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Chain, Gears & Wheel Lube

Started by Ian \(remove the antispam\) · · Last activity · 38 posts · 970 views

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Road Cycling
Published
17 June 2004
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20 June 2004
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Ian \(remove the antispam\)
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  1. What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, derailleur, etc on a hybrid
    used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 in 1 light machine
    oil), or a heavier grease?

    I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced bottle of "chain
    lube" at the bike shop.

    Thanks,

    Ian

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  2. ianstock'antispam'@sympatico.ca said:

    What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, derailleur, etc on a
    hybrid used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 in 1 light
    machine oil), or a heavier grease?

    I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced bottle of "chain
    lube" at the bike shop.

    I like chainsaw oil or motor oil for drive train. Grease for hubs.

    --
    Benjamin Lewis

    Hey! I'm only fourteen, sickly 'n' thin
    Tried all of my life just to grow me a chin
    It popped out once, but my dad pushed it in. -- FZ

  3. "Ian (remove the antispam)" <ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote in
    message news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, derailleur, etc on a


    hybrid

    Quoted message said:

    used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 in 1 light


    machine

    Quoted message said:

    oil), or a heavier grease?

    I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced bottle of "chain
    lube" at the bike shop.

    Thanks,

    Ian

    Of the choices you offered, I'd guess the 3 in 1 would be best. If you
    really want to go cheap, I've heard that used motor oil from a car makes an
    excellent chain lube. WD 40 won't do and heavy grease will collect way too
    much dirt and probably won't work into the pins very well.

    Bob C.

  4. In article <[email hidden]>, "Ian \(remove the antispam
    \)" <ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> says...

    Quoted message said:

    What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, derailleur, etc on a hybrid
    used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 in 1 light machine
    oil), or a heavier grease?

    I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced bottle of "chain
    lube" at the bike shop.

    I find that 10W30 motor works well, and doesn't hold dirt and grit as
    much as heavier and/or stickier lubes do. The 3-in-1 oil might be ok as
    long as you kept up frequent applications. I wouldn't use WD-49 though;
    too many volatiles which quickly evaporate.

    --
    Remove the ns_ from if replying by e-mail (but keep posts in the
    newsgroups if possible).

  5. On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:07:49 -0400, "Ian \(remove the antispam\)"

    ianstock'antispam'@sympatico.ca said:

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 in 1 light machine
    oil), or a heavier grease?

    Usenet lube wars are very good for keeping your chain operating at
    peak efficiency.
    --
    Rick Onanian


  6. Quoted message said:

    Usenet lube wars are very good for keeping your chain operating at
    peak efficiency.

    Anyone using goose fat?

  7. On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:20:07 -0400, "psycholist" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:


    "Ian (remove the antispam)" <ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote in
    message news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, derailleur, etc on a


    hybrid

    Quoted message said:

    used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 in 1 light


    machine

    Quoted message said:

    oil), or a heavier grease?

    I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced bottle of "chain
    lube" at the bike shop.

    Thanks,

    Ian

    Of the choices you offered, I'd guess the 3 in 1 would be best. If you
    really want to go cheap, I've heard that used motor oil from a car makes an
    excellent chain lube. WD 40 won't do and heavy grease will collect way too
    much dirt and probably won't work into the pins very well.

    Bob C.

    My understanding is that the real 'lube' for chain lube is suppoed to be a
    type of wax, and not a type of oil.

    I was told by a LBS owner:
    1. WD-40 is not good, and that the lube in this was 'lanolin'. It
    collects dirt. (For MTB use the lube is almost entirely 'wax' and little
    else, and it is the most resistant to dirt-collection.
    2. The chain, to be properly lubed should be taken off the bike and
    thoroughly soaked in the 'lube' and then left to dry overnight. The
    transporting agent would evap., leaving the waxy substance on the chain
    3. When you're lubing a chain you are not doing it for the outside, i.e.
    the chain in the sprockets. You're actually lubing the inner spindle and
    posts inside the chain that lets the individual chain segments move freely
    as they go around the circuit.

