Bike selection

maxo said:

This is the kind of bike that'll get you hooked on cycling. You'll buy it,
and fall it love with its ease and ability to cruise up to (in my world)
twenty miles with comfort. Then you might covet something a little
sportier--but you'll never stop riding your sweet sweet Nexus internal
gear bike

I agree, bought one couple months ago, your comments are right on with mine. The Nexus
internal shifter is so easy to use, shift while stopped.

Love my Milano. Black paint job. My first bike in 27 years, and glad I'm riding again, I
am 48.

---
"BitwiseBob" - Bob Anderson
Eugene Oregon

amh said:

Look around for what is available at a garage sale. If you end up
riding you can always upgrade. And if you don't you haven't spent a
lot of dollars. In the end it is the components that make up the bulk
of reliability. The frame will be fine long after the derailer needs
service. Therefore go with a frame that you feel comfortable on and
that has good componants. Either Shimano or Campy will do you good.

One problem with that -- yard sale road bikes are cheap for
good/excellent quality, and readily available. MTBs, currently much
more popular, are fewer and far between. I lucked out and got a really
nice nearly-new KHS MTB with Deore LX/XT bits and pieces for $100 when
my Trek 830 was stolen, but haven't seen anything that good/cheap for
years. Saw a really nice Gary Fisher front suspension bike for $250 a
couple of weeks ago, but didn't need it.

Luck plays a big part, and if you don't live where there are lots of
sales to hit and you're in a reasonable hurry, check out the Motivs at
Costco. You'll probably have to reassemble the one you get, but the
quality seems good for the price.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Road bikes seem out of the question due to the durability issue, but
is there a real difference between hybrids and mountain bikes for my
described use (or associated premium with one or the other)?

All bikes manufactured these days are pretty reliable (excepting
k-mart specials and such). If your frame breaks then it is a fault of
the manufacturer. A typical road frame will be able to take the abuse
you'd likely give it on your 10 mile jaunts.

The largest real difference in your application is the wheel size
between a mountain bike and a hybrid. Mountain bikes use smaller
diameter wheels. While a hybrid will use a larger diameter wheel.
Mountain bikes will usually be sold with knobby tires which slow you
down on pavement.

I replaced my slick-in-the-middle knobs-on-the-side Conti Goliath with a
cheap MTB tire with a smooth raised strip in the middle for
road-riding. Not as nice, but it works OK and the whole point of the
exercise is exercise, right?

Quoted message said:

Hybrids tend to be sold with a light tread or slick
tire which roll better on pavement. Don't get a bike with heavy duty
shocks. You won't need them on the road.

If I

Quoted message said:

find myself using it regularly, I will invest in a custom bike, but
for now I'd like to investigate various models, brands, etc.

Off the top of my head well known brands are Trek, Cannondale, GT,
Giant.

Enjoy the ride,
Andy

Quoted message said:

Thank you for your thoughts,
Dave

--
Cheers, Bev
==============================================================
"Arguing on the internet is like running a race in the Special
Olympics: even if you win, you're still retarded."

Raoul Duke said:

"Just zis Guy, you know?" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Man, that is the exact opposite of the truth! If you want comfort you
need to leave the uprights behind entirely!

Couldn't agree more. I had no idea what was comfort was on a bicycle until
I got my road bike last Feb.

I think it all depends on your personal body configuration. My sit-bone
shape guarantees pain SOMEWHERE whenever I lean forward no matter what
kind of seat I try -- and I've tried lots. Second best so far is a
traditional Brooks, first best is a Terry clone. Third best is
something I hacked the middle out of and covered with cloth from an old
pair of bike shorts.

--
Cheers, Bev
==============================================================
"Arguing on the internet is like running a race in the Special
Olympics: even if you win, you're still retarded."

"Churchill" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Wally-Mart may has decent bikes for starters, depends on what you are
looking for.

Bicycle-shaped toys are not "decent".

