Campy Record Bottom Bracket Spacer

Tom Gaul-<< I need to know how and where to install the spacers I was told I needed because I'm
using the 11-21 cassette. So far all I know is they/it need to be installed on the chain ring side
of the bottom bracket. >><BR><BR>

No spacer needed because you are using any certain casette in the rear. If the small ring hits your
chainstay, then something else is amiss. There is nothing about a casette that would necessitate a
spacer under a BB cup.

Tom Gaul-<< I recieved two spacers one is about 1mm and the other is 2.5mm the diameter is too small
to fit over the threaded area of the chain ring side so I don't have any directions to do this. At
this time all I can think is these might be the wrong size(diameter) for the Italian threaded frame.
Any one done a Campy build and used these. Tom Gaul

No spacers are supplied by Campagnolo for a Campagnolo BB....

--
2003 Coppi KSC/Record 1985 C'dale R900 C Record 1984 Lotus Prestige Nouvo Record

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"Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Tom Gaul-<< I need to know how and where to install the spacers I was told

I

Quoted message said:

needed because I'm using the 11-21 cassette. So far all I know is they/it need to be installed on
the chain ring side of the bottom bracket. >><BR><BR>

No spacer needed because you are using any certain casette in the rear. If

the

Quoted message said:

small ring hits your chainstay, then something else is amiss. There is

nothing

Quoted message said:

about a casette that would necessitate a spacer under a BB cup.

Tom Gaul-<< I recieved two spacers one is about 1mm and the other is 2.5mm the diameter is too
small to fit over the threaded area of the chain ring side so I don't have any directions to do
this. At this time all I can think is these might be the wrong size(diameter) for the Italian
threaded frame. Any one done a Campy build and used these. Tom Gaul

No spacers are supplied by Campagnolo for a Campagnolo BB....

Branford lists these spacers, but IIRC, only for British threaded frames. Why do you think you
need them?

If your crankset is not out of alignment with your cassette, you *don't* need them. And with an
Italian threaded frame, the question may be moot anyway.

Lee

tomgaul <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

I need to know how and where to install the spacers I was told I needed because I'm using the
11-21 cassette. So far all I know is they/it need to be installed on the chain ring side of the
bottom bracket. I removed the cranks from the bottom bracket and the bottom bracket from the
frame. I recieved two spacers one is about 1mm and the other is 2.5mm the diameter is too small to
fit over the threaded area of the chain ring side so I don't have any directions to do this. At
this time all I can think is these might be the wrong size(diameter) for the Italian threaded
frame. Any one done a Campy build and used these. Tom Gaul

Are you sure the spacers are meant for the bottom bracket? I don't really know about Campagnolo hubs
and cassettes, but with Shimano you sometimes need to use a spacer on the hub, for instance to put a
narrowish 7-speed cassette on a wider 9-speed hub.

Thanks for the replys, I din't check back right away thinking I got this problem taken care of. I now know that the spacer is needed between the right side of the BB and the cup to move the cahin rings to the right for proper alignment of the chainrings to the cassette, apparently only when using the 39 - 11 combination. The chain will rub on the inside of the 53, once I shift to the 12 it's okay. Right now I have a 1.5mm spacer in place but I'm still getting the rub. I'm going to email Campy and see what they think. The distributer is supposed to send me two 1mm spacers to see if that will work.

tomgaul said:

Thanks for the replys, I din't check back right away thinking I got this problem taken care of. I
now know that the spacer is needed between the right side of the BB and the cup to move the cahin
rings to the right for proper alignment of the chainrings to the cassette, apparently only when
using the 39 - 11 combination. The chain will rub on the inside of the 53, once I shift to the 12
it's okay. Right now I have a 1.5mm spacer in place but I'm still getting the rub. I'm going to
email Campy and see what they think. The distributer is supposed to send me two 1mm spacers to see
if that will work.

You should never, ever, under any circumstances be using the 39/11 combination.

It's generally abusive to ride in the small/small combination, but especially so when there's an 11
tooth involved. There's nothing wrong with your bike.

If you do space out the BB to make the useless 39/11 gear usable, you'll cause deterioration on some
of the more useful combinations involving the big chainring.

See: sheldonbrown.comgears.htmlOpen ↗

Sheldon "It Ain't Broke" Brown +-----------------------------------+
| Habit is the nursery of errors. | --Victor Hugo |
+-----------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772
FAX 617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.comOpen ↗ Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
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Quoted message said:

You should never, ever, under any circumstances be using the 39/11 combination.

