Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Bottom Bracket Drag

Started by HarryB · · Last activity · 59 posts · 2,212 views

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
Cycling Equipment
Published
2 December 2006
Last activity
9 December 2006
Original author
HarryB
Posts
59
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
2,212
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 21–40 of 59
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. Lou Holtman said:
    Quoted message said:
    Lou Holtman said:

    [email hidden] wrote:

    > On Sun, 03 Dec 2006 23:48:19 +0100, Lou Holtman
    > <[email hidden]> wrote:
    >
    >
    >
    >> Tim McNamara wrote:
    >>
    >>
    >>> In article <[email hidden]>,
    >>> Lou Holtman <[email hidden]> wrote:
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>> Jim Higson wrote:
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>>> HarryB wrote:
    >>>>>
    >>>>>
    >>>>>
    >>>>>
    >>>>>> How much drag is considered normal for a cartridge bearing BB?
    >>>>>
    >>>>>
    >>>>> Don't know about normal, but if I give my cranks a good push
    >>>>> with no chain
    >>>>> connected they continue to spin for several minutes.
    >>>>>
    >>>>> Veloce cartridge BB (2006 model I think)
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>> Several minutes??? That's not normal.
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>
    >>> The Veloce bottom brackets are pretty smooth turning- smoother
    >>> than most of Campy's other BBs including (the last ones I tried)
    >>> Chorus and Record.
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >> We are talking of minutes. That is a very loooong time. I can't
    >> believe that.
    >> Last week I installed a Shimano XT hollotech II crankset (outboard
    >> bearings). I gave it a swing and it wouldn't turn even one
    >> revolution, but that's just the drag of the seals and you don't
    >> notice that while riding.
    >>
    >> Lou
    >
    >
    >
    > Dear Lou,
    >
    > For fun, I tested a 1998 Schwinn Le Tour triple with 170 mm cranks,
    > pretty much unused and bought for spares, a ten-year-old bottom of the
    > line example of a crank.
    >
    > With no pedals, the level crank will support two dimes over the left
    > pedal eye, but it starts to turn under the weight when a third dime is
    > added.
    >
    > According to the US Mint, a dime is around 2.268 grams, plus or minus
    > a smidgen for grime and wear:
    >
    > http://www.usmint.gov/about_the_mint/index.cfm?flash=yes&action=coin_specifications
    >
    >
    > So the initial bearing resistance (higher than the moving resistance)
    > is a bit less than 170 mm / 6 grams of torque, which works out to the
    > surprisingly high value of about 0.1 foot-lbs of torque.
    >
    > Bracing the frame and giving the pedals a brisk turn produces about 13
    > seconds of spin on average.
    >
    > Adding some light pedals increases the inertia and angular momentum
    > more than the wind drag and produces about 20 seconds of spin on
    > average.
    >
    > So maybe really smooth modern bearings can spin for minutes. I'd love
    > to see some quick and dirty tests involving how many coins (or half or
    > quarter coins) a level crank can support before it starts to turn.

    Carl, I gave my front wheel (with tire) with a recently overhauled
    and very smooth running Record hub a very firm spin (I hurt myself)
    and it stopped after 45 seconds. So I think 'several' minutes is a
    ridiculous claim.

    Lou

    Dear Lou,

    Since a front wheel is not a bottom bracket, the two may behave
    differently.
    For one thing, the wheel has considerably greater wind drag from all
    the spokes--you can feel the fan effect off to the side of a spun
    front wheel.
    The drag is partly due to the area of the spokes, which is
    surprisingly large. With ~275 mm of exposed spoke at mostly 1.8 mm for
    a butted spoke, each spoke has ~500 mm^2 of area. At 16 spokes, that's
    8,000 mm^2. For 32 spokes, it's 16,000 mm^2.

    The two 170 mm pedal arms on the crank that I tested are about 15 mm
    wide by 160 mm exposed length, so 2 x 15 x 160 = 4,800 mm^2. So the
    crank has considerably less raw fan surface than any normal spoked
    wheel.

    The other aspect of the wheel's increased wind drag is that the wheel
    is much larger in diameter and therefore spins the spokes at a much
    higher speed. About half the spoke length sticks out further than the
    crank, so at the same rpm the spoke travels faster--and wind drag
    rises wildly as speed increases.

    So wheels may not compare very well to cranks.

    In any case, your 45 second front wheel hand-spin turns out to be well
    under what can be achieved:

    "In one test, the wheel is accelerated to 70km/h before being
    released; time is recorded until it comes to a complete standstill.
    The best performing Cometes, used by Meares for her record, can spin
    for over 12 minutes."

    http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech.php?id=tech/2006/features/meares_bt_stealth

    So some front wheels can go over 720 seconds when spun up to about 43
    mph.

