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bicycle wheel respoking

Started by Lenny · · Last activity · 7 posts · 1,777 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
6 September 2004
Last activity
8 September 2004
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Lenny
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  1. I have a 26" front wheel which came off an old English bicycle. It has
    a Dynohub in it. I would like to respoke the dynohub into a 26"
    mountain bike wheel. Has anyone ever done this? I am a pretty good
    mechanic. I have built and repaired my own bikes from parts we've
    found over the years, (and we now have some nice ones), and I have
    straightened bent wheels before,(well not perfect but enough to run),
    but I have never completely disassembled and respoked a wheel. Would I
    need special spokes or can the originals be reused on the wider wheel.
    I would also like to try to find a used original Sturmey Archer head
    and tail lamp in decent condition. to complete the set. Any
    information on this project would be moset sincerely appreciated.
    Thanks, Lenny Stein.

  2. Lenny said:

    Would I
    need special spokes or can the originals be reused on the wider wheel.

    To re-use the original spokes, you'll have to find a rim with the same
    Effective Rim Diameter (ERD). All 26" rims don't have the same ERD. If you
    find a compatible rim, loosen all the spokes, and then transfer them one at
    a time from the old to the new rim. Note that the spoke holes in the rim are
    offset alternately on either side of the rim centerline. Make sure you lace
    the new rim in the correct orientation.

    If you use new spokes, lace the hub so that the spokes are in the same
    orientation as before.

    Art Harris

  3. Lenny,

    The standard English 26" wheel is not the same diameter as the modern
    mountain bike 26" wheel. The British is an ISO 597 mm size, whereas the
    mountain bike is 559 mm. This means you will need new spokes and a new
    rim. You should also have a truing stand, and the knowledge of how to use
    it, to build the new wheel.

    You can get most of the info you need at Shelton Browns web site, Harris
    cycle shop. See his section on wheels. To figure the length of the new
    spokes download a copy of Spoke Calc.

    If you have never built a wheel before, you will learn quite a bit. I
    personally think you might be better off bringing your project to your
    LBS, or buying a pre assembled 26" Mountain bike wheel with built in
    generator hub (if you can find one).

    Before you do anything else you should see if the "English" wheel you have
    will fit on your bike. If it does then your problem may just be finding a
    set of brakes with he right reach. (You will be limited to the narrow
    tires available for this wheel..and there are few tires available).

    HTH,
    Ernie

    Lenny said:

    I have a 26" front wheel which came off an old English bicycle. It has
    a Dynohub in it. I would like to respoke the dynohub into a 26"
    mountain bike wheel. Has anyone ever done this? I am a pretty good
    mechanic. I have built and repaired my own bikes from parts we've
    found over the years, (and we now have some nice ones), and I have
    straightened bent wheels before,(well not perfect but enough to run),
    but I have never completely disassembled and respoked a wheel. Would I
    need special spokes or can the originals be reused on the wider wheel.
    I would also like to try to find a used original Sturmey Archer head
    and tail lamp in decent condition. to complete the set. Any
    information on this project would be moset sincerely appreciated.
    Thanks, Lenny Stein.

  4. Lenny Stein said:

    I have a 26" front wheel which came off an old English bicycle. It
    has a Dynohub in it. I would like to respoke the Dynohub into a 26"
    mountain bike wheel. Has anyone ever done this? I am a pretty good
    mechanic. I have built and repaired my own bikes from parts we've
    found over the years, (and we now have some nice ones), and I have
    straightened bent wheels before,(well not perfect but enough to
    run), but I have never completely disassembled and respoked a wheel.
    Would I need special spokes or can the originals be reused on the
    wider wheel. I would also like to try to find a used original
    Sturmey Archer head and tail lamp in decent condition. to complete
    the set. Any information on this project would be most sincerely
    appreciated.

    First, do NOT disassemble the Dynohub:

    http://yarchive.net/bike/dyno_hub.html

    Also, these flanges are steel and fairly thin so they don't give great
    support to spoke elbows. This is one of those places where spoke
    washers can help. The washer goes between the spoke head and flange
    so that the elbow is up against the flange. If you are set on
    restoring an antique then you might not want good stainless spokes,
    but if you want to get some good use riding it, I think you will be
    better off with new stainless spokes.

    I doubt the old spokes will work for two reasons. First is that they
    won't be the right length for any current rim that you can find, and
    second, some of the spoke nipples will be too rusted-on to unscrew
    from the galvanized spokes that generally rust in the threads.

    Jobst Brandt
    [email hidden]

  5. [email hidden] wrote in message ...

