I've got a Raleigh Banana, with old Weinmann brakes and levers. They're not what you'd call fantastic. I've not fettled them at all, but there's very obvious flex in them and the stopping power is rather underwhelming. What can I replace them with, without going to the expense / bother of new levers and bar tape?
Front rim is steel, which I'm looking to change for an alloy one, rear is already alloy.
I've got a Raleigh Banana, with old Weinmann brakes and levers. They're not what you'd call fantastic. I've not fettled them at all, but there's very obvious flex in them and the stopping power is rather underwhelming. What can I replace them with, without going to the expense / bother of new levers and bar tape?
Front rim is steel, which I'm looking to change for an alloy one, rear is already alloy.
Replacing the front steel with an alloy will do a lot of the job you want to do on the braking, I'd think. Weinmans may be plop compared to many modern alternatives but they do work to an acceptable degree if you give them good pads and an alloy rim to work against, and I know this as my old tourer had them and was brought to a stop successfully down big hills with full camping luggage on board.
Pete. -- Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/
I've got a Raleigh Banana, with old Weinmann brakes and levers. They're not what you'd call fantastic. I've not fettled them at all, but there's very obvious flex in them and the stopping power is rather underwhelming. What can I replace them with, without going to the expense / bother of new levers and bar tape?
Front rim is steel, which I'm looking to change for an alloy one, rear is already alloy.
What is the wheel size and what is the drop of the brakes (distance from the mounting bolt to the centre of the rim) ?
The best improvement would be an alloy rim (although that might be difficult if its a 27" wheel) and Koolstop Salmon brake pads. If it is a 27" wheel you might like to go to a 700C one before you buy new brake calipers as you will need a longer drop.
Unless the drop is the standard the choice of brake calipers is limited. I would go for: 39-49mm drop: Standard Shimano/Campag dual pivots 47-59mm drop: Shimano deep drop dual pivots 51-69mm drop: Alhonga dual pivot (available from St John St Cycles)
all with Salmon pads.
-- Tony
"Don't argue the matter, the difficulties will argue for themselves" -W.S. Churchill
"doki" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
I've got a Raleigh Banana, with old Weinmann brakes and levers. They're
not
Quoted message said:
what you'd call fantastic. I've not fettled them at all, but there's very obvious flex in them and the stopping power is rather underwhelming. What can I replace them with, without going to the expense / bother of new
levers
Quoted message said:
and bar tape?
Front rim is steel, which I'm looking to change for an alloy one, rear is already alloy.
I have a pair of Cannondale branded dual pivot calipers you can have for nowt <1> if you want them, e-mail me direct. It's worth checking that your levers are suitable for them, I don't have a clue. There is nothing wrong with their performance, which is probably way superior to the Weinmanns, but the fasteners are a little tatty cosmetically which is why I replaced them with Shimano ones that I got for a decent price. I also have an Open4CD (sort of brownish dark grey colour) on a Chorus hub front wheel going begging if you are local to the East Midlands (I can't be arsed to pack it but you can collect). <1> You can make a charitable donation if you don't wish to feel obligated.
I've got a Raleigh Banana, with old Weinmann brakes and levers. They're not what you'd call fantastic. I've not fettled them at all, but there's very obvious flex in them and the stopping power is rather underwhelming. What can I replace them with, without going to the expense / bother of new levers and bar tape?
Front rim is steel, which I'm looking to change for an alloy one, rear is already alloy.
Replacing the front steel with an alloy will do a lot of the job you want to do on the braking, I'd think. Weinmans may be plop compared to many modern alternatives but they do work to an acceptable degree if you give them good pads and an alloy rim to work against, and I know this as my old tourer had them and was brought to a stop successfully down big hills with full camping luggage on board.
They feel a tad mortifying at the moment. Particularly braking when you're not down on the drops. More used to V brake type stopping power.
