Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

can dropout spacing be enlarged?

Started by Paul Nevai · · Last activity · 12 posts · 745 views

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
Cycling Equipment
Published
9 May 2004
Last activity
11 May 2004
Original author
Paul Nevai
Posts
12
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
745
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–12 of 12
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. I have a brand new [never built] early 1990-ies Bridgestone
    RB 1 57.5 cm [center of bottom bracket to top] red frame and
    fork. The dropout spacing is 127 mm. This was made for 7 or
    8 speed cassettes. Can the 127 mm dropout spacing be
    enlarged to accept 9 or 10 speed cassettes? Can any
    reputable bike shop do it or do I need to find a specialist?
    Thanks, Paul

  2. Quoted message said:

    I have a brand new [never built] early 1990-ies
    Bridgestone RB 1 57.5 cm [center of bottom bracket to top]
    red frame and fork. The dropout spacing


    is

    Quoted message said:

    127 mm. This was made for 7 or 8 speed cassettes. Can the
    127 mm dropout spacing be enlarged to accept 9 or 10 speed
    cassettes? Can any reputable


    bike

    Quoted message said:

    shop do it or do I need to find a specialist? Thanks, Paul

    Paul: Moving from 127mm (a "sloppy" 126, actually) to 130 is
    very easily done by just about any bike shop. In the old
    days, I used to think it required all manner of fancy tools
    and jigging, until I saw someone's home movies & slide show
    from a visit to the DeRosa factory in Italy (during the mid-
    70s). I was *shocked* to see them aligning frames with long
    2x4s!!! But then I thought about it and realized that a 2x4
    is actually a pretty decent frame alignment tool. You can
    get variable leverage, it's soft enough to not dent the seat
    tube that you're leveraging against, and, after a few
    practice runs, you get a very good feel for the yield point
    (the place where you permanently move the stays).

    I don't recommend this for home use unless you have a junker
    frame you can practice on first. As with most things that
    require a bit of a "touch" to get right, the first time you
    try it, it might not go so well. Obviously, you need to do
    both sides an equal amount, which means you measure the
    dropout width ahead of time (after confirming the frame is
    initially in alignment) and then move the first stay half
    the required distance. Then switch sides and do the other
    stay. If the frame was aligned properly before this, it will
    remain so after.

    By the way, don't try this with a bonded frame of any type,
    nor is it wise to try and attempt it with an overbuilt (as
    most are) aluminum frame. The bonded frame may lose
    integrity at the bonded junction, and the overbuilt aluminum
    frame may require more force than you can possibly manage.
    This trick is best for old steel frames. Also, it's not a
    good idea to try and spread from 120mm (really old standard)
    to 130mm, unless you won't mind the dimpling that you'll
    likely find. Likewise, not a good idea to move from 126mm to
    135mm. But 126mm to 130mm is easy.

    Oh, one last thing. Make sure you realign the dropouts
    themselves, so the locknuts on the wheels sit flat against
    them. Otherwise you'll likely end up with broken dropouts
    not too far down the road.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    chainreactionbicycles.comchainreactionbicycles.com

    "Paul Nevai" <[email hidden]> wrote in message -"]news:[email hidden]-
    state.edu...

    Quoted message said:

    I have a brand new [never built] early 1990-ies
    Bridgestone RB 1 57.5 cm [center of bottom bracket to top]
    red frame and fork. The dropout spacing


    is

    Quoted message said:

    127 mm. This was made for 7 or 8 speed cassettes. Can the
    127 mm dropout spacing be enlarged to accept 9 or 10 speed
    cassettes? Can any reputable


    bike

    Quoted message said:

    shop do it or do I need to find a specialist? Thanks, Paul

  3. "Paul Nevai" <[email hidden]> schreef in bericht
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I have a brand new [never built] early 1990-ies
    Bridgestone RB 1 57.5 cm [center of bottom bracket to top]
    red frame and fork. The dropout spacing


    is

    Quoted message said:

    127 mm. This was made for 7 or 8 speed cassettes. Can the
    127 mm dropout spacing be enlarged to accept 9 or 10 speed
    cassettes? Can any reputable


    bike

    Quoted message said:

    shop do it or do I need to find a specialist? Thanks, Paul

    If your frame is made of steel it can be done by hand (by
    yourself) at no risk at all (personal expierence). If the
    frame is alu, you can also do it yourself, but there is a
    little risk involved.

    Bert

    --
    Posted by news://news.nb.nu

  4. Bert L.am said:

    If the frame is alu, you can also do it yourself, but
    there is a little risk involved.

    I would seriously question that. For a very cheap alu frame
    which you didn't expect to keep for long it might be worth
    the risk, but you'd have to make the bend in one go -
    multiple corrections would be very bad news indeed.

    I wouldn't even dream of trying it on a Cannondale etc.

