Beginners Question

"David Hallsworth" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:cd0vkv$n83.

Quoted message said:

I'd like to buy a road bike. Though for a good while it'll just be used

for

Quoted message said:

training, but my pipe dream is duathalon / triathalon. Though I'm not
completely ignorant of bikes, I'm no expert. I'm looking for a light

bike,

Quoted message said:

road geometry - nothing flashy, but something I could conceivably race

with.

Quoted message said:

Looking to spend 300-350 pounds, probably more like 400 when I get cleats
etc.

The are lots of road bike bargains on ebay.

http://qurl.net/2S

I got one for more or less half price, brand new, but as it wasn't set up
properly I had to get new wheels and a crank. If you get one that has been
well serviced and looked after you could save a fair bit of cash. If you
want one for all year round use, you'd have to consider getting one that
takes mudguards etc. I have two bikes, one road bike for summer and another
"hybrid" that is used for winter and bad weather.

--
Simon Mason
Anlaby
East Yorkshire.
53°44'N 0°26'W
http://www.simonmason.karoo.net

David Hallsworth said:

I'm sure you guys have heard this a million times before, but any help would
be appreciated!

I'm a relatively serious runner, but haven't been able to run for the last
few weeks due to a tibial stress fracture. Because of this, I rediscovered
cycling for fun / exercise vs. commuting cycling, which I do every day. I
have been regularly doing very short rides of about 30km and longer rides of
50km, all on reasonably undulating terrain.

I'd like to buy a road bike. Though for a good while it'll just be used for
training, but my pipe dream is duathalon / triathalon. Though I'm not
completely ignorant of bikes, I'm no expert. I'm looking for a light bike,
road geometry - nothing flashy, but something I could conceivably race with.
Looking to spend 300-350 pounds, probably more like 400 when I get cleats
etc.

Could you guys tell me the sort of thing I should be considering, or
resources that will tell me about what I should be looking for / avoiding.
For example, I have no idea about road bike gearing (having only ridden
mountain bikes). A few people have said to get a second hand bike, but I'm
a little concerned that I have no idea how to tell if, for example, the
bottom bracket is about to die.

Any help very much appreciated!
Dave

Hi David,

This is basically what I was told when I (a runner wanting to do triathlon
and duathlon) was buying a bike.

Road bikes are pretty straightforward - the more you pay the better they
get.

If you don't live anywhere extremely hilly you only need a double
chainring. Something like 52*39 is common. A cassette with a range of
12-25 is ample. You won't spend much time at the 12 end.

If you're very light in weight then you'll possibly benefit from a lighter
bike on any hills.

Probably the most important factor is getting a bike that fits. You should
seriously consider getting measured on a fitting jig, even if you are going
to buy a secondhand bike. You certainly need to ride any bike for some
time before buying it.

It's easier getting a bike that fits if you buy new - the choice is that
much greater. However, your budget may not make it possible to buy new.
You need to be looking at cycling magazines to spot possible secondhand
equipment. There's quite a variation in frame geometries between makes
(length of the crossbar as well as its height) so if buying secondhand
you're going to have to get up to speed on this. Looking at new bikes,
it's often possible to get a bargain by buying last year's model.

Don't forget to budget for a helmet (compulsory when racing), a track pump
(to get the tyres hard enough), shoes (not at all cheap) and cycling
shorts.

Finally, you do see people doing duathlons and tris on all sorts of bikes,
mtbs included. A possible option is to put slick tyres on a rigid mtb and
give it a go. It won't be as fast as a road bike and it won't be as much
fun but it'll allow you to give multisport a try.

Hope this helps.
--
Michael MacClancy
Random putdown - "Some cause happiness wherever they go; others whenever
they go." -Oscar Wilde
www.macclancy.demon.co.uk
www.macclancy.co.uk

Dave,

Welcome to cycling! As a serious runner you will understand my advice when
I say, first thing get a coach.
http://www.bcf.uk.com/coaching/locate_a_coach.html
He will be able to answer all your questions and will probably be able to
find you a bargain, bikewise that is.

