Campy Ergo Rebuild Question

"Mark A. Clark" wrote ...

Quoted message said:

I need to re-build the right hand lever--2000 Record 10.
Can I just replace the "G" springs or should I replace the
cam also? Anything else? Thanks.

You're probably fine with just the g-springs, although
some local (rbt) experts might say the cam is easy too. I
did my g-springs recently and as long as you are careful
with disassembly sequence you'll be fine. I found this
website helpful:

velonews.comlevers2.htmlOpen ↗

yellowjersey.orgergo1.htmlOpen ↗ (try this first)

JF

In article <[email hidden]>,

Mark A. Clark said:

I need to re-build the right hand lever--2000 Record 10.
Can I just replace the "G" springs

If this is the first time arround just replace the G-springs
and maybe the thumb lever return spring - it seems to wear
out about the same time.

--
<a href="poohsticks.orgdrewOpen ↗">Home Page</a

On Mon, 14 Jun 2004 22:24:21 GMT, "Jim Flom" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

You're probably fine with just the g-springs, although
some local (rbt) experts might say the cam is easy too. I
did my g-springs recently and as long as you are careful
with disassembly sequence you'll be fine. I found this
website helpful:

The shift disk doesn't need to be replaced. If it did need
replacing, you get it in your hand when you change the
springs and replacing it would be no additional steps.

On Mon, 14 Jun 2004 16:48:27 -0600, [email hidden] (Drew

Eckhardt) said:

If this is the first time arround just replace the G-
springs and maybe the thumb lever return spring - it seems
to wear out about the same time.

I don't agree. I haven't replaced a return spring yet. I
would recommend that you have a spring carrier around when
changing the G springs. That part is most likely to be
broken and is discovered during the spring change.

jedi-<< I need to re-build the right hand lever--2000 Record
10. Can I just replace the "G" springs or should I replace
the cam also? Anything else? >><BR><BR>

In the 12 or so years I have been rebuilding these things, I
have never seen a shift cam wear out. If ya talk to a
'local' MO outfit, they will say it does but..Just clean,
lube, new shift springs. Check the spring carrier(EC-RE-111)
for a busted post or being split. Grind the notch in the plate(EC-RE-
057) flat so it doesn't notch the post and grind the portion
of the back plastic cap(EC-RE-124) right above the post of
the EC-RE-111.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali
costruite eccezionalmente bene"

On 15 Jun 2004 13:21:57 GMT, [email hidden] (Qui si parla

Campagnolo ) said:

Grind the notch in the plate(EC-RE-057) flat so it doesn't
notch the post and grind the portion of the back plastic
cap(EC-RE-124) right above the post of the EC-RE-111.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali
costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Rather than grinding the back plastic, why don't you grind
down the top of the spring carrier post?

Paul Kopit said:

Quoted message said:

If this is the first time arround just replace the G-
springs and maybe the thumb lever return spring - it
seems to wear out about the same time.

I don't agree. I haven't replaced a return spring yet. I
would recommend that you have a spring carrier around when
changing the G springs. That part is most likely to be
broken and is discovered during the spring change.

I agree with you that the existing spring won't need
replacing but it's still a good idea to have a spare one.
They're easy to damage when refitting, on the first
attempt anyway.

~PB

I rebuild the levers on my two campy-equipped bikes about
once every 2 years. It's a little difficult the first time,
but after that it's really not bad at all. I'd highly
recommend doing it, as it's a ton cheaper than buying new
levers. Also when you're done, your levers feel like new
ones! So even if it's not needed to replace the springs
every now and then, it's still nice to do. The first time I
replaced the shift cam, but now I only do the springs. It's
not necessary to replace the shift cam, but if you do your
warm and fuzzy feeling when you're done is a little warmer
and fuzzier. But that's all.

Chances are you only need to replace the springs. Branford
Bike sells the springs (and pretty much all of the other
parts). Here is a good place to start on their web site:

branfordbike.combrk02.htmlOpen ↗

As mentioned in an earlier post, the yellow jersey bike shop
has a manual for the rebuilding process:
yellowjersey.orgergo1.htmlOpen ↗

I'd also recommend buying the ergo rebuild manual
(Branford bike has
it) as it's different than the yellow jersey manual, and the
first time you do this the more help you've got the
better off you are.

John Feinberg feinberj42 (at ya-hoo)

"Mark A. Clark" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

I need to re-build the right hand lever--2000 Record 10.
Can I just replace the "G" springs or should I replace the
cam also? Anything else? Thanks.

Mark

john-<< Branford Bike sells the springs (and pretty much all
of the other parts). >><BR><BR>

Except often they will state they have no 'parts' for older
levers, like 8s ERGO. Many places do this stuff everyday w/o
kneeling to other websites and what they say.

Check out us or YellowJersey, Andy Muzi in Madison WI.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali
costruite eccezionalmente bene"

[email hidden] (John Feinberg) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

The first time I replaced the shift cam, but now I only do
the springs. It's not necessary to replace the shift cam,
but if you do your warm and fuzzy feeling when you're done
is a little warmer and fuzzier. But that's all.

Chances are you only need to replace the springs.

Symptoms with my '96 chorus include that the right shifter
has gone silent (no clicks as before), and I find that the
system tends to shift to smaller rear cogs when climbing out
of the saddle.

Any thoughts on whether parts in addition to springs are
needed for the fix?