    Sorry that you hurt yourself, but it's unlikely that your hand-spin
    for 45 seconds reached even 20 mph.

    When I tested hand-spinning of front wheels, I found that about 15 mph
    was the maximum, due to the extremely limited span and awkward angle
    at which our arms engage wheels. Your hand must change direction 90
    degrees in only a quarter-turn of the wheel, so your hand comes off
    the wheel long before you reach even the speed of a casual
    stone-throw:

    http://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.tech/msg/9b36efb8133cd8a7

    The current RBT record for hand-spinning a 700c front wheel [modest
    cough] still stands at 16.2 mph.

    Anyway, my initial reaction was disbelief when a crank was said to
    spin for minutes, but I'm willing to be convinced. A 2006 crank,
    beautifully finished and designed and so forth, with heavy pedals,
    should certainly be able to beat my cheap 1998 test crank's 20 seconds
    with light pedals.

    I'd love to have someone with a nice new crank give it a whirl without
    the chain and report actual seconds.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

    OK I'm challenged. I now go back to my garage, remove the chain and spin
    my 2006 Campagnolo Carbon Compact crank, with smooth running Record BB.
    I'll be back..

    Lou

    OK I'm back. 25 seconds the first attempt and 26 seconds the second. The
    crankarm with the magnet for my cadence sensor ended up in the down
    position twice. Pedals: speedplay zero's. I'm not a gorilla so there are
    people who can spin a crankarm faster than I but 26 seconds is far
    enough of 'several' minutes. I'm done.
    Now I have dirty hands...

    Lou
    --
    Posted by news://news.nb.nu

  2. Quoted message said:
    Lou Holtman said:
    * * Chas said:

    "Lou Holtman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    >Jim Higson wrote:
    >
    >
    >>HarryB wrote:
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>>How much drag is considered normal for a cartridge bearing BB?
    >>
    >>
    >>Don't know about normal, but if I give my cranks a good push with no

    chain

    >>connected they continue to spin for several minutes.
    >>
    >>Veloce cartridge BB (2006 model I think)
    >>
    >
    >
    >Several minutes??? That's not normal.
    >
    >Lou
    >--

    Well, it depends on how heavy your chainrings are, just like the
    flywheel on a car. If you used nice heavy steel chainrings not the
    flimsy alloy [censored] you see today, then yes they could possibly keep
    spinning for quite some time.

    Oh please, alloy chainrings are fine. For several minutes spin time
    those clunky chainrings must be very heavy and large in diameter.

    Lou

    Dear Lou,

    Actually, heavy pedals would probably be more helpful, since they're
    further out and provide more angular momentum.

    When I attached some light pedals to my test crank, spin time
    increased about 50%, from around 13 seconds to over 20 seconds. The
    extra mass overwhelmed the increased wind drag.

    Yeah, yeah. We are talking about several MINUTES.

    Quoted message said:


    As always, I'm amused by the willingness of RBT posters to argue
    yes-it-does and no-it-can't without taking the trouble to do something
    as simple as testing how long a crank will spin.

    I did.

    Lou
    --
    Posted by news://news.nb.nu

  3. On Mon, 04 Dec 2006 19:11:53 +0100, Lou Holtman
    <[email hidden]> wrote:

    [Carl wrote]

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Dear Lou,

    Since a front wheel is not a bottom bracket, the two may behave
    differently.
    For one thing, the wheel has considerably greater wind drag from all
    the spokes--you can feel the fan effect off to the side of a spun
    front wheel.
    The drag is partly due to the area of the spokes, which is
    surprisingly large. With ~275 mm of exposed spoke at mostly 1.8 mm for
    a butted spoke, each spoke has ~500 mm^2 of area. At 16 spokes, that's
    8,000 mm^2. For 32 spokes, it's 16,000 mm^2.

    The two 170 mm pedal arms on the crank that I tested are about 15 mm
    wide by 160 mm exposed length, so 2 x 15 x 160 = 4,800 mm^2. So the
    crank has considerably less raw fan surface than any normal spoked
    wheel.

    The other aspect of the wheel's increased wind drag is that the wheel
    is much larger in diameter and therefore spins the spokes at a much
    higher speed. About half the spoke length sticks out further than the
    crank, so at the same rpm the spoke travels faster--and wind drag
    rises wildly as speed increases.

    So wheels may not compare very well to cranks.