  5. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by Paul Nevai
    I have a brand new [never built] early 1990-ies Bridgestone
    RB 1 57.5 cm [center of bottom bracket to top] red frame and
    fork. The dropout spacing is 127 mm. This was made for 7 or
    8 speed cassettes. Can the 127 mm dropout spacing be
    enlarged to accept 9 or 10 speed cassettes? Can any
    reputable bike shop do it or do I need to find a specialist?
    Thanks, Paul

    Steel RB1 can go to 130 mm.
    You can read about it yourself and then follow the suggestions from Mike at Chain Reactions:
    http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
    It is nice to trust your shop to do it.
    If it were an aluminum or a carbon frame I would NOT consider it.
    There still are many 7 speed 126 mm HG hubs and HG cassettes available at reasonable prices.

  6. I have a Hinault Look frame made of Reynolds 753. I have
    heard somewere that this tubing can NOT be re-spaced.
    Any ideas?

  7. Quoted message said:

    I have a Hinault Look frame made of Reynolds 753. I have
    heard somewere that this tubing can NOT be re-spaced.
    Any ideas?

    It can. Phil Brown

  8. gevans-<< I have a Hinault Look frame made of Reynolds 753.
    I have heard somewere that this tubing can NOT be re-spaced.
    Any ideas? >><BR><BR>

    753 can and even 853 frames most often have a 753 rear
    triangle. A 853 rear triangle 'can' be a tough one to
    change.

    Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St.
    Boulder, CO, 80302
    (303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali
    costruite eccezionalmente bene"

  9. "Zog The Undeniable" <[email hidden]> schreef in bericht
    news:409e90c3.0@entanet...

    Quoted message said:
    Bert L.am said:

    If the frame is alu, you can also do it yourself, but
    there is a little risk involved.

    I would seriously question that. For a very cheap alu
    frame which you didn't expect to keep for long it might be
    worth the risk, but you'd have to make the bend in one go
    - multiple corrections would be very bad news indeed.

    I wouldn't even dream of trying it on a Cannondale etc.

    you're right. Don't do it

    --
    Posted by news://news.nb.nu

  10. On 9 May 2004 17:15:55 GMT, [email hidden] (Paul Nevai)

    Quoted message said:

    127 mm. This was made for 7 or 8 speed cassettes. Can the
    127 mm dropout spacing be enlarged to accept 9 or 10 speed
    cassettes? Can any reputable bike

    For a 3mm difference, it's probably worth not touching at
    all; just stick the wheel in there. It will be a slightly
    tight fit.
    --
    Rick Onanian

  11. [email hidden] (Paul Nevai) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    I have a brand new [never built] early 1990-ies
    Bridgestone RB 1 57.5 cm [center of bottom bracket to top]
    red frame and fork. The dropout spacing is 127 mm. This
    was made for 7 or 8 speed cassettes. Can the 127 mm
    dropout spacing be enlarged to accept 9 or 10 speed
    cassettes? Can any reputable bike shop do it or do I need
    to find a specialist?

    I have an RB1 of roughly the same vintage. Don't even bother
    spreading it to 130 mm, the current road standard (8-9-
    10sp). It isn't worth 2 minutes more of your time to even
    think about it. I've never bothered to spread mine, and
    don't have any troubles.

    The Shimano freehubs _used to have_ (I don't know if they
    still do), rounded nuts on them for the specific purpose of
    easily popping a 130 mm hub into a 126 dropout. It works. I
    have 4 steel roadbikes all with 126 mm dropouts, but all
    paired with 130 mm Shimano hubs. It is so easy to get the
    wheels in it never even occurs to me it is imperfect.

    Now putting a 135 mm hub into a 126 frame is a little
    different story -- one will really notice that the drop out
    is too narrow. I've done that too, but once I got it in, it
    seemed okay. Just a bit of a PITA.

  12. (gwhite) said:

    [email hidden] (Paul Nevai) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]-
    state.edu>...

    Quoted message said:

    I have a brand new [never built] early 1990-ies
    Bridgestone RB 1 57.5 cm [center of bottom bracket to
    top] red frame and fork. The dropout spacing is 127 mm.
    This was made for 7 or 8 speed cassettes. Can the 127 mm
    dropout spacing be enlarged to accept 9 or 10 speed
    cassettes? Can any reputable bike shop do it or do I need
    to find a specialist?

    I have an RB1 of roughly the same vintage. Don't even
    bother spreading it to 130 mm, the current road standard
    (8-9-10sp). It isn't worth 2 minutes more of your time to
    even think about it. I've never bothered to spread mine,
    and don't have any troubles.

    The Shimano freehubs _used to have_ (I don't know if they
    still do), rounded nuts on them for the specific purpose of
    easily popping a 130 mm hub into a 126 dropout. It works. I
    have 4 steel roadbikes all with 126 mm dropouts, but all
    paired with 130 mm Shimano hubs. It is so easy to get the
    wheels in it never even occurs to me it is imperfect.

    Works fine with aluminum frames too, at least it's worked
    for me with a 1989 (or so) Trek 1400 (bonded aluminum). I've
    been riding it this way for about four years now. In fact I
    just popped the wheel back into the frame an hour or so ago.
    Easy to do!

    jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net
    home.earthlink.net~jeverett3

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.