Are there any recommendations for bike 'bodywork protection'?
Argos have just replaced my bike cos of a bottom bracket problem & in the four months I had the first one a number of fittings began to rust etc..
Are there any products which will apply a protective film? Is 'polishing' the frame with some kind of wax polish a good idea?
Any thoughts (or weblinks) would be welcome!
Thanks in advance,
--
John Latter
Model of an Internal Evolutionary Mechanism (based on an extension to homeostasis) linking Stationary-Phase Mutations to the Baldwin Effect. members.aol.comTEM.htmlOpen ↗
Are there any recommendations for bike 'bodywork protection'?
Argos have just replaced my bike cos of a bottom bracket problem & in the four months I had the first one a number of fittings began to rust etc..
Keep it somewhere dry! Wax protects the paint from dulling but isn't much good for serious rust protection. That depends on how goo the paint is in the first place.
Even if it's unsightly, bike frames very rarely fail due to rust.
How on earth do bikes rust under paint? Even my old [censored] Halfords bike that's been lying around for years hasn't rusted. I'd expect the mechanical bits to rust a bit if they don't have any oil on them, but the painted frame shouldn't be rusting unless you've chipped it. Unless of course, argos make their bikes from recycled Fiats...
They can look a mess under the BB and chainstays after a few years, but nothing that sandblasting and re-enamelling won't cure. Reynolds 531 tube may be thin at 0.7mm, but that's a lot more than a car body panel!
"Doki" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
the painted frame shouldn't be rusting unless you've chipped it. Unless of course, argos
make
Quoted message said:
their bikes from recycled Fiats...
...which they probably do.
Quoted message said:
I reckon the best bet is to oil / grease the mechanical bits, and avoid
WD40
Quoted message said:
as it's not a lubricant and is too thin to hold onto anything.
WD40 *is* light, *isn't* a brilliant lube, but *does* inhibit corrosion. If you don't mind using it by the gallon, spraying your bike all over (not too much on the brake tracks!!) will help prevent damage from salt, which is the killer at this time of year. Better is to clean (and re lube) your bike thoroughly - but that tends to slip after a while...
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On Sun, 14 Mar 2004 19:22:33 +0000, in <4054b0ff.0@entanet>, Zog The
Undeniable said:
Doki said:
How on earth do bikes rust under paint? Even my old [censored] Halfords bike that's been lying around for years hasn't rusted. I'd expect the mechanical bits to rust a bit if they don't have any oil on them, but the painted frame shouldn't be rusting unless you've chipped it. Unless of course, argos make their bikes from recycled Fiats...
They can look a mess under the BB and chainstays after a few years, but nothing that sandblasting and re-enamelling won't cure. Reynolds 531 tube may be thin at 0.7mm, but that's a lot more than a car body panel!
OMG, bike tubing can be that thin? I'm glad I ride bikes made from scaffolding then - I'd be scared of crushing Reynolds when I picked it up!
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"Richard Bates" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
On Sun, 14 Mar 2004 19:22:33 +0000, in <4054b0ff.0@entanet>, Zog The Undeniable
Quoted message said:
Doki said:
How on earth do bikes rust under paint? Even my old [censored] Halfords bike that's been lying around for years hasn't rusted. I'd expect the
mechanical
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
bits to rust a bit if they don't have any oil on them, but the painted
frame
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
shouldn't be rusting unless you've chipped it. Unless of course, argos
make
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
their bikes from recycled Fiats...
They can look a mess under the BB and chainstays after a few years, but nothing that sandblasting and re- enamelling won't cure. Reynolds 531 tube may be thin at 0.7mm, but that's a lot more than a car body panel!
OMG, bike tubing can be that thin? I'm glad I ride bikes made from scaffolding then - I'd be scared of crushing Reynolds when I picked it up!
R.753 used to be 0.3mm at the centre, from memory. Harder to bend than your "scaffolding", probably - but very easy to dent! (And not very fond of being allowed to rust, either - one of my very pampered road bikes rusted right through a chainstay a few years back.)
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Silicon polish. Don't clean my bikes all that often (to put it mildly) but with a good coat of silicon polish most grime just falls of again, and what does adhere is much easier to remove (eventually).
On Sun, 14 Mar 2004 13:43:07 +0000, John Latter <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:
Hi,
Are there any recommendations for bike 'bodywork protection'?
Argos have just replaced my bike cos of a bottom bracket problem & in the four months I had the first one a number of fittings began to rust etc..
Are there any products which will apply a protective film? Is 'polishing' the frame with some kind of wax polish a good idea?
Any thoughts (or weblinks) would be welcome!
Thanks in advance,
Just remembered that when I used to drive a car (a long time ago) there was a product called "Damp Start" which put a 'thickish' film over the distributor & spark plugs - I'll pop into Halfords tomorrow & see if it (or something similar) is available.