Most club coaches will help for free [I know because I am and I do] some
decent advice at this stage will allow you to spend your money wisely, and
when you have a bike he will be able to set you a training plan to help you
develope your cycling alongside your running.

Good luck with it...............Dave Chadderton

"David Hallsworth" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'm sure you guys have heard this a million times before, but any help

would

Quoted message said:

be appreciated!

I'm a relatively serious runner, but haven't been able to run for the last
few weeks due to a tibial stress fracture. Because of this, I

rediscovered

Quoted message said:

cycling for fun / exercise vs. commuting cycling, which I do every day. I
have been regularly doing very short rides of about 30km and longer rides

of

Quoted message said:

50km, all on reasonably undulating terrain.

I'd like to buy a road bike. Though for a good while it'll just be used

for

Quoted message said:

training, but my pipe dream is duathalon / triathalon. Though I'm not
completely ignorant of bikes, I'm no expert. I'm looking for a light

bike,

Quoted message said:

road geometry - nothing flashy, but something I could conceivably race

with.

Quoted message said:

Looking to spend 300-350 pounds, probably more like 400 when I get cleats
etc.

Could you guys tell me the sort of thing I should be considering, or
resources that will tell me about what I should be looking for / avoiding.
For example, I have no idea about road bike gearing (having only ridden
mountain bikes). A few people have said to get a second hand bike, but

I'm

Quoted message said:

a little concerned that I have no idea how to tell if, for example, the
bottom bracket is about to die.

Any help very much appreciated!
Dave

--

Ask for my e-mail if needed

"David Hallsworth" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'm sure you guys have heard this a million times before, but any help

would

Quoted message said:

be appreciated!

I'm a relatively serious runner, but haven't been able to run for the last
few weeks due to a tibial stress fracture. Because of this, I

rediscovered

Quoted message said:

cycling for fun / exercise vs. commuting cycling, which I do every day. I
have been regularly doing very short rides of about 30km and longer rides

of

Quoted message said:

50km, all on reasonably undulating terrain.

I'd like to buy a road bike. Though for a good while it'll just be used

for

Quoted message said:

training, but my pipe dream is duathalon / triathalon. Though I'm not
completely ignorant of bikes, I'm no expert. I'm looking for a light

bike,

Quoted message said:

road geometry - nothing flashy, but something I could conceivably race

with.

Quoted message said:

Looking to spend 300-350 pounds, probably more like 400 when I get cleats
etc.

Could you guys tell me the sort of thing I should be considering, or
resources that will tell me about what I should be looking for / avoiding.
For example, I have no idea about road bike gearing (having only ridden
mountain bikes). A few people have said to get a second hand bike, but

I'm

Quoted message said:

a little concerned that I have no idea how to tell if, for example, the
bottom bracket is about to die.

Any help very much appreciated!
Dave

--

Ask for my e-mail if needed

Try Edinburgh Bicycle, they are on the net. I would send you a link but

there are sometimes problems with links to their site. Do a Google search
and you'll get them.

Graham

David Hallsworth:

Quoted message said:

Could you guys tell me the sort of thing I should be considering, or
resources that will tell me about what I should be looking for / avoiding.

Aluminium frame - titanium or carbon are better but a lot more expensive
Narrow 32 or 36-spoke 700C wheels with slick, narrow (eg 23C) tyres
Carbon forks & seatpost (nice but not essential)
Dual-pivot brakes
Shimano STI/Campag ergo integrated brakes/gear shifters

Quoted message said:

For example, I have no idea about road bike gearing (having only ridden
mountain bikes).