    In any case, your 45 second front wheel hand-spin turns out to be well
    under what can be achieved:

    "In one test, the wheel is accelerated to 70km/h before being
    released; time is recorded until it comes to a complete standstill.
    The best performing Cometes, used by Meares for her record, can spin
    for over 12 minutes."

    http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech.php?id=tech/2006/features/meares_bt_stealth

    So some front wheels can go over 720 seconds when spun up to about 43
    mph.

    Sorry that you hurt yourself, but it's unlikely that your hand-spin
    for 45 seconds reached even 20 mph.

    When I tested hand-spinning of front wheels, I found that about 15 mph
    was the maximum, due to the extremely limited span and awkward angle
    at which our arms engage wheels. Your hand must change direction 90
    degrees in only a quarter-turn of the wheel, so your hand comes off
    the wheel long before you reach even the speed of a casual
    stone-throw:

    http://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.tech/msg/9b36efb8133cd8a7

    The current RBT record for hand-spinning a 700c front wheel [modest
    cough] still stands at 16.2 mph.

    Anyway, my initial reaction was disbelief when a crank was said to
    spin for minutes, but I'm willing to be convinced. A 2006 crank,
    beautifully finished and designed and so forth, with heavy pedals,
    should certainly be able to beat my cheap 1998 test crank's 20 seconds
    with light pedals.

    I'd love to have someone with a nice new crank give it a whirl without
    the chain and report actual seconds.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

    OK I'm challenged. I now go back to my garage, remove the chain and spin
    my 2006 Campagnolo Carbon Compact crank, with smooth running Record BB.
    I'll be back..

    Lou

    OK I'm back. 25 seconds the first attempt and 26 seconds the second. The
    crankarm with the magnet for my cadence sensor ended up in the down
    position twice. Pedals: speedplay zero's. I'm not a gorilla so there are
    people who can spin a crankarm faster than I but 26 seconds is far
    enough of 'several' minutes. I'm done.
    Now I have dirty hands...

    Lou

    Dear Lou,

    Probably no one can improve much on your spin. The distance from a
    standing start to where your hand comes off the pedal is so short that
    it's hard to improve the initial speed.

    You had pedals, so the extra mass was helping, and it sounds like the
    same year and company for the bottom bracket as the original claim of
    several minutes spin time, so 26 seconds seems to be a reasonable
    figure.

    Frankly, I'm relieved. Your 2006 Campy is a little better than my 1998
    Shimano, 26 seconds to 20 seconds, but there's apparently been no
    order of magnitude improvement in drag reduction for conventional
    bottom brackets.

    (Which would still be too small to matter.)

    Barring exciting developments from other competitors, you've convinced
    me that our initial skepticism was well founded. Maybe some outboard
    bearing design with ceramics and lead-weighted pedals would spin for
    minutes, but normal pedals seem to be closer to 0 than to 60 seconds.

    Thanks for taking the time to test the kind of silly thing that
    fascinates me. The local bike shops are idle right now, with the snowy
    streets, but they'd still probably refuse to let me remove chains on
    their new bikes just to test modern cranks.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  4. Lou Holtman said:

    Carl, I gave my front wheel (with tire) with a recently overhauled and
    very smooth running Record hub a very firm spin (I hurt myself) and it
    stopped after 45 seconds. So I think 'several' minutes is a ridiculous
    claim.

    I have found that I can get the BEST possible bearing adjustment by
    using a set of unbrazed dropouts I own, and adjusting the cones with
    the QR installed installed using standard tightness (finger tight on
    dropout faces at 90 degree angle) and tightened on the (solo)
    dropouts.

    In fact, people just cannot believe how far and how well my bike can
    coast when I am out on club rides with this 1970 bike.

    Perhaps Carl is doing something similer to get 100% perfect on-bike
    cone adjustment, yielding minutes of spinning time ??

    - Don Gillies
    San Diego, CA, USA

  5. Lou Holtman said:

    Carl, I gave my front wheel (with tire) with a recently overhauled and
    very smooth running Record hub a very firm spin (I hurt myself) and it
    stopped after 45 seconds. So I think 'several' minutes is a ridiculous
    claim.

    I just got 3.5 minutes from an Avanti hub + MA2 + light tyre, without trying
    very hard. Record hubs have /more/ drag, despite the higher cost, thanks to
    tighter seals (and maybe smaller balls as well?).

    I can't imagine any cranks spinning that long, though.

    ~PB

  6. Donald Gillies said:
    Quoted message said:

    Carl, I gave my front wheel (with tire) with a recently overhauled
    and very smooth running Record hub a very firm spin (I hurt myself)
    and it stopped after 45 seconds. So I think 'several' minutes is a
    ridiculous claim.

