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Breaking Spokes

Started by Roger Zoul · · Last activity · 85 posts · 7,201 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
29 May 2004
Last activity
12 July 2004
Original author
Roger Zoul
Posts
85
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  1. Bob Mc B said:
    Quoted message said:

    How did you assess the abilities of these shops and their
    understanding of wheelbuilding and what causes spoke
    failures? Just pleasantly talking to a person does not
    reveal their ability. Certain questions need to be
    answered to discover that.

    Quoted message said:

    Funny you should ask. In the New Hampshire Seacoast area
    I asked riders for recommendations for a good shop. I
    went to three shops to explain my situation with breaking
    rear wheels spokes and asked for their recommendations. I
    also asked them "if I didn't have the wheel built at
    their shop, whom I should get to build it?" Two of the
    shops recommended the third so I had the wheel built at
    that shop.

    That sounds odd. But as I said, you could build your own and
    be better off in two ways. You can build wheels as well and
    better than most shops and you would become independent of
    them for repairs, much like bicycle riders who can fix their
    own flat tires.

    tinyurl.com2zxeh

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

  2. In article <[email hidden]>, "ZeeExSixAre"

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    The owner of the LBS told me today that she thinks I ride
    up hills in

    She? That was the problem. Girls don't know bikes!

    Brace yourself.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    too high a gear, and doing so puts a lot of stress on the
    rear wheel.

    Cranking in the lower gears puts MORE torque on the wheel,
    not less.


    At the same speed and vehicle weight is there going to be a
    torque difference on the rear wheel as a result of using
    different gears? I doubt it. There will be a difference on
    the pedals, but the wheel?

    Tom Gibb <[email hidden]

  3. Quoted message said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,
    "ZeeExSixAre" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    The owner of the LBS told me today that she thinks I
    ride up hills in

    She? That was the problem. Girls don't know bikes!

    Brace yourself.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    too high a gear, and doing so puts a lot of stress on
    the rear wheel.

    Cranking in the lower gears puts MORE torque on the
    wheel, not less.


    At the same speed and vehicle weight is there going to be
    a torque difference on the rear wheel as a result of using
    different gears? I doubt it. There will be a difference on
    the pedals, but the wheel?

    The torque for a given slope (and friction...) depends only
    on the speed at a given instant. In a lower gear, there is
    generally a larger variability in the speed over a single
    crank rotation, so the peak torque is higher. If you pedaled
    perfectly smoothly, there would be no difference in torque
    on the rear wheel.

    --
    Benjamin Lewis

    Gravity brings me down.

  4. Tom Gibb said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    The owner of the LBS told me today that she thinks I
    ride up hills in

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    too high a gear, and doing so puts a lot of stress on
    the rear wheel.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Cranking in the lower gears puts MORE torque on the
    wheel, not less.

    Quoted message said:

    At the same speed and vehicle weight is there going to be
    a torque difference on the rear wheel as a result of using
    different gears? I doubt it. There will be a difference on
    the pedals, but the wheel?

    The higher the gear, the smoother the torque although there
    probably isn't a significant difference. Just the same,
    torque is not a major load for spokes, the effect being
    distributed mostly among all the right side spokes (pushing
    and pulling). For a 36-spoke wheel that is 18 spokes. You
    can see the magnitude of tension change in "the Bicycle
    Wheel" and notice that it is insignificant with respect to
    tension cycles caused by supporting the rider.

    The upshot is that the bicycle shop is ill informed
    about wheels.

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

  5. Benjamin Lewis said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > too high a gear, and doing so puts a lot of stress on
    > the rear wheel.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Cranking in the lower gears puts MORE torque on the
    wheel, not less.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    At the same speed and vehicle weight is there going to be
    a torque difference on the rear wheel as a result of
    using different gears? I doubt it. There will be a
    difference on the pedals, but the wheel?

    Quoted message said:

    The torque for a given slope (and friction...) depends
    only on the speed at a given instant. In a lower gear,
    there is generally a larger variability in the speed over
    a single crank rotation, so the peak torque is higher. If
    you pedaled perfectly smoothly, there would be no
    difference in torque on the rear wheel.

    Well stated. That is what I was trying to articulate.
    Besides that, torque is essentially the same whether riding
    slowly or faster on a hill with speeds below about 15mph
    where wind drag is unimportant. A rider uses more power (a
    higher rate) but torque remains the same.