Gearing for road bikes will be much higher than what you're used to on
mountain bikes. Most have a double chainset rather than a triple, with
52/39-tooth chainrings typical. On the rear wheel, 8 or 9-speed cassettes
are common, with an 11-tooth small sprocket ranging up to 21, 23 or 26.
These can easily be replaced if you want lower gearing.

Quoted message said:

A few people have said to get a second hand bike, but I'm
a little concerned that I have no idea how to tell if, for example, the
bottom bracket is about to die.

I would have said a second-hand bike would be ideal. A new sealed
cartridge-type bottom bracket only costs about £15-£20 so it's worth taking
the risk as you'll get a much higher specced bike for that money - on your
budget, if you buy new you're looking at very much the bottom end of the
'performance' range for road bikes.

Ideally, you'll want to try the bike before you buy it so you might get some
idea about the condition of such things - and you can always ask the seller
how many miles the various components have done.

d.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Try Edinburgh Bicycle, they are on the net. I would send you a link but

there are sometimes problems with links to their site. Do a Google search
and you'll get them.

I was "out of" cycling from the ages of 20-33! Came back in three year
ago and much has changed :-) The Edinburgh Country tourer is my current
mount and it's excellent, good value too. You can add the Shimano
Flightdeck computer to the Country. It's a little fiddly but I find it a
superb aid. It shows what gear your in, cadence rpm, speed and all the
other bits. Good training aid in my humble (and limited) opinion.

--
Who needs a life when you've got Unix? :-)
Email: [email hidden], John G.Burns B.Eng, Bonny Scotland
Web : http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk - The Ultimate BMW Homepage!
Need Sun or HP Unix kit? http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/unix.html

John Burns [email hidden] opined the following...

Quoted message said:

I was "out of" cycling from the ages of 20-33! Came back in three year
ago and much has changed :-) The Edinburgh Country tourer is my current
mount and it's excellent, good value too. You can add the Shimano
Flightdeck computer to the Country. It's a little fiddly but I find it a
superb aid. It shows what gear your in, cadence rpm, speed and all the
other bits. Good training aid in my humble (and limited) opinion.

Or get a Cateye Astrale (~=A330) and the Opal HRM (~=A330) and get=20
everything except the gear indicator + heart rate monitoring for about=20
the same money!

Jon

davek <[email hidden]> wrote:

: Aluminium frame - titanium or carbon are better but a lot more expensive

Al is good for racing and cheap.

: Narrow 32 or 36-spoke 700C wheels with slick, narrow (eg 23C) tyres

Yup. 32 spokes are plenty though

: Carbon forks & seatpost (nice but not essential)

Not in your price range. Carbon seatposts are a complete PITA anyway. Second
hand you could get a nice Aluminium frame and carbon fork for you money.

New you'd get a cheaper Al frame and either an Al or Steel fork.

: Dual-pivot brakes
: Shimano STI/Campag ergo integrated brakes/gear shifters

Yup. If you are thinking about racing you want STI/Ergo. Again, easily in
your price range second hand and just in at the upper range new but you'd
get cheaper shifters that won't last that long.

: Gearing for road bikes will be much higher than what you're used to on
: mountain bikes. Most have a double chainset rather than a triple, with
: 52/39-tooth chainrings typical. On the rear wheel, 8 or 9-speed cassettes
: are common, with an 11-tooth small sprocket ranging up to 21, 23 or 26.
: These can easily be replaced if you want lower gearing.

All good advice. If you have the choice, you won't need 11-tooth small
socket though.

Second hand bikes - do you know anyone that can see them with you?

Arthur

--
Arthur Clune http://www.clune.org
"Technolibertarians make a philosophy out of a personality defect"
- Paulina Borsook

Arthur Clune:

Quoted message said:

: Carbon forks & seatpost (nice but not essential)

Not in your price range. Carbon seatposts are a complete PITA anyway.

Second

Quoted message said:

hand you could get a nice Aluminium frame and carbon fork for you money.