From the comments people have made there doesn't seem to be much need to use a car-type wax on the bodywork (although it was the 'fittings' - eg bottle cage nuts/twistgrip nuts - that I was also interested in).
--
John Latter
Model of an Internal Evolutionary Mechanism (based on an extension to homeostasis) linking Stationary-Phase Mutations to the Baldwin Effect. members.aol.comTEM.htmlOpen ↗
On Sun, 14 Mar 2004 23:54:02 +0100, Mark van Gorkom <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:
Silicon polish. Don't clean my bikes all that often (to put it mildly) but with a good coat of silicon polish most grime just falls of again, and what does adhere is much easier to remove (eventually).
Mark van Gorkom.
Thanks Mark!
--
John Latter
Model of an Internal Evolutionary Mechanism (based on an extension to homeostasis) linking Stationary-Phase Mutations to the Baldwin Effect. members.aol.comTEM.htmlOpen ↗
Silicon polish. Don't clean my bikes all that often (to put it mildly) but with a good coat of silicon polish most grime just falls of again, and what does adhere is much easier to remove (eventually).
Are there any problems if you need to get it re-enamelled / painted like there are on cars?
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 00:25:53 -0000, "Doki" <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:
John Latter said:
Just remembered that when I used to drive a car (a long time ago) there was a product called "Damp Start" which put a 'thickish' film over the distributor & spark plugs - I'll pop into Halfords tomorrow & see if it (or something similar) is available.
From the comments people have made there doesn't seem to be much need to use a car-type wax on the bodywork (although it was the 'fittings' - eg bottle cage nuts/twistgrip nuts - that I was also interested in).
I just stuck copper grease on my quick releases that were looking a bit rusty. It'll do the job and I had some lying around.
Thanks Doki - it may be worth my while indulging in some form of preventive maintenance then (it's not exavtly an expensive bike - £128.99 - so I guess economies had to be made somewhere!).
--
John Latter
Model of an Internal Evolutionary Mechanism (based on an extension to homeostasis) linking Stationary-Phase Mutations to the Baldwin Effect. members.aol.comTEM.htmlOpen ↗
Just remembered that when I used to drive a car (a long time ago) there was a product called "Damp Start" which put a 'thickish' film over the distributor & spark plugs - I'll pop into Halfords tomorrow & see if it (or something similar) is available.
I don't think that kind of stuff is necessary or good on a bicycle that is to be ridden as dirt will stick to it horribly. Might be good to coat certain parts if bike is to be left unused in shed for ages, etc - but then vaseline would do for that.
Quoted message said:
From the comments people have made there doesn't seem to be much need to use a car-type wax on the bodywork (although it was the 'fittings' - eg bottle cage nuts/twistgrip nuts - that I was also interested in).
Most bolts can be replaced with stainless steel types if you like, which obviously won't rust. Alternatively, try and keep all vulnerable metal surfaces as clean and dry as possible. Wiping nuts & bolt heads with an oily rag or cotton bud can clean/prevent rust there - although any slight corrosion that does appear probably won't do any harm. Many of the larger metal components won't rust or corrode as they'll be coated (most modern aluminium parts are anodised, for instance).
Bearings should serviced every so often; all bolt threads, seatpost and quill stem shaft should be kept greased.
Just remembered that when I used to drive a car (a long time ago) there was a product called "Damp Start" which put a 'thickish' film over the distributor & spark plugs - I'll pop into Halfords tomorrow & see if it (or something similar) is available.
I don't think that kind of stuff is necessary or good on a bicycle that is to be ridden as dirt will stick to it horribly. Might be good to coat certain parts if bike is to be left unused in shed for ages, etc - but then vaseline would do for that.
Quoted message said:
From the comments people have made there doesn't seem to be much need to use a car-type wax on the bodywork (although it was the 'fittings' - eg bottle cage nuts/twistgrip nuts - that I was also interested in).
Most bolts can be replaced with stainless steel types if you like, which obviously won't rust. Alternatively, try and keep all vulnerable metal surfaces as clean and dry as possible. Wiping nuts & bolt heads with an oily rag or cotton bud can clean/prevent rust there - although any slight corrosion that does appear probably won't do any harm. Many of the larger metal components won't rust or corrode as they'll be coated (most modern aluminium parts are anodised, for instance).
Bearings should serviced every so often; all bolt threads, seatpost and quill stem shaft should be kept greased.
~PB
Thanks for the advice Pete, along with the other comments that have been made I think I've got a better idea how to look after my bike this time!
--
John Latter
Model of an Internal Evolutionary Mechanism (based on an extension to homeostasis) linking Stationary-Phase Mutations to the Baldwin Effect. members.aol.comTEM.htmlOpen ↗
