Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

BB on steel frames

Started by PJay · · Last activity · 11 posts · 504 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
31 October 2005
Last activity
1 November 2005
Original author
PJay
Posts
11
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  1. I have a steel framed (mountain bike) and am getting into the habit of
    removing the BB every so often to clean up and re-grease the threads to
    avoid it seizing.

    Whilst applying copper grease to the threads of the BB shell I have also
    smeared a layer of copper grease around the inside of the shell itself for
    protection. I was wondering whether this is ok or should I just leave the
    metal bare?

    I know that it is often recommended that you drill a small (5mmish) hole in
    the bottom of the BB shell to allow water to drain but as I'm pretty new to
    maintenance I really don't feel comfortable taking a drill to my frame. I
    can always remove the seatpost and perhaps store the bike upside down after
    a wet ride. I was just wondering whether copper greasing the inside of the
    shell is a good idea or not.

  2. PJay said:

    I have a steel framed (mountain bike) and am getting into the habit of
    removing the BB every so often to clean up and re-grease the threads to
    avoid it seizing.

    Whilst applying copper grease to the threads of the BB shell I have also
    smeared a layer of copper grease around the inside of the shell itself for
    protection. I was wondering whether this is ok or should I just leave the
    metal bare?

    I know that it is often recommended that you drill a small (5mmish) hole in
    the bottom of the BB shell to allow water to drain but as I'm pretty new to
    maintenance I really don't feel comfortable taking a drill to my frame. I
    can always remove the seatpost and perhaps store the bike upside down after
    a wet ride. I was just wondering whether copper greasing the inside of the
    shell is a good idea or not.

    Grease or antisieze into the BB shell, onto the threads and inside the
    BB cups on a cart bearing...Can't use too much.

    Drill a hole, no big deal. We do it all the time on any frame that
    doesn't have a hole to let H2O escape.

  3. "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    PJay said:

    I have a steel framed (mountain bike) and am getting into the habit of
    removing the BB every so often to clean up and re-grease the threads to
    avoid it seizing.

    Whilst applying copper grease to the threads of the BB shell I have also
    smeared a layer of copper grease around the inside of the shell itself


    for

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    protection. I was wondering whether this is ok or should I just leave


    the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    metal bare?

    I know that it is often recommended that you drill a small (5mmish) hole


    in

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    the bottom of the BB shell to allow water to drain but as I'm pretty new


    to

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    maintenance I really don't feel comfortable taking a drill to my frame.


    I

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    can always remove the seatpost and perhaps store the bike upside down


    after

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    a wet ride. I was just wondering whether copper greasing the inside of


    the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    shell is a good idea or not.

    Grease or antisieze into the BB shell, onto the threads and inside the
    BB cups on a cart bearing...Can't use too much.

    Drill a hole, no big deal. We do it all the time on any frame that
    doesn't have a hole to let H2O escape.


    actually, no. use anti seize with moderation on your threads, as too much
    will help cause your bb to unscrew while riding.( as many people wonder
    about using locite to fix their bb) you should only need to use antiseize
    when you have different materials in contact for bb and shell ( to prevent
    galvanic corrosion )

    also for your frame you can spray Pam inside the tubes to cover the insides
    of the tubes BEFORE you take it out for the 1st time

    and for drilling, don't. you will let more water in. your frame already has
    the necessary holes

    Laz

  4. Laz said:

    "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    PJay said:

    I have a steel framed (mountain bike) and am getting into the habit of
    removing the BB every so often to clean up and re-grease the threads to
    avoid it seizing.

    Whilst applying copper grease to the threads of the BB shell I have also
    smeared a layer of copper grease around the inside of the shell itself


    for

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    protection. I was wondering whether this is ok or should I just leave


    the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    metal bare?

    I know that it is often recommended that you drill a small (5mmish) hole


    in

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    the bottom of the BB shell to allow water to drain but as I'm pretty new


    to

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    maintenance I really don't feel comfortable taking a drill to my frame.


    I

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    can always remove the seatpost and perhaps store the bike upside down


    after

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    a wet ride. I was just wondering whether copper greasing the inside of


    the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    shell is a good idea or not.

    Grease or antisieze into the BB shell, onto the threads and inside the
    BB cups on a cart bearing...Can't use too much.

    Drill a hole, no big deal. We do it all the time on any frame that
    doesn't have a hole to let H2O escape.


    actually, no. use anti seize with moderation on your threads, as too much
    will help cause your bb to unscrew while riding.( as many people wonder
    about using locite to fix their bb) you should only need to use antiseize
    when you have different materials in contact for bb and shell ( to prevent
    galvanic corrosion )

    also for your frame you can spray Pam inside the tubes to cover the insides
    of the tubes BEFORE you take it out for the 1st time

    and for drilling, don't. you will let more water in. your frame already has
    the necessary holes

    Laz

    My experience after many years with a few steel and aluminum bikes has been:
    Regarding drain holes in the bb, when I ride in the rain water gets into the bbshell. I don't know how, but it gets there. With no drain hole, some stays down there. With drain holes the water does not remain in there. So, for as long as I can recall, I drill the BB shells of my and my wife's bikes (one or two 1/4 inch holes) and the bbs stay happy. I bought an expensive, custom made steel frame recently and it came with the bb predrilled. The builder said he drills every one he makes. Good builder.

