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B+M Lumotec IQ

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UK and Europe
Published
26 November 2007
Last activity
4 December 2007
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Matt
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  1. Had the first commute with the new B+M Lumotec IQ Fly front light (LED
    thing). I bought it as a replacement for a standard B+M Lumotec Oval which
    I found to be inadequate for unlit roads and paths.

    The IQ is much brighter and actually allows a decent speed (for me) to be
    maintained. Despite some light spillage close to the bike the beam is a
    decent width and projects well in front of the bike. Thoroughly recommended
    for £40 (obviously you need a dynamo as well!)

    Matt

  2. On 26/11/2007 19:46, Matt said,

    Quoted message said:

    The IQ is much brighter and actually allows a decent speed (for me) to be
    maintained. Despite some light spillage close to the bike the beam is a
    decent width and projects well in front of the bike. Thoroughly recommended
    for £40 (obviously you need a dynamo as well!)

    Seconded...

    --
    Paul Boyd
    http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

  3. Quoted message said:

    On 26/11/2007 19:46, Matt said,

    Quoted message said:

    The IQ is much brighter and actually allows a decent speed (for me)
    to be
    maintained. Despite some light spillage close to the bike the beam
    is a
    decent width and projects well in front of the bike. Thoroughly
    recommended for £40 (obviously you need a dynamo as well!)

    Seconded...


    Better than Solids!
    --
    del 8-)

  4. Matt said:

    Had the first commute with the new B+M Lumotec IQ Fly front light (LED
    thing). I bought it as a replacement for a standard B+M Lumotec Oval which
    I found to be inadequate for unlit roads and paths.

    The IQ is much brighter and actually allows a decent speed (for me) to be
    maintained. Despite some light spillage close to the bike the beam is a
    decent width and projects well in front of the bike. Thoroughly recommended
    for £40 (obviously you need a dynamo as well!)

    Dammit, and I just bought a D-Lumotec oval senso widget bingy.

    Oh well, nearly Christmas.

  5. "Tosspot" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Matt said:

    Had the first commute with the new B+M Lumotec IQ Fly front light (LED
    thing). I bought it as a replacement for a standard B+M Lumotec Oval
    which I found to be inadequate for unlit roads and paths.

    The IQ is much brighter and actually allows a decent speed (for me) to be
    maintained. Despite some light spillage close to the bike the beam is a
    decent width and projects well in front of the bike. Thoroughly
    recommended for £40 (obviously you need a dynamo as well!)

    Dammit, and I just bought a D-Lumotec oval senso widget bingy.

    Oh well, nearly Christmas.

    I'm glad that I have been tardy in acting upon the advice I sought about
    purchasing Lumotecs from this parish.

    How much do you want for your Lumotec? ;-)

  6. vernon said:

    "Tosspot" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Matt said:

    Had the first commute with the new B+M Lumotec IQ Fly front light (LED
    thing). I bought it as a replacement for a standard B+M Lumotec Oval
    which I found to be inadequate for unlit roads and paths.

    The IQ is much brighter and actually allows a decent speed (for me) to be
    maintained. Despite some light spillage close to the bike the beam is a
    decent width and projects well in front of the bike. Thoroughly
    recommended for £40 (obviously you need a dynamo as well!)


    Dammit, and I just bought a D-Lumotec oval senso widget bingy.

    Oh well, nearly Christmas.

    I'm glad that I have been tardy in acting upon the advice I sought about
    purchasing Lumotecs from this parish.

    How much do you want for your Lumotec? ;-)

    I'm developing a collection, I have the Lumotec Oval Senso Plus Bingy,
    replaced by a D-Lumtotec Oval Senso Plus Bingy, which I have to say is
    not worth the replacement. Now I'm looking for a Lumotec IQ Fly Senso
    Plus Bingy!

    I need help.

  7. Tosspot said:

    I'm developing a collection, I have the Lumotec Oval Senso Plus Bingy,
    replaced by a D-Lumtotec Oval Senso Plus Bingy, which I have to say is
    not worth the replacement. Now I'm looking for a Lumotec IQ Fly Senso
    Plus Bingy!

    I need help.

    If you've got a hubdynamo you can run the Dlumotec and IQ fly side by
    side (connected in parallel)
    Should make you feel better

    --
    /Marten

    info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl

  8. Tosspot said:

    I'm developing a collection, I have the Lumotec Oval Senso Plus Bingy,
    replaced by a D-Lumtotec Oval Senso Plus Bingy, which I have to say is
    not worth the replacement.