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

  6. ZeeExSixAre said:
    Quoted message said:

    The owner of the LBS told me today that she thinks I ride
    up hills in

    She? That was the problem. Girls don't know bikes!

    Quoted message said:

    too high a gear, and doing so puts a lot of stress on the
    rear wheel.

    Cranking in the lower gears puts MORE torque on the wheel,
    not less.

    Despite the inane joke, he's right about lower gear putting
    more torque on the wheel.

    --

    David L. Johnson

    __o | When you are up to your ass in alligators, it's
    hard to remember _`\(,_ | that your initial objective was
    to drain the swamp. -- LBJ (_)/ (_) |

  7. TBGibb said:

    At the same speed and vehicle weight is there going to be
    a torque difference on the rear wheel as a result of using
    different gears? I doubt it. There will be a difference on
    the pedals, but the wheel?

    At the same speed, obviously the torque would be the same,
    seeing as how that is what is maintaining the speed. But a
    given rider can put more torque on the wheel in a lower gear
    than in a higher gear.

    --

    David L. Johnson

    __o | A mathematician is a machine for turning coffee
    into theorems. _`\(,_ | -- Paul Erdos (_)/ (_) |

  8. Quoted message said:
    Roger Zoul said:

    Thinking back on it, I supposed that the second spoke
    popping could have been the result of the two spills I had
    on Saturday, but given the fact that the lady apparently
    (and I see this only because I saw lateral movement and
    she saw radial movement while spinning the wheel -- which
    resulted in her working on it some more) did not do a good
    job truing the wheel, I'm not so certain.

    That should not compromise spoke life although it might
    damage the rim so that it cannot be made as true as a new
    one, or maybe not at all if it was collapsed, but that
    should not affect spoke life. Spoke life is shortened by
    not stress relieving and from kinks caused by foreign
    objects against them to cause kinks.

    it's not the just kink, it's the stress riser caused by a
    sharp object damaging the surface on impact. if just a kink
    was sufficient, every crossed spoke would fail, as would
    every "corrected line" spoke that you advocate.

    Quoted message said:

    Even smooth bends have practically no effect on spoke
    life. Replacement spokes must often be bent to insert them
    into the hub. The main thing is to stress relieve them
    after truing. That's what assures durability for high
    quality spokes.

    interesting qualification - that high quality spokes assure
    durability. can it therefore be inferred that you don't feel
    confident that "stress relief" has the same magical
    properties of infinite fatigue life on poor quality spokes?
    if so, what would be the differentiator?

    it's interesting how you're so very careful with your
    claims; when challenged you fall back on your personal use
    of just one brand of top quality spoke, as if it were proof
    across the whole mechanical/materials spectrum.

    Quoted message said:


    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

  9. <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Bob Mc B said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Not true. I ruined two 36 spoke rims by riding them
    > home.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    You did? Details please.

    Quoted message said:

    Yes.

    Yes what?

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

    You edited the message wrong. It went like this:

    But how do you "ruin" the rim? Did it become impossible to

    Quoted message said:

    true after?


    Yes.

  10. <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Bob Mc B said:
    Quoted message said:

    How did you assess the abilities of these shops and
    their understanding of wheelbuilding and what causes
    spoke failures? Just pleasantly talking to a person
    does not reveal their ability. Certain questions need
    to be answered to discover that.

    Quoted message said:

    Funny you should ask. In the New Hampshire Seacoast area
    I asked riders for recommendations for a good shop. I
    went to three shops to explain my situation with
    breaking rear wheels spokes and asked for their
    recommendations. I also asked them "if I didn't have the
    wheel built at their shop, whom I should get to build
    it?" Two of the shops recommended the third so I had the
    wheel built at that shop.

    That sounds odd. But as I said, you could build your own
    and be better off in two ways. You can build wheels as
    well and better than most shops and you would become
    independent of them for repairs, much like bicycle riders
    who can fix their own flat tires.

    tinyurl.com2zxeh

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

    Of course I could learn to build a great wheel, but I would
    rather spend my free time riding and I think that you missed
    my major point. I tried really hard, many times, to purchase
    a reliable hand built 36 spoke rear wheel. The longest any
    of them lasted was under 500 miles! I purchased a "wheel in
    a box" and have had wonderful results for over 1500 miles.
    The advice that is constantly voiced in this group is that
    hand built wheels are better, but there are at least two
    heavy riders who have had great results with the Mavic
    Ksyrium Elite rear wheels.

