building a Fireman's Cruzer

Quoted message said:

Just purchased a 26" Fireman's Texas Cruzer frame/fork and am looking
for tips and advice on building this thing out. I already have one
Fireman's Cruzer that I bought used, as a complete bike. But I've
always wanted to build my own from scratch, with a
"money-is-ALMOST-no-object" approach. I've got kind of a working list
of parts, but have questions on some and could use some expert
guidance, specifically around wheels, brakes, and cranks.

This bike will be used 95% of the time for simply cruising around town,
and the other 5% for stupid jumps I have no business trying at this
age. I'm looking to trick it out with some nice stuff, though, just in
case.

For wheels, I'm looking at Chris King Hubs, but don't really understand
the difference between the Single Speed hubs, and the BMX hubs.
They're both about the same price, seem very similar in features. Is
one better than the other for a cruiser? I'm also looking at some
Profile hubs, as I don't think I need a cassette and can get by just
fine with just a free-wheel rear hub. Aside from quickly changing gear
ratios, and spacing allowances for chain alignment, are there other
benefits to getting a cassette type hub vs. freewheel?

I currently have Rhyno Lite Rims on my other Cruzer, but am also
looking for some suggestions on good MTB rims for a single-speed,
non-disc application. Speaking of non-disc, I have Deore brakes on my
bike, but would like some recommendations for good v-brakes and levers.

Any other tips would also be appreciated.

I had to google to see what you were talking about. That looks like a seriously
fun bike. BMX for us big kids.

Ron

An anonymous poster asked:

Quoted message said:

For wheels, I'm looking at Chris King Hubs,

You should also look at Phil Wood...they're the BEST!

Quoted message said:

but don't really understand
the difference between the Single Speed hubs, and the BMX hubs.
They're both about the same price, seem very similar in features. Is
one better than the other for a cruiser?

It is a matter of rear spacing and chainline.

BMX hubs are generally 110 mm or 120 mm spacing, for a chainline around
41-42 mm.

Singlespeed MTB hubs are generally 135 mm spacing, for chainline around
52 mm (some use 47 mm.)

Which to get would depend on the spacing of your frame.

See: http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.

Quoted message said:

I'm also looking at some
Profile hubs, as I don't think I need a cassette and can get by just
fine with just a free-wheel rear hub. Aside from quickly changing gear
ratios, and spacing allowances for chain alignment, are there other
benefits to getting a cassette type hub vs. freewheel?

Yes, there's a greater range of sprocket sizes available, everywhere
from 12 to 34 teeth.

Freewheels for standard hubs don't come any smaller than 15 teeth. Some
BMX flip flop hubs have a smaller "metric" thread on one side that will
let you use a special 14 tooth sprocket. You can't get good singlespeed
freewheels bigger than 23 as far as I know.

Sheldon "42/14" Brown
Newtonville, Massachusetts
+---------------------------------------------------+
| Time shouldn't just pass; things should happen. |
| --Harry Turtledove |
+---------------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

dire said:

For wheels, I'm looking at Chris King Hubs, but don't really understand
the difference between the Single Speed hubs, and the BMX hubs.

Provisions for a fixed gear lock ring, something ou don't need
with a bmx freewheel

I'm also looking at some Profile hubs, as

Quoted message said:

I don't think I need a cassette and can get by just fine with just a
free-wheel rear hub. Aside from quickly changing gear ratios, and
spacing allowances for chain alignment, are there other benefits to
getting a cassette type hub vs. freewheel?

Regular old screw on bmx hubs are ubiquitous and might be your best bet. I
tried finding a Shimano DX cog that's used for the cassette jobs around
here, and it's pretty rare--go with the tried and true.

Thanks for all the help guys; I really appreciate it.

I did a bunch of reading last night and was able to figure out the
spacing difference This frame definitely takes 110-120mm axles. That
all makes sense now. I have checked out the Phil hubs for and they are
definitely in the top three of my choices so far. That list includes
King, Profile, and Phil. Seems like the Profiles have quite a bit of
choice and availability as far as cogs go. If I go with them, I'll
pick up a couple of extra cogs. I don't foresee changing gear ratiors
on a regular basis, but it looks like cassette is the new standard.