    Dunno if this is correct. FWIW. (this is the same guy who wants to charge
    my brother 30 bucks to true a wheel...!!)

    -Badger

  8. "Ian (remove the antispam)" <ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote in
    message news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, derailleur, etc on a


    hybrid

    Quoted message said:

    used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 in 1 light


    machine

    Quoted message said:

    oil), or a heavier grease?

    I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced bottle of "chain
    lube" at the bike shop.

    Chain saw chain lube

  9. tk said:
    Quoted message said:

    Usenet lube wars are very good for keeping your chain operating at
    peak efficiency.

    Anyone using goose fat?

    Canadians only.

    Bill "poor tip" S.

  10. Ian (remove the antispam)' ianstock'antispam said:

    What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, derailleur, etc on a


    hybrid

    Quoted message said:

    used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 in 1 light


    machine

    Quoted message said:

    oil), or a heavier grease?

    WD-40 too thin. You'd have to apply it every day, I think.

    3-in-1 too sticky thick for chains.

    Mind you, I defer to the actual experience (if any) of those who use these
    lubes.

    Triflow is a good choice, I think. If you want something lighter try a dry
    lube with teflon (and remember to reapply often and after wet). Dry lubes
    are thinner but don't attract as much dirt.

  11. Ian (remove the antispam) said:

    I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced bottle of "chain
    lube" at the bike shop.

    Don't avoid it, they're a bargain in the sense that they save you a lot of
    hassle.

    Don't use spray lube, it's too messy.

    Do use a "dry lube" like Triflow or similar bike specific which is
    basically teflon and other particles in a petrochem suspension. Get the
    kind in the sqeeze bottle. Put a drop on each link, turn the pedals a few
    times to distribute, wait a few minutes for the carrier agent to
    dissipate, then rub the outside of the chain until your rag does not turn
    black, the lube is inside the chain where you want it. A dry clean chain
    will stay clean for quite a while and not attract dirt.

    On my M/C chain I use gear oil btw, it's cheap and does the trick.

    To clean a chain and cassette quickly I make a 50% Simple Green* solution
    and spray on my parts while on the bike, I scrub the chain and cassette
    with a dish brush adding more simple green when needed. Then I hose the
    whole thing off and let sun/air dry before lubing--takes no more than five
    minutes.

    *Simple Green is the name brand of a non-toxic concentrated cleanser and
    de-greaser. I use it for everything around the house. 20:1 for general
    cleaning 80:1 for windows, and 2:1 or straight on greasy bits and pieces.

    😄

  12. On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 13:00:59 -0400, Badger_South <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Dunno if this is correct. FWIW. (this is the same guy who wants to charge
    my brother 30 bucks to true a wheel...!!)

    Seems reasonable. Maybe I'd start at $ 25 and add $ 5 if they told me
    they had already tried to true it and failed. Lord knows what you'd be
    dealing with.

    Curtis L. Russell
    Odenton, MD (USA)
    Just someone on two wheels...

  13. "Badger_South" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:20:07 -0400, "psycholist" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:


    "Ian (remove the antispam)" <ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote in
    message news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, derailleur, etc on a


    hybrid

    Quoted message said:

    used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 in 1 light


    machine

    Quoted message said:

    oil), or a heavier grease?

    I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced bottle of


    "chain

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    lube" at the bike shop.

    Thanks,

    Ian

    Of the choices you offered, I'd guess the 3 in 1 would be best. If you
    really want to go cheap, I've heard that used motor oil from a car makes


    an

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    excellent chain lube. WD 40 won't do and heavy grease will collect way


    too

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    much dirt and probably won't work into the pins very well.

    Bob C.

    My understanding is that the real 'lube' for chain lube is suppoed to be a
    type of wax, and not a type of oil.

