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Centerpull brakes

Started by Gary Young · · Last activity · 75 posts · 5,537 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
16 October 2003
Last activity
20 November 2003
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Gary Young
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  1. In article said:
    Helmut Springer said:

    Actually my SunTour GPX sidepulls have one central spiral spring that doesn't slide. Stays
    centered pretty well. Out of production for quite some time, OK.

    They all have one spring. The problem is that he spring has a "ram's horn" coil on either side of
    the pivot bolt that constitute the center of rotation of the spring ends. If your brake does not
    have such a spring, I would be interested to know what shape the spring is.

    I believe the SunTour GPX is designed the same as the Superbe Pro caliper of the same era.
    The return spring is an internal coil spring, contained at the pivot of the caliper. It's
    actually two separate coil springs, one for each arm, that engage an washer that's indexed
    to the pivot bolt.

    There's an exploded picture of the Superbe Pro caliper at:

    totalbike.comschematics.cgi

    -Luns

  2. Luns Tee said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Actually my SunTour GPX sidepulls have one central spiral spring that doesn't slide. Stays
    centered pretty well. Out of production for quite some time, OK.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    They all have one spring. The problem is that he spring has a "ram's horn" coil on either side of
    the pivot bolt that constitute the center of rotation of the spring ends. If your brake does not
    have such a spring, I would be interested to know what shape the spring is.

    Quoted message said:

    I believe the SunTour GPX is designed the same as the Superbe Pro caliper of the same era. The
    return spring is an internal coil spring, contained at the pivot of the caliper. It's actually two
    separate coil springs, one for each arm, that engage an washer that's indexed to the pivot bolt.

    Quoted message said:

    There's an exploded picture of the Superbe Pro caliper at:

    tinyurl.comrorv

    I see. This caliper is largely immune to return spring friction, using a "torsion spring" concentric
    to the pivot shaft. The trouble is there are two springs, both fighting for their share of the
    return so that the retracted position lies in the dip between two intersecting spring
    characteristics. That's better than sliding end springs but putting them in reliefs in the middle of
    the arm presents a strength problem.

    It isn't easy.

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

  3. Chalo Colina said:
    Quoted message said:

    ...sidepull brakes have the pad pivot above and only slightly (rim half width) offset from the
    braking surface so that there is essentially no position change as the pad sweeps through its
    wear life (cosine error). Centerpull and cantilever brakes approach the rim at nearly a 45 degree
    angle and have large vertical change throughout pad wear life,

    Quoted message said:

    This trait of stud-mounted brakes can be accommodated by adjusting the pad height as it wears. The
    pad rub on tire sidewalls exhibited by single-pivot sidepulls, however, is due to the extreme
    fore-to-aft flex these brakes display and can not reliably be adjusted away.

    You keep talking about cheap no use brake calipers. We've been riding on Campagnolo and Shimano
    brakes for a long time and those who insist on using flimsy brands out to switch and atop talking
    about ho bad these brakes were. Just the same, you seem to recognize that pad wear can cause
    cantilever brakes to pop under the rim in dirt and wet conditions. It happens and it should be
    apparent that the arc described by the pad attacks the rim at a 45 degree angle (large cosine error)
    while a single pivot sidepull brake has a 5 degree angle, one that allows me to wear a Kool-Stop
    Continental pad to the metal without adjustment.

    Quoted message said:

    This horrible characteristic of single-pivot sidepull brakes is IMO one of the reasons for the
    annoying move to "short reach" road calipers-- because the stubby arms of those brakes are
    somewhat resistant to allowing sidewall rub for most average-sized riders.

    long (standard) reach Campagnolo Record brakes from the 1960's do not flex enough to distort the
    wear pattern on the rim. They hold their position even when braking hard enough to raise the
    rear wheel.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    the centerpull goes into the tire as it wears and offers no advantages whatsoever.

    Quoted message said:

    When mounted on frame studs, it offers vastly superior maximum stopping power to any caliper
    brake. I know this because I have bent many forks under the braking forces generated by U-brakes.
    Before applying stopping power like that, caliper brakes become so twisted out of shape that
    applying more cable tension does not result in more braking.

    So? Who uses centerpull brakes... and why? They are dogs!

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Flex in any part of the system eats up hand lever stroke.

    Quoted message said:

    Insufficient stroke length can be addressed by using levers that pull more cable, and pulling them
    harder. However, the swinging flex endemic to all centerbolt-mounted brakes, and the torsional
    flex that is particularly pronounced in single-pivot brakes, act disproportionately to diminish
    the braking that can be applied regardless of how hard or how far the cable is pulled.