    Quoted message said:

    I have found that I can get the BEST possible bearing adjustment by
    using a set of unbrazed dropouts I own, and adjusting the cones with
    the QR installed installed using standard tightness (finger tight on
    dropout faces at 90 degree angle) and tightened on the (solo)
    dropouts.

    You're wasting your time. Adjust the wheel bearing a hair on the
    loose side and not that when you close the QR, it doesn't rattle.
    That's good enough.

    Quoted message said:

    In fact, people just cannot believe how far and how well my bike can
    coast when I am out on club rides with this 1970 bike.

    You are dreaming! Wind drag (your cross section to mass ratio) has
    many times more effect on coasting. 1970 has noting to do with that,
    nor does bearing adjustment. Even tires are lost in the wind assuming
    they are reasonably inflated and smooth.

    Quoted message said:

    Perhaps Carl is doing something similer to get 100% perfect on-bike
    cone adjustment, yielding minutes of spinning time ??

    I see religion everywhere. Have faith!

    Jobst Brandt

  7. "Lou Holtman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    * * Chas said:

    "Lou Holtman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Jim Higson wrote:

    >HarryB wrote:
    >
    >
    >
    >>How much drag is considered normal for a cartridge bearing BB?
    >
    >
    >Don't know about normal, but if I give my cranks a good push with no

    chain

    Quoted message said:

    >connected they continue to spin for several minutes.
    >
    >Veloce cartridge BB (2006 model I think)
    >

    Several minutes??? That's not normal.

    Lou
    --

    Well, it depends on how heavy your chainrings are, just like the
    flywheel on a car. If you used nice heavy steel chainrings not the
    flimsy alloy [censored] you see today, then yes they could possibly keep
    spinning for quite some time.

    Oh please, alloy chainrings are fine. For several minutes spin time
    those clunky chainrings must be very heavy and large in diameter.

    Lou
    --

    My precision counterbalanced heavy steel Astabula cranks and chainrings
    ride really smooth. Once you get the cadence up over 120 RPM, it keeps
    going and going and going, just like the Duracell Bunny!

    Chas.

  8. Pete Biggs said:
    Lou Holtman said:

    Carl, I gave my front wheel (with tire) with a recently overhauled and
    very smooth running Record hub a very firm spin (I hurt myself) and it
    stopped after 45 seconds. So I think 'several' minutes is a ridiculous
    claim.

    I just got 3.5 minutes from an Avanti hub + MA2 + light tyre, without trying
    very hard. Record hubs have /more/ drag, despite the higher cost, thanks to
    tighter seals (and maybe smaller balls as well?).

    I just overhauled the hub. So lots of grease and 15 small balls. 3.5
    minutes is a long time for a front wheel though. Any grease and seals in
    there?

    Lou

    --
    Posted by news://news.nb.nu

  9. Donald Gillies said:
    Lou Holtman said:

    Carl, I gave my front wheel (with tire) with a recently overhauled and
    very smooth running Record hub a very firm spin (I hurt myself) and it
    stopped after 45 seconds. So I think 'several' minutes is a ridiculous
    claim.

    I have found that I can get the BEST possible bearing adjustment by
    using a set of unbrazed dropouts I own, and adjusting the cones with
    the QR installed installed using standard tightness (finger tight on
    dropout faces at 90 degree angle) and tightened on the (solo)
    dropouts.

    You can adjust a Record/Chorus/Centaur hub with the wheel installed. You
    only need a 2.5 mm hex key. Nice feature.

    Lou
    --
    Posted by news://news.nb.nu

  10. * * Chas said:

    "Lou Holtman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    * * Chas said:

    "Lou Holtman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    >Jim Higson wrote:
    >
    >
    >>HarryB wrote:
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>>How much drag is considered normal for a cartridge bearing BB?
    >>
    >>
    >>Don't know about normal, but if I give my cranks a good push with no

    chain

    >>connected they continue to spin for several minutes.
    >>
    >>Veloce cartridge BB (2006 model I think)
    >>
    >
    >
    >Several minutes??? That's not normal.
    >
    >Lou
    >--

    Well, it depends on how heavy your chainrings are, just like the
    flywheel on a car. If you used nice heavy steel chainrings not the
    flimsy alloy [censored] you see today, then yes they could possibly keep
    spinning for quite some time.

    Oh please, alloy chainrings are fine. For several minutes spin time
    those clunky chainrings must be very heavy and large in diameter.

    Lou
    --

    My precision counterbalanced heavy steel Astabula cranks and chainrings
    ride really smooth. Once you get the cadence up over 120 RPM, it keeps
    going and going and going, just like the Duracell Bunny!

