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Brake on Coker

Started by rusty · · Last activity · 7 posts · 317 views

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
3 April 2006
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6 April 2006
Original author
rusty
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  1. I have bought Magura HS33 for my GB Coker. When I test them either the
    wheel or the frame flexes when us a bit of power on the Coker.
    Do you guys have a large distance between your brake pads an the wheel
    to avoid this? Or what should I do to remove the flexing (the wheel is
    pretty tights see under)?

    I had my wheel trued last year, so the spokes are pretty thight.

    Components:
    Airfoil rim, Unicycle.com Wide Coker hub, GB36 Coker frame

    Anders
    Norway
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    Go away snow

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  2. rusty said:

    I have bought Magura HS33 for my GB Coker. When I test them either the
    wheel or the frame flexes when us a bit of power on the Coker.
    Do you guys have a large distance between your brake pads an the wheel
    to avoid this? Or what should I do to remove the flexing (the wheel is
    pretty tights see under)?

    I had my wheel trued last year, so the spokes are pretty thight.

    Components:
    Airfoil rim, Unicycle.com Wide Coker hub, GB36 Coker frame

    Anders
    Norway

    A combination of more tension on the spokes and more distance between
    the pads and the rim.

    The wheel flex is one reason why Dave Stockton came up with his
    Strongest Coker Wheel. In part to eliminate wheel flex that is
    noticeable when using a brake.

    Get the tension on the spokes as high as the wheel builder reasonably
    can. I'm not sure how high you can go with the stock Coker spokes.
    Dave Stockton uses the custom cut stainless steel spokes from Tom
    Miller (The Unicycle Factory).

    The other thing to check is to make sure the bearing clamps on the GB4
    frame are tight enough. They only have a lip on one side of the clamp.
    If the bearing clamps are too loose the frame can slide on the bearing
    a bit. So tighten them up, but not too tight.

    I have a GB4, Airfoil rim, Tom Miller spokes, UDC wide hub, and a
    Magura brake. The wheel was built by a local rider and has a fair
    amount of tension in the spokes. It all works well and the brake pads
    don't rub the rim. The trick is a good wheel build with lots of
    tension in the spokes.

    --
    john_childs

    john_childs (att) hotmail (dott) com
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  3. John: I have been searching the threads on coker wheel building and
    lots of folks talk about higher spoke tension, bu I never hear anyone
    say how tight? If I knew this number, I'd be able to tell my LBS wheel
    builder just how much they can tighten things down without worrying
    about breaking anything. Do you or others out there have a
    recommendation?

    The wheel I want to build would use the UDC extra wide hub, Airfoil rim
    and the ss 14 ga spokes (4 cross pattern) that UDC is now selling.
    Thanks,
    Bryce

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  4. john_childs said:

    more tension on the spokes... Get the tension on the spokes as high as
    the wheel builder reasonably can.... a fair amount of tension in the
    spokes... lots of tension in the spokes.

    So you're saying tighter bearing clamps will help? :p

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  5. maestro8 said:

    So you're saying tighter bearing clamps will help? :p

    Tight enough that the frame doesn't slide on the bearings under heavy
    pedaling load or Coker XC muni use.

    I only mention that because I've had my brake rub on my Coker before
    and the cause was because one of the bearing clamps had gotten too
    loose.

    --
    john_childs

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  6. brycer1968 said:

    John: I have been searching the threads on coker wheel building and
    lots of folks talk about higher spoke tension, bu I never hear anyone
    say how tight? If I knew this number, I'd be able to tell my LBS wheel
    builder just how much they can tighten things down without worrying
    about breaking anything. Do you or others out there have a
    recommendation?

    The wheel I want to build would use the UDC extra wide hub, Airfoil rim
    and the ss 14 ga spokes (4 cross pattern) that UDC is now selling.
    Thanks,
    Bryce

    I don't know any numbers for tension. The process seems to be build
    the wheel to a tension at which the wheel builder believes the wheel is
    stiff enough. Ride it around. If it flexes too much then take it back
    to the wheel builder for more tension. Repeat until it works well.

    The stainless steel spokes also seem to stretch a bit after riding. Or
    maybe that stretch is just due to spoke windup that releases after the
    wheel has been ridden. In any event you'll likely have to take the
    wheel back to the wheel builder for a fixup especially if it is their
    first Coker Airfoil wheel.

    My Coker wheel was built by a local Seattle rider, unisk8r. It has
    been good. He has built several Coker Airfoil wheels.

    --
    john_childs

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    Gallery: http://gallery.unicyclist.com/john_childs
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  7. john_childs said:

    I don't know any numbers for tension. The process seems to be build the
    wheel to a tension at which the wheel builder believes the wheel is
    stiff enough. Ride it around. If it flexes too much then take it back
    to the wheel builder for more tension. Repeat until it works well.

    The stainless steel spokes also seem to stretch a bit after riding. Or
    maybe that stretch is just due to spoke windup that releases after the
    wheel has been ridden. In any event you'll likely have to take the
    wheel back to the wheel builder for a fixup especially if it is their
    first Coker Airfoil wheel.

    My Coker wheel was built by a local Seattle rider, unisk8r. It has
    been good. He has built several Coker Airfoil wheels.

    Thanks John. I appreciate the help.
    Bryce

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