JD

[email hidden] (supabonbon) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

[email hidden] (JD) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Bob Anderson <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

On 11 Jul 2004 15:31:24 -0700, [email hidden] (Dave) wrote:

>- I would like a bike that would be comfortable for 10 mile jaunts on
>relatively flat, northeast (US) pavement and be durable enough for
>less-than-ideal road/weather conditions and path/trail riding.

http://www.bianchiusa.com/milano.html

Too expensive. This would work well for much less:
http://www.electrabike.com/04/bikes/essential/ess_12.html

JD

That wheelbase is way too short:
http://www.kustomkruiser.com/catalog/roadster.html
/s

uncomfortable = non-functional art

JD

How about the "full suspension" bikes.

I have a Trek Navigator that still sends impact up my spine - will all of the
geometry and springs lessen the road shock, or is it just a good idea that
doesn't work?

Maybe I just need a better shock absorbing seat post. (?).

RRon
[email hidden]

On Mon, 12 Jul 2004 18:42:57 -0700, The Real Bev
<[email hidden]> wrote in message
<[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

I think it all depends on your personal body configuration. My sit-bone
shape guarantees pain SOMEWHERE whenever I lean forward no matter what
kind of seat I try -- and I've tried lots. Second best so far is a
traditional Brooks, first best is a Terry clone. Third best is
something I hacked the middle out of and covered with cloth from an old
pair of bike shorts.

And first best, of course, is a Proper Bicycle, not one of those
wedgie stick-bike abominations :-)

<url:http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk/web/public.nsf/Documents/bike_optima_stinger>

Guy
--
May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk

88% of helmet statistics are made up, 65% of them at Washington University

GHOF said:

Maybe I just need a better shock absorbing seat post. (?).

Worth checking out, also look at sprung saddles like some of the Brooks
models.

I had the same problem with my Marin San Anselmo (now MIA) and it was due
to the bike being extremely overbuilt and stiff. This was great when
hauling gear--there wasn't a load the bike couldn't carry, if I could get
it on the rack, and when a car threw my bike 15 feet in the air (I landed
on my feet!), all the guy managed to do was crumple a fender LOL. I
compensated with a Brooks saddle (there are other options of course) and
running 700x37 tires at 50-60 psi.

I ride a thin wall steel frame now and it's brilliant. Aluminum can be
made to be pretty comfy too, but such bikes tend to be spendy.

As to full suspension on the road? I find it to be heavy and squidgy
feeling. Go for the saddle/post/tire fix.

(GHOF) said:

How about the "full suspension" bikes.

Maybe I just need a better shock absorbing seat post. (?).

If all you want is additional comfort, the seatpost is the way to
go. If you're not too heavy, a Thudbuster will be sufficiently
plush. I'm 210 pounds, and break thudbusters with rough off-road
riding.

FS is good for handling on rough terrain at high speeds. I rarely
achieve high speeds on rough terrain.
--
Rick Onanian

In article <[email hidden]>,

(GHOF) said:

How about the "full suspension" bikes.

I have a Trek Navigator that still sends impact up my spine - will all of the
geometry and springs lessen the road shock, or is it just a good idea that
doesn't work?

Maybe I just need a better shock absorbing seat post. (?).

Elbows & knees make pretty good shocks. I don't use any
bicycle suspension. If I see a rough spot coming up, I
just set my cranks horizontal and straighten my gams at
least enough to lift my butt off the saddle, and sail
lightly over the rough stuff, letting my elbows & knees
deal with the roughness.

Never be nailed down to the saddle. That's tantamount to
trying to turn it into a chair.

cheers,
Tom

--
-- Powered by FreeBSD
Above address is just a spam midden.
I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>
> >- I would like a bike that would be comfortable for 10 mile jaunts on
> >relatively flat, northeast (US) pavement and be durable enough for
> >less-than-ideal road/weather conditions and path/trail riding.
>
> http://www.bianchiusa.com/milano.html

Too expensive. This would work well for much less:
http://www.electrabike.com/04/bikes/essential/ess_12.html

JD

That wheelbase is way too short:
http://www.kustomkruiser.com/catalog/roadster.html
/s

uncomfortable = non-functional art

I think you just described womens shoes, which of course leads back to
the Milano.

Bruce

NotaKnob <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> >
> > >- I would like a bike that would be comfortable for 10 mile jaunts on
> > >relatively flat, northeast (US) pavement and be durable enough for
> > >less-than-ideal road/weather conditions and path/trail riding.
> >
> > http://www.bianchiusa.com/milano.html
>
> Too expensive. This would work well for much less:
> http://www.electrabike.com/04/bikes/essential/ess_12.html
>
> JD

That wheelbase is way too short:
http://www.kustomkruiser.com/catalog/roadster.html
/s

uncomfortable = non-functional art

I think you just described womens shoes, which of course leads back to
the Milano.