    Chas.

    I'm sure they do.

    Lou
    --
    Posted by news://news.nb.nu

  11. Lou Holtman said:
    Pete Biggs said:
    Lou Holtman said:

    Carl, I gave my front wheel (with tire) with a recently overhauled
    and very smooth running Record hub a very firm spin (I hurt myself)
    and it stopped after 45 seconds. So I think 'several' minutes is a
    ridiculous claim.

    I just got 3.5 minutes from an Avanti hub + MA2 + light tyre,
    without trying very hard. Record hubs have /more/ drag, despite the
    higher cost, thanks to tighter seals (and maybe smaller balls as
    well?).

    I just overhauled the hub. So lots of grease and 15 small balls. 3.5
    minutes is a long time for a front wheel though. Any grease and seals
    in there?

    My Avanti hub contains a normal amount of grease. The only seals are metal
    dustcaps that don't contact any moving part, unlike Record's gaskets.

    I also have wheels with Chorus hubs (similar to Record). They have never
    spun as freely. But they spin freely enough, and are lighter, easier to
    adjust and keep water out better.

    ~PB

  12. Quoted message said:

    Donald Gillies writes:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    In fact, people just cannot believe how far and how well my bike can
    coast when I am out on club rides with this 1970 bike.

    Quoted message said:

    You are dreaming! Wind drag (your cross section to mass ratio) has
    many times more effect on coasting. 1970 has noting to do with that,
    nor does bearing adjustment. Even tires are lost in the wind assuming
    they are reasonably inflated and smooth.

    You are not on those rides. I'm the youngest guy, aged 44 !! So,
    your contention that wind resistance is such a big factor going from
    15 mph to 0 mph is really rather silly, as are more and more of your
    recent posts ...

    - Don Gillies
    San Diego, CA

  13. On 4 Dec 2006 11:14:43 -0800, [email hidden] (Donald Gillies)

    Quoted message said:
    Lou Holtman said:

    Carl, I gave my front wheel (with tire) with a recently overhauled and
    very smooth running Record hub a very firm spin (I hurt myself) and it
    stopped after 45 seconds. So I think 'several' minutes is a ridiculous
    claim.

    I have found that I can get the BEST possible bearing adjustment by
    using a set of unbrazed dropouts I own, and adjusting the cones with
    the QR installed installed using standard tightness (finger tight on
    dropout faces at 90 degree angle) and tightened on the (solo)
    dropouts.

    In fact, people just cannot believe how far and how well my bike can
    coast when I am out on club rides with this 1970 bike.

    Perhaps Carl is doing something similer to get 100% perfect on-bike
    cone adjustment, yielding minutes of spinning time ??

    - Don Gillies
    San Diego, CA, USA

    Dear Don,

    There may be some misunderstanding. My crank spin time is the lowest
    mentioned so far in this thread.

    Jim Higson said that he got several minutes of spin from his Veloce
    cartridge BB (2006 model, he thought).

    Intrigued by his claim and Lou Holtman's you-gotta-be-kidding
    reaction, I descended to the Bat Cave and performed exhaustive
    experiments for several minutes.

    I got only 13 seconds of pedal spin out of an untouched and almost
    unused no-pedal 1998 Schwinn Le Tour purchased for parts on eBay.

    Adding light pedals increased my spin time about 50% to 20 seconds or
    so.

    I did cite some wheel tests by a race team, who spun wheels up to 70
    kph and timed the spindown to find the best wheel, which spun for over
    720 seconds:

    http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech.php?id=tech/2006/features/meares_bt_stealth

    But I've never timed front wheel spin-down time and doubt that my bike
    coasts particularly well. Its axle cones are cruelly neglected.

    However, I do [modest cough] hold the RBT record for pure speed
    produced by slapping, spinning, or heaving on a 700c front wheel, 16.2
    mph.

    I suspect that the race team testing front wheels produced their 70
    kph (43 mph) spin-speed either by using illegal substances or--even
    more shocking!--a power assist.

    In pursuit of the truth about bottom bracket spin time, Lou Holtman
    hurt himself and even got his hands dirty. His hand-spun 2006 Campy
    crank revolved for only about 25~26 seconds with pedals in place.

    This suggests that claims for several minutes of crank spin may be
    exaggerated and that Lou can make a 2006 Campy crank spin about 6
    seconds longer than I can make a 1998 Shimano crank spin.

