Bottom Bracket/General Frustration advice please?

Saint said:

Prior to Xmas I bought a new bike at a shop which is not
my LBS but nonetheless seemed ok. I wanted a second bike
for general buggering about on. They were selling it
quite cheap whereas my LBS has a reputation for being
rather pricey.

However, having now done a good few hundred miles on it I
have noticed that the shifting, particularly at the front,
continues to be very hit and miss and the bottom bracket
creaks like hell, which is driving me absolutely nuts. I
initially put the shifting down to general cable stretch
and duly took it back to the shop (3rd time) where I
bought it who inform me that they again adjusted/stripped
it all and that the creaking was due to the
aluminium/steel relationship between frame and bracket and
that this was normal. They have now made 3 attempts to
sort it out and its no better. The set is Tiagra and it
generally starts after about 10 mins riding - hence the
fact it doesn't happen on the stand or outside the shop!!

Anyway, first ride out today post latest 'fix' and the
problem is worse than ever.

Are you quite sure it's the BB that's creaking? What else
have you eliminated and how?

Quoted message said:

Added to which the bloody chain kept coming off. I know I
should take it back but I have lost confidence on the
shop's competence and am looking at other options:

1. Swapping the bike altogether - shame as I really
like it.

Don't then. Although creaks can be hard to track down, the
problems are not serious and can be fixed. Try another bike
shop or learn to DIY.

Quoted message said:

2. Upgrading the bottom bracket/chainring and derailleurs
to something like Ultegra - would this make a
difference?

If it does, it'll just be coincidence.

Quoted message said:

Also how much would this cost (roughly?)

See www.wiggle.co.uk to get an idea of bike shop prices (for
Shimano). Few quid extra for fitting.

~PB

"Saint" <giant2334@no_spam.com> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Prior to Xmas I bought a new bike at a shop which is not
my LBS but nonetheless seemed ok. I wanted a second bike
for general buggering about on. They were selling it
quite cheap whereas my LBS has a reputation for being
rather pricey.

However, having now done a good few hundred miles on it I
have noticed

that

Quoted message said:

the shifting, particularly at the front, continues to be
very hit and miss and the bottom bracket creaks like hell,
which is driving me absolutely nuts. I initially put the
shifting down to general cable stretch and duly took it
back to the shop (3rd time) where I bought it who inform
me that they again adjusted/stripped it all and that the
creaking was due to the aluminium/steel relationship
between frame and bracket and that this was normal. They
have now made 3 attempts to sort it out and its no better.

The

Quoted message said:

set is Tiagra and it generally starts after about 10 mins
riding - hence

the

Quoted message said:

fact it doesn't happen on the stand or outside the shop!!

Anyway, first ride out today post latest 'fix' and the
problem is worse

than

Quoted message said:

ever. Added to which the bloody chain kept coming off. I
know I should

take

Quoted message said:

it back but I have lost confidence on the shop's
competence and am looking at other options:

1. Swapping the bike altogether - shame as I really like
it. But also

like

Quoted message said:

the look of the Cannondales that get rave reviews, except
that I ride only for fitness and around 80 miles per week
- I dunno if these would be a bit OTT for me?

Can anyone comment on the R500? Must admit I tend to
feel more

comfortable

Quoted message said:

on a flat bar though so any other recommendations welcome.

2. Upgrading the bottom bracket/chainring and derailleurs
to something

like

Quoted message said:

Ultegra - would this make a difference? Also how much
would this cost (roughly?)

The moral of this story is of course to deal only with
your LBS. They may be dearer but at least you can build
a relationship with them. Now I have to go in red faced
and admit I 'cheated' on them and bought from a
competitor.......I know I will have to pay the price.
Upside is that their mechanic is red hot and can fix
most stuff.

Cheers.

S

Dunno but if I got creaking noises I'd suspect the tightness
of the cranks first. A quick check there could pay
dividends. Julia

"JBB" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Saint" <giant2334@no_spam.com> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Prior to Xmas I bought a new bike ... However, having
now done a good few hundred miles on it I have noticed

that the shifting, particularly at the front, continues to
be very hit and

miss

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

and the bottom bracket creaks like hell,

Have a similar problem myself.

Bought bike last November. Done less than 150 miles so far
(OK, I know I've been lazy).

Some front changing problems and chain rub. Most likely down
to poor adjustment, which I will sort out. However, since a
wet ride home from work a couple of days ago, a squeak has
developed from the left hand crank.

If, as JBB suggests, this is down to tightness of the
cranks, just how tight should they be? Should I use any lube
between crank and spindle? If so, what?

Cheers,

DG

Saint <giant2334@no_spam.com> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Prior to Xmas I bought a new bike at a shop which is not
my LBS but nonetheless seemed ok. I wanted a second bike
for general buggering about on. They were selling it
quite cheap whereas my LBS has a reputation for being
rather pricey.

However, having now done a good few hundred miles on it I
have noticed

that

Quoted message said:

the shifting, particularly at the front, continues to be
very hit and miss and the bottom bracket creaks like hell,
which is driving me absolutely nuts. I initially put the
shifting down to general cable stretch and duly took it
back to the shop (3rd time) where I bought it who inform
me that they again adjusted/stripped it all and that the
creaking was due to the aluminium/steel relationship
between frame and bracket and that this was normal. They
have now made 3 attempts to sort it out and its no better.

