Cable Lugs

Gags said:

I mentioned in a previous post that I scored a Cecil Walker 853 Reynolds
frame that has some rust on it and I am going to get it repainted.
Basically, the rust is around the two cable lugs on the top tube that are
for the rear brake cable (one front, one rear). They are going to have to
be removed from the frame and replaced and so I am after some advice.

I was initially thinking of having no lugs at all but now I am considering
getting them replace with the type of lugs used to route hydro
cables.....these are basically a cradle that you can then slip a small cable
tie into. I would then run a brake cable that has an outer sheath along the
entire length of the cable. I see the advantage of this being that it would
reduce the amount of water that could get in the cable and so I wouldn't
have to clean the cable as often.

Is there any reason that brake cables are run with the bare section of cable
between the lugs on the top tube or is it purely a convenience/historical
thing?? I know that all of the weight weenies are currently taking deep
breaths at the thought of that extra 45cm or so of cable outer so I might
have to get the painter to put on an extra thin layer of paint to make up
the difference!!

So what's in this year......full length cable outers or normal lugs with
exposed section???

I wait with bated breath!!!

Gags

My steel tourer from 1984 runs the rear brake along the top of the top tube through 2 lugs. Has, and always has had, outer complete, unbroken from the lever to the caliper.

SteveA

Gags said:

<snipped for brevity>

Quoted message said:

Is there any reason that brake cables are run with the bare section of cable
between the lugs on the top tube or is it purely a convenience/historical
thing?? I know that all of the weight weenies are currently taking deep
breaths at the thought of that extra 45cm or so of cable outer so I might
have to get the painter to put on an extra thin layer of paint to make up
the difference!!

My understanding was that less cable sheath = less total cable drag which
improves shifting and reduces braking effort.
This was the marketing spiel behind a few Teflon cable sheath/liner kits.

Sheldon may help.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cables.html

Quoted message said:

So what's in this year......full length cable outers or normal lugs with
exposed section???

I wait with bated breath!!!

Gags

Skewer

only disadvantage i can see to this is (and its a 'maybe'😉 th weight of said cable housing sagging down on cable? Nah, that sounds silly now i have read that...
All tourers (well good ones) inc my burgundy Bianchi tourer and mtbs have em along the top, dont they?

why not dril l2 holes in the toptube and go internal? 😄

The other option if you're worried about the risk of cable friction or sag on the cable for those 'otherwise naked' cable runs would be something like this:

sram.comfullmetaljacketOpen ↗

Officially designed for cable disc use, but i'm sure it could meet your needs... Of course you wouldn't want to ding the housing, which might make it a high worry-factor item.

flyingdutch said:

why not drill 2 holes in the toptube and go internal? 😄

trade cable rust for frame rust?

Gags said:

Basically, the rust is around the two cable lugs on the
top tube that are for the rear brake cable (one front, one rear).
They are going to have to be removed from the frame and
replaced and so I am after some advice.

Must be some impressive rust to trash the braze-ons. Be careful that it hasn't destroyed the top tube as well, as 853 top tubes are usually only 0.4mm thick. Replacing the top tube is a fairly big job.

Quoted message said:

I was initially thinking of having no lugs at all but now I am
considering getting them replace with the type of lugs used
to route hydro cables.....these are basically a cradle that you
can then slip a small cable tie into.

There are braze-ons that simply encircle the cable, so you can run a full length of cable outer along the top tube. Have a look at http://www.framebuilding.com/Braze-ons.htm for some options.

No matter what you do, these braze-ons attract rust. One way to minimise this is to put them on the top of the tube, so that they don't collect so much sweat.

I use a pair of the ART110 braze-ons at about the 8-o'clock position on the tube. That's probably very similar to what your frame has now. I find that despite the potential for rust that having the braze-ons here introduces, it's a convenient spot for them. I don't like having the cable on top of the tube, as I often rest my ample bottom on the top tube at traffic lights. Having them at the 8-o'clock position puts the cable out of the way.

I'd recommend against running the cable outer along the top tube. All that cable outer just traps sweat against the top tube, which may make it rust quicker. In addition, it'll increase the force needed for the rear brake.

Best of luck,

Suzy