I have a 26" front wheel which came off an old English bicycle. It has
a Dynohub in it. I would like to respoke the dynohub into a 26"
mountain bike wheel. Has anyone ever done this? I am a pretty good
mechanic. I have built and repaired my own bikes from parts we've
found over the years, (and we now have some nice ones), and I have
straightened bent wheels before,(well not perfect but enough to run),
but I have never completely disassembled and respoked a wheel. Would I
need special spokes or can the originals be reused on the wider wheel.
I would also like to try to find a used original Sturmey Archer head
and tail lamp in decent condition. to complete the set. Any
information on this project would be moset sincerely appreciated.
Thanks, Lenny Stein.
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bicycle wheel respoking
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- Cycling Equipment
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- 6 September 2004
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- 8 September 2004
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- Lenny
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Lenny said:
Would I
need special spokes or can the originals be reused on the wider wheel.To re-use the original spokes, you'll have to find a rim with the same
Effective Rim Diameter (ERD). All 26" rims don't have the same ERD. If you
find a compatible rim, loosen all the spokes, and then transfer them one at
a time from the old to the new rim. Note that the spoke holes in the rim are
offset alternately on either side of the rim centerline. Make sure you lace
the new rim in the correct orientation.If you use new spokes, lace the hub so that the spokes are in the same
orientation as before.Art Harris
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Lenny,
The standard English 26" wheel is not the same diameter as the modern
mountain bike 26" wheel. The British is an ISO 597 mm size, whereas the
mountain bike is 559 mm. This means you will need new spokes and a new
rim. You should also have a truing stand, and the knowledge of how to use
it, to build the new wheel.You can get most of the info you need at Shelton Browns web site, Harris
cycle shop. See his section on wheels. To figure the length of the new
spokes download a copy of Spoke Calc.If you have never built a wheel before, you will learn quite a bit. I
personally think you might be better off bringing your project to your
LBS, or buying a pre assembled 26" Mountain bike wheel with built in
generator hub (if you can find one).Before you do anything else you should see if the "English" wheel you have
will fit on your bike. If it does then your problem may just be finding a
set of brakes with he right reach. (You will be limited to the narrow
tires available for this wheel..and there are few tires available).HTH,
ErnieLenny said:
I have a 26" front wheel which came off an old English bicycle. It has
a Dynohub in it. I would like to respoke the dynohub into a 26"
mountain bike wheel. Has anyone ever done this? I am a pretty good
mechanic. I have built and repaired my own bikes from parts we've
found over the years, (and we now have some nice ones), and I have
straightened bent wheels before,(well not perfect but enough to run),
but I have never completely disassembled and respoked a wheel. Would I
need special spokes or can the originals be reused on the wider wheel.
I would also like to try to find a used original Sturmey Archer head
and tail lamp in decent condition. to complete the set. Any
information on this project would be moset sincerely appreciated.
Thanks, Lenny Stein. -
Lenny Stein said:
I have a 26" front wheel which came off an old English bicycle. It
has a Dynohub in it. I would like to respoke the Dynohub into a 26"
mountain bike wheel. Has anyone ever done this? I am a pretty good
mechanic. I have built and repaired my own bikes from parts we've
found over the years, (and we now have some nice ones), and I have
straightened bent wheels before,(well not perfect but enough to
run), but I have never completely disassembled and respoked a wheel.
Would I need special spokes or can the originals be reused on the
wider wheel. I would also like to try to find a used original
Sturmey Archer head and tail lamp in decent condition. to complete
the set. Any information on this project would be most sincerely
appreciated.First, do NOT disassemble the Dynohub:
http://yarchive.net/bike/dyno_hub.html
Also, these flanges are steel and fairly thin so they don't give great
support to spoke elbows. This is one of those places where spoke
washers can help. The washer goes between the spoke head and flange
so that the elbow is up against the flange. If you are set on
restoring an antique then you might not want good stainless spokes,
but if you want to get some good use riding it, I think you will be
better off with new stainless spokes.I doubt the old spokes will work for two reasons. First is that they
won't be the right length for any current rim that you can find, and
second, some of the spoke nipples will be too rusted-on to unscrew
from the galvanized spokes that generally rust in the threads.Jobst Brandt
[email hidden] -
[email hidden] wrote in message ...