Bruce

That is unless they are comfortable womens shoes. Not that there's
anything wrong with that...

JD

"JD" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

NotaKnob <[email hidden]> wrote in message

news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

> > >
> > > >- I would like a bike that would be comfortable for 10 mile

jaunts on

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> > > >relatively flat, northeast (US) pavement and be durable enough

for

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> > > >less-than-ideal road/weather conditions and path/trail riding.
> > >
> > > http://www.bianchiusa.com/milano.html
> >
> > Too expensive. This would work well for much less:
> > http://www.electrabike.com/04/bikes/essential/ess_12.html
> >
> > JD
>
> That wheelbase is way too short:
> http://www.kustomkruiser.com/catalog/roadster.html
> /s

uncomfortable = non-functional art

I think you just described womens shoes, which of course leads back to
the Milano.

Bruce

That is unless they are comfortable womens shoes. Not that there's
anything wrong with that...

JD

Tutu predictable...

Shaun aRe

I appreciate all of the feedback and have been touring some of the
bike shops this week. It seems that the "consensus" from the local
shops has been that these are the suggested models"

Giant Cypress ST
Giant Cypress DX
Giant Cypress
Specialized Crossroads
Giant Boulder

The order of price:
Cypress ST (lowest)
Boulder
Cypress & Crossroads
Cypress DX.

The DX is probably out of my range right now. The others are between
$220 and $300.

I have also read that if the Cypress is chosen, that I should look
into a deraillier upgrade.

Does anyone have any thoughts on these models? I have googled the
models and read what I could find in online reviews, but was wondering
if anyone had their own pro/con list.

I've got two other shops to check out (for Trek and Diamondback), and
will probably be narrowing the search over the next week to take a
second test ride (in addition to checking out this week's
classifieds...although most of those seem to be Huffy and other retail
brands).

Thank you,
Dave

"Dave" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Road bikes seem out of the question due to the durability issue,

What durability issue? I just "retired" a late 1970's Schwinn Sprint, but
still own a 1976 Schwinn Super LeTour. Rode a century on it earlier in the
month. Road bikes are pretty durable, unless you are trying to save weight
at any cost for racing purposes.

Road tires are generally thinner, and therefore more prone to flats, but
good tires and maybe tire liners can minimize this problem.

If by "trails" you mean crushed limestone or dirt, though, you will be
happier with wider tires.

"Mike Kruger" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

"Dave" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Road bikes seem out of the question due to the durability issue,

What durability issue? I just "retired" a late 1970's Schwinn Sprint, but
still own a 1976 Schwinn Super LeTour. Rode a century on it earlier in the
month. Road bikes are pretty durable, unless you are trying to save weight
at any cost for racing purposes.

Road tires are generally thinner, and therefore more prone to flats, but
good tires and maybe tire liners can minimize this problem.

If by "trails" you mean crushed limestone or dirt, though, you will be
happier with wider tires.

No offense intended. Actually, after riding many of the bikes in my
original list and bouncing a little high/low with the style and price
range, I found that I didn't particularly care for them (the "comfort"
bikes) and was considering going back to a road bike...that was, until
the majority of bike shops mentioned that they start at $550+ which,
at this time, is out of my price range.

After touring many shops, reading the classifieds, posting to usenet,
talking with the patrons and employees and test riding the bikes, I
ended up buying a Raleigh M20. It wasn't on my original list, nor was
it within my original scope, but it "felt" right and was within my
price range (actually, I got it on sale so it was even less than the
original price range). Sure, it is on the low end of the scale, but
my intent is to get my foot in the door and then when I find that I
deserve a quality bike, I will make a serious investment.

I had a tough time deciding between certain features, but this was the
best starting point for me. Sure, I liked various attributes of
others and could have swapped and matched components, but this was a
"best fit" for a relatively inexpensive price. When I decide to
invest into "my" bike, I will be more selective. :-)

I appreciate all the feedback and will contribute the pros/cons for
others to reference.

Thank you,
Dave