I'm going back to the LBS today to start putting together a build
sheet. I'm also leaning towards Profile cranks and Evolution BB, Paul
MotoLite Brakes and compact Love levers, King headset, Profile stem,
Crupi pedals, Thompson post, WTB Pure V saddle. Not sure on bars and
grips yet. I'm going to be eating ramen noodles for a long time. :-)

Any recommendations for some excellent all-around rims?

Yeah, they're a blast to ride, and built right here in Austin. I was
tempted to get one of the new single speeds, but after I saw all the
made in china stickers on the frames, I decided it was worth the extra
$ to buy a locally hand made frame.

dire said:

I don't foresee changing gear ratiors on a regular basis,
but it looks like cassette is the new standard.

Cassette is *a* new standard, but not *the* new standards for single
geared bikes.

I like the convenience of flip/flop threaded hubs, on the other hand
changing a cassette cog is a little friendlier if you're chain whip shy.
:P

Wouldn't say one is really better than the other.

Quoted message said:

Any recommendations for some excellent all-around rims?

You mentioned Rhyno Lites in your original post. They're fantastic if
you need a strong rim, which I presume you do, since you also mentioned
getting a little air. If you think you need something lighter (you
don't), check out the Sun CR-18.
As for grips, how could you think of running anything other than Oury
on that bike?

-Vee

www.firemansbikes.com will get you there. There's some info about the
frames and complete bikes and a few photos. It's a very small
operation, so there isn't much fluff. I emailed them about some of my
questions and got a reply very quickly with a phone number so I could
chat with them. I spoke with Greg, who was very helpful and
appreciative of my business. I already feel good about buying another
fireman's frame instead of an overseas frame.

james

(PeteCresswell) said:

Googling "Fireman's Cruzer" doesn't return anything but some race results.

No web site?

Ditch the quotation marks for most Google searches, or just go to:
http://www.firemansbikes.com/

-Vee

Googling "Fireman's Cruzer" doesn't return anything but some race results.

No web site?
--
PeteCresswell

Quoted message said:

Thanks for all the help guys; I really appreciate it.

I did a bunch of reading last night and was able to figure out the
spacing difference This frame definitely takes 110-120mm axles. That
all makes sense now. I have checked out the Phil hubs for and they are
definitely in the top three of my choices so far. That list includes
King, Profile, and Phil. Seems like the Profiles have quite a bit of
choice and availability as far as cogs go. If I go with them, I'll
pick up a couple of extra cogs. I don't foresee changing gear ratiors
on a regular basis, but it looks like cassette is the new standard.

I'm going back to the LBS today to start putting together a build
sheet. I'm also leaning towards Profile cranks and Evolution BB, Paul
MotoLite Brakes and compact Love levers, King headset, Profile stem,
Crupi pedals, Thompson post, WTB Pure V saddle. Not sure on bars and
grips yet. I'm going to be eating ramen noodles for a long time. :-)

Be different - put drop handlebars on it. If not drops, then maybe a
pair of bullhorns (also called cowhorns) with reverse pull levers. In
either case, this would probably mean switching to cantilever brakes,
for which I would recommend Paul Components neo-retro brakes. You
might be able to get by with mini-v brakes if you don't have a desire
to run very wide tires.

If not drops or cowhorns, maye a nice set of north-road style bars, or
moustache bars...

Later,
Mark Muller

Quoted message said:

I did a bunch of reading last night and was able to figure out the
spacing difference This frame definitely takes 110-120mm axles.

The Fireman's Texas Cruiser uses 110mm spacing.

Quoted message said:

Seems like the Profiles have quite a bit of
choice and availability as far as cogs go. If I go with them, I'll
pick up a couple of extra cogs. I don't foresee changing gear ratiors
on a regular basis, but it looks like cassette is the new standard.

Cassettes are the latest trend, but they are not the "new standard" in
any real sense. They all use proprietary sprockets and drivers, so
when you buy one, you place a bet that your particular hub's parts are
going to remain available for as long as you want to use the bike.

To my mind, freewheel hubs are not only a better value, they are a
better choice for your application. There's no practical reason for a
big-wheeled bike like the Fireman's Texas Cruiser to use a sprocket
smaller than 16t.