    If the halogen's running happily, fair enough... my halogen one was
    borken (crash damage) and had to be replaced with /something/, and in
    that context it was IMHO worth replacing with the LED version. I think
    it's better, but I haven't done any work trying to persuade that Roos
    should replace either of her LOS+.

    Will be interesting to keep an eye on developments though, and what I'd
    /really/ like is a good LED dynamo powered front that will fit on the
    Brom in the space between the front wheel and the bag.

    Pete.
    --
    Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
    Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
    Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
    net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

  9. M-gineering said:
    Tosspot said:

    I'm developing a collection, I have the Lumotec Oval Senso Plus Bingy,
    replaced by a D-Lumtotec Oval Senso Plus Bingy, which I have to say is
    not worth the replacement. Now I'm looking for a Lumotec IQ Fly Senso
    Plus Bingy!

    I need help.

    If you've got a hubdynamo you can run the Dlumotec and IQ fly side by
    side (connected in parallel)
    Should make you feel better

    You're not the first person to suggest this 🙁

  10. Peter Clinch said:
    Tosspot said:

    I'm developing a collection, I have the Lumotec Oval Senso Plus Bingy,
    replaced by a D-Lumtotec Oval Senso Plus Bingy, which I have to say is
    not worth the replacement.

    If the halogen's running happily, fair enough... my halogen one was
    borken (crash damage) and had to be replaced with /something/, and in
    that context it was IMHO worth replacing with the LED version.

    Hmmm, close call. I like the fact the 'D' comes up at very low speed,
    the standlight beam angle is the same as the main and the 'bulb' should
    last forever. The colour I can live with, the 1 lux drop from 17 to 16
    is noticeable, but not the end of the world.

    Definitely not worth an upgrade, but as a replacement, I'm still not
    sure I could commit one way or the other.

    <snip>

    Quoted message said:

    Will be interesting to keep an eye on developments though, and what I'd
    /really/ like is a good LED dynamo powered front that will fit on the
    Brom in the space between the front wheel and the bag.

    I'm watching this with interest as well. That IQ perked my interest as
    a bloody bright light for not much drag, which is always what we want 🙂

  11. Tosspot said the following on 29/11/2007 17:17:

    Quoted message said:

    I'm watching this with interest as well. That IQ perked my interest as
    a bloody bright light for not much drag, which is always what we want 🙂

    Something else about the IQ - it needs very little distance to get some
    sort of standlight going, unlike my old Oval Senso. When I say very
    little, I mean that by the time I've wheeled the bike halfway down the
    drive past the neighbour's van, a distance from my back door of about 6
    or 7 yards, the standlight is glowing when I stop to get on. With the
    old Oval, my first stop meant I had no lights front or rear because I
    hadn't ridden far enough to charge it up.

    --
    Paul Boyd
    http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

  12. Paul Boyd said:

    Tosspot said the following on 29/11/2007 17:17:

    Quoted message said:

    I'm watching this with interest as well. That IQ perked my interest
    as a bloody bright light for not much drag, which is always what we
    want 🙂

    Something else about the IQ - it needs very little distance to get some
    sort of standlight going, unlike my old Oval Senso. When I say very
    little, I mean that by the time I've wheeled the bike halfway down the
    drive past the neighbour's van, a distance from my back door of about 6
    or 7 yards, the standlight is glowing when I stop to get on. With the
    old Oval, my first stop meant I had no lights front or rear because I
    hadn't ridden far enough to charge it up.

    And on that point, I like the front standlights, not so much for safety,
    it obviously helps, but so I can see what I'm doing with my keys and
    garage lock at night. Great things.

  13. Matt said:

    Had the first commute with the new B+M Lumotec IQ Fly front light (LED
    thing). I bought it as a replacement for a standard B+M Lumotec Oval which
    I found to be inadequate for unlit roads and paths.

    The IQ is much brighter and actually allows a decent speed (for me) to be
    maintained. Despite some light spillage close to the bike the beam is a
    decent width and projects well in front of the bike. Thoroughly recommended
    for £40 (obviously you need a dynamo as well!)

    Matt

    This may get me flamed for the URC equivalent of blasphemy, but does
    anyone think the IQ would/wouldn't work with a 6V Nicad Pack?

    Mike

  14. Quoted message said:
    Matt said:

    Had the first commute with the new B+M Lumotec IQ Fly front light (LED
    thing). I bought it as a replacement for a standard B+M Lumotec Oval which
    I found to be inadequate for unlit roads and paths.

    The IQ is much brighter and actually allows a decent speed (for me) to be
    maintained. Despite some light spillage close to the bike the beam is a
    decent width and projects well in front of the bike. Thoroughly recommended
    for £40 (obviously you need a dynamo as well!)