    Quoted message said:

    The "ceiling" on stopping force resulting from flex-related distortion of the brake mechanism is
    lower, and more abrupt, with single-pivot calipers than with any other type of brake.

    Not on high quality calipers. You haul out discarded brake brands and types that have had no
    business on bicycles in the last ten years.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    He notes that centerpulls don't stick out to the side like sidepulls.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    How far??? What is the issue here anyway.

    Quoted message said:

    I have seen enough bikes damaged by the sidepull brake arm bashing into the downtube to think of
    that design characteristic as a liability.

    I've seen bicycle damaged by letting them fall over onto a curb. So what if there are oafs around
    who can damage a bicycle. As I recall in a crash, both center and side pull brakes have gotten
    dinged by or dinged the down tube.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    He says that even the standard-reach (what would be called long-reach by most) dual-pivot brakes
    offered by Shimano don't leave much room for fenders. Is that true?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    NO.

    Quoted message said:

    It is true if you wish to run decent-sized tires and fenders at the same time. Even the most
    careful brake placement will not allow "standard reach" dual-pivot calipers to encompass 38mm
    tires with fenders.

    Long ago, split fenders were mad to not compromise the brake for fenders. The front half begins
    ahead of the fork, the rear behind. I don't see this if it is racing bicycles we are talking about.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    The sidepull brake is the obvious mechanism for road bicycles to all who understand mechanical
    design. All this other stuff is amateur thinking guided by misunderstanding of the concept.

    Quoted message said:

    Sorry, but that's just not true. It might be "the obvious mechanism" if one is unconcerned about
    generating the most stopping force from a given amount of brake, and if one disregards the
    benefits of voluminous tires, and if one happily tolerates pad rub due to a brake design that can
    not be centered accurately. But most "who understand mechanical design" demand (or at least
    desire) better performance than that!

    How much do you need? I often think of that as I overtake riders descending steep roads. Riders who
    are using all sorts of demonstrative cornering techniques as they pour on the brakes early into
    turns. I suppose for these folks more brake force is necessary.

    Quoted message said:

    Getting the brake pivot as close as practicable to the pads pays huge dividends in turning lever
    force into stopping force.

    I'm sure you meant that differently than it came out. The shorter the brake arms the greater the
    angular sweep in its stroke and the greater the cosine error involved in pad wear gets. The amount
    of flex in the levers is the measure of performance at any given mechanical advantage. Of course
    we've been at mechanical advantage before. It can be only so large that hand lever travel is not
    used up by the time the pads make contact, that is pad clearance dictates mechanical advantage
    upper limits.

    Quoted message said:

    That very translation is exactly where single-pivot calipers are so weak. They only provide an
    approximately linear relationship between lever force and braking force up to a point-- a point
    easily exceeded by many riders in many circumstances.

    Not so. Many riders have such weak hands that they could not adequately brake with 4:1 brakes that
    were standard before dual pivot calipers came along. You may recall the old saw of "Campagnolo
    Brakes are for racing and racers only need to modulate speed, not stop!" I heard it often enough to
    gag. It's tough when you can't tell the customer he is a wimp and should develop more grip. So
    there we have
    it. Dual pivot! The brake that absolutely centers and can operate with minimal pad clearance. Up
    the ME! By the way, the ME is so high that you cannot wear the pads to the metal, there being
    insufficient adjustment at that level.

    Quoted message said:

    Add to this the inherent characteristic of them being impossible to center consistently, and it's
    not at all obvious that they are superior to the worst of other brake designs, let alone the best
    of them.

    That is true, but how accurately do you need it. I've been using them for many years and add a bit
    of oil when they go off center in the rain.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Now let's hear it again concisely. What are the advantages?

    Quoted message said:

    Concisely? Stopping. Centering.

    Well that is what single pivot Campagnolo brakes do for me.

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

  4. This was surprise to me all that metal in the shoe when I wore the Kool Stop Contiental pad down. I
    first thought something was wrong with the calipers when I was actually braking metal to metal. I
    also have the Campagnolo long reach single pull brakes. Is it necessary for Kool Stop to use all
    the metal and less pad. Seems like their other design brake shoes don't have that much metal in
    them. -tom

    <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
    while a single pivot sidepull brake has a 5 degree

    Quoted message said:

    angle, one that allows me to wear a Kool-Stop Continental pad to the metal without adjustment.

  5. Tom Nakashima said:

    This was surprise to me all that metal in the shoe when I wore the Kool Stop Contiental pad down.
    I first thought something was wrong with the calipers when I was actually braking metal to metal.
    I also have the Campagnolo long reach single pull brakes. Is it necessary for Kool Stop to use
    all the metal and less pad. Seems like their other design brake shoes don't have that much metal
    in them.

