fillarji said:Yes that seems the best way to go currently. I would prefer putting the spacers outboard, between the bolts cap and outer end of derailleur. That way the derailleur will be mounted the way it was originally...
11mm ID means inner diameter? How thick should the copper tubing be, is 1-2mm good to go?
I live in Finland so is the best way to find copper tubing in a hardware store and just cut it with a saw?
Yes, sorry for not expanding the abbreviation -- "ID" is the abbreviation for "inner diameter" ...
I don't think you will have an option with regard to how thick the tubing will be ... if copper tubing which is ~2mm thick is available, then that's what you should get because it will nest in the shroud's recess, but it will probably be thinner.
To cut the tubing, a TUBING CUTTER would be best, but you can simply take a sharp knife and ROLL the knife across tubing ... that is, put the tubing on a "work surface" ...
[INDENT]Then, place the edge of the blade perpendicular to the tubing's axis, and then, roll the tubing beneath the knife blade and thereby score the outer surface of the tubing. Keep rolling the tubing/knife until you have scored at least 3/4 of the way through ...
The deeper you score the tubing, the easier it will be separate the pieces.
Using a knife will be tedious, but a tubing cutter probably cannot cut a "spacer" that is shorter than ~5mm.
[/INDENT]Brass tubing would be more robust ... you would still use a tubing cutter or sharp knife.
If you made a steel collar/spacer, then you would need to use a saw to cut the tubing.
If (initial) appearance doesn't matter OR particularly if the difference is only a 2mm then you could make the collar/spacer from an old 14g spoke by coiling it around the bolt's core and then adjusting the length/etc., accordingly.