Bigger disc brake

On Tue, 19 Jun 2007 12:38:37 -0700, Graham FM <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Folks,
i've a Hope Disc brake with a 6" rotor and and i am thinking of
buying the fork adapter and an 8" rotor for more breaking power.Will i
get
it?
Any feedback welcome,regards

Yes
--
Slack

â–€Slack said:

On Tue, 19 Jun 2007 12:38:37 -0700, Graham FM <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Folks,
i've a Hope Disc brake with a 6" rotor and and i am thinking of
buying the fork adapter and an 8" rotor for more breaking power.Will i
get
it?
Any feedback welcome,regards

Yes

First I would ask which hopes minis,m4s or m-6s and what kid of riding
free ride down hill or xc if XC changing the type of pads used was all
my minis needed for extra braking

Graham FM said:

Folks,
i've a Hope Disc brake with a 6" rotor and and i am thinking of
buying the fork adapter and an 8" rotor for more breaking power.Will
i get it or will i be wasting my money?
Any feedback welcome,regards

Size matters. 8" is better than 6.

Bill "that's what Vandem@n's mother always said" S.

"Graham FM" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Folks,
i've a Hope Disc brake with a 6" rotor and and i am thinking of
buying the fork adapter and an 8" rotor for more breaking power.Will i get
it or will i be wasting my money?
Any feedback welcome,regards

Check with the fork manufacturer to see if the fork can handle the extra width rotor.

Graham FM said:

i've a Hope Disc brake with a 6" rotor and and i am thinking of
buying the fork adapter and an 8" rotor for more breaking power.Will i get
it or will i be wasting my money?

What makes you think you will get more "braking power" (whatever that
is) with an 8" rotor?

CC

Corvus Corvax said:

Graham FM said:

i've a Hope Disc brake with a 6" rotor and and i am thinking of
buying the fork adapter and an 8" rotor for more breaking power.Will i get
it or will i be wasting my money?

What makes you think you will get more "braking power" (whatever that
is) with an 8" rotor?

CC

What? Did you fail mathematics at school??

Marz said:

Corvus Corvax said:

What makes you think you will get more "braking power" (whatever that
is) with an 8" rotor?

What? Did you fail mathematics at school??

Please enlighten me: clearly define braking power, and explain why an
8" rotor gives you more of it than a 6" rotor.

CC

In message <[email hidden]>,
Corvus Corvax <[email hidden]> writes

Quoted message said:

What makes you think you will get more "braking power" (whatever that
is) with an 8" rotor?

Ya cannae change the laws of physics captain!
--
Devs
"Punchdown Pete the old Kroner"

Corvus Corvax said:

Marz said:

On Jun 21, 10:01 am, Corvus Corvax <[email hidden]> wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

What makes you think you will get more "braking power" (whatever that
is) with an 8" rotor?

Quoted message said:

What? Did you fail mathematics at school??

Please enlighten me: clearly define braking power, and explain why an
8" rotor gives you more of it than a 6" rotor.

CC

Ok, I define braking power as the force required to bring the wheels
to a full stop. This force is a combination of grip strength, brake
lever type/length, connection type (cable/hydraulic), caliber type and
disk radius. And if the OP is grabbing those brake levers as hard as
he can and he's not slowing down as fast as he would like then a
larger rotor may fix that problem.

And for the second part of your question. Go look it up and learn
something.

Marz said:

Ok, I define braking power as the force required to bring the wheels
to a full stop. This force is a combination of grip strength, brake
lever type/length, connection type (cable/hydraulic), caliber type and
disk radius.

You forgot one thing: tire traction, which is the limiting factor in
the amount of braking force one can apply to a wheel. Once the wheel
skids, all the "power" in the world is not going to stop the bike any
faster.

Quoted message said:

And if the OP is grabbing those brake levers as hard as
he can and he's not slowing down as fast as he would like then a
larger rotor may fix that problem.

I could skid my tires under almost any circumstance I can imagine with
a set of cantilevers. If the OP is grabbing his brake levers as hard
as he can and he's not slowing down, he's got something wrong with his
brakes.

