Any Lightweight Metal Mudguards??

NYC XYZ said:

Plastic ones suck...they just crack.

Typically /not/ the case with SKS ones. They're not indestructible, but
they don't make a habit of cracking, and they don't bend, corrode and
weigh more like metal ones would.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

NYC XYZ said:

Plastic ones suck...they just crack. I think a metal one, say made out
of sufficiently strong aluminium, will be rugged for any stones and
twigs which wind up getting caught. So which ones for a 26" wheel,
please? I'm assuming such a thing exists. I have the HP Velo SMGTe
SWB, and the rear guard has cracked. Why don't they make these things
out of light-weight metal?? Copper costs pennies, I'm sure....

Check with www.wallbike.com and take a look at the Berthoud stainless
steel fenders. I've been using a set for the last three years without
any problems...

Actually, that's just the one I have. I ride pretty hard, mind you,
going off two-feet sidewalk curbs and potholes, yeah, but the front is
all right, so I can only imagine the back one had a stone pop it or
something. The SMGTe user's manual does mention something about
spacing the rear shock appropriately for fear of damaging the rear
guard, but I don't think it's on account of that that my guard's
cracked.

No, it's just plastic, and can only take so much. I'll need metal
ones. Surely someone's come up with some kind of non-corroding alloy
by now??? Hmm, maybe titanium mud guards???

Peter Clinch said:

Typically /not/ the case with SKS ones. They're not indestructible, but
they don't make a habit of cracking, and they don't bend, corrode and
weigh more like metal ones would.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

Seconded on the SKS (formerly ESGE) fenders, they last a looooong time
compared to any of the other plastic varieties.

I typically get 3-4 years (winter seasons in the PNW) out of them, maybe
something like 8-12K miles. They also over-build the metal parts on the SKS
fenders, that's another common point of failure in the other varieties.

-pete

"NYC XYZ" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Plastic ones suck...they just crack. I think a metal one, say made out
of sufficiently strong aluminium, will be rugged for any stones and
twigs which wind up getting caught. So which ones for a 26" wheel,
please? I'm assuming such a thing exists. I have the HP Velo SMGTe
SWB, and the rear guard has cracked. Why don't they make these things
out of light-weight metal?? Copper costs pennies, I'm sure....

NYC XYZ said:

Plastic ones suck...they just crack. I think a metal one, say made out
of sufficiently strong aluminium, will be rugged for any stones and
twigs which wind up getting caught. So which ones for a 26" wheel,
please? I'm assuming such a thing exists. I have the HP Velo SMGTe
SWB, and the rear guard has cracked. Why don't they make these things
out of light-weight metal?? Copper costs pennies, I'm sure....

http://www.jitensha.com/eng/fndrs_e.html

Properly mounted they last and are lightweight.

Mike Jenkins

Pete Grey said:

Seconded on the SKS (formerly ESGE) fenders, they last a looooong time
compared to any of the other plastic varieties.

I typically get 3-4 years (winter seasons in the PNW) out of them, maybe
something like 8-12K miles. They also over-build the metal parts on the SKS
fenders, that's another common point of failure in the other varieties.

-pete

I beg your pardon, but what's "over-build the metal parts" and how does
that make it a "common point of failure"??

I'm looking at my rear fender and I'm wondering if maybe I "tensed" it
up too much -- that is to say, whether I fiddled with the stays (or
whatever them thin metal rods are called) such that I introduced
tension which built up over time (I prefer my fenders a bit "higher"
because I imagined that would help prevent twigs getting caught)....

Quoted message said:

http://www.jitensha.com/eng/fndrs_e.html

Properly mounted they last and are lightweight.

Mike Jenkins

Looks nice enough. But are they compatible with the HP Velo SMGTe SWB
recumbent? I talked to some guy at the shop but he didn't know and,
while friendly enough, didn't seem interested in finding out. I myself
know nothing about fender technicalities. I'd assume that a fender for
26" wheels is universal, but apparently that's not necessarily the
case....