Replacing the front steel with an alloy will do a lot of the job you want to do on the braking, I'd think. Weinmans may be plop compared to many modern alternatives but they do work to an acceptable degree if you give them good pads and an alloy rim to work against, and I know this as my old tourer had them and was brought to a stop successfully down big hills with full camping luggage on board.
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They feel a tad mortifying at the moment. Particularly braking when you're not down on the drops. More used to V brake type stopping power.
Note that the tourer in the above example did have alloy wheels back and front. And of course the front brake is where you get most of the useful work from, or at least you do if it isn't against a steel rim!
It probably won't hurt to check the cables aren't a nice shade of rusty orange inside the housings and replace them if they are, as well.
Pete. -- Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/
"doki" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
I've got a Raleigh Banana, with old Weinmann brakes and levers. They're not what you'd call fantastic. I've not fettled them at all, but there's very obvious flex in them and the stopping power is rather underwhelming. What can I replace them with, without going to the expense / bother of new levers and bar tape?
Front rim is steel, which I'm looking to change for an alloy one, rear is already alloy.
I have a pair of Cannondale branded dual pivot calipers you can have for nowt <1> if you want them, e-mail me direct. It's worth checking that your levers are suitable for them, I don't have a clue. There is nothing wrong with their performance, which is probably way superior to the Weinmanns, but the fasteners are a little tatty cosmetically which is why I replaced them with Shimano ones that I got for a decent price. I also have an Open4CD (sort of brownish dark grey colour) on a Chorus hub front wheel going begging if you are local to the East Midlands (I can't be arsed to pack it but you can collect). <1> You can make a charitable donation if you don't wish to feel obligated.
The East midlands is a fairly large place. I'm up between Nottingham and Sheffield. I'll be able to pick up some bits and bobs as soon as my car's back on the road.
"doki" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
The East midlands is a fairly large place. I'm up between Nottingham and Sheffield. I'll be able to pick up some bits and bobs as soon as my car's back on the road.
South side of Leicester to be precise, a couple of miles from M1 J21 on what passes for a ring road . If you are seriously interested in the wheel and prepared to collect let me know, the garage roof space is filling up :-)
"doki" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
The East midlands is a fairly large place. I'm up between Nottingham and Sheffield. I'll be able to pick up some bits and bobs as soon as my car's back on the road.
South side of Leicester to be precise, a couple of miles from M1 J21 on what passes for a ring road . If you are seriously interested in the wheel and prepared to collect let me know, the garage roof space is filling up :-)
Next week maybe? There's someone I could do with seeing down that way.
On Mon, 30 May 2005 14:28:08 +0100, Peter Clinch <[email hidden]> wrote in message <[email hidden]>:
Quoted message said:
Replacing the front steel with an alloy will do a lot of the job you want to do on the braking, I'd think. Weinmans may be plop compared to many modern alternatives but they do work to an acceptable degree if you give them good pads and an alloy rim to work against
Wot Pete said. Change the rim, fettle the brakes up and fit Kool-Stop salmon pads, see if that works. If not, chuck on a dual-pivot caliper on the front, but I reckon the rim and pads will do it.
I have a pair of Cannondale branded dual pivot calipers you can have for nowt <1> if you want them, e-mail me direct.
After reading Tony Ravens post I realise they may not be suitable: "39-49mm drop: Standard Shimano/Campag dual pivots" is what they are.
It'll be worth a try. I just about got a *front* short-drop Campag DP working on my 80s Raleigh Royal (with a Weinmann lever). Braking was much improved compared to the original Weinmann centre-pull. Can't remember whether that was with 27" or 700c wheel but the caliper slots might need filing in any case to lower the pads sufficiently.
Now upgraded to Alhonga deep drop DPs as they have decent clearance for mudguards. There's more to that than drop. Shimano long-reach brakes may be cheaper--new or second-hand.
Your LBS may have a cheapo alloy wheel, Doki. Brake pads will need lowering by 4mm if converting from 27" to 700c. It'll be worth changing the lever as well. I know what you mean about the hassle but modern levers are sooo much better (stop better & are more comfortable to hold).
