Building a Pure Climbing Bike

WattsAMatta said:

I've been out of the competitive loop since the mid '80s, so please give a little extra info/links if you think that your recommendations might be a bit obscure to me. All input is welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Bryan

So will you be using this bike to get down the hill, too?

Get down the hill? Yes.
Race down the hill? No.

-- Bryan

WattsAMatta said:

Get down the hill? Yes.
Race down the hill? No.

-- Bryan

If you're looking for some kind of secret weapon for the war against gravity, I'm afraid they don't exist anymore.

Start with any lightweight frame that fits you and equip it in a way that is consistent with your lusts and your pocketbook. Bike shops are more than happy to get you started.

The only advice I can offer from personal experience is to consider a compact (50-34 or 50-36) crank if you think you'll need a ratio lower than 39/23.

The best climbing I ever did was on a 22-lb bike with a 42/21 and 32-spoke tubular wheels. That was 25 lbs and 25 years ago.

i just bought a scott cr1. Its light, its stiff, its good value - if was going to build a pure climber I would hang all the gear off this frame. Its a bullit up hills, just wants to go. Position is critical though for getting full power out when climbing in the saddle!

Honker said:

i just bought a scott cr1.

I sure wouldn't pass on one of those. Plenty light and stiff. Make mine an XL with a 13 cm stem.

Heres a cheapass way to make it light.

Use one shifter-brake lever unit for the right hand side. Use a front brake only, rear derailleur only setup. Use a 9 speed 11-32 cassete on the rear and 50 or 48 single ring on the front. A 48-32 is a tiny gear, but you may want to go lower if you spin up very steep hills.

This way you ditch the left shifter unit, a brake and two sets of cables and a chainring. Close to a kilo could dissapear.

WattsAMatta said:

Here's the scoop...
I haven't raced for over 20 years, but I've been training hard for the year and a half and I want to do some races. I live in the mountains (7000+ feet), so I'm hoping to do a few hill climb TTs this season. I've been thinking that it might be a good idea to build up a pure climbing bike. I'm looking for a 'bang for the buck' configuration rather than spend an extra thousand to shave a few hundred grams. I haven't ruled out single-speed. I weigh about 150 pounds. I'd like to have a power tap on the bike. I ride clinchers now, but I rode sew-ups back in the day, and would consider them if there would be an advantage. I've been out of the competitive loop since the mid '80s, so please give a little extra info/links if you think that your recommendations might be a bit obscure to me. All input is welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Bryan

oldbobcat said:

If you're looking for some kind of secret weapon for the war against gravity, I'm afraid they don't exist anymore.

Start with any lightweight frame that fits you and equip it in a way that is consistent with your lusts and your pocketbook. Bike shops are more than happy to get you started.

The only advice I can offer from personal experience is to consider a compact (50-34 or 50-36) crank if you think you'll need a ratio lower than 39/23.

The best climbing I ever did was on a 22-lb bike with a 42/21 and 32-spoke tubular wheels. That was 25 lbs and 25 years ago.

"The best climbing I ever did was on a 22-lb bike with a 42/21 and 32-spoke tubular wheels. It was 25 lbs and 25 years ago."

Haha that's what I do now, except mine weighs 25 lbs w/o bottles, 28 with. And to think, people complain about bike weight?

I have been riding a Halfords Hybrid up hills for the past year, god only knows what that weighs. Anyway it has made me much fitter and now I really apprecite my new roadie 😄

Travis44 said:

Haha that's what I do now, except mine weighs 25 lbs w/o bottles, 28 with. And to think, people complain about bike weight?

And I once owned a 61cm Charles Roberts that weighed 20.5 with a Brooks saddle. Think I'll start using tubulars again.