Sorry, I guess I wasn't very clear.

I meant to note that the metal parts on the SKS fenders are over-built,
about double the thickness as on other fenders.
Often, on other fender sets, I've had the metal support that attaches to the
brake-bridge snap.

I'm guessing something wasn't set up quite right on yours, if your SKS's
didn't last that long.
I've got a set on my winter bike and my loaded touring bike, a 26" wheel
setup that has gone many, many miles on gravel roads, etc.

Like I said, they do *eventually* break, but I'm guessing the alluminum
variety will as well. The only way to avoid that is probably steeel or Ti
fenders, one which is really heavy and I'm not sure anyone would ever
attempt to market a Ti variety...
My SKS fenders seem to outlast a couple of drivetrain (chain/cogset) changes
thou', which seems reasonable to me!

-pete

"NYC XYZ" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Pete Grey said:

Seconded on the SKS (formerly ESGE) fenders, they last a looooong time
compared to any of the other plastic varieties.

I typically get 3-4 years (winter seasons in the PNW) out of them, maybe
something like 8-12K miles. They also over-build the metal parts on the
SKS
fenders, that's another common point of failure in the other varieties.

-pete

I beg your pardon, but what's "over-build the metal parts" and how does
that make it a "common point of failure"??

I'm looking at my rear fender and I'm wondering if maybe I "tensed" it
up too much -- that is to say, whether I fiddled with the stays (or
whatever them thin metal rods are called) such that I introduced
tension which built up over time (I prefer my fenders a bit "higher"
because I imagined that would help prevent twigs getting caught)....

NYC XYZ said:

Plastic ones suck...they just crack. I think a metal one, say made out
of sufficiently strong aluminium, will be rugged for any stones and
twigs which wind up getting caught. So which ones for a 26" wheel,
please? I'm assuming such a thing exists. I have the HP Velo SMGTe
SWB, and the rear guard has cracked. Why don't they make these things
out of light-weight metal?? Copper costs pennies, I'm sure....

They do and I've had a set of the really light aluminum ones. After a
few years of real use, they look like crumpled cans. If I had the dough
and the initiative, I'd get some hammered Honjo ones. Not available in
26, AFAIK.

landotter said:

They do and I've had a set of the really light aluminum ones. After a
few years of real use, they look like crumpled cans. If I had the dough
and the initiative, I'd get some hammered Honjo ones. Not available in
26, AFAIK.

They must be because I've got a pair in the closet.
Phil Brown

philcycles said:

landotter said:

They do and I've had a set of the really light aluminum ones. After a
few years of real use, they look like crumpled cans. If I had the dough
and the initiative, I'd get some hammered Honjo ones. Not available in
26, AFAIK.

They must be because I've got a pair in the closet.
Phil Brown

D'oh, didn't scroll to the end of the page:
http://www.jitensha.com/eng/fndrs_e.html

$57, very fair considering the quality.

Though, what's the deal with mounting hardware, is anything included
short of struts?

In article <[email hidden]>,

landotter said:

philcycles said:

landotter said:

They do and I've had a set of the really light aluminum ones.
After a few years of real use, they look like crumpled cans. If I
had the dough and the initiative, I'd get some hammered Honjo
ones. Not available in 26, AFAIK.

They must be because I've got a pair in the closet. Phil Brown

D'oh, didn't scroll to the end of the page:
http://www.jitensha.com/eng/fndrs_e.html

$57, very fair considering the quality.

Though, what's the deal with mounting hardware, is anything included
short of struts?

The fender price is just the fenders. You buy the struts, eyebolts, etc
separately. And given the Japanese names it's a little confusing.

You can also order them from Jim at Hiawatha Cyclery in Minneapolis.
He's a good guy that I have done a lot of business with. Just tell him
you need to full set

http://www.hiawathacyclery.com

"landotter" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

philcycles said:

landotter said:

They do and I've had a set of the really light aluminum ones. After a
few years of real use, they look like crumpled cans. If I had the dough
and the initiative, I'd get some hammered Honjo ones. Not available in
26, AFAIK.