    Quoted message said:
    Lenny Stein said:

    I have a 26" front wheel which came off an old English bicycle. It
    has a Dynohub in it. I would like to respoke the Dynohub into a 26"
    mountain bike wheel. Has anyone ever done this? I am a pretty good
    mechanic. I have built and repaired my own bikes from parts we've
    found over the years, (and we now have some nice ones), and I have
    straightened bent wheels before,(well not perfect but enough to
    run), but I have never completely disassembled and respoked a wheel.
    Would I need special spokes or can the originals be reused on the
    wider wheel. I would also like to try to find a used original
    Sturmey Archer head and tail lamp in decent condition. to complete
    the set. Any information on this project would be most sincerely
    appreciated.

    First, do NOT disassemble the Dynohub:

    http://yarchive.net/bike/dyno_hub.html

    Also, these flanges are steel and fairly thin so they don't give great
    support to spoke elbows. This is one of those places where spoke
    washers can help. The washer goes between the spoke head and flange
    so that the elbow is up against the flange. If you are set on
    restoring an antique then you might not want good stainless spokes,
    but if you want to get some good use riding it, I think you will be
    better off with new stainless spokes.

    I doubt the old spokes will work for two reasons. First is that they
    won't be the right length for any current rim that you can find, and
    second, some of the spoke nipples will be too rusted-on to unscrew
    from the galvanized spokes that generally rust in the threads.


    Wow, telepathetic eh? What orientation do you think my fingers went when I
    read this? Some bikes use brass nipples that cannot rust. I have never
    found galvanised spokes rusted in the threads, only steel nipples rusted.
    Corrosion of the zinc occurs which will eventually make the nipple stiff to
    turn, but not seized or rusted threads.

    If the nipples are found to be stiff, some penetrating oil will make them
    easier to release, but not essential.

    Trevor

  6. Thanks to everyone for all the great advice. Lenny Stein.
    "Trevor" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    [email hidden] wrote in message ...

    Quoted message said:
    Lenny Stein said:

    I have a 26" front wheel which came off an old English bicycle. It
    has a Dynohub in it. I would like to respoke the Dynohub into a 26"
    mountain bike wheel. Has anyone ever done this? I am a pretty good
    mechanic. I have built and repaired my own bikes from parts we've
    found over the years, (and we now have some nice ones), and I have
    straightened bent wheels before,(well not perfect but enough to
    run), but I have never completely disassembled and respoked a wheel.
    Would I need special spokes or can the originals be reused on the
    wider wheel. I would also like to try to find a used original
    Sturmey Archer head and tail lamp in decent condition. to complete
    the set. Any information on this project would be most sincerely
    appreciated.

    First, do NOT disassemble the Dynohub:

    http://yarchive.net/bike/dyno_hub.html

    Also, these flanges are steel and fairly thin so they don't give great
    support to spoke elbows. This is one of those places where spoke
    washers can help. The washer goes between the spoke head and flange
    so that the elbow is up against the flange. If you are set on
    restoring an antique then you might not want good stainless spokes,
    but if you want to get some good use riding it, I think you will be
    better off with new stainless spokes.

    I doubt the old spokes will work for two reasons. First is that they
    won't be the right length for any current rim that you can find, and
    second, some of the spoke nipples will be too rusted-on to unscrew
    from the galvanized spokes that generally rust in the threads.


    Wow, telepathetic eh? What orientation do you think my fingers went when I
    read this? Some bikes use brass nipples that cannot rust. I have never
    found galvanised spokes rusted in the threads, only steel nipples rusted.
    Corrosion of the zinc occurs which will eventually make the nipple stiff to
    turn, but not seized or rusted threads.

    If the nipples are found to be stiff, some penetrating oil will make them
    easier to release, but not essential.

    Trevor

  7. "Trevor" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
    <snipped>

    Quoted message said:

    Wow, telepathetic eh? What orientation do you think my fingers went when I
    read this? Some bikes use brass nipples that cannot rust. I have never
    found galvanised spokes rusted in the threads, only steel nipples rusted.
    Corrosion of the zinc occurs which will eventually make the nipple stiff to
    turn, but not seized or rusted threads.

    If the nipples are found to be stiff, some penetrating oil will make them
    easier to release, but not essential.

    Trevor

    You haven't worked on many wheels, have you, Trevor? In my experience,
    galvanised spokes *do* rust, particularly when they were built without
    lubrication. I'd guess that the plating wore off the threads during
    the original build (this usually happens with cheaper, machine-built
    wheels).

    Also, the zinc plating on galvanised spokes tend to corrode and seize
    inside the nipple. Penetrating oil helps- sometimes- but by the time
    you've rounded off the nipple you generally have to cut the spoke out
    and replace everything.

    Jeff

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