For off-road 36":
Round cross-section for turning ease, not a sharp edged square
cross-section like the Gazz...
Front tire knob pattern, medium-to-wide spacing between knobs for snow
and mud shedding.
Knobs approximately 2-2.5 times the height of the current Coker tire.
Beveled knobs will help with turning, but they should be beveled
equally in all directions, not asymmetrically like a bike rear tire.
We brake and climb with the same tire, so we are applying torque in
both directions, and thus need symmetry. Bevels will also increase the
life of the tread/tire significantly.
Stiffer sidewalls than most, because we turn more sharply and hop
sideways up inclines (yes on 36"😉. We have to have lower pressure, say
20-30 psi, so we need stiff sidewalls to help that occur. The current
29er bicycle tires, most of them, require higher pressures to maintain
profile and that screws up the ground interface, and bump absorption,
and general traction.
The feedback I've gotten and seen says that the TA stinks off-road, as
one would expect. I haven't ridden one.
If you took the current Coker tire that we use, if you:
-- extended the knobs further up the sidewall for better traction on
turns and sidehopping
-- made the knobs taller and bevelled them some (perhaps spreading
them further apart),
-- softened up the rubber some for better traction,
-- manipulated the cords for a slightly softer feel and lighter weight
while maintaining a stiff sidewall
-- eliminated the manufacturing and/or shipping conditions that result
in kinks in the bead from time to time
you'd have a really good first go at a good 36" off-road tire.
IMHO.
I've ridden the current design off-road in snow and ice, and it
actually did really well. This was lowering the pressure to where the
sidewall was bulging significantly.
Thanks!
--
U-Turn
Weep in the dojo... laugh on the battlefield.
-- Dave Stockton
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