    I use lots of grease or teflon thread tape on the bb shell threads. The lube does not encourage unscrewing...at least with the English threaded bbs on my bikes. Grease allows me to tighten the parts smoothly to high enough torque so they do not unscrew. Grease is good. Too much is just messy, but otherwise not bad.

    Steve

  5. PJay said:

    I have a steel framed (mountain bike) and am getting into the habit of
    removing the BB every so often to clean up and re-grease the threads to
    avoid it seizing.

    Whilst applying copper grease to the threads of the BB shell I have also
    smeared a layer of copper grease around the inside of the shell itself for
    protection. I was wondering whether this is ok or should I just leave the
    metal bare?

    I know that it is often recommended that you drill a small (5mmish) hole in
    the bottom of the BB shell to allow water to drain but as I'm pretty new to
    maintenance I really don't feel comfortable taking a drill to my frame. I
    can always remove the seatpost and perhaps store the bike upside down after
    a wet ride. I was just wondering whether copper greasing the inside of the
    shell is a good idea or not.


    Drill a 4mm hole. If you want options, tap it M5 so you can plug it
    with a bolt and just drain the water off periodically (knowing none can
    get in that way). Thorn do this on their frames. Or just leave it, as
    any water that gets in will just run out again. On cheaper frames most
    water gets in via the blowholes in the chainstays (which slope towards
    the BB) or via a poorly reamed and undergreased seat tube.

    Anti-seize on either male or female thread will do. PTFE tape also
    works and can be better if your threads are a little loose.

  6. Laz said:

    actually, no. use anti seize with moderation on your threads, as too much
    will help cause your bb to unscrew while riding.

    Bull, BB threads tend to fasten themselves when riding. Well, unless you
    have an Italian frame.

    Jasper

  7. Zog The Undeniable said:
    PJay said:

    I have a steel framed (mountain bike) and am getting into the habit
    of removing the BB every so often to clean up and re-grease the
    threads to avoid it seizing.

    Whilst applying copper grease to the threads of the BB shell I have
    also smeared a layer of copper grease around the inside of the shell
    itself for protection. I was wondering whether this is ok or should
    I just leave the metal bare?

    I know that it is often recommended that you drill a small (5mmish)
    hole in the bottom of the BB shell to allow water to drain but as
    I'm pretty new to maintenance I really don't feel comfortable taking
    a drill to my frame. I can always remove the seatpost and perhaps
    store the bike upside down after a wet ride. I was just wondering
    whether copper greasing the inside of the shell is a good idea or
    not.


    Drill a 4mm hole. If you want options, tap it M5 so you can plug it
    with a bolt and just drain the water off periodically (knowing none
    can get in that way). Thorn do this on their frames. Or just leave
    it, as any water that gets in will just run out again. On cheaper
    frames most water gets in via the blowholes in the chainstays (which
    slope towards the BB) or via a poorly reamed and undergreased seat
    tube.

    Good point. My TCR has open-ended dropouts (basically a 8mm hole) that feed
    into chainstays, all the way to the bottom bracket. In other words, I can
    see the center of my bottom bracket from outside the bike.

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training

  8. Laz said:

    actually, no. use anti seize with moderation on your threads, as too much
    will help cause your bb to unscrew while riding.( as many people wonder
    about using locite to fix their bb) you should only need to use antiseize
    when you have different materials in contact for bb and shell ( to prevent
    galvanic corrosion )

    No. Anti-seize does _not_ cause your bottom-bracket to unscrew. Silly
    notion.

    Quoted message said:


    also for your frame you can spray Pam inside the tubes to cover the
    insides of the tubes BEFORE you take it out for the 1st time

    Pam? Are you planning to bake a cake inside your frame? You don't need
    any sort of spray on the inside. Take a look at my (or anyone's)
    35-year-old frame to see how little rust builds up inside.

    Quoted message said:


    and for drilling, don't. you will let more water in. your frame already
    has the necessary holes

    The holes you apparently are referring to are to allow hot air to escape
    while welding/brazing.

    --

    David L. Johnson

    __o | Become MicroSoft-free forever. Ask me how.
    _`\(,_ |
    (_)/ (_) |

  9. "Laz" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    PJay said:

    I have a steel framed (mountain bike) and am getting into the habit of
    removing the BB every so often to clean up and re-grease the threads to
    avoid it seizing.

    Whilst applying copper grease to the threads of the BB shell I have
    also
    smeared a layer of copper grease around the inside of the shell itself


    for

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    protection. I was wondering whether this is ok or should I just leave


    the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    metal bare?