    Maybe someone with an outboard bearing crank and ceramic bearings will
    astonish everyone with several minutes of spin time, but until it
    happens, Lou's test is the best data that we have in this crucial
    matter.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  14. I can imagine a well-lubricated steel crank (ashtabula or nervar /
    stronglight) spinning for a LONG time (minutes) with a perfectly
    adjusted loose-ball bottom bracket. I think I have done that
    experiment myself, maybe 30 years ago. When the mood takes me, i mix
    phil grease and oil 50-50 to get something a lot more slippery than
    standard bearing grease, but not usually for the bottom bracket ...

    I doubt that ANYTHING with a cartridge bottom bracket will last more
    than a minute. You can spin a cartridge in your finger to see why. I
    wouldn't be surprised if a standard cartridge bearing had 5x - 10x
    more friction than an oiled loose-ball bearing.

    Since wind resistence would play a small part in stopping a spinning
    crank arm, I'd guess that the weight of the chainwheel (angular
    momentum) and bearing friction could give a 10x - 20x advantage to a
    vintage steel crankset vs. a modern aluminum sealed one.

    As we all know, cartridge bearings can be used to make a cheaper
    bottom bracket but not a better bottom bracket.

    - Don Gillies
    San Diego, CA

  15. Donald Gillies said:

    I can imagine a well-lubricated steel crank (ashtabula or nervar /
    stronglight) spinning for a LONG time (minutes) with a perfectly
    adjusted loose-ball bottom bracket. I think I have done that
    experiment myself, maybe 30 years ago. When the mood takes me, i mix
    phil grease and oil 50-50 to get something a lot more slippery than
    standard bearing grease, but not usually for the bottom bracket ...

    I doubt that ANYTHING with a cartridge bottom bracket will last more
    than a minute. You can spin a cartridge in your finger to see why. I
    wouldn't be surprised if a standard cartridge bearing had 5x - 10x
    more friction than an oiled loose-ball bearing.

    Since wind resistence would play a small part in stopping a spinning
    crank arm, I'd guess that the weight of the chainwheel (angular
    momentum) and bearing friction could give a 10x - 20x advantage to a
    vintage steel crankset vs. a modern aluminum sealed one.

    As we all know, cartridge bearings can be used to make a cheaper
    bottom bracket but not a better bottom bracket.

    Unless you consider a "better bottom bracket" to be one that you do not
    have to repack every time it rains hard. Not that all cartridge bearing
    BB are that good at sealing out water, but most are better than my old
    NR BBs (even with those plastic sleeves). I also like not having to
    [censored] around with a pin spanner and toothed lock-ring wrench. I like the
    plug an play approach to BBs these days. Any seal drag is probably
    lost in the drive train drag -- but then who knows. Maybe I am burning
    up extra calories. Aha! A weight loss opportunity. Extra seals
    please! -- Jay Beattie.

  16. * * Chas said:


    "HarryB" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...


    [snip]

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    After the mechanic had finished the work and I was discussing with him
    that I was disappointed that the BB's still seemed tight, he said that
    he used a tool that cost upwards of $400. When I called back to find
    out exactly which tool had been used, the mechanic had gone home, but
    the person who answered the phone said it was a Park Tool.

    When I screw the BB into the shell, I can turn it in with my fingers
    until it bottoms out against the shell. The same for the other side
    (although it apparently bottoms out against a ridge in the BB, not
    against the BB shell.) It seems to me that if one of the threads was
    not cut square relative to the centerline of the BB or concentric
    relative to the other threads, that I wouldn't be able to screw both
    sides of the BB all the way in with my fingers.

    Harry

    There is a possibility that the BB cartridge is contacting a tube or tubes
    or a lump of braze protruding into the BB shell that doesn't get fully
    cleaned up with the thread chasers. When you tighten the BB cup this could
    be applying pressure to the OD of the BB cartridge causing a slight
    deflection. Look inside the BB shell to rule this out.

    BB tools like those made by Park are designed to work with a pilot and
    bushings or both chasing taps together to keep the tool aligned . I've
    seen guys who were lazy (I've done it myself) or didn't know better use
    the BB threading tool with one side only. Also, one side of the BB threads
    could be mis-aligned from the factory and the "mechanic" found it too hard
    to use both sides on the of the Park thread chasers to correct the
    problem... DOH!

    Check out the Park BB tools at these links to Park's web site:

    Facing Tool - there are detailed instructions on how to use both of these
    tools at this site:

    http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=25&item=BFS%2D1

    Threading Tool:

    http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=25&item=BTS%2D1

    I would take your tandem back to the shop and request to watch while they
    run the chasers through again.

    One other thing is the possibility of over torquing the cups. IRD
    recommends tightening their BBs to 24 to 30 Foot Lbs. of torque, Shimano
    21.6 to 29 Foot Lbs. of torque and Phil 25 Foot Lbs.

