bought a coker



"john_childs" <[email protected]> writes:

> You can cut the seatpost with a hacksaw. To help you get a straight cut
> you can wrap a leather strap, like an old leather belt, around the
> seatpost to act as a saw guide.
>
> If you don't want to cut it yourself, you can take it to a bike shop.
> The bike shop will have a special saw guide and they'll be able to get a
> nice straight cut with the hacksaw.


Hmmm... I do woodworking on a good sized bandsaw. Anyone know if the
GB4 seatpost I have can be cut with a bimetal blade? Without dulling
the blade noticeably, that is.

> You can also use a pipe cutter. I'll attach a picture of a pipe cutter
> so there is no confusion about what it is. The problem with using a
> pipe cutter is that the pipe cutter pushes the material aside at the
> cut. It leaves a bulge or a ridge right next to the cut. You'll have
> to sand or file the ridge down after cutting the seatpost. The pipe
> cutter gives you a nice straight cut.


I used a pipe cutter last time on a cheapo seatpost and didn't notice
any bulging. Maybe because the metal was too soft.

Ken
 
Ken Cline wrote:
> *
> Hmmm... I do woodworking on a good sized bandsaw. Anyone know if the
> GB4 seatpost I have can be cut with a bimetal blade? Without dulling
> the blade noticeably, that is.
> *


showard is the guy to ask, but I imagine it would cut like butter. Seat
posts are never made of hard materials because brittle fracture is
decisive and produces a fracture face with very sharp edges. They are
either made of soft steel, aluminum (which is even softer) or in the
very expensive case, some form of composite. Remember to use the proper
lubricant while sawing to keep the teeth cool and unclogged. If the
metal heats up enough it welds itself to the teeth and ruins the
blade.

Seriously, though, I think setting up the bandsaw for cutting metal
would take longer than just hacksawing through the post. I had to cut a
seatpost down on one of my unicycles - took me about 5 minutes,
including finding the hacksaw, oil and a mill ******* file, propping the
seatpost against my knee, starting the cut, lubing the cut then sawing
it all the way through, dressing the cut edge with the file until it
looked square and burr free, and then adding some small chamfers. Ok, 6
minutes - I did take a minute to clean the saw and file and put them
away.

The cut edge of the post is not visible, is not subject to stress, and
does not perform any relevant alignment function so the cut can be
imperfect without any penalty. It's important to dress the burrs to
avoid scaring the seat tube on installation, but other than that it
could look like it was cut by a 6 year old and still function perfectly.


--
cyberbellum - Level 1.0 rider!

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Hey thank you, i'm glad I bought it, hopefully tomorrow I can take it
and ride it in an open place. I was practicing mounting by hoping up and
coming back down, so i'd get the feel of it. I did get the seat post
cut, actually I cut it twice, used a hacksaw, and it isn't perfectly
straight, but good enough to ride.

I like the Kris holms seat, I have two viscounts, and one torker. The
viscounts aren't that bad, but the kh is better, and the torkers seat
post is too short but I don't think i'd like it too much.

Anyways, i'll let yas know if I get out for a ride.

Andrew


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KJ-52 - unicycler

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Andrew,

Good luck with it (and I hope you enjoy it)! I've been out on a Coker
once or twice before, but I've never put in the money to get one (I
think I might have to soon now that another summer's rolling around; the
old Schwinn is great, but it's nice having something else to ride).

-Mitchell


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Hey if you want a nice smooth ride get a coker, I got one of the
reconditioned ones off of Unicycle.com. I took it out for a ride today,
didn't try to freemount at first, just ride. Took a few tries till I got
brave enough to stay on more than a few pedals, if I even got a few out.
But soon I rode around the church and found that I could stop myself, it
just takes more effort. Still not all too stable, but it felt nice,
especially with the KH seat, much more comfortable than my Viscount (
they're fine, but for comparison).

After about two times around and not so much pedaling, also a few hops
to see if I could, I went back to the 20 inch. Oh yeah, I managed some
free mounts by holding on to the tire to get me up, both feet on the
pedals, and slowly working forward. I tried to focus on getting
everything done quicker cause if I went to slow I ran out of time and
was back down. Anyways, the 20 was like, ahhhhhhhhh! I can't ride this!
I felt like I had no control and had to pedal like a maniac, plus I was
so much lower, but after awhile I got back to the feel of it. Also free
mounting was like a little hop compared to this loooonnnggg jump I had
to take to get on the coker.

Another good thing, I freemounted with my right foot hoping on the pedal
with my 20 inch. I've been really scared to do it, and haven't focused
on learning much but I got to to be level two I think, plus I wanna show
this girl I met at club that she could do it to. I did it 3 times I
think, pretty shaky, but i'm still alive, so I had fun.

Andrew


--
KJ-52 - unicycler

Originally posted by Logan_A.
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Well I took the coker out again today in a nice sized parking lot. Takes
much less time to go across it in a coker. I can turn fairly good and
stay on for pretty long, sometimes I loose it, but no bad spills yet. I
don't know how fast i've gone, but not all that fast probably. I was
hanging out with these skater kids, then they had to go so I put the two
unis I had in the back of the van and left. Next I hear them yelling (
the kids not the unis ) and here my back popped open and both the unis
fell out, ack! the skater guys brought them to me and I don't think they
were hurt, i've probably upd's worse on them.

Anyways, I like cokers, I wanna get a 6 foot next, but for now i'm gonna
try to improve on the ones I have.

Andrew


--
KJ-52 - unicycler

Originally posted by Logan_A.
Note this e-mail is baKsed oJn -a sto5ry a2nd mIay bSe fictKional oEr
conWtain fictiLonal elements. This should also not have been read by any
younger riders.

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