JoanD'arcRoast <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
Product named "Dura-Fix". Zinc-based rods flow at 732 degrees F. Can be used with propane torch...
Questions:
1.) Do you think this is prudent building practice for a thin-walled "as-light-as-feasible" [not over-built] aluminum "space" frame?
2.) Would heat treatment still be necessary?
Thanks, -j
P.S. What was that exhaustive online catalog of Al & Ti wedgie bike parts? [I lost my links?]
Hi Joan, Zinc is not nearly strong enough to braze a bicycle frame with. Too weak and too soft. Weldng or high-tech gluing is the only way to go. Paul Milner
JoanD'arcRoast <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
Product named "Dura-Fix". Zinc-based rods flow at 732 degrees F. Can be used with propane torch...
Questions:
1.) Do you think this is prudent building practice for a thin-walled "as-light-as-feasible" [not over-built] aluminum "space" frame?
2.) Would heat treatment still be necessary?
Thanks, -j
P.S. What was that exhaustive online catalog of Al & Ti wedgie bike parts? [I lost my links?]
Hi Joan, Zinc is not nearly strong enough to braze a bicycle frame with. Too weak and too soft. Weldng or high-tech gluing is the only way to go. Paul Milner
Any pointers towards "high-tech" glues for aluminum? I've found a few references to using epoxies with aluminium. Products such as: "Metalmend" and "Marinetex" and some veiled references to the automobile industry...
I was curious if anyone here had any first-hand experience as well.
JoanD'arcRoast <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
In article <[email hidden]>, Paul
Milner said:
JoanD'arcRoast <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
Product named "Dura-Fix". Zinc-based rods flow at 732 degrees F. Can be used with propane torch...
Questions:
1.) Do you think this is prudent building practice for a thin-walled "as-light-as-feasible" [not over-built] aluminum "space" frame?
2.) Would heat treatment still be necessary?
Thanks, -j
P.S. What was that exhaustive online catalog of Al & Ti wedgie bike parts? [I lost my links?]
Hi Joan, Zinc is not nearly strong enough to braze a bicycle frame with. Too weak and too soft. Weldng or high-tech gluing is the only way to go. Paul Milner
Any pointers towards "high-tech" glues for aluminum? I've found a few references to using epoxies with aluminium. Products such as: "Metalmend" and "Marinetex" and some veiled references to the automobile industry...
I was curious if anyone here had any first-hand experience as well.
Thanks, -j
I would check in the aerospace industry. I don't know which glues they are. If , however, you know how to gas weld, lyou have about 80% of the welding motion down to TIG weld aluminum. Aluminum is not terribly difficult to learn to weld in this case. Paul Milner
JoanD'arcRoast <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
In article <[email hidden]>, Paul
Milner said:
JoanD'arcRoast <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>... > Product named "Dura-Fix". Zinc-based rods flow at 732 degrees F. Can be > used with propane torch... > > Questions: > > 1.) Do you think this is prudent building practice for a thin-walled > "as-light-as-feasible" [not over-built] aluminum "space" frame? > > 2.) Would heat treatment still be necessary? > > > > Thanks, > -j > > P.S. What was that exhaustive online catalog of Al & Ti wedgie bike > parts? [I lost my links?] Hi Joan, Zinc is not nearly strong enough to braze a bicycle frame with. Too weak and too soft. Weldng or high-tech gluing is the only way to go. Paul Milner
Any pointers towards "high-tech" glues for aluminum? I've found a few references to using epoxies with aluminium. Products such as: "Metalmend" and "Marinetex" and some veiled references to the automobile industry...
I was curious if anyone here had any first-hand experience as well.
Thanks, -j
I would check in the aerospace industry. I don't know which glues they are. If , however, you know how to gas weld, lyou have about 80% of the welding motion down to TIG weld aluminum. Aluminum is not terribly difficult to learn to weld in this case. Paul Milner
Okay, correct me if I'm wrong -- my impression was that if I weld aluminum, then I must heat treat the frame afterward. If I choose *not* to heat treat, I must design using heavier, thicker tubes... therefore obviating aluminum.
True. If you weld AL you SHOULD heat treat it to both relieve the weld joint stress and bring it back up to strength. You don't have to however and you don't need to go a LOT thicker either. Unless you're an engineer and can do the math (or know someone who can) you can use AL that has a little thicker walls (don't necessarily have to go a lot thicker), and after welding, shelve it for a few weeks and it will age harden and toughen up on it's own. It will not, however, go back to it's original strength properties or relieve the joint stress. It will be stronger than if you welded it and started using it within a matter of days though.
