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Cadence Question

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Australia and New Zealand
Published
5 August 2004
Last activity
7 August 2004
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John Green
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17
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  1. Can someone explain Cadence to me.

    I know it means RPM that you are pedalling, but if you are in a low gear
    your Cadence will be high, and if you are in a high gear, it will be lower.

    So what should I aim for to be beneficial?

    John

  2. Quoted message said:

    "John Green" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    I know it means RPM that you are pedalling, but if you are in a low gear
    your Cadence will be high, and if you are in a high gear, it will be lower.

    Exactly.

    Quoted message said:

    So what should I aim for to be beneficial?

    Around 90rpm is a good start. Lower cadence generally means more
    strain on the knees because you're pushing too big of a gear (or you're climbing, which is the same thing - painful :-) ). Higher cadence is good
    if you can do it without bobbing your butt up and down all over the
    place.

    Speaking of cadence, I just fitted my first cadence measuring device
    in the form of a Polar sensor.. I'll review the data tonight and have a
    detailed report asap - because I know you all want to see the cadence
    graph from my commute.. right? :P

    hippy

  3. hippy said:

    Speaking of cadence, I just fitted my first cadence measuring device
    in the form of a Polar sensor.. I'll review the data tonight and have a
    detailed report asap - because I know you all want to see the cadence
    graph from my commute.. right? :P

    hippy

    data-wars!

    yeah, i wanna see these mythical rpms you hit going down hill :P

  4. Quoted message said:

    flyingdutch
    data-wars!

    🙂

    Quoted message said:

    yeah, i wanna see these mythical rpms you hit going down hill :P

    Okay.. Well I set the display so that I couldn't see cadence as I wanted a
    baseline for a 'normal' commute. I also raised my saddle by .75cm last night
    as I'm making some adjustments to my road bike setup. ALSO.. I'm starting
    a new training scheme so I was keeping my HR below 170, which meant I
    wasn't sprinting down any hills.. So, I'll have a better go at max rpm's soon,
    but for now, my commute average was 95rpm and the max was 186rpm...
    All I need to do is get it to 204 and that will verify my cadence 'counting' method.. although that was on the GT SS..

    hippy


  5. Quoted message said:

    Around 90rpm is a good start. Lower cadence generally means more
    strain on the knees because you're pushing too big of a gear (or you're
    climbing, which is the same thing - painful :-) ). Higher cadence is
    good if you can do it without bobbing your butt up and down all over the
    place.

    I was once told that if your legs hurt then you are pushng too high a gear.
    If your lungs hurt you are spinning in too low a gear, and if both your
    lungs and legs hurt, you are in the right gear :-)

    Dave

  6. hippy said:

    the max was 186rpm...
    hippy

    jeeeezzzzussss! 186

    im suspecting my saddle height on the commuter isnt right cos I get the bobbing [censored] like yuou mentioned when spinning real fast

    Russ at Spoken gave me a tip re technique to avoid the 'figure 8' my right knee was doing crazily (thanks to Tony for pointing that one out "hey; look at flashing light on the video..." )
    which was to ' from the hips' (not shoot).
    Basically i found that if i rock my pelvis/hips back a tad and spin it really smooths things out nicely. makes me look like a 'proper' cyclist in all them shop window reflections too 😄

  7. [quote="Quoted message"]

    Dave@fnq said:


    Around 90rpm is a good start. Lower cadence generally means more
    strain on the knees because you're pushing too big of a gear (or you're
    climbing, which is the same thing - painful :-) ). Higher cadence is
    good if you can do it without bobbing your butt up and down all over the
    place.

    I was once told that if your legs hurt then you are pushng too high a gear.
    If your lungs hurt you are spinning in too low a gear, and if both your
    lungs and legs hurt, you are in the right gear :-)



    I've heard the same saying except:
    "if both your legs and lungs hurt, you are not fit enough" or similar..

    hippy

  8. [quote="Quoted message"]

    flyingdutch said:


    jeeeezzzzussss! 186



    I wont be happy until I hit at least 204 again...

    Quoted message said:

    im suspecting my saddle height on the commuter isnt right cos I get the >bobbing [censored] like yuou mentioned when spinning real fast



    It's also a matter of technique. You might have the right saddle height
    but just aren't used to spinning so fast. I'm not making any claims to
    being smooth myself but that's a definate possibility..

    hippy

  9. [quote="hippy"]>

    flyingdutch said:


    Quoted message said:

    jeeeezzzzussss! 186

    I wont be happy until I hit at least 204 again...

    Quoted message said:

    im suspecting my saddle height on the commuter isnt right cos I get the >bobbing [censored] like yuou mentioned when spinning real fast

    It's also a matter of technique. You might have the right saddle height
    but just aren't used to spinning so fast. I'm not making any claims to
    being smooth myself but that's a definate possibility..

    hippy


    so what constitutes 'good technique' ?
    Russ's tip opened my eyes a bit to what certainly feels a darned side smoother but I have heard so many conflicting theories on foot angle, 'ankling', flatspots, push up down, etc

    what's right? i guess trackies know more re this stuff?

  10. Quoted message said:

    flyingdutch
    so what constitutes 'good technique' ?

