Cassette / hub / derailleur compatibility?

Richard Corfield said:

Chain-rings are original.

So they're probably worn out as well.

Quoted message said:

It seems to have worn out quite quickly this time.

Probably because the chain rings are worn out...

Richard Corfield said:

I currently have a (very worn out) Shimano 8 speed system with (also
very worn out and stretched) SRAM chain, so intend to replace both. They
were replaced together a year or so ago.

The system was originally Nexave. Now it's the same hub but the cassette
is something still Shimano but with a narrower range than the original
Nexave. It seems to have worn out quite quickly this time. Chain-rings
are original.

How easily could I use something like an SRAM cassette, or a KMC or
Wipperman chain? And if so, which is better? I don't need wide range
as, with three chain-rings, I don't use the range I have. Closer is
together and narrower range is more useful. This will make the chain-rings
more useful. A couple of manufacturers, including Shimano, do 13 to 23
or similar.

You can use any of the makes you listed as long as you get the right
model (8 speed compatibility). Like most manufacturers, they make
products that range from absolute [censored]/cheap to good/lightweight/bling
etc... Pick a brand and model which suits your budget, but if you cycle
a lot, forget the bottom of the range.
As Chris pointed out, the chainrings are likely worn as a year doesn't
sound a lot unless you are racking up loads of miles/year (> 3K at a
guess) or you are not cleaning/lubricating/checking for chain wear
sufficiently.
As I found out, regular (reliable) cycling does require maintenance and
expense :-)

Señor Chris said:

Richard Corfield said:

Chain-rings are original.

So they're probably worn out as well.

Quoted message said:

It seems to have worn out quite quickly this time.

Probably because the chain rings are worn out...

Middle one mostly, which I could replace - or look at the cost of
replacing the whole set.

Still, how much do the hubs vary? Or stick with Shimano as that's the
rest of the equipment.

Thanks

- Richard

--
_/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/_/_/ Richard dot Corfield at gmail dot com
_/ _/ _/ _/
_/_/ _/ _/ Time is a one way street,
_/ _/ _/_/ _/_/_/ except in the Twilight Zone

Peter Pan said:

You can use any of the makes you listed as long as you get the right
model (8 speed compatibility). Like most manufacturers, they make
products that range from absolute [censored]/cheap to good/lightweight/bling
etc... Pick a brand and model which suits your budget, but if you cycle
a lot, forget the bottom of the range.
As Chris pointed out, the chainrings are likely worn as a year doesn't
sound a lot unless you are racking up loads of miles/year (> 3K at a
guess) or you are not cleaning/lubricating/checking for chain wear
sufficiently.
As I found out, regular (reliable) cycling does require maintenance and
expense :-)

I worked it out as a guestimate after posting that. Probably about 2K
for work travel (10 miles times 200 days average worker works), minus a
little for the odd car day or tandem day, plus a bit for leisure riding.
It goes through tyres and brake blocks quite well too, especially brake
blocks which means one day rims at which point cost of repair may be
more than cost of replace.

So are the splines and threads on the rear hub standard? Also a relatively
small set of hole spacings to choose from for the chain rings? Or best
going into a good bike shop and showing them what I want to replace? I
think the latter is starting to sound like a good idea.

Thanks

- Richard

--
_/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/_/_/ Richard dot Corfield at gmail dot com
_/ _/ _/ _/
_/_/ _/ _/ Time is a one way street,
_/ _/ _/_/ _/_/_/ except in the Twilight Zone

Quoted message said:

I worked it out as a guestimate after posting that. Probably about 2K
for work travel (10 miles times 200 days average worker works), minus a
little for the odd car day or tandem day, plus a bit for leisure riding.
It goes through tyres and brake blocks quite well too, especially brake
blocks which means one day rims at which point cost of repair may be
more than cost of replace.