    I know that it is often recommended that you drill a small (5mmish)
    hole


    in

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    the bottom of the BB shell to allow water to drain but as I'm pretty
    new


    to

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    maintenance I really don't feel comfortable taking a drill to my frame.


    I

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    can always remove the seatpost and perhaps store the bike upside down


    after

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    a wet ride. I was just wondering whether copper greasing the inside of


    the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    shell is a good idea or not.

    Grease or antisieze into the BB shell, onto the threads and inside the
    BB cups on a cart bearing...Can't use too much.

    Drill a hole, no big deal. We do it all the time on any frame that
    doesn't have a hole to let H2O escape.


    actually, no. use anti seize with moderation on your threads, as too much
    will help cause your bb to unscrew while riding.( as many people wonder
    about using locite to fix their bb) you should only need to use antiseize
    when you have different materials in contact for bb and shell ( to prevent
    galvanic corrosion )

    also for your frame you can spray Pam inside the tubes to cover the
    insides
    of the tubes BEFORE you take it out for the 1st time

    and for drilling, don't. you will let more water in. your frame already
    has
    the necessary holes

    Laz

    Spring for a can of Frame Saver and forget the cooking oil spray...unless
    you're concerned about edibility, of course. BTW, in my universe, gravity
    causes water to fall out of the hole in the BB shell, not enter it (net, of
    course).

    Cal

  10. "Laz" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    PJay said:

    I have a steel framed (mountain bike) and am getting into the habit of
    removing the BB every so often to clean up and re-grease the threads to
    avoid it seizing.

    Whilst applying copper grease to the threads of the BB shell I have
    also
    smeared a layer of copper grease around the inside of the shell itself


    for

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    protection. I was wondering whether this is ok or should I just leave


    the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    metal bare?

    I know that it is often recommended that you drill a small (5mmish)
    hole


    in

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    the bottom of the BB shell to allow water to drain but as I'm pretty
    new


    to

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    maintenance I really don't feel comfortable taking a drill to my frame.


    I

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    can always remove the seatpost and perhaps store the bike upside down


    after

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    a wet ride. I was just wondering whether copper greasing the inside of


    the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    shell is a good idea or not.

    Grease or antisieze into the BB shell, onto the threads and inside the
    BB cups on a cart bearing...Can't use too much.

    Drill a hole, no big deal. We do it all the time on any frame that
    doesn't have a hole to let H2O escape.


    actually, no. use anti seize with moderation on your threads, as too much
    will help cause your bb to unscrew while riding.( as many people wonder
    about using locite to fix their bb) you should only need to use antiseize
    when you have different materials in contact for bb and shell ( to prevent
    galvanic corrosion )

    also for your frame you can spray Pam inside the tubes to cover the
    insides
    of the tubes BEFORE you take it out for the 1st time

    and for drilling, don't. you will let more water in. your frame already
    has
    the necessary holes

    Laz

    Spring for a can of Frame Saver and forget the cooking oil spray...unless
    you're concerned about edibility, of course. BTW, in my universe, gravity
    causes water to fall out of the hole in the BB shell, not enter it (net, of
    course).

    Cal

  11. "Laz" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    PJay said:

    I have a steel framed (mountain bike) and am getting into the habit of
    removing the BB every so often to clean up and re-grease the threads to
    avoid it seizing.

    Whilst applying copper grease to the threads of the BB shell I have
    also
    smeared a layer of copper grease around the inside of the shell itself


    for

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    protection. I was wondering whether this is ok or should I just leave


    the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    metal bare?

    I know that it is often recommended that you drill a small (5mmish)
    hole


    in

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    the bottom of the BB shell to allow water to drain but as I'm pretty
    new


    to

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    maintenance I really don't feel comfortable taking a drill to my frame.


    I

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    can always remove the seatpost and perhaps store the bike upside down


    after

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    a wet ride. I was just wondering whether copper greasing the inside of


    the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    shell is a good idea or not.

    Grease or antisieze into the BB shell, onto the threads and inside the
    BB cups on a cart bearing...Can't use too much.

    Drill a hole, no big deal. We do it all the time on any frame that
    doesn't have a hole to let H2O escape.


    actually, no. use anti seize with moderation on your threads, as too much
    will help cause your bb to unscrew while riding.( as many people wonder
    about using locite to fix their bb) you should only need to use antiseize
    when you have different materials in contact for bb and shell ( to prevent
    galvanic corrosion )

    also for your frame you can spray Pam inside the tubes to cover the
    insides
    of the tubes BEFORE you take it out for the 1st time

    and for drilling, don't. you will let more water in. your frame already
    has
    the necessary holes

    Laz

    Spring for a can of Frame Saver and forget the cooking oil spray...unless
    you're concerned about edibility, of course. BTW, in my universe, gravity
    causes water to fall out of the hole in the BB shell, not enter it (net, of
    course).

    Cal

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