    I wish I knew! 🙂
    Like I said, I'm not claiming to 'have' a good technique, but I've pedaled
    fast for long enough to be able to get high(ish?) leg speed I guess without
    hammering my backside on the seat..
    I guess it's just a matter of 'muscle memory', where your legs have done
    the same thing for ages and every now and then you add a little speed
    until eventually you can spin fast on command?

    Quoted message said:

    Russ's tip opened my eyes a bit to what certainly feels a darned side >smoother but I have heard so many conflicting theories on foot >angle, 'ankling', flatspots, push up down, etc

    Well, no wonder you can't pedal smooth.. you've got all those theories
    rattling around in your head!! 😄

    I remember reading about ankling years ago and probably trying it. I think
    it's been canned. I've never thought about foot angles other than when
    reading about pedaling theory in books.
    I'll tell you the theory that I've probably used the most. The most powerful
    part of the stroke is the down pedal (1-5 o'clock) so don't skimp here. For
    the flat spot at the bottom of the pedal's rotation you are supposed to
    keep your foot flat and drag it back, just like you are wiping a dog turd
    from the bottom of your shoe. The top flat spot is the same but you'd
    be pushing your foot forward.
    Perhaps on each ride, concentrate on this for a minute or two and then
    forget it. It all goes out the window at speed anyway..
    I'm not even sure that I actually use this is normal riding, it's just that
    sometimes I think about it and do it consciously.. it may or may not help?

    Quoted message said:

    what's right? i guess trackies know more re this stuff?

    I'm not really a trackie.. yet.. 🙂
    There's certainly no pedaling theory at my level.

    hippy

  11. "hippy" wrote <snip>

    Quoted message said:

    Speaking of cadence, I just fitted my first cadence measuring device
    in the form of a Polar sensor.. <snip>

    Good luck - I've got a Polar XTrainer plus and the cadence unit is next to
    useless. It rarely picks up the signal and has been back to Polar twice
    now. I know a few people who have said the same. I've given up. Might try
    a Cyclosports HAC4 like Lance. Free altitude data as well (if you call
    anything bundled into $500 package free).

  12. John Green said:

    So what should I aim for to be beneficial?

    As high as you can comfortably manage.
    The higher the cadence, the more flywheel effect you get and the less
    work (small hills only {:-).

    Knees wise, low cadence can cripple you. It gets a lot of tourers.
    Usually 60 is minimum.

  13. my cycling literature says anything under 80 rpm cadence is "rubbish
    training", assuming you are riding for sport/fitness as opposed to commuting
    or getting from A to B. I also read that 85 rpm is about the minimum
    acceptable sport/fitness riding cadence (including seated climbing) and at
    over >100-105 rpm the efficiency starts to decline i.e. for most people it
    is too much to sit on above 105 rpm for long periods..... Almost everyone
    has their "comfort zone" in 85-105 rpm range where 90-95 seems to be the
    golden middle. This is for sustained road riding not for short sprinting or
    standing - all bets seem to be off in those cases.

    "Terry Collins" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    John Green said:

    So what should I aim for to be beneficial?

    As high as you can comfortably manage.
    The higher the cadence, the more flywheel effect you get and the less
    work (small hills only {:-).

    Knees wise, low cadence can cripple you. It gets a lot of tourers.
    Usually 60 is minimum.

  14. Yuri Budilov said:


    my cycling literature says anything under 80 rpm cadence is "rubbish
    training",

    So you are saying that you know the OP isn't a member of Joe Public, but
    one of those "racing types".

  15. John Green said:

    Can someone explain Cadence to me.

    I know it means RPM that you are pedalling, but if you are in a low gear
    your Cadence will be high, and if you are in a high gear, it will be lower.

    So what should I aim for to be beneficial?

    You should aim for high Cadence in lower gears, its alot better for
    your knees.

    --
    Please excuse my spelling as I suffer from agraphia. See
    http://dformosa.zeta.org.au/~dformosa/Spelling.html to find out more.
    Free the Memes.

  16. "Terry Collins" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Yuri Budilov said:


    my cycling literature says anything under 80 rpm cadence is "rubbish
    training",

    So you are saying that you know the OP isn't a member of Joe Public, but
    one of those "racing types".

    No.. he was quoting his cycling literature, which is
    obviously geared towards competitive cyclists..

    Strength "training" is done quite a bit lower than
    80rpm but, as Yuri pointed out, staying above 80rpm
    is the suggestion for sustained road riding..

    hippy

  17. hippy said:


    "Terry Collins" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Yuri Budilov said:


    my cycling literature says anything under 80 rpm cadence is "rubbish
    training",

    So you are saying that you know the OP isn't a member of Joe Public, but
    one of those "racing types".

    No.. he was quoting his cycling literature, which is
    obviously geared towards competitive cyclists..

    Strength "training" is done quite a bit lower than
    80rpm but, as Yuri pointed out, staying above 80rpm
    is the suggestion for sustained road riding..

    Okay, the point I am making is that I have nothing to guide me that 80
    rpm should be the suggestion to make.

    If the OP had said "I want to race", then it would be well to advise him
    that getting his cadence up to 80 rpm is best if he is serious.

    On the other hand, if the OP is a member of Joe Public who has just
    heard about "cadence" and wondered what it meant, then I my advice is
    cadence 101 to get them to start spinning a little bit, rather than
    pushing. Most Joe Public can manage a cadence of 60 with a little bit of
    thought. I have met a few people who would find a cadence of 80 very
    hard.

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