Campy Ergo Rebuild Question

"Mark A. Clark" wrote ...

Quoted message said:

I need to re-build the right hand lever--2000 Record 10. Can I just
replace the "G" springs or should I replace the cam also? Anything
else? Thanks.

You're probably fine with just the g-springs, although some local (rbt)
experts might say the cam is easy too. I did my g-springs recently and as
long as you are careful with disassembly sequence you'll be fine. I found
this website helpful:

http://www.velonews.com/tech/rev/levers2.html

http://www.yellowjersey.org/ergo1.html (try this first)

JF

In article <[email hidden]>,

Mark A. Clark said:

I need to re-build the right hand lever--2000 Record 10. Can I just
replace the "G" springs

If this is the first time arround just replace the G-springs and
maybe the thumb lever return spring - it seems to wear out about
the same time.

--
<a href="http://www.poohsticks.org/drew/">Home Page</a>
Life is a terminal sexually transmitted disease.

On Mon, 14 Jun 2004 22:24:21 GMT, "Jim Flom" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

You're probably fine with just the g-springs, although some local (rbt)
experts might say the cam is easy too. I did my g-springs recently and as
long as you are careful with disassembly sequence you'll be fine. I found
this website helpful:

The shift disk doesn't need to be replaced. If it did need replacing,
you get it in your hand when you change the springs and replacing it
would be no additional steps.

On Mon, 14 Jun 2004 16:48:27 -0600, [email hidden] (Drew

Eckhardt) said:

If this is the first time arround just replace the G-springs and
maybe the thumb lever return spring - it seems to wear out about
the same time.

I don't agree. I haven't replaced a return spring yet. I would
recommend that you have a spring carrier around when changing the G
springs. That part is most likely to be broken and is discovered
during the spring change.

jedi-<< I need to re-build the right hand lever--2000 Record 10. Can I just
replace the "G" springs or should I replace the cam also? Anything
else? >><BR><BR>

In the 12 or so years I have been rebuilding these things, I have never seen a
shift cam wear out. If ya talk to a 'local' MO outfit, they will say it does
but..Just clean, lube, new shift springs. Check the spring carrier(EC-RE-111)
for a busted post or being split. Grind the notch in the plate(EC-RE-057) flat
so it doesn't notch the post and grind the portion of the back plastic
cap(EC-RE-124) right above the post of the EC-RE-111.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

On 15 Jun 2004 13:21:57 GMT, [email hidden] (Qui si parla

Campagnolo ) said:

Grind the notch in the plate(EC-RE-057) flat
so it doesn't notch the post and grind the portion of the back plastic
cap(EC-RE-124) right above the post of the EC-RE-111.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Rather than grinding the back plastic, why don't you grind down the
top of the spring carrier post?

Paul Kopit said:

Quoted message said:

If this is the first time arround just replace the G-springs and
maybe the thumb lever return spring - it seems to wear out about
the same time.

I don't agree. I haven't replaced a return spring yet. I would
recommend that you have a spring carrier around when changing the G
springs. That part is most likely to be broken and is discovered
during the spring change.

I agree with you that the existing spring won't need replacing but it's
still a good idea to have a spare one. They're easy to damage when
refitting, on the first attempt anyway.

~PB

paul-<< Rather than grinding the back plastic, why don't you grind down the
top of the spring carrier post? >><BR><BR>

Often the spring will be at the very top of the post. Grinding too much off may
have the spring unwind, causing a rebuild. Back cap grind much easier, not
mucking with the shift innards.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

I rebuild the levers on my two campy-equipped bikes about once every 2
years. It's a little difficult the first time, but after that it's
really not bad at all. I'd highly recommend doing it, as it's a ton
cheaper than buying new levers. Also when you're done, your levers
feel like new ones! So even if it's not needed to replace the springs
every now and then, it's still nice to do. The first time I replaced
the shift cam, but now I only do the springs. It's not necessary to
replace the shift cam, but if you do your warm and fuzzy feeling when
you're done is a little warmer and fuzzier. But that's all.

Chances are you only need to replace the springs. Branford Bike sells
the springs (and pretty much all of the other parts). Here is a good
place to start on their web site:

http://www.branfordbike.com/brake/brk02.html#item4

As mentioned in an earlier post, the yellow jersey bike shop has a
manual for the rebuilding process:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/ergo1.html

I'd also recommend buying the ergo rebuild manual (Branford bike has
it) as it's different than the yellow jersey manual, and the first
time you do this the more help you've got the better off you are.

John Feinberg
feinberj42
(at ya-hoo)

"Mark A. Clark" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

I need to re-build the right hand lever--2000 Record 10. Can I just
replace the "G" springs or should I replace the cam also? Anything
else? Thanks.

Mark

john-<< Branford Bike sells
the springs (and pretty much all of the other parts). >><BR><BR>

Except often they will state they have no 'parts' for older levers, like 8s
ERGO. Many places do this stuff everyday w/o kneeling to other websites and
what they say.

Check out us or YellowJersey, Andy Muzi in Madison WI.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

[email hidden] (John Feinberg) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

The first time I replaced
the shift cam, but now I only do the springs. It's not necessary to
replace the shift cam, but if you do your warm and fuzzy feeling when
you're done is a little warmer and fuzzier. But that's all.

Chances are you only need to replace the springs.

Symptoms with my '96 chorus include that the right shifter has gone
silent (no clicks as before), and I find that the system tends to
shift to smaller rear cogs when climbing out of the saddle.

Any thoughts on whether parts in addition to springs are needed for
the fix?

dvwlt-<< Symptoms with my '96 chorus include that the right shifter has gone
silent (no clicks as before), and I find that the system tends to
shift to smaller rear cogs when climbing out of the saddle. >><BR><BR>

Springs for sure(2 of them) and perhaps a spring carrier(EC-RE-011). they
sometimes split-

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"