C.

    My understanding is that the real 'lube' for chain lube is
    suppoed to be a type of wax, and not a type of oil.

    I was told by a LBS owner:
    1. WD-40 is not good, and that the lube in this was
    'lanolin'. It collects dirt. (For MTB use the lube is
    almost entirely 'wax' and little else, and it is the
    most resistant to dirt-collection.
    2. The chain, to be properly lubed should be taken off the
    bike and thoroughly soaked in the 'lube' and then left
    to dry overnight. The transporting agent would evap.,
    leaving the waxy substance on the chain
    3. When you're lubing a chain you are not doing it for the
    outside, i.e. the chain in the sprockets. You're
    actually lubing the inner spindle and posts inside the
    chain that lets the individual chain segments move
    freely as they go around the circuit.

    Dunno if this is correct. FWIW. (this is the same guy who
    wants to charge my brother 30 bucks to true a wheel...!!)

    -Badger

  9. Ian (remove the antispam)' ianstock'antispam said:

    What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs,
    derailleur, etc on a


    hybrid

    Quoted message said:

    used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3
    in 1 light


    machine

    Quoted message said:

    oil), or a heavier grease?

    WD-40 too thin. You'd have to apply it every day, I think.

    3-in-1 too sticky thick for chains.

    Mind you, I defer to the actual experience (if any) of those
    who use these lubes.

    Triflow is a good choice, I think. If you want something
    lighter try a dry lube with teflon (and remember to reapply
    often and after wet). Dry lubes are thinner but don't
    attract as much dirt.

  10. tk said:
    Quoted message said:

    Usenet lube wars are very good for keeping your chain
    operating at peak efficiency.

    Anyone using goose fat?

    Canadians only.

    Bill "poor tip" S.

  11. On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 13:00:59 -0400, Badger_South <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Dunno if this is correct. FWIW. (this is the same guy who
    wants to charge my brother 30 bucks to true a wheel...!!)

    Seems reasonable. Maybe I'd start at $ 25 and add $ 5 if
    they told me they had already tried to true it and failed.
    Lord knows what you'd be dealing with.

    Curtis L. Russell Odenton, MD (USA) Just someone on
    two wheels...

  12. "Badger_South" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    psycholist said:


    "Ian (remove the antispam)"
    <ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs,
    derailleur, etc on a


    hybrid

    Quoted message said:

    used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier
    (3 in 1 light


    machine

    Quoted message said:

    oil), or a heavier grease?

    I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small
    overpriced bottle of


    "chain

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    lube" at the bike shop.

    Thanks,

    Ian

    Of the choices you offered, I'd guess the 3 in 1 would be
    best. If you really want to go cheap, I've heard that
    used motor oil from a car makes


    an

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    excellent chain lube. WD 40 won't do and heavy grease
    will collect way


    too

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    much dirt and probably won't work into the pins
    very well.

    Bob C.

    My understanding is that the real 'lube' for chain lube is
    suppoed to be a type of wax, and not a type of oil.

    I was told by a LBS owner:
    1. WD-40 is not good, and that the lube in this was
    'lanolin'. It collects dirt. (For MTB use the lube is
    almost entirely 'wax' and little else, and it is the
    most resistant to dirt-collection.
    2. The chain, to be properly lubed should be taken off
    the bike and thoroughly soaked in the 'lube' and then
    left to dry overnight. The transporting agent would
    evap., leaving the waxy substance on the chain
    3. When you're lubing a chain you are not doing it for
    the outside, i.e. the chain in the sprockets. You're
    actually lubing the inner spindle and posts inside
    the chain that lets the individual chain segments
    move freely as they go around the circuit.

    Dunno if this is correct. FWIW. (this is the same guy who
    wants to charge my brother 30 bucks to true a wheel...!!)

    -Badger

    I've heard of people who do that sort of thing. Sounds
    pretty anal to me. I wonder if there's any research that
    suggest how many more miles (if any) you get if you go
    through all that nonsense. On my road bike, I clean my chain
    thoroughly (on the bike with a chain cleaning device and
    degreaser, followed by soap and water) about every 300
    miles. Then I re-lube with Pedros extra dry (I rarely have
    to ride in damp conditions). Between cleanings, I'll spray
    with an LPD-9 spray lube and wipe down really well about
    every third ride. This seems to work fine.

    Bob C.

  13. tk said:
    Quoted message said:

    Usenet lube wars are very good for keeping your chain
    operating at peak efficiency.

    Anyone using goose fat?

    Ask Wolfgang Puck.

    Matt O.

  14. On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 14:40:18 -0400, "psycholist" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    I've heard of people who do that sort of thing. Sounds
    pretty anal to me. I wonder if there's any research that
    suggest how many more miles (if any) you get if you go
    through all that nonsense.

    Since most people would be discouraged from ever doing it in
    the first place, not many more. Even if you did do it, I
    wonder if the replacement would come at about the same time
    from other factors other than simple lubrication issues.

    Curtis L. Russell Odenton, MD (USA) Just someone on
    two wheels...

  15. On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:07:49 -0400, "Ian \(remove the antispam\)"

    ianstock'antispam'@sympatico.ca said:

    What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs,
    derailleur, etc on a hybrid used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3
    in 1 light machine oil), or a heavier grease?

    I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced
    bottle of "chain lube" at the bike shop.

    I've just now reviewed the fourteen responses to this post
    that have thus far arrived on my ISP's mail server and
    couldn't find a valid answer. Not only that, some provided
    misinformation.

    First of all, WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. Don't use it for
    this purpose.