I've got a Raleigh Banana, with old Weinmann brakes and levers. They're not what you'd call fantastic. I've not fettled them at all, but there's very obvious flex in them and the stopping power is rather underwhelming. What can I replace them with, without going to the expense / bother of new levers and bar tape?
I replaced mine (on a Record Sprint) with new Campagnolo Centaur calipers. I didn't replace the levers or tape, which is still original. You would not believe the difference in braking performance! Strongly recommended. But actually any modern dual pivot caliper would work, and you would not have to replace the levers or tape.
On Mon, 30 May 2005 14:28:08 +0100, Peter Clinch <[email hidden]> wrote in message <[email hidden]>:
Quoted message said:
Replacing the front steel with an alloy will do a lot of the job you want to do on the braking, I'd think. Weinmans may be plop compared to many modern alternatives but they do work to an acceptable degree if you give them good pads and an alloy rim to work against
Wot Pete said. Change the rim, fettle the brakes up and fit Kool-Stop salmon pads, see if that works. If not, chuck on a dual-pivot caliper on the front, but I reckon the rim and pads will do it.
Speaking as someone who used to ride with well maintained Weinmanns until last summer, chuck 'em in the bin /now/. They will never be better than moderately [censored]. Yes, new cables and pads /will/ improve things. Marginally. A new dual pivot caliper - on the front, anyway - will improve things greatly.
On Mon, 30 May 2005 18:15:00 +0100, Simon Brooke <[email hidden]> wrote in message <[email hidden]>:
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Speaking as someone who used to ride with well maintained Weinmanns until last summer, chuck 'em in the bin /now/.
I used them for a long time. Dual-pivots are better, of course, but the price of a new set of pads is low...
So did I, on my old Raleigh Royale, and my vote goes with Simon. Changing those old Weinmanns for a pair of Shimano DP brakes was money well spent. Only if there were very pressing reasons to use the money on other things would I change my mind.
I've got a Raleigh Banana, with old Weinmann brakes and levers. They're not what you'd call fantastic. I've not fettled them at all, but there's very obvious flex in them and the stopping power is rather underwhelming. What can I replace them with, without going to the expense / bother of new levers and bar tape?
Front rim is steel, which I'm looking to change for an alloy one, rear is already alloy.
Yes, I can vouch for Weinmann sidepulls being rubbish even with alloy rim & Koolstops [*]. But if they are centre pull they should work adequately.
[*] The brake force provided at each wheel is about 45lbf. So both together just meet the MoT 50% efficiency requirement for a car. A V brake can produce over 150lbf.
One problem with changing calipers is that modern ones have an allen head fastener rather than a hex nut. They are not compatible without a bit of surgery on the fork
Yes, I can vouch for Weinmann sidepulls being rubbish even with alloy rim & Koolstops [*]. But if they are centre pull they should work adequately.
....but still not as well as dual pivots.
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One problem with changing calipers is that modern ones have an allen head fastener rather than a hex nut. They are not compatible without a bit of surgery on the fork
Minor surgery, though: enlarge hole with drill. Also look up "Recessed" in the Sheldon Brown Glossary for alternative ideas.
"Pete Biggs" <p@honeydewbiggs{remove_melon}.tc> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
DavidR said:
Yes, I can vouch for Weinmann sidepulls being rubbish even with alloy rim & Koolstops [*]. But if they are centre pull they should work adequately.
...but still not as well as dual pivots.
Quoted message said:
One problem with changing calipers is that modern ones have an allen head fastener rather than a hex nut. They are not compatible without a bit of surgery on the fork
Minor surgery, though: enlarge hole with drill. Also look up "Recessed" in the Sheldon Brown Glossary for alternative ideas.
Alhonga DPs are nutted.
And St Johns Street Cycles sell nutted Shimano deep drop calipers....for GBP50.