You're absolutely right, of course, but I only mentioned them because I've
seen them on second-hand bikes within the OP's stated price range. Unusual,
but not impossible.

What's the difficulty with carbon seatposts? I must admit to lack of
knowledge/experience on the subject - all I know is that as well as the
obvious weight benefits they supposedly offer a more comfortable ride.

d.

Guys - I won't clog up your newsreaders by answering all individually, that
thanks to everyone who posted some very helpful advice. A few points and
questions:

You've convinced me to go second-hand. I've found a colleague who is pretty
into cycling who can come with me and advise, which will be an enormous
help. Are there any 'classical pitfalls' that I should be aware of when
buying a second-hand bike? e-bay sounds attractive, but I'm worried about
a) getting scammed, and b) getting a bike that fits properly. Any advice?

Cheers again,
Dave

--

Ask for my e-mail if needed

In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden]
says...

Quoted message said:

Guys - I won't clog up your newsreaders by answering all individually, that
thanks to everyone who posted some very helpful advice. A few points and
questions:

You've convinced me to go second-hand. I've found a colleague who is pretty
into cycling who can come with me and advise, which will be an enormous
help. Are there any 'classical pitfalls' that I should be aware of when
buying a second-hand bike? e-bay sounds attractive, but I'm worried about
a) getting scammed, and b) getting a bike that fits properly. Any advice?

If you can, avoid 27" wheels. They can be easily changed to 700Cs but
you may then need long reach brakes and wont be able to take full
advantage of the stopping power of dual pivots.

Other than that, try to get one locally that you can try out first.

Jon

in message <[email hidden]>, David Hallsworth

(') said:

Guys - I won't clog up your newsreaders by answering all individually,
that
thanks to everyone who posted some very helpful advice. A few points
and questions:

You've convinced me to go second-hand. I've found a colleague who is
pretty into cycling who can come with me and advise, which will be an
enormous
help. Are there any 'classical pitfalls' that I should be aware of
when
buying a second-hand bike? e-bay sounds attractive, but I'm worried
about
a) getting scammed, and b) getting a bike that fits properly. Any
advice?

There are scammers on eBay; there was one about six months ago who kept
listing top-spec Cannondales. The danger signs are people who ask you
to contact them bypassing the ebay system - that almost always means a
hijacked account. I've bought plenty of cycling bits off ebay and had
no problems.

Fit is obviously an issue especially when buying off the net; not much
you can do about this unless you have a good feel of the fit of that
particular design.

A cracked frame is the obvious potential horror. Cracked aluminium
frames are pretty much not repairable. However, if someone sold a bike
with a cracked frame (and didn't say so) I think you'd have very good
grounds for rejecting the sale.

Apart from that you might get a bike with a dodgy bearing or some worn
out parts but these are all replaceable. People are mostly not
dishonest, and the ebay feedback system works. If someone has a good
feedback rating they're probably all right.

Still buying locally is probably better because you can check out the
bike for both fit and obviously unservicable parts, and haggle on that
basis.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; making jokes about dyslexia isn't big, it isn't clever and
;; it isn't furry.

Simon Brooke said:

There are scammers on eBay; there was one about six months ago who kept
listing top-spec Cannondales. The danger signs are people who ask you
to contact them bypassing the ebay system - that almost always means a
hijacked account. I've bought plenty of cycling bits off ebay and had
no problems.

Also, don't buy via any escrow service as these are almost always
fake.

See http://www.rantaway.net/ppppowerbook/ for an amusing story about
someone not getting ripped off by one

A

David Hallsworth said:

Guys - I won't clog up your newsreaders by answering all individually, that
thanks to everyone who posted some very helpful advice. A few points and
questions:

You've convinced me to go second-hand. I've found a colleague who is pretty
into cycling who can come with me and advise, which will be an enormous
help. Are there any 'classical pitfalls' that I should be aware of when
buying a second-hand bike? e-bay sounds attractive, but I'm worried about
a) getting scammed, and b) getting a bike that fits properly. Any advice?