    Try the Scott/Mathauser version- just a big chunk o' brake pad in an old-style holder. Mine last for
    ages and ages. Road and canti:

    rivendellbicycles.com15093.html
    rivendellbicycles.com15095.html

    Sheldon might have these too, IIRC.

  6. Tom Nakashima said:
    Quoted message said:

    A single pivot sidepull brake has a 5 degree angle, one that allows me to wear a Kool-Stop
    Continental pad to the metal without adjustment.

    Quoted message said:

    This was surprise to me all that metal in the shoe when I wore the Kool Stop Continental pad
    down. I first thought something was wrong with the calipers when I was actually braking metal to
    metal. I also have the Campagnolo long reach single pull brakes. Is it necessary for Kool Stop to
    use all the metal and less pad. Seems like their other design brake shoes don't have that much
    metal in them.

    That's a lot of brake pad to wear down. The wear limit should be obvious because that is where the
    usable pad blends into the backing that is 50% wider than the pad. See picture at:

    koolstop.combrakes

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

  7. Tim McNamara said:
    Quoted message said:

    This was surprise to me all that metal in the shoe when I wore the Kool Stop Continental pad
    down. I first thought something was wrong with the calipers when I was actually braking metal to
    metal. I also have the Campagnolo long reach single pull brakes. Is it necessary for Kool Stop to
    use all the metal and less pad. Seems like their other design brake shoes don't have that much
    metal in them.

    Quoted message said:

    Try the Scott/Matthauser version- just a big chunk o' brake pad in an old-style holder. Mine last
    for ages and ages. Road and cantilever:

    Quoted message said:

    rivendellbicycles.com15093.html
    rivendellbicycles.com15095.html

    That pad has no greater wear depth than the Continental. Besides, the Continental cannot slip out or
    be dislodged by a tire change, the reason for those triangular guides on brake pad insert holders.
    The continental may not appeal to the equipment purists but it is a better choice.

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

  8. Dale Stanbrough said:
    Quoted message said:

    So? Who uses centerpull brakes... and why? They are dogs!

    I have a bike with 700C tyres, drop handle bars and ceterpull brakes (it was converted from a
    mountain bike). I've never been able to find brakes that could replace them. Are there any other
    brakes suitable for this set up?

    Dale


    To define terms ( a popular motif here today!) are your brakes mounted on studs attached to the
    frame and to the fork? Or do they attach with a single center bolt through the brake's bridge? If
    the latter, what size are they? [short=610, long=750 for Weinmanns, other brands vary]

    There are _always_ alternates.

    --
    Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  9. In article said:
    Dale Stanbrough said:
    Quoted message said:

    So? Who uses centerpull brakes... and why? They are dogs!

    I have a bike with 700C tyres, drop handle bars and ceterpull brakes (it was converted from a
    mountain bike). I've never been able to find brakes that could replace them. Are there any other
    brakes suitable for this set up?

    Dale


    To define terms ( a popular motif here today!) are your brakes mounted on studs attached to the
    frame and to the fork? Or do they attach with a single center bolt through the brake's bridge? If
    the latter, what size are they? [short=610, long=750 for Weinmanns, other brands vary]

    The brake arms are attached to studs brazed? onto the front of the forks. The pads sit 1/2 way along
    the length of the brake arm, and the top is connected traingularly to the center pull mechanism.

    -----
    | ^ |
    | / \|
    / \ <- center pull cables. /| |\ \\| | |// \\*|*// <- brake arms and pads
    | | |
    | | | <- forks
    | | |
    +-+-+
    |
    |
    |
    |
    | <- wheel

    (whew!)

    Most bike shop staff say you can't combine brakes which act off pivots on the forks with drop handle
    bars and large profile rims/tyres.

    Dale

    --
    [email hidden]

  10. Dale Stanbrough said:

    In article <[email hidden]>, A Muzi <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    To define terms ( a popular motif here today!) are your brakes mounted on studs attached to the
    frame and to the fork? Or do they attach with a single center bolt through the brake's bridge?
    If the latter, what size are they? [short=610, long=750 for Weinmanns, other brands vary]

    The brake arms are attached to studs brazed? onto the front of the forks. The pads sit 1/2 way
    along the length of the brake arm, and the top is connected traingularly to the center pull
    mechanism.

    <ASCII art snipped>

    Sounds like cantilever brakes. Snoop around the brakes section at www.sheldonbrown.com and you'll
    see photos and examples of each type of brake. ISTR Mr. Muzi's shop as having some photos on their
    Web site as well.