The

Quoted message said:

set is Tiagra and it generally starts after about 10 mins
riding - hence

the

Quoted message said:

fact it doesn't happen on the stand or outside the shop!!

With the above characterisics I'd suspect a loose crank-to-
ring bolt. They creak, can affect shifing, and when you let
it sit the oxide will build up - starting off there's no
creak, then the oxide rubs off and it does.

"jtaylor" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Saint <giant2334@no_spam.com> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Prior to Xmas I bought a new bike at a shop which is not
my LBS but nonetheless seemed ok. I wanted a second bike
for general buggering

about

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

on. They were selling it quite cheap whereas my LBS has
a reputation

for

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

being rather pricey.

However, having now done a good few hundred miles on it
I have noticed

that

Quoted message said:

the shifting, particularly at the front, continues to be
very hit and

miss

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

and the bottom bracket creaks like hell, which is
driving me absolutely nuts. I initially put the shifting
down to general cable stretch and

duly

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

took it back to the shop (3rd time) where I bought it
who inform me that they again adjusted/stripped it all
and that the creaking was due to the aluminium/steel
relationship between frame and bracket and that this was
normal. They have now made 3 attempts to sort it out and
its no better.

The

Quoted message said:

set is Tiagra and it generally starts after about 10
mins riding - hence

the

Quoted message said:

fact it doesn't happen on the stand or outside the
shop!!

With the above characterisics I'd suspect a loose crank-to-
ring bolt. They creak, can affect shifing, and when you
let it sit the oxide will build

up -

Quoted message said:

starting off there's no creak, then the oxide rubs off and
it does.

Well I got lucky todat in the respct that I found a shop
open who took a look at it. They agree that the noise is the
bottom bracket but say that it's clean, greased, fitted and
tightened properly and the problem may be that it is just
'bedding in'.

That's the second shop telling me that there's nothing wrong
but I don't buy it at all - you don't buy a new bike and
expect it to make such a din - it's maddening when riding.

Is it difficult to fit a new crank? Does it involve removing
the frone mech et al? Are there special tools needed?

Cheers

Saint

Saint said:

Is it difficult to fit a new crank?

I doubt you need a new crank, but they're not difficult to
fit if you have the right tools.

Quoted message said:

Does it involve removing the frone mech et al?

No

Quoted message said:

Are there special tools needed?

Need a "crank puller" to get the old one off. Best to use a
torque wrench to fit new crank.

~PB

In message <[email hidden]>, Saint
<giant2334@no_spam.com> writes

Quoted message said:

Well I got lucky todat in the respct that I found a shop
open who took a look at it. They agree that the noise is
the bottom bracket but say that it's clean, greased, fitted
and tightened properly and the problem may be that it is
just 'bedding in'.

That's the second shop telling me that there's nothing
wrong but I don't buy it at all - you don't buy a new
bike and expect it to make such a din - it's maddening
when riding.

Is it difficult to fit a new crank? Does it involve
removing the frone mech et al? Are there special
tools needed?

Just before you spend any money, check the seatpost is
greased where it sits in the frame (unless it's carbon) and
the saddle clamp is cinched up tightly, both can cause a
creak that can sound a lot like a bottom bracket, especially
with an aluminium frame.

To check if it is this, stand up and pedal, if the sound
goes away then it's probably that, if not then look at the
cranks again. With creaks it's a long process of
elimination, but check each set of bolts in turn until you
find what has affected it. Also take a look at your pedals,
seen a spd style pedal creak a bit like a bb too...

To be fair both shops should have told you this, trying each
bit in turn until you don't get the squeak, the mechanic
really should have taken it for a test ride for such creaks,
or even ride along side you to see if that helps.

Then chuck money at it 🙂

--
Thomas Letherby

"Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Saint said:

Is it difficult to fit a new crank?

I doubt you need a new crank, but they're not difficult to
fit if you have the right tools.

Quoted message said:

Does it involve removing the frone mech et al?

No

Quoted message said:

Are there special tools needed?

Need a "crank puller" to get the old one off. Best to use
a torque wrench to fit new crank.

~PB

Thanks again, as ever, Pete. To be honest I would agree
in principle that the bike 'shouldn't' need a new crank -
it's done less than 500 miles. However if you were to
ride it I would guarantee that, within 5 miles, you would
want to chuck the thing down the nearest cliff!! It
really is maddening and I just may have to accept that I
may have a duff one.

Now I just need to fathom out how to fit one! All part of
the fun and I am learning all the time.

Cheers

S

Saint said:

Now I just need to fathom out how to fit one! All part of
the fun and I am learning all the time.

Get remover tool from LBS or: www.mwdyason.ltd.uk/shop.asp?-
no_category=23&text_company=TOOLS

Instructions for the most common type of cranks:
www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQrCarm.shtml

It'll be well worth removing and refitting the existing
cranks yourself before replacing them. Grease the spindle*
(and bolts) and get cranks nice and tight. You might do a
better job than the bike shops, seriously. Don't forget that
you're not just tightening a bolt but actually wedging the
crank up the spindle so quite some force is needed (but
don't go completely bonkers on it!). You might also need
considerable force on the tool to remove - use a wrench or
large adjustable spanner on tool if necessary.

Also check chainring bolts are tight; grease pedal threads
and tighten, keep on trying to eliminate things.

* Opposite to standard practice but it works for me and is
advocated by Jobst Brandt:
draco.acs.uci.eduindex.htmlOpen ↗ - 8f

~PB