It's generally abusive to ride in the small/small combination, but especially so when there's an
11 tooth involved. There's nothing wrong with your bike.

If you do space out the BB to make the useless 39/11 gear usable, you'll cause deterioration on
some of the more useful combinations involving the big chainring.

See: sheldonbrown.comgears.htmlOpen ↗

Sheldon "It Ain't Broke" Brown

I've heard it said many times that the small/small combination is a no-no but what makes it worse
when an 11 tooth is involved?

Rob "Just Curious" Strickland

"Robert Strickland" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

You should never, ever, under any circumstances be using the 39/11 combination.

It's generally abusive to ride in the small/small combination, but especially so when there's an
11 tooth involved. There's nothing wrong with your bike.

If you do space out the BB to make the useless 39/11 gear usable, you'll cause deterioration on
some of the more useful combinations involving the big chainring.

See: sheldonbrown.comgears.htmlOpen ↗

Sheldon "It Ain't Broke" Brown

I've heard it said many times that the small/small combination is a no-no but what makes it worse
when an 11 tooth is involved?

Rob "Just Curious" Strickland

Dear Rob,

Just guessing, but the initial problem is the chain is angled between the inside front chain-ring
and the outside rear cog.

The sideways pull presumably increases wear on any size cog.

The poor 11-tooth is the smallest widely available cog, so each of its teeth wears at a rate of 1/11
or 9.1% of the wear, noticeably more rapidly than the teeth on larger gears--a 12-tooth cog
distributes its wear over a dozen teeth at a rate of 1/12 or 8.33% per tooth, a 13-tooth at 1/13 or
7.7%, and so on.

This is why my heavily used front 53-tooth chain-ring outlasts my hideously overused 11-tooth rear
cog--the wear is spread out over more teeth (at shallower angles, too). Normal riders use other rear
cogs far more than I do, spreading the wear out over up to 10 rear cogs, so I'm a bit sensitive
about this.

A simpler way to look at such figures is that each tooth on the 11-tooth bears almost 10% more of
the stress than a tooth on a 12-tooth cog--not just when the chain is pulled over at an awkward
angle, but in all operations.

Added to this is problem that the chain enters, wraps around, and exits from the 11-tooth cog more
sharply than from larger cogs.

A final problem is that the load on an 11-tooth is likely to be higher, gear mashing.

A 12-tooth would last longer under such severe cross-chaining, but would still be abused. So, to a
lesser extent, is the opposite large-large cross-chaining. And the chain doesn't like to be bent
sideways under load like that, either.

Plus, there's often an annoying noise.

If nothing else, this may provoke more informed explanations.

Carl Fogel

I prescribed:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

You should never, ever, under any circumstances be using the 39/11 combination.

It's generally abusive to ride in the small/small combination, but especially so when there's an
11 tooth involved. There's nothing wrong with your bike.

If you do space out the BB to make the useless 39/11 gear usable, you'll cause deterioration on
some of the more useful combinations involving the big chainring.

See: sheldonbrown.comgears.htmlOpen ↗

Rob "Just Curious" Strickland asked:

Quoted message said:

I've heard it said many times that the small/small combination is a no-no but what makes it worse
when an 11 tooth is involved?

The large/large and small/small combinations both suffer from poor chain alignment, but the
small/small combination has more severe problems:

The smaller chainring in front creates a stronger pull on the chain for a given amount of
pedal force.

The smallest rear sprocket shares that increased pull among fewer teeth and chain rollers, leading
to a high concentration of the load.

With an 11 tooth sprocket, you're lucky to have 5 teeth actually engaging the chain at any time, 6
at the very most.

The smaller both sprockets are, the more damaging the small/small gear combination is both to the
sprockets and the chain.

Generally, with double chainring setups, it is best to avoid the small/small gear combination, but
when there's an 11 or 12 tooth involved (or a triple chainwheel in front) riding in that combination
constitutes actual abuse of the equpiment.

Sheldon "Straight And Narrow" Brown
+---------------------------------------------------------------+
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| America and Other Poems" | on the Web at: sheldonbrown.comomearaOpen ↗ |
+---------------------------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton,
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shipped Worldwide captainbike.comcaptainbike.comOpen ↗ sheldonbrown.comsheldonbrown.comOpen ↗