    If you don't have a torque wrench maybe you can borrow or rent one with
    the proper sized socket. A "good" bike shop should have a torque wrench
    since many of the newer BBs and crank arm need to be accurately tightened.

    Chas.


    Chas,

    I checked inside the shell and there is nothing protruding that could
    contact the BB.

    I called SRAM and talked with a tech support person who said that if
    the shell has been faced and chased that the drag I described is
    probably not unusual. He also said that if I spin the cranks and they
    continue to revolve one or two revolutions that may well be the best
    I'll get from this BB.

    I am also concerned about the proper torque. The BB tool that I have,
    a Park BBT8, is an eight sided socket that needs a crow's foot to work
    with a torque wrench - and although I have a couple of torque
    wrenches, I don't have a crow's foot. I have intentionally tightened
    the BB to what I think is a low torque and will see how it goes. If
    it's too loose I can always tighten it some more.

    I've decided to live with this amount of drag for the time being. For
    one thing, the "LBS" where I had the work done is about an
    hour-and-a-half's drive from my house. So, to return it there would
    consume a complete morning. And the other reason is that this tandem
    (a recumbent) is an experiment to see if we like it better than our
    present upright one. If we decide to keep it, I'll probably upgrade
    the BB in the future and deal with this issue at that time.

    Thanks for your help.

    Cheers,
    Harry

  17. Quoted message said:
    Lou Holtman said:
    Tim McNamara said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,
    Lou Holtman <[email hidden]> wrote:

    >Jim Higson wrote:
    >
    >>HarryB wrote:
    >>
    >>
    >>>How much drag is considered normal for a cartridge bearing BB?
    >>
    >>Don't know about normal, but if I give my cranks a good push with no chain
    >>connected they continue to spin for several minutes.
    >>
    >>Veloce cartridge BB (2006 model I think)
    >
    >
    >Several minutes??? That's not normal.

    The Veloce bottom brackets are pretty smooth turning- smoother than most
    of Campy's other BBs including (the last ones I tried) Chorus and Record.

    We are talking of minutes. That is a very loooong time. I can't believe
    that.
    Last week I installed a Shimano XT hollotech II crankset (outboard
    bearings). I gave it a swing and it wouldn't turn even one revolution,
    but that's just the drag of the seals and you don't notice that while
    riding.

    Lou

    Dear Lou,

    For fun, I tested a 1998 Schwinn Le Tour triple with 170 mm cranks,
    pretty much unused and bought for spares, a ten-year-old bottom of the
    line example of a crank.

    With no pedals, the level crank will support two dimes over the left
    pedal eye, but it starts to turn under the weight when a third dime is
    added.


    [snip]

    Quoted message said:


    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel


    Carl,

    That's an interesting way of checking the drag. Here are the results
    of one of the BB's in question using your method. "Tight" means
    tightened to guestimated torque while "loose" means finger tight:

    1) Both sides of BB tight: about 16 grams
    2) Drive side tight, adjustable cup loose: 6 grams
    3) Drive side loose, adjustable cup tight: 6 grams
    4) Both sides loose: 2.3 grams
    5) Both sides tight, but an extra spacer added to the non-drive side
    so that the adjustable cup bottoms out on the shell rather than the on
    the BB: 10 grams.

    I called SRAM and asked them about this. The tech person sort of said
    the same thing that the mechanic at the LBS said, namely that it
    really shouldn't be this way, but sometimes it just is. He also said
    that if I give the cranks a good push with the chain off, that if they
    continue to rotate for one-to-two revolutions that would not be
    abnormal.

    And, oh yes, he also said one other thing: he reminded me that this
    wasn't Campy equipment we're talking about.

    Cheers,
    Harry

  18. Pete Biggs said:
    Lou Holtman said:

    Carl, I gave my front wheel (with tire) with a recently overhauled and
    very smooth running Record hub a very firm spin (I hurt myself) and it
    stopped after 45 seconds. So I think 'several' minutes is a ridiculous
    claim.

    I just got 3.5 minutes from an Avanti hub + MA2 + light tyre, without trying
    very hard. Record hubs have /more/ drag, despite the higher cost, thanks to
    tighter seals (and maybe smaller balls as well?)....

    I managed to get about 70 seconds out of a wheel with a Phil Wood
    single-sided hub, 36-spoke, Alesa 219 rim with 35-305 tire. The
    "stroke" when spinning the wheel is so short that I could only get the
    speedometer up to about 8.5 mph.

    --
    Tom Sherman - Post Free or Die!