    I was told by a LBS owner:
    1. WD-40 is not good, and that the lube in this was 'lanolin'. It
    collects dirt. (For MTB use the lube is almost entirely 'wax' and little
    else, and it is the most resistant to dirt-collection.
    2. The chain, to be properly lubed should be taken off the bike and
    thoroughly soaked in the 'lube' and then left to dry overnight. The
    transporting agent would evap., leaving the waxy substance on the chain
    3. When you're lubing a chain you are not doing it for the outside, i.e.
    the chain in the sprockets. You're actually lubing the inner spindle and
    posts inside the chain that lets the individual chain segments move freely
    as they go around the circuit.

    Dunno if this is correct. FWIW. (this is the same guy who wants to charge
    my brother 30 bucks to true a wheel...!!)

    -Badger

    I've heard of people who do that sort of thing. Sounds pretty anal to me.
    I wonder if there's any research that suggest how many more miles (if any)
    you get if you go through all that nonsense. On my road bike, I clean my
    chain thoroughly (on the bike with a chain cleaning device and degreaser,
    followed by soap and water) about every 300 miles. Then I re-lube with
    Pedros extra dry (I rarely have to ride in damp conditions). Between
    cleanings, I'll spray with an LPD-9 spray lube and wipe down really well
    about every third ride. This seems to work fine.

    Bob C.

  14. tk said:
    Quoted message said:

    Usenet lube wars are very good for keeping your chain operating at
    peak efficiency.

    Anyone using goose fat?

    Ask Wolfgang Puck.

    Matt O.

  15. On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 14:40:18 -0400, "psycholist" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    I've heard of people who do that sort of thing. Sounds pretty anal to me.
    I wonder if there's any research that suggest how many more miles (if any)
    you get if you go through all that nonsense.

    Since most people would be discouraged from ever doing it in the first
    place, not many more. Even if you did do it, I wonder if the
    replacement would come at about the same time from other factors other
    than simple lubrication issues.

    Curtis L. Russell
    Odenton, MD (USA)
    Just someone on two wheels...

  16. On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:07:49 -0400, "Ian \(remove the antispam\)"

    ianstock'antispam'@sympatico.ca said:

    What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, derailleur, etc on a hybrid
    used mostly for road touring?

    A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 in 1 light machine
    oil), or a heavier grease?

    I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced bottle of "chain
    lube" at the bike shop.

    I've just now reviewed the fourteen responses to this post that have
    thus far arrived on my ISP's mail server and couldn't find a valid
    answer. Not only that, some provided misinformation.

    First of all, WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. Don't use it for this purpose.

    Hubs require grease. You can use the boutique bike greases available
    at your LBS, or go to an auto parts store (or even a K-Mart or
    equivalent) and buy some axle grease. For the price of a tube of one
    of the boutique greases you can buy a small tub of the automotive
    equivalent.

    Derailleurs should be lubricated with a light oil. I lubricate the
    jockey wheel bushings with motor oil, and the pivot pins with
    Tri-Flow, but that's just me. You could also use motor oil or
    probably 3-in-1 for the pivot pins.

    Chain lubrication is a religious issue. The prime directive of chain
    maintenance is: Never Lubricate a Dirty Chain. There are lots of ways
    to clean a chain, some of which even work. There are even more chain
    lubes. Longevity is more related to cleanliness than choice of
    lubricant. I still hot wax the chains on my "good bikes", and use
    White Lightning on my touring and mountain bikes. Motor oil, chain saw
    oil, hypoid gear oil, etc.; all seem to work also. Your choice.

    jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3

  17. John Everett said:

    The prime directive of chain
    maintenance is: Never Lubricate a Dirty Chain.