    Hubs require grease. You can use the boutique bike greases
    available at your LBS, or go to an auto parts store (or even
    a K-Mart or equivalent) and buy some axle grease. For the
    price of a tube of one of the boutique greases you can buy a
    small tub of the automotive equivalent.

    Derailleurs should be lubricated with a light oil. I
    lubricate the jockey wheel bushings with motor oil, and the
    pivot pins with Tri-Flow, but that's just me. You could also
    use motor oil or probably 3-in-1 for the pivot pins.

    Chain lubrication is a religious issue. The prime directive
    of chain maintenance is: Never Lubricate a Dirty Chain.
    There are lots of ways to clean a chain, some of which even
    work. There are even more chain lubes. Longevity is more
    related to cleanliness than choice of lubricant. I still hot
    wax the chains on my "good bikes", and use White Lightning
    on my touring and mountain bikes. Motor oil, chain saw oil,
    hypoid gear oil, etc.; all seem to work also. Your choice.

    jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net
    home.earthlink.net~jeverett3

  16. John Everett said:

    The prime directive of chain maintenance is: Never
    Lubricate a Dirty Chain.

    Actually, a semi-clinical study done by one rec.bicycles
    person has produced results slightly in favor of _not_
    cleaning the chain, certainly well enough to cast doubt on
    the idea that one should Never Lubricate a Dirty Chain.
    --
    Rick Onanian

  17. WD-40 is really not a lubricant--it is a solvent/penetrant.

    This is a really effective way to protect and lubricate a
    chain, though it is a lot of work. Take the chain off the
    bike, and soak it in a light solvent. Then, melt some
    parafine, and mix in some graphite. Soak the chain in this
    melted mix. The heat will drive the solvent out of the
    insides of the link/pins. Then, whirl the chain around your
    head on the end of a strong cord, to remove most of the wax
    from the outside. After it cools, you have wax and graphite
    on all the surfaces, including the inside. This protects
    against wear, and is not sticky or wet, so it does not
    collect grime.

    I have used this on off-road motorcycle chains, as well as
    mountain bikes.

  18. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Rick Onanian said:
    John Everett said:

    The prime directive of chain maintenance is: Never
    Lubricate a Dirty Chain.

    Actually, a semi-clinical study done by one rec.bicycles
    person has produced results slightly in favor of _not_
    cleaning the chain, certainly well enough to cast doubt on
    the idea that one should Never Lubricate a Dirty Chain.

    I don't think so much in terms of cleaning a chain, as
    /drying/ it. Cleaning a chain is largely prep'ing for drying
    it. Subsequent lubrication of the chain facilitates the next
    cleaning/drying operation, and helps prevent rust.

    Never lubricate a /wet/ chain (including wet by previous
    lubrication).

    If there's a lot of crud sticking to a chain, it's because
    the chain is wet. Dry dust mostly just flings off. So in
    more arid climes, chain cleaning just isn't so often
    necessary. And that white, waxy stuff like White Lightning
    is certainly good enough.

    Making a wet chain wetter (no matter what it's wetted with)
    just makes it attract more crud, and more crud attracts more
    moisture. It's a downward spiral.

    The wetness provides a vehicle for gritty particles to
    work their ways into pin/roller/sideplate interfaces, as
    well as getting all over your rear der, cogset and
    chainrings. Rear derailers don't shift very well when
    their moving parts are clogged with muck & goop inflicted
    upon them by dirty chains.

    I guess it's mostly particles with a Moh's hardness rating
    higher than the chain's, that would cause wear. That would
    include powdery silicates. I don't care too much about
    preserving my chain because it's just a cheap-o, $10 KMG knock-
    off of a PC-48 anyway. But I do want to keep my dependable,
    old Exage rear der going for awhile. That's what I /really/
    keep clean & lubed. Maintaining the chain is just a by-
    product and side-issue of that endeavour. But if you're
    gonna maintain one, might as well maintain both.

    If the crud is really thick, sooner or later you'll bring
    your bike into your girlfriend's apartment, and it'll drop
    off your chain onto her carpet like brownie batter off a
    wooden spoon (at least that's how she'll see it), and she'll
    moidalize ya. So, there's an incentive for bicycle hygiene.
    Of course if a chain is that cruddy, the undersides of the
    fenders will really be laden with all kinds of [censored]. When
    that stuff dries out and falls on the floor, one is really
    in deep doo-doo, because it makes a visibly bigger mess,
    even though it's easier to sweep up than chain crud.

    Anyhow, whether or not you opt to commit to the drudgery of
    chain cleaning, I heartily recommend not bringing your bike
    at all into your S.O.'s abode on rainy days.

    cheers, Tom

    --
    -- Powered by FreeBSD Above address is just a spam midden.
    I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

  19. "Tom Keats" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    If the crud is really thick, sooner or later you'll bring
    your bike into your girlfriend's apartment, and it'll drop
    off your chain onto her carpet like brownie batter off a
    wooden spoon (at least that's how she'll see it), and
    she'll moidalize ya.

    This sounds like the Voice of Experience.

    Anyway, I learned from the Sheldon Brown website that the
    technical term for what you called "crud" is "schmutz".

    --
    Warm Regards,

    Claire Petersky Please replace earthlink for mouse-potato
    and .net for .com Home of the meditative cyclist:
    home.earthlink.netWelcome.htm See the
    books I've set free at:
    bookcrossing.comCpetersky

  20. "Ian \(remove the antispam\)" <ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs,
    derailleur, etc on a hybrid used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3
    in 1 light machine oil), or a heavier grease?

    I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced
    bottle of "chain lube" at the bike shop.

    From someone who once used chain saw motor oil for lube,
    don't use that! It collected dirt and grime like there was
    no tomorrow.

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