  19. HarryB said:
    * * Chas said:


    "HarryB" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...


    [snip]

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    After the mechanic had finished the work and I was discussing with him
    that I was disappointed that the BB's still seemed tight, he said that
    he used a tool that cost upwards of $400. When I called back to find
    out exactly which tool had been used, the mechanic had gone home, but
    the person who answered the phone said it was a Park Tool.

    When I screw the BB into the shell, I can turn it in with my fingers
    until it bottoms out against the shell. The same for the other side
    (although it apparently bottoms out against a ridge in the BB, not
    against the BB shell.) It seems to me that if one of the threads was
    not cut square relative to the centerline of the BB or concentric
    relative to the other threads, that I wouldn't be able to screw both
    sides of the BB all the way in with my fingers.

    Harry

    There is a possibility that the BB cartridge is contacting a tube or tubes
    or a lump of braze protruding into the BB shell that doesn't get fully
    cleaned up with the thread chasers. When you tighten the BB cup this could
    be applying pressure to the OD of the BB cartridge causing a slight
    deflection. Look inside the BB shell to rule this out.

    BB tools like those made by Park are designed to work with a pilot and
    bushings or both chasing taps together to keep the tool aligned . I've
    seen guys who were lazy (I've done it myself) or didn't know better use
    the BB threading tool with one side only. Also, one side of the BB threads
    could be mis-aligned from the factory and the "mechanic" found it too hard
    to use both sides on the of the Park thread chasers to correct the
    problem... DOH!

    Check out the Park BB tools at these links to Park's web site:

    Facing Tool - there are detailed instructions on how to use both of these
    tools at this site:

    http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=25&item=BFS%2D1

    Threading Tool:

    http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=25&item=BTS%2D1

    I would take your tandem back to the shop and request to watch while they
    run the chasers through again.

    One other thing is the possibility of over torquing the cups. IRD
    recommends tightening their BBs to 24 to 30 Foot Lbs. of torque, Shimano
    21.6 to 29 Foot Lbs. of torque and Phil 25 Foot Lbs.

    If you don't have a torque wrench maybe you can borrow or rent one with
    the proper sized socket. A "good" bike shop should have a torque wrench
    since many of the newer BBs and crank arm need to be accurately tightened.

    Chas.


    Chas,

    I checked inside the shell and there is nothing protruding that could
    contact the BB.

    I called SRAM and talked with a tech support person who said that if
    the shell has been faced and chased that the drag I described is
    probably not unusual. He also said that if I spin the cranks and they
    continue to revolve one or two revolutions that may well be the best
    I'll get from this BB.

    I am also concerned about the proper torque. The BB tool that I have,
    a Park BBT8, is an eight sided socket that needs a crow's foot to work
    with a torque wrench - and although I have a couple of torque
    wrenches, I don't have a crow's foot. I have intentionally tightened
    the BB to what I think is a low torque and will see how it goes. If
    it's too loose I can always tighten it some more.

    I've decided to live with this amount of drag for the time being. For
    one thing, the "LBS" where I had the work done is about an
    hour-and-a-half's drive from my house. So, to return it there would
    consume a complete morning. And the other reason is that this tandem
    (a recumbent) is an experiment to see if we like it better than our
    present upright one. If we decide to keep it, I'll probably upgrade
    the BB in the future and deal with this issue at that time.

    Thanks for your help.

    Those BBs also have o-rings and spacers between the flange and the BB
    shell. Are any of those missing/needed? If one is needed and missing,
    that might account for some end loading. Also, some BBs can get binding
    at low torque when the bearings don't seat in to the left cup/ring.
    Make sure that area is greased. BTW, I hate that notched retaining
    ring BBT8, which I am going to have to buy to work on my POS Truvativ
    BB - which is creaking, groaning and snapping all of the time, although
    it still spins O.K. -- Jay Beattie.

  20. In article <[email hidden]>,
    "Pete Biggs"
    <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:
    Lou Holtman said:

    Carl, I gave my front wheel (with tire) with a recently overhauled and
    very smooth running Record hub a very firm spin (I hurt myself) and it
    stopped after 45 seconds. So I think 'several' minutes is a ridiculous
    claim.

    I just got 3.5 minutes from an Avanti hub + MA2 + light tyre, without trying
    very hard. Record hubs have /more/ drag, despite the higher cost, thanks to
    tighter seals (and maybe smaller balls as well?).

    I can't imagine any cranks spinning that long, though.

    Campagnolo NR, D-ring, cup and cone hub.
    630x28 slick tire.
    17 km/hr. 160 sec.

    --
    Michael Press

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.