    Actually, a semi-clinical study done by one rec.bicycles person has
    produced results slightly in favor of _not_ cleaning the chain,
    certainly well enough to cast doubt on the idea that one should
    Never Lubricate a Dirty Chain.
    --
    Rick Onanian

  18. WD-40 is really not a lubricant--it is a solvent/penetrant.

    This is a really effective way to protect and lubricate a chain, though it
    is a lot of work. Take the chain off the bike, and soak it in a light
    solvent. Then, melt some parafine, and mix in some graphite. Soak the
    chain in this melted mix. The heat will drive the solvent out of the
    insides of the link/pins. Then, whirl the chain around your head on the end
    of a strong cord, to remove most of the wax from the outside. After it
    cools, you have wax and graphite on all the surfaces, including the inside.
    This protects against wear, and is not sticky or wet, so it does not collect
    grime.

    I have used this on off-road motorcycle chains, as well as mountain bikes.

  19. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Rick Onanian said:
    John Everett said:

    The prime directive of chain
    maintenance is: Never Lubricate a Dirty Chain.

    Actually, a semi-clinical study done by one rec.bicycles person has
    produced results slightly in favor of _not_ cleaning the chain,
    certainly well enough to cast doubt on the idea that one should
    Never Lubricate a Dirty Chain.

    I don't think so much in terms of cleaning a chain,
    as /drying/ it. Cleaning a chain is largely prep'ing
    for drying it. Subsequent lubrication of the chain
    facilitates the next cleaning/drying operation, and helps
    prevent rust.

    Never lubricate a /wet/ chain (including wet by
    previous lubrication).

    If there's a lot of crud sticking to a chain, it's
    because the chain is wet. Dry dust mostly just
    flings off. So in more arid climes, chain cleaning
    just isn't so often necessary. And that white, waxy
    stuff like White Lightning is certainly good enough.

    Making a wet chain wetter (no matter what it's wetted
    with) just makes it attract more crud, and more crud
    attracts more moisture. It's a downward spiral.

    The wetness provides a vehicle for gritty particles to
    work their ways into pin/roller/sideplate interfaces,
    as well as getting all over your rear der, cogset and
    chainrings. Rear derailers don't shift very well when
    their moving parts are clogged with muck & goop inflicted
    upon them by dirty chains.

    I guess it's mostly particles with a Moh's hardness rating
    higher than the chain's, that would cause wear. That would
    include powdery silicates. I don't care too much about
    preserving my chain because it's just a cheap-o, $10 KMG
    knock-off of a PC-48 anyway. But I do want to keep my
    dependable, old Exage rear der going for awhile. That's
    what I /really/ keep clean & lubed. Maintaining the chain
    is just a by-product and side-issue of that endeavour. But
    if you're gonna maintain one, might as well maintain both.

    If the crud is really thick, sooner or later you'll bring
    your bike into your girlfriend's apartment, and it'll drop
    off your chain onto her carpet like brownie batter off a
    wooden spoon (at least that's how she'll see it), and she'll
    moidalize ya. So, there's an incentive for bicycle hygiene.
    Of course if a chain is that cruddy, the undersides of the
    fenders will really be laden with all kinds of [censored]. When that
    stuff dries out and falls on the floor, one is really in deep
    doo-doo, because it makes a visibly bigger mess, even though
    it's easier to sweep up than chain crud.

    Anyhow, whether or not you opt to commit to the drudgery of
    chain cleaning, I heartily recommend not bringing your bike
    at all into your S.O.'s abode on rainy days.

    cheers,
    Tom

    --
    -- Powered by FreeBSD
    Above address is just a spam midden.
    I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

  20. "Tom Keats" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    If the crud is really thick, sooner or later you'll bring
    your bike into your girlfriend's apartment, and it'll drop
    off your chain onto her carpet like brownie batter off a
    wooden spoon (at least that's how she'll see it), and she'll
    moidalize ya.

    This sounds like the Voice of Experience.

    Anyway, I learned from the Sheldon Brown website that the technical term for
    what you called "crud" is "schmutz".

    --
    Warm Regards,

    Claire Petersky
    Please replace earthlink for mouse-potato and .net for .com
    Home of the meditative cyclist:
    http://home.earthlink.net/~cpetersky/Welcome.htm
    See the books I've set free at: http://bookcrossing.com/referral/Cpetersky

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