Quoted message said:

And for the second part of your question. Go look it up and learn
something.

A little knowledge is a dangerous thing, isn't it?

CC

"Corvus Corvax" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Marz said:

Ok, I define braking power as the force required to bring the wheels
to a full stop. This force is a combination of grip strength, brake
lever type/length, connection type (cable/hydraulic), caliber type and
disk radius.

You forgot one thing: tire traction, which is the limiting factor in
the amount of braking force one can apply to a wheel. Once the wheel
skids, all the "power" in the world is not going to stop the bike any
faster.

Quoted message said:

And if the OP is grabbing those brake levers as hard as
he can and he's not slowing down as fast as he would like then a
larger rotor may fix that problem.

I could skid my tires under almost any circumstance I can imagine with
a set of cantilevers. If the OP is grabbing his brake levers as hard
as he can and he's not slowing down, he's got something wrong with his
brakes.

Quoted message said:

And for the second part of your question. Go look it up and learn
something.

A little knowledge is a dangerous thing, isn't it?

CC

Not near as dangerous as no knowledge.

Corvus Corvax said:

Marz said:

Ok, I define braking power as the force required to bring the wheels
to a full stop. This force is a combination of grip strength, brake
lever type/length, connection type (cable/hydraulic), caliber type and
disk radius.

You forgot one thing: tire traction, which is the limiting factor in
the amount of braking force one can apply to a wheel. Once the wheel
skids, all the "power" in the world is not going to stop the bike any
faster.

Quoted message said:

And if the OP is grabbing those brake levers as hard as
he can and he's not slowing down as fast as he would like then a
larger rotor may fix that problem.

I could skid my tires under almost any circumstance I can imagine with
a set of cantilevers. If the OP is grabbing his brake levers as hard
as he can and he's not slowing down, he's got something wrong with his
brakes.

Quoted message said:

And for the second part of your question. Go look it up and learn
something.

A little knowledge is a dangerous thing, isn't it?

CC

I didn't forget tyre traction. I said stop the wheel, not stop the
rider. In attempting to stop the wheel it is that reaction of tyre and
dirt my braking power is trying to over come. The traction of a given
tyre is what dictates how much of what I consider braking power can be
applied through the tyres to the ground and hence slow the rider. The
greater the traction the more power I can direct through the brakes
and the faster I will slow down (within limits of balance and bike
control).

And if you able to 'skid' your front tyre in almost any circumstance
using canti's then I can only asume your circumstances are limited.
(yes I specified front tyre)

Marz said:

Corvus Corvax said:

Marz said:

Ok, I define braking power as the force required to bring the wheels
to a full stop. This force is a combination of grip strength, brake
lever type/length, connection type (cable/hydraulic), caliber type and
disk radius.

You forgot one thing: tire traction, which is the limiting factor in
the amount of braking force one can apply to a wheel. Once the wheel
skids, all the "power" in the world is not going to stop the bike any
faster.

Quoted message said:

And if the OP is grabbing those brake levers as hard as
he can and he's not slowing down as fast as he would like then a
larger rotor may fix that problem.

I could skid my tires under almost any circumstance I can imagine with
a set of cantilevers. If the OP is grabbing his brake levers as hard
as he can and he's not slowing down, he's got something wrong with his
brakes.

Quoted message said:

And for the second part of your question. Go look it up and learn
something.

A little knowledge is a dangerous thing, isn't it?

CC

I didn't forget tyre traction. I said stop the wheel, not stop the
rider. In attempting to stop the wheel it is that reaction of tyre and
dirt my braking power is trying to over come. The traction of a given
tyre is what dictates how much of what I consider braking power can be
applied through the tyres to the ground and hence slow the rider. The
greater the traction the more power I can direct through the brakes
and the faster I will slow down (within limits of balance and bike
control).

And if you able to 'skid' your front tyre in almost any circumstance
using canti's then I can only asume your circumstances are limited.
(yes I specified front tyre)

"Corvus Corvax" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Graham FM said:

i've a Hope Disc brake with a 6" rotor and and i am thinking of
buying the fork adapter and an 8" rotor for more breaking power.Will i
get
it or will i be wasting my money?