Quoted message said:
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> > 1.) Do you think this is prudent building practice for a
thin-walled
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> > "as-light-as-feasible" [not over-built] aluminum "space" frame? > > > > 2.) Would heat treatment still be necessary? > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > -j > > > > P.S. What was that exhaustive online catalog of Al & Ti wedgie
bike
Quoted message said:
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> > parts? [I lost my links?] > Hi Joan, > Zinc is not nearly strong enough to braze a bicycle frame with. Too > weak and too soft. Weldng or high-tech gluing is the only way to go. > Paul Milner
Any pointers towards "high-tech" glues for aluminum? I've found a few references to using epoxies with aluminium. Products such as: "Metalmend" and "Marinetex" and some veiled references to the automobile industry...
I was curious if anyone here had any first-hand experience as well.
Thanks, -j
I would check in the aerospace industry. I don't know which glues they are. If , however, you know how to gas weld, lyou have about 80% of the welding motion down to TIG weld aluminum. Aluminum is not terribly difficult to learn to weld in this case. Paul Milner
Okay, correct me if I'm wrong -- my impression was that if I weld aluminum, then I must heat treat the frame afterward. If I choose *not* to heat treat, I must design using heavier, thicker tubes... therefore obviating aluminum.
"Sticker Jim" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
True. If you weld AL you SHOULD heat treat it to both relieve the weld joint stress and bring it back up to strength. You don't have to however and you don't need to go a LOT thicker either. Unless you're an engineer and can do the math (or know someone who can) you can use AL that has a little thicker walls (don't necessarily have to go a lot thicker), and after welding, shelve it for a few weeks and it will age harden and toughen up on it's own. It will not, however, go back to it's original strength properties or relieve the joint stress. It will be stronger than if you welded it and started using it within a matter of days though.
If I recall correctly, It is not necessary to heat treat 7000 series Aluminum. I might be wrong, however. Paul Milner
"Paul Milner" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
"Sticker Jim" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
True. If you weld AL you SHOULD heat treat it to both relieve the weld joint stress and bring it back up to strength. You don't have to however and you don't need to go a LOT thicker either. Unless you're an engineer and can do the math (or know someone who can) you can use AL that has a little thicker walls (don't necessarily have to go a lot thicker), and after welding, shelve it for a few weeks and it will age harden and toughen up on it's own. It will not, however, go back to it's original strength properties or relieve the joint stress. It will be stronger than if you welded it and started using it within a matter of days though.
If I recall correctly, It is not necessary to heat treat 7000 series Aluminum. I might be wrong, however. Paul Milner
I recall brazing some aluminum once... It wasn't a pretty sight... :-))
"G. Morgan" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 03:39:49 GMT "Frank Olson" used 25 lines of text to write in newsgroup: alt.rec.bicycles.recumbent
Quoted message said:
I recall brazing some aluminum once... It wasn't a pretty sight... :-))
A Cessna fuselage doesn't count Frank. :-)
Why not?? :-))
My instructor for aircraft structures was from England. He pronounced the word "al-you-min-ium". The first day of class there was some confusion as to what he was talking about...
On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 20:46:04 GMT, "Frank Olson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message <giCad.713763$gE.298588@pd7tw3no>:
Quoted message said:
My instructor for aircraft structures was from England. He pronounced the word "al-you-min-ium". The first day of class there was some confusion as to what he was talking about...
"G. Morgan" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 20:46:04 GMT "Frank Olson" used 20 lines of text to write in newsgroup: alt.rec.bicycles.recumbent
Quoted message said:
Why not?? :-))
I assumed you did it at 80 MPH, grinding down the runway. :-)
Not quite. It was a good deal more hazardous than that. I "heroically" volunteered to climb out one of the over wing emergency exit windows in the 737 while it was upside down to braze the red navigation light back on. The wind was something fierce and I had to do it left handed as I was holding on for dear life with my right. I had to work the lighter for the torch with my teeth, and (not surprising) it kept blowing out on me. :-))
I also know of this really nice nearly new bridge that you can buy cheap. I'll need your Master Card number and the ID on the back to reserve it for you. Since my email's kinda slow today you can post it here in the group. I'm sure you can trust all the guys here.