  11. Old Crow or was it Wild Turkey said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Thinking back on it, I supposed that the second spoke
    popping could have been the result of the two spills I
    had on Saturday, but given the fact that the lady
    apparently (and I see this only because I saw lateral
    movement and she saw radial movement while spinning the
    wheel -- which resulted in her working on it some more)
    did not do a good job truing the wheel, I'm not so
    certain.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    That should not compromise spoke life although it might
    damage the rim so that it cannot be made as true as a new
    one, or maybe not at all if it was collapsed, but that
    should not affect spoke life. Spoke life is shortened by
    not stress relieving and from kinks caused by foreign
    objects against them to cause kinks.

    Quoted message said:

    It's not the just kink, it's the stress riser caused by a
    sharp object damaging the surface on impact. If just a
    kink was sufficient, every crossed spoke would fail, as
    would every "corrected line" spoke that you advocate.

    Explain how that would be so. There needn't be any plastic
    flow or gouging in a kink to cause failure. My reference to
    a kink is one induced by, for instance, a wheel collapse in
    which a spoke is doubled back on itself or one in which the
    wheel fell on an unoccupied pedal and got snagged by a
    projecting part in a crash. These are sharp bends in the
    middle of a spoke. Ones that cannot be straightened by
    anything but a hammer and smooth surface to fatten the kink,
    and even then it is doubtful to be durable. In effect an
    unsupported "elbow".

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Even smooth bends have practically no effect on spoke
    life. Replacement spokes must often be bent to insert
    them into the hub. The main thing is to stress relieve
    them after truing. That's what assures durability for
    high quality spokes.

    Quoted message said:

    Interesting qualification - that high quality spokes
    assure durability. Can it therefore be inferred that you
    don't feel confident that "stress relief" has the same
    magical properties of infinite fatigue life on poor
    quality spokes? If so, what would be the differentiator?

    I see you didn't live in the days of Stella and Robergel
    spokes from which I discovered the benefits of stress
    relieving. These spokes broke after such short duty that a
    large statistical trend was discernable by stress
    relieving although that did not stop spoke failures
    entirely. It was with the advent of DT spokes that truly
    durable spokes became available. Now there are several
    brands that work well.

    As I have described here often, spoke wire must be ductile
    enough to withstand cold forming yet retain a sufficiently
    high yield strength to resist fatigue failures at normal
    spoke loadings. This had not been so before DT spokes so
    there is where you should look for the answer. Redaelli,
    Berg, and Prym spokes also did not survive long even with
    stress relieving although it extended their service life.

    Quoted message said:

    It's interesting how you're so very careful with your
    claims; when challenged you fall back on your personal use
    of just one brand of top quality spoke, as if it were
    proof across the whole mechanical/materials spectrum.

    You create these characterizations of thin air to your
    liking. Every so often someone with your attitude shows up
    here on wreck.bike to attack what has been discovered about
    bicycle parts apparently trying to defend myth and lore from
    days gone by. I can't see any other goal but then you never
    said what you believe is the cause of failures. Instead of
    beating around the bush and insinuating and alluding to some
    agenda, how about stating what it is you believe is
    occurring.

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

  12. Quoted message said:

    You edited the message wrong. It went like this:

    Quoted message said:

    But how do you "ruin" the rim? Did it become impossible
    to true after?


    Yes.

    OK, this is making less and less sense. I've had to ride
    home on broken spokes more than 50 miles on occasion, and
    over 10 miles on several occasions- happily not in years.
    I've never ruined a rim by riding on it with a broken spoke-
    and I've weighed over 195 lbs since I was a sophomore in
    high school back in 1974. I built my first wheels in 1978
    and finally retired those in 1994. I don't recall any
    spoke breakages in those wheels, but I have had spokes
    break in OEM prebuilt wheels and in one wheel I built
    using cheap Asahi spokes; otherwise I find 32 spoke wheels
    quite adequate.

    When you say the rim was "not truable," by whom was it
    not truable?