    Quoted message said:

    Most bike shop staff say you can't combine brakes which act off pivots on the forks with drop
    handle bars and large profile rims/tyres.

    They'd be wrong. With a pair of DiaCompe 287 brake levers, you can use drop bars with cantilevers
    very easily. With a pair of 287V levers, you can use them with V-brakes.

  11. Comments down at the bottom...

    Tim McNamara <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    Dale Stanbrough said:

    In article <[email hidden]>, A Muzi <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    To define terms ( a popular motif here today!) are your brakes mounted on studs attached to
    the frame and to the fork? Or do they attach with a single center bolt through the brake's
    bridge? If the latter, what size are they? [short=610, long=750 for Weinmanns, other brands
    vary]

    The brake arms are attached to studs brazed? onto the front of the forks. The pads sit 1/2 way
    along the length of the brake arm, and the top is connected traingularly to the center pull
    mechanism.

    <ASCII art snipped>

    Sounds like cantilever brakes. Snoop around the brakes section at www.sheldonbrown.com and you'll
    see photos and examples of each type of brake. ISTR Mr. Muzi's shop as having some photos on their
    Web site as well.

    Quoted message said:

    Most bike shop staff say you can't combine brakes which act off pivots on the forks with drop
    handle bars and large profile rims/tyres.

    They'd be wrong. With a pair of DiaCompe 287 brake levers, you can use drop bars with cantilevers
    very easily. With a pair of 287V levers, you can use them with V-brakes.

    However, Mr. Stanbrough's bike has 700C wheels on a mountain bike frame, which means the
    cantilever studs are not correctly positioned. I'd guess they sit about 31mm too low for
    cantilever brakes to work.

    There are brakes that have a large range of vertical adjustment- Paul's Motolite is one:
    mtbreview.comproduct 20515.shtml These are expensive and rare,
    though. Drilling some mounting holes in the frame and fork and bolting on caliper (centerpull or
    sidepull) brakes might be possible- but only by someone who's an experienced mongrelizer.

    Jeff

  12. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    [email hidden] wrote:
    >So? Who uses centerpull brakes... and why? They are dogs!

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Dale Stanbrough said:

    I have a bike with 700C tyres, drop handle bars and ceterpull brakes (it was converted from a
    mountain bike). I've never been able to find brakes that could replace them. Are there any
    other brakes suitable for this set up?

    Quoted message said:
    In article said:

    To define terms ( a popular motif here today!) are your brakes mounted on studs attached to the
    frame and to the fork? Or do they attach with a single center bolt through the brake's bridge? If
    the latter, what size are they? [short=610, long=750 for Weinmanns, other brands vary]

    Dale Stanbrough said:

    The brake arms are attached to studs brazed? onto the front of the forks.


    -snip a drawing of great effort-

    Quoted message said:

    Most bike shop staff say you can't combine brakes which act off pivots on the forks with drop
    handle bars and large profile rims/tyres.

    They're cantilevers and those are exceptionally verstaile. You can get excellent response from them
    with road levers. Sheldon Brown has a nice overview (which youshould read) but basically you can
    change the position of the pad in relation to the arm and also the angle/length of the transverse
    cable. The latter can change the brake from a low-gear device to high-gear action or the inverse as
    you require.

    --
    Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  13. Tim! 74 posts and a maybe? were talkin the tire unit not the bar unit...??? is it an
    economimc decision?

  14. (Jeff Wills) said:

    However, Mr. Stanbrough's bike has 700C wheels on a mountain bike frame, which means the
    cantilever studs are not correctly positioned. I'd guess they sit about 31mm too low for
    cantilever brakes to work.

    I doubt this. 700C wheels don't usually fit on a mountain bike frame, but they do fit on certain
    hybrid frames, many of which are in essence mountain bike frames designed to take 700C wheels. I
    think it's much more likely that that's what he has.

    Jasper

  15. Jasper Janssen said:
    (Jeff Wills) said:

    However, Mr. Stanbrough's bike has 700C wheels on a mountain bike frame, which means the
    cantilever studs are not correctly positioned. I'd guess they sit about 31mm too low for
    cantilever brakes to work.

    I doubt this. 700C wheels don't usually fit on a mountain bike frame, but they do fit on certain
    hybrid frames, many of which are in essence mountain bike frames designed to take 700C wheels. I
    think it's much more likely that that's what he has.

    yep, it's a Cannondale bike that originally had flat handlebars (i.e. it looked like a mountain
    bike, but with 700C wheels and eyelets for touring).

    Dale

    --
    [email hidden]

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