Bought a used Nishiki and the adjustable cup lockring was not tight. It may have been ridden this way for a time. Compared the "play" in the bottom bracket thresds between a couple of frames. In other words, screw a cup in part way and fell how loose it is in the threads. This one "seems" sort of loose compared to some but approx. the same as some others. My question is, what is the limiting factor here? Is the frame ok to use as long as the cups will tighten up and not come loose??? IOs the difference that i noticed just manufacturing tolerances ?
Bottom bracket threads, like most threads, will have some play or slop. This is normal, and is needed in order to thread the external and internal threads together. The differences you see are typically from the "pitch diameter." The play will go away when the lockring is fully secured. Because of this thread play, only check the bearing adjustment after the lockring is tightened. It is actually pretty diffuclt to "strip" a bottom bracket cup. Basically, if the lockring pulls up fully tight, it is fine and will survive the use.
also use blue loctite (walmart) on one side-the adjustable cup--speread blue just inside ond over the lap of the cup when screwed in-for rust prevention. a thin layer of lock on all threads on a cool day should give enough time for adjustment-use cool locktite! i use red on the lockring sealing all surfaces
Bottom bracket threads, like most threads, will have some play or slop. This is normal, and is needed in order to thread the external and internal threads together. The differences you see are typically from the "pitch diameter." The play will go away when the lockring is fully secured. Because of this thread play, only check the bearing adjustment after the lockring is tightened. It is actually pretty diffuclt to "strip" a bottom bracket cup. Basically, if the lockring pulls up fully tight, it is fine and will survive the use.
Bought a used Nishiki and the adjustable cup lockring was not tight. It may have been ridden this way for a time. Compared the "play" in the bottom bracket thresds between a couple of frames. In other words, screw a cup in part way and fell how loose it is in the threads. This one "seems" sort of loose compared to some but approx. the same as some others. My question is, what is the limiting factor here?
Will the cup stay in place without loosening in normal use, and can the locknut be tightened correctly without the threads stripping? If so, ride on.
Quoted message said:
Is the frame ok to use as long as the cups will tighten up and not come loose???
Yup.
Quoted message said:
Is the difference that i noticed just manufacturing tolerances ?
More likely just a little wear in the threads. If you're worried about it at all, I'd recommend getting a cartridge BB with a plastic left-side retainer to replace the current unsealed unit. The left-side retaners on those tend to fit a bit snug, and the mere fact that its threads are new will probably take up some of the slack even with a metal-retainer version. -- Typoes are a feature, not a bug. Some gardening required to reply via email. Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
getting it off> forget the weenie pin tool series. get a monster pin tool. the blue lock lets go over time. at 2500 miles when yawl need to repack the grease and replace the bearings. the blue lock will be slightly loose either burn it middle to outside with a torch after buying new seals or accept the fact the slight heat will slightly hmmmm well you'll see. you can take a utility knife blade and scrap the lock outtta the poutside threads then turn the cup a bit, scrape, trun. drip some acetone in there offen a screw driver after lubing the seals. when it feels like its binging but wants to screw out. add some light synthetic oil-epic aerosol chain lube from finish line works really fine at this.
my last repack-three weeks ago-brought the new idea that penetrating oil was not the final answer. the PO allowed the cup to jam but adding the thin synthetic brought the cup out after a few back and forths. a thin synthetic for this purpose would be a good shop additon. i don't know of one at this time? the HD pin tools may be more easily used rather than thought of as a way to force the cup out with additional holding power and leverage-i suspect the thread designwas not meant to be forced out when bearing agaionst the loctite thread filler or dirt as in debris and rust with the extra o2 atoms packed in there.