What makes you think you will get more "braking power" (whatever that
is) with an 8" rotor?

CC

You get more leverage with an 8 over a 6...

Cheers Dre

Corvus Corvax said the following on 21/06/2007 18:20:

Quoted message said:

I could skid my tires under almost any circumstance I can imagine with
a set of cantilevers.

I think you need to broaden your imagination.

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

Corvus Corvax said the following on 21/06/2007 16:01:

Quoted message said:

What makes you think you will get more "braking power" (whatever that
is) with an 8" rotor?

I changed up to a 7" because I found that my 14st (196lb in American)
weight meant that 6" on the front didn't always fill me with confidence.
An 7" rotor does. For my needs, an 8" rotor is over the top, but I can
easily see that people can need that and more.

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

Paul Boyd usenet.dont.work@plusnet said:

Corvus Corvax said the following on 21/06/2007 18:20:

Quoted message said:

I could skid my tires under almost any circumstance I can imagine with
a set of cantilevers.

I think you need to broaden your imagination.

Why is it that everybody with a fetish for huge brakes is British?

In any case, I stand by what I said. On the vast majority of bikes, a
good set of Vs gives you more "braking power" than you will ever need.
People buy disks not to get more "braking power", but better
modulation and grip in wet conditions. Think about it: a rim brake is
essentially a mechanical disk with a twenty-some inch rotor. And
twenty is better than eight, right?

Big downhill bikes are a different matter altogether, which is why
Paladin asked the OP what kind of tires he's running. And even then, I
suspect that the issue is more about heat dissipation than "braking
power". On an XC bike, all buying an 8" rotor is going to do is make
your wallet lighter and your bike heavier. Which is probably why the
OP's bike has 6" rotors in the first place.

CC

Corvus Corvax said:

Paul Boyd usenet.dont.work@plusnet said:

Corvus Corvax said the following on 21/06/2007 18:20:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I could skid my tires under almost any circumstance I can imagine with
a set of cantilevers.

Quoted message said:

I think you need to broaden your imagination.

Why is it that everybody with a fetish for huge brakes is British?

Because alot of our riding is done in mud. And when it's muddy, any
sort of rim brake sucks. If you've ever had to dig out 10lbs of mud
from between tyre, rim brake and fork, just to get the wheel moving
again you'd understand the relief to shift to disk brakes. And for me,
at 6'5", 230lbs and riding 2.3"-2.5" tyres I've found I need to run an
8" rotor to get performant brakes.

In message <[email hidden]>,
Corvus Corvax <[email hidden]> writes

Quoted message said:

Why is it that everybody with a fetish for huge brakes is British?

Like in most things, you'll catch up eventually.

Quoted message said:

In any case, I stand by what I said. On the vast majority of bikes, a
good set of Vs gives you more "braking power" than you will ever need.
People buy disks not to get more "braking power", but better
modulation and grip in wet conditions. Think about it: a rim brake is
essentially a mechanical disk with a twenty-some inch rotor. And
twenty is better than eight, right?

That's not what you said you buffoon. You disputed that 8 gave better
stopping power than 6. Change the goalposts now if you like, you've
already shown that you are an idiot.

Quoted message said:

Big downhill bikes are a different matter altogether, which is why
Paladin asked the OP what kind of tires he's running. And even then, I
suspect that the issue is more about heat dissipation than "braking
power". On an XC bike, all buying an 8" rotor is going to do is make
your wallet lighter and your bike heavier. Which is probably why the
OP's bike has 6" rotors in the first place.

Come to Fort William and do the Witchylou (XC) trails weighing 235lbs
with 6" rotors. The heat and associated brake fade made it a very
dangerous and uncomfortable thing to do. I spent a thirsty day that day.
I had to empty my camelbak onto the rotors. You should have seen the
steam!
Your thinly disguised trolling with portfolio has taken you to within an
inch of the KF button. You don't want to go in there, trust me,
Vandermann will eat you for breakfast.
--
Devs
"Punchdown Pete the old Kroner"