You can probably reduce the number of brake pads you go through by
getting some wet-weather pads. Generic/Shimano ones tend to dissolve in
wet weather. Most people here would recommend Kool-Stop.

Quoted message said:

So are the splines and threads on the rear hub standard?

The spacing between cogs is standard depending on the number of speeds
(7&8/9/10). Since you said 'cassette' earlier, a cassette is held on by
a lockring vs. a 'freewheel' which screws on to the rear hub. You need
to find out which one you bike has. Check sheldonbrown.com for a better
description.

Quoted message said:

Also a relatively
small set of hole spacings to choose from for the chain rings?

This depends on the number of bolts (4 or 5), there are various
standards/sizes. If you can find the model number, the manufacturer will
probably list the Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD) and you will need to
purchase chainrings of the same size (number of teeth and BCD). Common
Shimano 4 arm chainrings are usually "104/64" BCD, referring to the
outer&middle/inner chainring BCD's.

Quoted message said:

Or best
going into a good bike shop and showing them what I want to replace? I
think the latter is starting to sound like a good idea.

Up to you, if you have the tools and the time, more fun doing it
yourself :-)

Peter Pan said:

You can probably reduce the number of brake pads you go through by
getting some wet-weather pads. Generic/Shimano ones tend to dissolve in
wet weather. Most people here would recommend Kool-Stop.

Ok thanks. I've just replaced them with generic, so will have to try to
remember that for next time, or buy them now as I know I will end up
using them.

We get a lot of salt on the roads up here which probably didn't help the
chain either.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

So are the splines and threads on the rear hub standard?

The spacing between cogs is standard depending on the number of speeds
(7&8/9/10). Since you said 'cassette' earlier, a cassette is held on by
a lockring vs. a 'freewheel' which screws on to the rear hub. You need
to find out which one you bike has. Check sheldonbrown.com for a better
description.

The cassette is splined and slips over the hub, with the last cog
separate. A locking ring is then screwed in with a special tool. I'll
see if I can get to a cycle shop this weekend.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Also a relatively
small set of hole spacings to choose from for the chain rings?

This depends on the number of bolts (4 or 5), there are various
standards/sizes. If you can find the model number, the manufacturer will
probably list the Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD) and you will need to
purchase chainrings of the same size (number of teeth and BCD). Common
Shimano 4 arm chainrings are usually "104/64" BCD, referring to the
outer&middle/inner chainring BCD's.

OK thanks. It is a 4. 104/64 looks about right putting a steel rule
against it.

Quoted message said:

Up to you, if you have the tools and the time, more fun doing it
yourself :-)

I'd do it myself - it's just being able to see and talk about the parts
rather than ordering online.

- Richard

--
_/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/_/_/ Richard dot Corfield at gmail dot com
_/ _/ _/ _/
_/_/ _/ _/ Time is a one way street,
_/ _/ _/_/ _/_/_/ except in the Twilight Zone

Señor Chris said:

Unfortunately, replacing one Shimano chain ring with another Shimano
chain ring does not guarantee compatibility. I recently took my bike to
an LBS for a new chain ring and they happily sold me one on the basis
that both rings require 4 bolts. However the new one does not fit - the
inner flanges are too wide to mount on the spider arms.

If you still intend to get serious use out of the bike it may be easier
to start from scratch and replace the entire drivetrain, including a
complete crankset and bottom bracket.

Repair now, or Cycle Scheme later. It had a bottom bracket a couple of
years ago. I'll have a look at the costings. Cycle Scheme could be less
painful as it's a smaller monthly outgoing.

(This bike is a 1999/2000 Ridgeback Bullit with the older bent steel
forks rather than the newer straight ones or suspension ones - bought
end of line when the newer model came out.)

- Richard

--
_/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/_/_/ Richard dot Corfield at gmail dot com
_/ _/ _/ _/
_/_/ _/ _/ Time is a one way street,
_/ _/ _/_/ _/_/_/ except in the Twilight Zone