    Basically it sounds like your wheels have been built up by
    people who didn't know what they were doing- how to properly
    tension the spokes, remove spoke windup and stress relieve
    them to prevent breakage. A wheel should go 50,000 miles at
    least without breaking a spoke, IMHO. This is not hard to
    achieve once the principles and procedures of good wheel
    building are known.

  13. Quoted message said:
    Old Crow or was it Wild Turkey said:
    Quoted message said:

    >Thinking back on it, I supposed that the second spoke
    >popping could have been the result of the two spills I
    >had on Saturday, but given the fact that the lady
    >apparently (and I see this only because I saw lateral
    >movement and she saw radial movement while spinning the
    >wheel -- which resulted in her working on it some more)
    >did not do a good job truing the wheel, I'm not so
    >certain.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    That should not compromise spoke life although it might
    damage the rim so that it cannot be made as true as a new
    one, or maybe not at all if it was collapsed, but that
    should not affect spoke life. Spoke life is shortened by
    not stress relieving and from kinks caused by foreign
    objects against them to cause kinks.

    Quoted message said:

    It's not the just kink, it's the stress riser caused by a
    sharp object damaging the surface on impact. If just a
    kink was sufficient, every crossed spoke would fail, as
    would every "corrected line" spoke that you advocate.

    Explain how that would be so. There needn't be any plastic
    flow or gouging in a kink to cause failure.

    by definition, for the material to take any permanent set,
    there has to be plastic deformation. whether that be caused
    by bending or something sharper like chain gouge or pedal
    strike is open to circumstance.

    Quoted message said:

    My reference to a kink is one induced by, for instance, a
    wheel collapse in which a spoke is doubled back on itself
    or one in which the wheel fell on an unoccupied pedal and
    got snagged by a projecting part in a crash. These are
    sharp bends in the middle of a spoke. Ones that cannot be
    straightened by anything but a hammer and smooth surface
    to fatten the kink, and even then it is doubtful to be
    durable. In effect an unsupported "elbow".

    understood, but there are two types of "sharp" bend. the
    bending that has a comparatively large radius like a
    straightened paper clip, or the minor bend which has a very
    small radius like a chain gouge. the smaller the radius, the
    greater the stress concentration & the greater fatigue
    propensity. the large radius bend induces similar effects in
    the material to "correcting the line".

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Even smooth bends have practically no effect on spoke
    life. Replacement spokes must often be bent to insert
    them into the hub. The main thing is to stress relieve
    them after truing. That's what assures durability for
    high quality spokes.

    Quoted message said:

    Interesting qualification - that high quality spokes
    assure durability. Can it therefore be inferred that you
    don't feel confident that "stress relief" has the same
    magical properties of infinite fatigue life on poor
    quality spokes? If so, what would be the differentiator?

    I see you didn't live in the days of Stella and Robergel
    spokes from which I discovered the benefits of stress
    relieving.

    but i'm not too old to still find wheels with these spokes
    at swap meets.

    Quoted message said:

    These spokes broke after such short duty that a large
    statistical trend was discernable by stress relieving
    although that did not stop spoke failures entirely. It
    was with the advent of DT spokes that truly durable
    spokes became available. Now there are several brands
    that work well.

    yes, there are now several brands that work well. but their
    long life is not the product of "stress relief"; it's the
    fact that in the 70's, it became economic to mass produce
    vacuum degassed steels. ultra-clean materials like this are
    substantially more fatigue resistant because this process
    virtually eliminates inclusions, thereby removing a
    significant source of fatigue initiation.

    a traditional steel for example may have half the fatigue
    limit in the transverse axis of a rolled sheet compared to
    its longitudinal axis. the same alloy composition, but
    vacuum degassed, may have very similar fatigue limits in
    both orientations. when first seen, the observation of this
    effect sparked a hunt for explanation. electron microscopy
    subsequently confirmed fatigue initiation at tiny inclusions
    previously thought to be insignificantly small.

    Quoted message said:


    As I have described here often, spoke wire must be ductile
    enough to withstand cold forming yet retain a sufficiently
    high yield strength to resist fatigue failures at normal
    spoke loadings. This had not been so before DT spokes so
    there is where you should look for the answer. Redaelli,
    Berg, and Prym spokes also did not survive long even with
    stress relieving although it extended their service life.

