Assembling Torker LX

The bolts have little tabs on them, which go into little slots on the
frame to keep them from rotating. Make sure the tabs have dropped down
into the slots. Also, the washer goes on the end with the nut, not the
bolt; on the nut end it would keep the nut from dropping down into where
it should go.

45 ft-pounds is pretty tight if you're hand-tightening. Just crank down
on it.

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tholub - Kinetic Sculptor
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Ok thanks, I think I may hav emessed up on the positioning of the
washer, so I'm gonna go try that out.

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nxixcxk
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Any ideas on how to remove the washer from the bolt? It's stuck way up
at the top right underneath the bolt head and I cannot seem to get it to
go down the spirally part of the bolt....argh so frustrating 😠

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nxixcxk
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you have to put the nut in the fork part of the bearing holder, then the
bolts go up (so they're upside-down) into the bearing cap and thru the
nuts

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'Torker USA' (http://www.torkerusa.com/) has a unicycle assembly manual
at their site. It's a PDF file.

Torker recommends 45 inch-pounds of torque on the bearing clamps. 45
inch-pounds is on the high side. Most people don't have a little torque
wrench that can measure that little torque.

My rule of thumb is to use just fingertip pressure on the allen key when
tightening the bearing clamp bolts. If you make a fist around the allen
key you will get it too tight. Just hold it by your finger tips. The
bearing clamps just need to be snug. It's going to be much less than 45
inch-pounds.

It is very very common to overtighten the bearing clamp bolts. It is
very easy to do. Screws and bolts can generate a lot of clamping force
with just a little bit of a turn. Just turning the bolts an additional
half turn could way overtighten them.

If you have problems with the bearing clamp bolts vibraring loose you
can use a little bit of light strength or medium strength Loctite.

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Oh, sorry, 45 inch-pounds isn't very much. 45 foot-pounds is quite a
bit more, in the "whale on it with a long-handled wrench" category;
that's what you'll need for the crank bolts, not for the bearing
holders. For the bearing holders, it's pretty light; usually I'll
finger-tighten them and then just give maybe one more full turn on each
of the four bolts. Basically you should tighten them until you start to
feel a bit of resistance, and not a lot more than that. Make sure the
wheel still spins freely after you tigthen them.

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tholub - Kinetic Sculptor
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this isnt rocket science fella's. ..tighten the bolts so they dont come
loose. a properly tightened unicycle Bearing cap isnt going to spin like
a freaking swiss precision bearing...

for unicycle sake, stop with the Torque wrench [censored]. maybe its just me
but i got more torque meter in my forearm than any mechanical device
when it comes to bearing holders.

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