    Matt

    This may get me flamed for the URC equivalent of blasphemy, but does
    anyone think the IQ would/wouldn't work with a 6V Nicad Pack?

    Mike

    it won't, but isn't the IXION IQ the battery version?

    --
    /Marten

    info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl

  15. M-gineering said the following on 03/12/2007 09:20:

    Quoted message said:

    it won't

    Why not? NiMh would be better, but I don't see why it shouldn't work.

    --
    Paul Boyd
    http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

  16. Mon, 03 Dec 2007 10:44:44 +0000, Paul Boyd:

    Quoted message said:

    M-gineering said the following on 03/12/2007 09:20:

    Quoted message said:

    it won't

    Why not? NiMh would be better, but I don't see why it shouldn't work.

    The switching regulator inside is designed to be used on a current limited
    source at around 7-8 volt.

    At 6V D C the Fly IQ will only consume about 1 Watt. It will be very
    efficient but not very bright.

    With 6 NiMH cells in series (nominal 7.2 Volt but may be 8 Volt fresh from
    the charger) there is a high risc of damaging the LED.

    The IQ Fly is designed for the use with a hub dynamo. You won't be
    disappointed with this combination.

    Andreas

  17. In article said:


    The IQ Fly is designed for the use with a hub dynamo.

    Surely it's designed for use with B+M's bottle dynamos too?

  18. Alan Braggins said:

    In article <[email hidden]>, Andreas Oehler

    Quoted message said:


    The IQ Fly is designed for the use with a hub dynamo.

    Surely it's designed for use with B+M's bottle dynamos too?

    Yes, but fundamentally, "dynamos" for bicycles are AC generators. They are
    also designed as current limited devices, but with varying voltage. This
    means they can often generate more than 12v at higher road speeds, but still
    only at 0.5A of current. So the IQ Fly has electronics to make best use of
    this power supply.

    Batteries deliver pure DC. It is voltage limited, with pretty much any
    amount of current (until its so high that heat becomes an issue). A lamp
    designed for batteries would use that power appropriately.

    Plain old fashioned bulbs worked adequately on either source of power.

    - Nigel

    --
    Nigel Cliffe,
    Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

  19. Nigel Cliffe said:
    Alan Braggins said:

    In article <[email hidden]>, Andreas Oehler
    wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    The IQ Fly is designed for the use with a hub dynamo.

    Quoted message said:

    Surely it's designed for use with B+M's bottle dynamos too?

    Yes, but fundamentally, "dynamos" for bicycles are AC generators. They are
    also designed as current limited devices, but with varying voltage. This
    means they can often generate more than 12v at higher road speeds, but still
    only at 0.5A of current. So the IQ Fly has electronics to make best use of
    this power supply.

    Batteries deliver pure DC. It is voltage limited, with pretty much any
    amount of current (until its so high that heat becomes an issue). A lamp
    designed for batteries would use that power appropriately.

    Plain old fashioned bulbs worked adequately on either source of power.

    - Nigel

    --
    Nigel Cliffe,
    Webmaster athttp://www.2mm.org.uk/

    Thanks Everyone.

    I clearly need to rethink my lighting plans.

    Mike

  20. Nigel Cliffe said:


    Batteries deliver pure DC. It is voltage limited, with pretty much any
    amount of current (until its so high that heat becomes an issue).

    Not really. There is a definite upper limit to current draw from most
    chemistries. NiCd does very well, NiMH is less good.

    In the case of my model hovercraft, it wants to draw about 40A steady
    full-throttle, and about 50A transient if I go from idle to full
    throttle on the propulsion motors (the extra current is drawn while
    the fans spin up to speed). Sub-C NiCd cells will provide the 50A,
    moderately special NiMh sub-C cells can provide the 40A, but if you
    try and draw 50A the voltage collapses - the cells just can't deliver
    it (and what happens is the lift motor slows and you lose hover
    height). This is independent of heat effects - the packs don't get
    hot during the transient phase, but they do dramatically lose voltage.

    Of course, you're not very likely to be drawing 50A for bike lights,
    but actually the newer higher capacity rechargeables are becoming
    troublesome - there's a trade-off between charge capacity and current
    capability. My NiCds that can deliver 50A comfortably only get 1.4Ah
    in a Sub-C cell. The NiMHs that only manage 40A get twice that in the
    same physical package. As manufacturers push ever higher capacities,
    I believe they are doing it at the expense of current delivery.

    regards, Ian SMith
    --
    |\ /| no .sig
    |o o|
    |/ \|

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