    Quoted message said:

    It's interesting how you're so very careful with your
    claims; when challenged you fall back on your personal use
    of just one brand of top quality spoke, as if it were
    proof across the whole mechanical/materials spectrum.

    You create these characterizations of thin air to your
    liking. Every so often someone with your attitude shows up
    here on wreck.bike to attack what has been discovered
    about bicycle parts apparently trying to defend myth and
    lore from days gone by. I can't see any other goal but
    then you never said what you believe is the cause of
    failures. Instead of beating around the bush and
    insinuating and alluding to some agenda, how about stating
    what it is you believe is occurring.

    what causes failures is well known. it's what alleviates
    them that seems to be the issue here. all that "stress
    relief" achieves is a wheel that is fully bedded in before
    riding. spokes do not therefore loosen and others do not
    therefore carry disproportionate load. in that respect, the
    practice referred to as "stress relief" is a good thing, and
    thoroughly to be commended. but the business of fatigue
    mitigation itself is achieved in the spoke manufacturers
    factory, not the wheel builders bench.

    the explanation of "local yielding" you've presented as
    theory on how to eliminate fatigue is unfortunately built on
    some gross misconceptions. you assert that the steel in
    spokes exhibits the same properties as mild steel, i.e. the
    exhibition of yield and deformation without work hardening
    as a method of reducing residual stress. reality is,
    stainless steel spoke wires /do/ work harden immediately
    from yield, as the real-life spoke stress/strain graphs in
    the back of your book show. "stress relief" therefore has
    the ability to not only continue increasing the dislocation
    density of the material [which /increases/ lattice stresses]
    at any point where it does yield, [/if/ it yields, and
    that's conjecture], but to also activate slip bands and
    initiate cumulative damage effects.

    the closest analogy to your explanation is something called
    "coaxing" where a component is progressively loaded and
    fatigue limits improved, but unfortunately, this effect is
    only present in materials that exhibit strain aging.
    stainless steel is not one of them.

    so, you want to know my agenda? update your book and get rid
    of the glaring materials theory errors! and please include
    the differential spoke tension formula for dished wheels
    while you're at it.

    Quoted message said:


    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

  14. [email hidden] wrote:
    :: Roger Zoul writes:
    ::
    ::::: I don't know anything about Rolf but I'm getting a
    ::::: notion that they are somehow designed for speed.
    ::
    :::: Not really. They are designed to make you think of
    :::: speed, the difference being only measurable with a stop
    :::: watch at maximum effort. They aren't lighter nor are
    :::: they pleasant to ride in winds.
    ::
    ::: Why would they not be pleasant to ride in winds? Is
    ::: there some design feature?.
    ::
    :: If you have not ridden in strong winds you probably
    :: cannot imagine how they affect steering. It is like
    :: someone putting their hand on the end of your bars and
    :: pushing a bit one way or the other. Strong winds, even
    :: from behind, are turbulent and have cross components to
    :: the direction of travel. Of course direct cross winds are
    :: worse. The point is that aero wheels have far larger
    :: surfaces for the wind to attack than conventional wheels.

    That makes perfect sense....I guess what I really didn't
    realize is that there was something different about the
    wheels on this bike. Once again, I'm a bicycling noob, here.
    This is my first bike and I didn't do a lot of research
    before buying it, even though I spent a good bit of time
    riding various bicycles. The other postered mentioned
    something about "deep rims" but I'm still a little confused
    by that, since they don't seem "deep" to me.

  15. [email hidden] wrote:
    :: Roger Zoul <[email hidden]> writes:
    ::
    ::: If I need to find a wheel builder, how do you suggest I
    ::: proceed? I live in Greenville SC. What about Peter
    ::: White? He offers lifetime if you go with his
    ::: suggestions. I like to notion of that since obviously he
    ::: intends to back up what he does.
    ::
    :: Build your own. If you can follow instructions, you can
    :: probably build abetter wheel than you can get from most
    :: bicycle shops.
    ::
    :: avocet.comwheelbook.html
    :: tinyurl.com22lrv
    ::
    :: Available at many bicycle shops including ones who can't
    :: build a good wheel. They don't need no steenking books.
    :: They already know all about the subject... they think.

    I had ordered it before seeing your post. I hope the 3rd
    edition is the last.

  16. Roger Zoul said:

    This is my first bike and I didn't do a lot of research
    before buying it, even though I spent a good bit of time
    riding various bicycles.

