165 lb XC hard-tailed speed freak on the East Coast. I hit the rocks in Ringwood, NJ and the trails in VT. Nothing more than the occasional 2-3 foot drop in terms of pure air.
Im concerned with strength and sidewall wear (running XTR V- brakes) so any comments on these two factors with either of these two hoops would be great!
165 lb XC hard-tailed speed freak on the East Coast. I hit the rocks in Ringwood, NJ and the trails in VT. Nothing more than the occasional 2-3 foot drop in terms of pure air.
Im concerned with strength and sidewall wear (running XTR V- brakes) so any comments on these two factors with either of these two hoops would be great!
Im going to lace these to King Hubs.
Thanks!!!
Rich
I've used both and they are very similar. The Valiant is sold as the light weight version, but due to inconsistent manufacturing, the weights vary widely. Go with the ceramic coated Valiant and you'll worry less about rim wear.
I've used both and they are very similar. The Valiant is sold as the light weight version, but due to inconsistent manufacturing, the weights vary widely. Go with the ceramic coated Valiant and you'll worry less about rim wear.
Im leaning towards the Valiants due to the ceramic sidewalls. KB stopped making the Stangs in ceramic, which irritates me, but oh well.
Im going for a strong, light rim that will LAST, catastrophic crashes and bashes aside. I really dont want to dump $300 in rims every 18 months. I know the Valiants are the lighter and weaker of the two, but by how much. Im 165 LB and Im riding a hardtail on the East Coast. Lots of roots and rocks and 2-3 foot drops. Im not terribly hard on rims. The stock Rolf Satellites I had lasted three years without a problem except sidewall wear.
I've used both and they are very similar. The Valiant is sold as the light weight version, but due to inconsistent manufacturing, the weights vary widely. Go with the ceramic coated Valiant and you'll worry less about rim wear.
Im leaning towards the Valiants due to the ceramic sidewalls. KB stopped making the Stangs in ceramic, which irritates me, but oh well.
Im going for a strong, light rim that will LAST, catastrophic crashes and bashes aside. I really dont want to dump $300 in rims every 18 months. I know the Valiants are the lighter and weaker of the two, but by how much. Im 165 LB and Im riding a hardtail on the East Coast. Lots of roots and rocks and 2-3 foot drops. Im not terribly hard on rims. The stock Rolf Satellites I had lasted three years without a problem except sidewall wear.
Which way should I go here??
I was considering the same 2 rims and the head wrench that my local LBS warned me that he would only use the Valiant for really light or easy riders -- he likes to build wheels and most of his comments are dead-on.
I went with the Mustang assym and the rear only lasted about 3k miles before splitting around the middle (between spoke holes, inside under the rim tape). I should mention that this seems to be a problem that I've had -- every rim that I've owned has done this, so it may not be the Mustang 🙂. That is, except my current Mavic F219 which has lasted the longest of any rear rim for me -- but it's disc specific, and the F519 that I tried before the Mustang did split the same way. YMMV.
I went with the Mustang assym and the rear only lasted about 3k miles before splitting around the middle (between spoke holes, inside under the rim tape). I should mention that this seems to be a problem that I've had -- every rim that I've owned has done this, so it may not be the Mustang 🙂. That is, except my current Mavic F219 which has lasted the longest of any rear rim for me -- but it's disc specific, and the F519 that I tried before the Mustang did split the same way. YMMV.
I'm curious as to whether or not you buy anodized (non silver) rims. It's been my experience that non-anodized rims almost never crack, while anodized rims do quite often.
I went with the Mustang assym and the rear only lasted about 3k miles before splitting around the middle (between spoke holes, inside under the rim tape). I should mention that this seems to be a problem that I've had -- every rim that I've owned has done this, so it may not be the Mustang 🙂. That is, except my current Mavic F219 which has lasted the longest of any rear rim for me -- but it's disc specific, and the F519 that I tried before the Mustang did split the same way. YMMV.
I'm curious as to whether or not you buy anodized (non silver) rims. It's been my experience that non-anodized rims almost never crack, while anodized rims do quite often.
Black, anodized. I've been told that Mavic had problems with their anodization process which is one of the reasons that I went to the Mustangs. If this latest rim goes as fast as the others (it's at just over 4k-miles, about the failure time of the others), I'm going to go with a silver Sun Rhino Lite next -- or just start considering the rims to be yet another "consumable" part that I replace on a semiregular basis. I hate to say it, but I just like the way that black rims look on my bike 🙂.
I'm curious as to whether or not you buy anodized (non silver) rims. It's been my experience that non-anodized rims almost never crack, while anodized rims do quite often.
Quoted message said:
Black, anodized. I've been told that Mavic had problems with their anodization process which is one of the reasons that I went to the Mustangs. If this latest rim goes as fast as the others (it's at just over 4k-miles, about the failure time of the others), I'm going to go with a silver Sun Rhino Lite next -- or just start considering the rims to be yet another "consumable" part that I replace on a semiregular basis. I hate to say it, but I just like the way that black rims look on my bike 🙂.
You could use a magic marker! ;-)
The anodizing layer is VERY thin, but is also very brittle. It cracks (teeny little microscopic cracks) and that tends to concentrate the normal stresses around the spoke holes at those cracks. That can cause the crack to spread to the underlying aluminum rim.
I predict that Rhino Lite will last a good long while.