Any help on the following would be much appreciated.
I recently serviced my bike and to clean the rear mech, I removed both jockey wheels in order to unbolt it from the dropout.
Now that its all back together, when I am in second gear, the cage of the rear mech catches on first gear of the block. This did not happen before.
I have tried adjusting the screw that is suppost to withdraw the cage from the block. However, adjusting this screw to its extreme (anti-clockwise) position does not provide a cure.
Does anyone have any ideas on how I might fix this?
Does anyone have any ideas on how I might fix this?
The easy way is to remove the rear mech again, and use a chain tool to shorten the chain so it is tight (but not too tight) when round the middle chainring and the cog in a straight line behind it. This means you will never have to clean your rear mech again!
To properly FIX it, you will need to change the hub to one without a freewheel ratchet, but if you don't want to do that, you could try plenty of araldite in the ratchets.
Any help on the following would be much appreciated.
I recently serviced my bike and to clean the rear mech, I removed both jockey wheels in order to unbolt it from the dropout.
Now that its all back together, when I am in second gear, the cage of the rear mech catches on first gear of the block. This did not happen before.
I have tried adjusting the screw that is suppost to withdraw the cage from the block. However, adjusting this screw to its extreme (anti-clockwise) position does not provide a cure.
Does anyone have any ideas on how I might fix this?
have you fitted the inner cage plate upside down? -- --- Marten Gerritsen
I recently serviced my bike and to clean the rear mech, I removed both jockey wheels in order to unbolt it from the dropout.
Now that its all back together, when I am in second gear, the cage of the rear mech catches on first gear of the block. This did not happen before.
Quoted message said:
have you fitted the inner cage plate upside down?
Exactly my thoughts, having just done the same thing. I only realized because the plate rubbed on the upper jockey wheel. Drinky - the "bulky" part of the inner plate is the lower bit.
The other caveat is to ensure that the cable is routed *outside* the little right-angle "peg" on the clamp, thence anti-clockwise around the bolt for best clamping. It seems intuitive to route it between this peg and the bolt for security, but this will mess up your shifting.
Make sure you have your jockey wheels the right way around, too. The upper and lower wheels are different, and on my 2001 Veloce, the lower wheel is asymmetric and has rotation direction indicated on it.
Does anyone have any ideas on how I might fix this?
The easy way is to remove the rear mech again, and use a chain tool to shorten the chain so it is tight (but not too tight) when round the middle chainring and the cog in a straight line behind it. This means you will never have to clean your rear mech again!
Since it worked before, I'd not touch the chain yet. As others have said, check that you have the cage on right. While you're at it, remember that the jocket wheels are top and bottom specific (though getting this wrong won't cause such drastic problems)
>Does anyone have any ideas on how I might fix this?
The easy way is to remove the rear mech again, and use a chain tool to shorten the chain so it is tight (but not too tight) when round the middle chainring and the cog in a straight line behind it. This means you will never have to clean your rear mech again!
Since it worked before, I'd not touch the chain yet. As others have said, check that you have the cage on right. While you're at it, remember that the jocket wheels are top and bottom specific (though getting this wrong won't cause such drastic problems)
I'd read iakobski's reply again, carefully, in relation to the *exact* question posed. I think you missed his point.
>>Does anyone have any ideas on how I might fix this?
The easy way is to remove the rear mech again, and use a chain tool to shorten the chain so it is tight (but not too tight) when round the middle chainring and the cog in a straight line behind it. This means you will never have to clean your rear mech again!
Since it worked before, I'd not touch the chain yet. As others have said, check that you have the cage on right. While you're at it, remember that the jocket wheels are top and bottom specific (though getting this wrong won't cause such drastic problems)
I'd read iakobski's reply again, carefully, in relation to the *exact* question posed. I think you missed his point.
I re-read this on the advice of Mark Tranchant's post and what you proposes is genius.
If I'm not mistaken, you have, in a single stroke, laid down the blue-print for a single speed/fixed gear appraoch to cycling. Totally pure, lower weight and the added benefit of no fiddly cables or fancy brake and gear levers.
"Drinky" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Many thanks for all the advice. The inner cage plate was indeed the wrong way around and it now works a treat.
I was on the verge of buying a new derailleur and am very happy that I asked here first.
If you go onto the www.campagnolo.com website you will find .pdf instructions with diagrams for almost all their components. It's certainly helped me in the past.