    That's the most important part.

    Quoted message said:

    The other postered mentioned something about "deep rims"
    but I'm still a little confused by that, since they don't
    seem "deep" to me.

    Here's a couple examples: Deep V rim:
    poweroncycling.comVELOCITY DEEP V.jpg Semi-
    aero rim: triathletesworld.com.au030 w
    heel_sm.jpg Standard rim:
    nashbar.comprofile moreimages.cfm

    The difference is the cross-sectional shape of the rim. If
    it's just flat, parallel to the road, then it's a standard
    rim; if it's shaped like an inverted* 'V', then it's "deep".

    *: [at least, the portion nearest the road; at the top, it
    would be right-side-up]
    --
    Rick Onanian

  17. 'Bottom posted'...

    "Roger Zoul" <[email hidden]> wrote in small part in
    message "]news:[email hidden]...
    |
    | I hope the 3rd edition is the last.
    |
    |

    Why do you write that? Is it a snide crack? Inquiring minds
    ... and all that.

  18. Doug Huffman wrote:
    :: 'Bottom posted'...
    ::
    ::
    :: "Roger Zoul" <[email hidden]> wrote in small part
    :: in message "]news:[email hidden]...
    :::
    ::: I hope the 3rd edition is the last.
    :::
    :::
    ::
    :: Why do you write that? Is it a snide crack? Inquiring
    :: minds ... and all that.

    No, not at all...I was afraid I had bought an older edition
    rather than the most recent one. I'm way too much of a
    bicycling noob to be snide-cracking here. Show of over in
    the low carb ng is you want to see me doing that 🙂

  19. In article <[email hidden]>,
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    'Bottom posted'... "Roger Zoul" <[email hidden]>
    wrote in small part in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...
    | I hope the 3rd edition is the last.

    Why do you write that? Is it a snide crack? Inquiring minds
    ... and all that.

    No, I think he meant that he ordered the 3rd edition, so he
    hopes that is the latest edition of the book.
    --------------
    Alex

  20. "Tim McNamara" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    You edited the message wrong. It went like this:

    Quoted message said:

    But how do you "ruin" the rim? Did it become impossible
    to true after?


    Yes.

    OK, this is making less and less sense. I've had to ride
    home on broken spokes more than 50 miles on occasion, and
    over 10 miles on several occasions- happily not in years.
    I've never ruined a rim by riding on it with a broken spoke-
    and I've weighed over 195 lbs since I was a sophomore in
    high school back in 1974. I built my first wheels in 1978
    and finally retired those in 1994. I don't recall any
    spoke breakages in those wheels, but I have had spokes
    break in OEM prebuilt wheels and in one wheel I built
    using cheap Asahi spokes; otherwise I find 32 spoke wheels
    quite adequate.

    When you say the rim was "not truable," by whom was it not
    truable?

    Basically it sounds like your wheels have been built up by
    people who didn't know what they were doing- how to
    properly tension the spokes, remove spoke windup and
    stress relieve them to prevent breakage. A wheel should go
    50,000 miles at least without breaking a spoke, IMHO. This
    is not hard to achieve once the principles and procedures
    of good wheel building are known.

    The rims were declared not truable by the service department
    of LBS. I was shocked and asked that more senior techs give
    a second opinion and all the techs agreed. With the Open Pro
    rim one spoke actually pulled through the rim and it was
    instant trash.

    I weigh 245 lbs so I think that I am seeing problems that
    lighter riders never see.

    The thing that is frustrating to me is that I took
    appropriate steps to getting wheels built. I went to good
    shops, explained my situation with breaking rear spokes,
    always took the shops recommendations as to the best parts
    for me, asked that the wheels be built by their best wheel
    builder, and brought the wheels back to the shop for
    maintenance if there was any sign loose spokes or being out
    of true but I still did not get a wheel to last 500 miles.
    Most of the replies are either "build your own wheels, it
    not rocket surgery", or "the person who built your wheels
    didn't know what they were doing." If it isn't hard how come
    I got three crappy wheels? I am also frustrated that there
    is an elitist attitude that hand built wheels are the only
    way to go and that only fools buy ready made wheelsets. I
    have had much more fun on my rides since I switched to the
    Ksyrium Elite rear wheel.

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