Quoted message said:
Lenny Stein said:
I have a 26" front wheel which came off an old English bicycle. It
has a Dynohub in it. I would like to respoke the Dynohub into a 26"
mountain bike wheel. Has anyone ever done this? I am a pretty good
mechanic. I have built and repaired my own bikes from parts we've
found over the years, (and we now have some nice ones), and I have
straightened bent wheels before,(well not perfect but enough to
run), but I have never completely disassembled and respoked a wheel.
Would I need special spokes or can the originals be reused on the
wider wheel. I would also like to try to find a used original
Sturmey Archer head and tail lamp in decent condition. to complete
the set. Any information on this project would be most sincerely
appreciated.First, do NOT disassemble the Dynohub:
http://yarchive.net/bike/dyno_hub.html
Also, these flanges are steel and fairly thin so they don't give great
support to spoke elbows. This is one of those places where spoke
washers can help. The washer goes between the spoke head and flange
so that the elbow is up against the flange. If you are set on
restoring an antique then you might not want good stainless spokes,
but if you want to get some good use riding it, I think you will be
better off with new stainless spokes.I doubt the old spokes will work for two reasons. First is that they
won't be the right length for any current rim that you can find, and
second, some of the spoke nipples will be too rusted-on to unscrew
from the galvanized spokes that generally rust in the threads.
Wow, telepathetic eh? What orientation do you think my fingers went when I
read this? Some bikes use brass nipples that cannot rust. I have never
found galvanised spokes rusted in the threads, only steel nipples rusted.
Corrosion of the zinc occurs which will eventually make the nipple stiff to
turn, but not seized or rusted threads.If the nipples are found to be stiff, some penetrating oil will make them
easier to release, but not essential.Trevor
-
Thanks to everyone for all the great advice. Lenny Stein.
"Trevor" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...Quoted message said:
[email hidden] wrote in message ...
Quoted message said:
Lenny Stein said:
I have a 26" front wheel which came off an old English bicycle. It
has a Dynohub in it. I would like to respoke the Dynohub into a 26"
mountain bike wheel. Has anyone ever done this? I am a pretty good
mechanic. I have built and repaired my own bikes from parts we've
found over the years, (and we now have some nice ones), and I have
straightened bent wheels before,(well not perfect but enough to
run), but I have never completely disassembled and respoked a wheel.
Would I need special spokes or can the originals be reused on the
wider wheel. I would also like to try to find a used original
Sturmey Archer head and tail lamp in decent condition. to complete
the set. Any information on this project would be most sincerely
appreciated.First, do NOT disassemble the Dynohub:
http://yarchive.net/bike/dyno_hub.html
Also, these flanges are steel and fairly thin so they don't give great
support to spoke elbows. This is one of those places where spoke
washers can help. The washer goes between the spoke head and flange
so that the elbow is up against the flange. If you are set on
restoring an antique then you might not want good stainless spokes,
but if you want to get some good use riding it, I think you will be
better off with new stainless spokes.I doubt the old spokes will work for two reasons. First is that they
won't be the right length for any current rim that you can find, and
second, some of the spoke nipples will be too rusted-on to unscrew
from the galvanized spokes that generally rust in the threads.
Wow, telepathetic eh? What orientation do you think my fingers went when I
read this? Some bikes use brass nipples that cannot rust. I have never
found galvanised spokes rusted in the threads, only steel nipples rusted.
Corrosion of the zinc occurs which will eventually make the nipple stiff to
turn, but not seized or rusted threads.If the nipples are found to be stiff, some penetrating oil will make them
easier to release, but not essential.Trevor
-
"Trevor" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
<snipped>Quoted message said:
Wow, telepathetic eh? What orientation do you think my fingers went when I
read this? Some bikes use brass nipples that cannot rust. I have never
found galvanised spokes rusted in the threads, only steel nipples rusted.
Corrosion of the zinc occurs which will eventually make the nipple stiff to
turn, but not seized or rusted threads.If the nipples are found to be stiff, some penetrating oil will make them
easier to release, but not essential.Trevor
You haven't worked on many wheels, have you, Trevor? In my experience,
galvanised spokes *do* rust, particularly when they were built without
lubrication. I'd guess that the plating wore off the threads during
the original build (this usually happens with cheaper, machine-built
wheels).Also, the zinc plating on galvanised spokes tend to corrode and seize
inside the nipple. Penetrating oil helps- sometimes- but by the time
you've rounded off the nipple you generally have to cut the spoke out
and replace everything.Jeff
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