Quoted message said:

I'm also leaning towards Profile cranks and Evolution BB,

I have had several quality control issues and warranty replacements on
new Profile cranks, but I have never had even one such problem with any
other manufacturer's crank. I highly recommend Primo Powerbite cranks
instead. They're much more nicely made, and from better materials. I
say this as someone who has three sets of each of those cranks on his
own bikes at this moment.

Quoted message said:

Not sure on bars and grips yet.

S&M bars are very nice and widely available. Crupi make some gorgeous
aluminum bars that have given me many years of reliable service.

My favorite grips for BMX bars are ATI Pistol Grips. Big Cheese grips,
the ones with little stars all over them, are quite good and available
in fun color combinations.

http://www.staff-bmx.com/store/grpbrend/ati-pstl_n.html
http://www.webcyclery.com/product.php?productid=16733&cat=433&page=1

Quoted message said:

I'm going to be eating ramen noodles for a long time. :-)

Well, yeah... but note that Suzue sealed bearing hubs are better than
those you are considering IMO, that a Tange Levin headset is the
functional equal of a Chris King and much prettier, and that likewise
there exist many other first class parts that don't demand the very
highest prices.

Quoted message said:

Any recommendations for some excellent all-around rims?

Consider the Velocity Deep-V MTB. It uses a much taller, wider
extrusion than the road Deep-V. It weighs about the same as a Rhyno
Lite, but makes for a stronger wheel overall. If you like the unusual
look of it (and I do), then it's a great choice.

Chalo Colina

Quoted message said:

I spoke with Greg, who was very helpful and
appreciative of my business. I already feel good about buying another
fireman's frame instead of an overseas frame.

Greg Mundy is a very nice guy and definitely a "keeper of the faith" as
far as 26" wheel cruisers go. He's one of my hometown buddies. His
shop was one of my regular hangouts when I lived in Austin, and I made
him and his mechanics a few one-of-a-kind CNC milled parts.

Chalo Colina

"RonSonic" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I had to google to see what you were talking about. That looks like a
seriously
fun bike. BMX for us big kids.

Ron

I think it's pretty cool, too. I'm pretty short and I already have a 16"
framed MTB that weighs less than 20 pounds. What would be the difference
between that and the Cruzer?

Dear James & list:

I have been racing a 26" cruiser this last year, getting more than a
little air. It's not a Fireman, which is basically a copy of the SE
"OM Flyer" - it's a frame I built myself. I like profiles, 180mm, and
am running a Ti spindle on mine, which cuts about 4 oz. for an extra
$40. 36/16 is pretty good all-round gearing, though I went to 40/1`6
last week for a race on a downhill track. Profile makes a CNC machined
110mm spider for their cranks that allows you to use a whole universe
of chainrings.

I've been running WTB laserbeams on Shimano HF hubs, with WTB
Nanoraptors. The lazerbeams stayed round through a two-year Dirt Rag
test of the bike (the tester hung onto it for a while extra, and rode
it VERY hard). The Nanoraptors grip as well as any BMX tire you can
buy, plus they roll good on the street.

The Rhyno Lites are a good choice on a Crupi or Profile hub. I like
the cassette system actually, having dirtied myself many times doing
last minute gear changes.

I use a Primo Coffin stem and Profile 2" rise bars - although I've used
cut down Renthal motocross bars as well. You don't want too much rise
on the bars.

I use the odyssey A Brake, it's a good, stiff, cheap unit but it
corrodes internally and then you have to toss it. Shimano DX is good,
the Pauls look good and have a lot of adjustment - you'll need that if
you move from wide to skinny rims.

Buy a good chain. Sedis/SRAM is good and doesn't stretch like KMC or
some other brands.

Get a good seatpost. Thomson is the best and has been holding up
pretty good in BMX use. Kalloy Uno is a good cheap post.

You can take a look at my 26 at my website,
www dot thursdaybicycles dot com

good luck

jn

"Thursday"

Quoted message said:

I have been racing a 26" cruiser this last year, getting more than a
little air. It's not a Fireman, which is basically a copy of the SE
"OM Flyer" - it's a frame I built myself. I like profiles, 180mm, and
am running a Ti spindle on mine, which cuts about 4 oz. for an extra
$40.

Titanium BB spindle, a component known for breaking even on road
applications, on something that gets used for more than a little air?

Wouldn't want to be your medical insurer.

Jasper