Cheers again,
Dave

I would never buy a bike I hadn't ridden.
--
Michael MacClancy
Random putdown - "Some cause happiness wherever they go; others whenever
they go." -Oscar Wilde
www.macclancy.demon.co.uk
www.macclancy.co.uk

"David Hallsworth" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Guys - I won't clog up your newsreaders by answering all individually,

that

Quoted message said:

thanks to everyone who posted some very helpful advice. A few points and
questions:

You've convinced me to go second-hand. I've found a colleague who is

pretty

Quoted message said:

into cycling who can come with me and advise, which will be an enormous
help. Are there any 'classical pitfalls' that I should be aware of when
buying a second-hand bike? e-bay sounds attractive, but I'm worried

about

Quoted message said:

a) getting scammed, and b) getting a bike that fits properly. Any

advice?

Quoted message said:

When you go to the Ebay search page, in your chosen category
All Categories > Sporting Goods > Cycling > Road Bicycles
or whatever, choose refine search
which is next to the big [SEARCH] button at the top.

That will allow you to just list bikes from around your area
- sort of - it starts off Aberdeen Belfast Birmingam Bristol
etc. Ideally you can then check the bike out yourself, and also
it should help you avoid getting ripped off.

Curious

Quoted message said:

Cheers again,
Dave

--

Ask for my e-mail if needed

"David Hallsworth" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

Quoted message said:

You've convinced me to go second-hand. I've found a colleague who is

pretty

Quoted message said:

into cycling who can come with me and advise, which will be an enormous
help. Are there any 'classical pitfalls' that I should be aware of when
buying a second-hand bike? e-bay sounds attractive, but I'm worried about
a) getting scammed, and b) getting a bike that fits properly. Any advice?

I had to post off a cheque for £500 to a guy off ebay I'd never met, but I
ended up with this bike
http://www.simonmason.karoo.net/page480.htm
and I'm more than chuffed with it even with the problems I've had. My frame
was compact for my 6ft 2in but with a long seatpost you can make a small
bike fit and it's less weight. A guy with a long list of positives, or a
dealer would be safe bet.
--
Simon M.

Simon Mason said:

....My frame was compact for my 6ft 2in but with a long seatpost you can
make a small bike fit and it's less weight.

I'm glad your're happy on the bike not not everyone of your height would
be, I wouldn't be anyway. There's only so much you can do with handlebar
stems if the top tube is too low or short. I would advise other buyers to
get a frame that fits better. One size does not fit all, certainly not
one small size, otherwise the manufacturers wouldn't bother making a range
of sizes. Even "compact" frames come in small, medium and large
versions -- sometimes more options than that.

~PB

"Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Simon Mason said:

....My frame was compact for my 6ft 2in but with a long seatpost you can
make a small bike fit and it's less weight.

I'm glad your're happy on the bike not not everyone of your height would
be, I wouldn't be anyway. There's only so much you can do with handlebar
stems if the top tube is too low or short. I would advise other buyers to
get a frame that fits better. One size does not fit all, certainly not
one small size, otherwise the manufacturers wouldn't bother making a range
of sizes. Even "compact" frames come in small, medium and large
versions -- sometimes more options than that.

Well, I haven't got a "bespoke" bike, so I don't know if a larger frame
would be better. My hybrid has a 60cm frame and is more comfortable, but
then that's largely down to the tyres, flat bars, steel frame and saddle. I
have got used to the road bike's high saddle and low bars now, I think my
body has made adjustments to the bike rather than the other way round ;-)

--
Simon M.

Have been perusing e-bay to get a feel for how much second hand bikes go
for, etc.

What do you guys think of this bike (it's ended, so I'm not getting it -
just wanted to see if it was any good)?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=72573&item=3687823209&rd=1

Cheers,
Dave

--

Ask for my e-mail if needed