Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Bottom Bracket for Stronglight 49D Cranks

Started by James Thomson · · Last activity · 5 posts · 1,308 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
23 February 2007
Last activity
24 February 2007
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James Thomson
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  1. I have a pair of Stronglight 49D cranks that I'd like to use with a single
    3mm (1/8"😉 TA chainring to drive a Fichtel & Sachs Torpedo hub (~40mm
    chainline) and I'm looking for a suitable bottom bracket.

    The cranks were bought in different places at different times. The left
    (stamped F and 9 near the taper) was originally French threaded (I've
    retapped it to BSC), and the right (A and 4) British. It seems that the
    tapers are slightly different: the right crank comes close to bottoming on a
    Campag axle and seems a good fit on a Shimano UN71, while the left crank
    seems happier with the Campag taper. The right taper doesn't look worn.

    This needs to fit an old French "porteur" bike, with French threaded bottom
    bracket shell.

    I don't currently own a Stronglight crank extractor, so I'd like to get this
    right first time if possible.

    Can anyone tell me what the original Stronglight spec would have been for a
    bottom bracket for track or hub gear use?

    Can anyone make a stab at a reasonable modern alternative for a French
    threaded frame? I have some Spidel cups that will work with 30mm cartridge
    bearings or a UN72.

    Thanks,

    James Thomson

  2. Shimano UN72 works for me. I think it's a 118mm with the crank setup as a
    double on a bike with 126mm rear OLN spacing and 7-speed freewheel. But they
    don't come in French threading. Phil Wood sell French thread BB cups for
    their bottom brackets.

    Nick

    "James Thomson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I have a pair of Stronglight 49D cranks that I'd like to use with a single
    3mm (1/8"😉 TA chainring to drive a Fichtel & Sachs Torpedo hub (~40mm
    chainline) and I'm looking for a suitable bottom bracket.

    The cranks were bought in different places at different times. The left
    (stamped F and 9 near the taper) was originally French threaded (I've
    retapped it to BSC), and the right (A and 4) British. It seems that the
    tapers are slightly different: the right crank comes close to bottoming on
    a
    Campag axle and seems a good fit on a Shimano UN71, while the left crank
    seems happier with the Campag taper. The right taper doesn't look worn.

    This needs to fit an old French "porteur" bike, with French threaded
    bottom
    bracket shell.

    I don't currently own a Stronglight crank extractor, so I'd like to get
    this
    right first time if possible.

    Can anyone tell me what the original Stronglight spec would have been for
    a
    bottom bracket for track or hub gear use?

    Can anyone make a stab at a reasonable modern alternative for a French
    threaded frame? I have some Spidel cups that will work with 30mm cartridge
    bearings or a UN72.

  3. James Thomson said:

    I have a pair of Stronglight 49D cranks that I'd like to use with a single
    3mm (1/8"😉 TA chainring to drive a Fichtel & Sachs Torpedo hub (~40mm
    chainline) and I'm looking for a suitable bottom bracket.

    The cranks were bought in different places at different times. The left
    (stamped F and 9 near the taper) was originally French threaded (I've
    retapped it to BSC), and the right (A and 4) British. It seems that the
    tapers are slightly different: the right crank comes close to bottoming on a
    Campag axle and seems a good fit on a Shimano UN71, while the left crank
    seems happier with the Campag taper. The right taper doesn't look worn.

    This needs to fit an old French "porteur" bike, with French threaded bottom
    bracket shell.

    I don't currently own a Stronglight crank extractor, so I'd like to get this
    right first time if possible.

    Can anyone tell me what the original Stronglight spec would have been for a
    bottom bracket for track or hub gear use?

    Can anyone make a stab at a reasonable modern alternative for a French
    threaded frame? I have some Spidel cups that will work with 30mm cartridge
    bearings or a UN72.

    The Stronglight track spindle, same as a TA #314 is asymmetric, about
    3~4mm difference which is why your symmetric spindles seem long on the
    left/short on the right.
    The original series Phil Wood #2 cartridge works perfectly, still made.
    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  4. "A Muzi" <[email hidden]> a écrit:

    Quoted message said:

    The Stronglight track spindle, same as a TA #314 is asymmetric,
    about 3~4mm difference

    Thanks. I found this diagram of a TA#314 that seems to show it very nearly
    symmetrical - 21.5mm left side offset vs 22mm right. Was there more than one
    model with that number?

    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/images/ta-bb-axles.gif

    Quoted message said:

    which is why your symmetric spindles seem long on the left/short
    on the right.

    There's also a taper difference, at least under hand pressure: the right
    crank has about 3mm more engagement. I don't know whether the right crank
    bore started out smaller and has been enlarged (though it doesn't look that
    way) or if Stronglight tapers changed between the times these two cranks
    were made, but the difference is clearly there.

    Quoted message said:

    The original series Phil Wood #2 cartridge works perfectly, still made.

    Thanks, though a little beyond my budget for the bike in question.

    I think I'll be able to get close with a 110mm UN72 using the Spidel cups
    with a spacer under the right cup.

    James Thomson

  5. "James Thomson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "A Muzi" <[email hidden]> a écrit:

    Quoted message said:

    The Stronglight track spindle, same as a TA #314 is asymmetric,
    about 3~4mm difference

    Thanks. I found this diagram of a TA#314 that seems to show it very


    nearly

    Quoted message said:

    symmetrical - 21.5mm left side offset vs 22mm right. Was there more than


    one

    Quoted message said:

    model with that number?

    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/images/ta-bb-axles.gif

    Quoted message said:

    which is why your symmetric spindles seem long on the left/short
    on the right.

    There's also a taper difference, at least under hand pressure: the right
    crank has about 3mm more engagement. I don't know whether the right


    crank

    Quoted message said:

    bore started out smaller and has been enlarged (though it doesn't look


    that

    Quoted message said:

    way) or if Stronglight tapers changed between the times these two cranks
    were made, but the difference is clearly there.

    Quoted message said:

    The original series Phil Wood #2 cartridge works perfectly, still


    made.

    Quoted message said:


    Thanks, though a little beyond my budget for the bike in question.

    I think I'll be able to get close with a 110mm UN72 using the Spidel


    cups

    Quoted message said:

    with a spacer under the right cup.

    James Thomson


    It's not uncommon for the tapers in the crank arms to expand from frequent
    removal and replacement especially if the person reinstalling them has a
    heavy hand and a long wrench.

    If they have been stretched to the point where the crank arm bolt bottoms
    out before it's tight that can be remedied with an additional washer under
    the bolt that has a hole large enough to fit over the spindle.

    Note that this can create a chain line problem on the right side if the
    crank moves too far inward.

    If they are really stretched and you are a large rider you may consider
    using them for show only. Stronglight 49 crank arms come up on ebay all of
    the time. BTW. they interchange with TA Cyclotouriste components. If you
    need BB parts, TA cups and spindles were better quality than Stronglight.

    With old cranks like yours periodically check them for cracks around the
    spindle and pedals.

    Chas.

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