They must be because I've got a pair in the closet.
Phil Brown

D'oh, didn't scroll to the end of the page:
http://www.jitensha.com/eng/fndrs_e.html

$57, very fair considering the quality.

Though, what's the deal with mounting hardware, is anything included
short of struts?

Looks like the mounting kit is about $70.00. Too bad they don't make them
for my trike. I've got the PlanetBike set on mine and they're cracked and
repaired. I don't like them. Maybe they could do a custom order for 18" and
20" sets. The planet bike set costs me nearly $100.00 from Catrike, I'd pay
twice that for these.

Grolsch

NYC XYZ said:

Plastic ones suck...they just crack. I think a metal one, say made
out of sufficiently strong aluminium, will be rugged for any stones
and twigs which wind up getting caught. So which ones for a 26"
wheel, please? I'm assuming such a thing exists. I have the HP Velo
SMGTe SWB, and the rear guard has cracked. Why don't they make these
things out of light-weight metal?? Copper costs pennies, I'm sure....

Good "plastic" mudguards like SKS's are actually aluminium sandwich, with
metal for the filling and plastic for the bread. It's known as
chromoplastic. I did have one of this type crack (Raleigh) - but only after
ten years of hard use and abuse.

To help deal with nasty stuff that gets caught, front SKS guards also have a
break-away feature instead of being strongly fixed to the fork eyes.

Mudguards made entirely of metal are very noisy, by the way.

~PB

NYC XYZ said:

Plastic ones suck...they just crack. I think a metal one, say made out
of sufficiently strong aluminium, will be rugged for any stones and
twigs which wind up getting caught. So which ones for a 26" wheel,
please? I'm assuming such a thing exists. I have the HP Velo SMGTe
SWB, and the rear guard has cracked. Why don't they make these things
out of light-weight metal?? Copper costs pennies, I'm sure....

GILLES Berthoud or Honjo..'google' them to see if they make a 26 inch
size.

In article <[email hidden]>,
"Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Mudguards made entirely of metal are very noisy, by the way.

There should be no rattles from properly mounted aluminum or steel
fenders (mudguards for rightpondians). "Properly mounted" means using
leather washers between the bolts mounting the fenders to the frame and
the fenders. Aluminum fenders are prone to cracking if improperly
mounted; this is less of an issue with steel fenders.

If you have to use a crimp-on hanger at the rear brake bridge (e.g.,
your frame does not have a fender boss there- and few do) then that will
be prone to rattling and something should be placed in there to damp
that.

Metal fenders will tend to be noisier when stuff is hitting them,
though. Proper mounting decreases some of that, too, but can't take
away this noise entirely.

Mounting metal fenders is more difficult than mounting plastic ones like
Esge/SKS. Very few frames sold in the US are designed for fenders- most
are designed like road racing frames. Bikes designed for fenders have
adequate clearance at the fork crown, chainstay bridge and brake bridge.
All three points are a constant distance from the axle center on bikes
designed for fenders (about 35.5 cm for a 700C wheel) to allow clearance
for a 28 mm tire with about an 8 mm gap between the tire and fender.
That'll be a no-go on your Trek Madone, but even 'cross bikes can be
problematic for mounting fenders. Such a simple thing, but few bike
makers even think about it.

Tim McNamara said:

In article <[email hidden]>,
"Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Mudguards made entirely of metal are very noisy, by the way.

There should be no rattles from properly mounted aluminum or steel
fenders (mudguards for rightpondians). "Properly mounted" means using
leather washers between the bolts mounting the fenders to the frame
and the fenders. Aluminum fenders are prone to cracking if improperly
mounted; this is less of an issue with steel fenders.

If you have to use a crimp-on hanger at the rear brake bridge (e.g.,
your frame does not have a fender boss there- and few do) then that
will be prone to rattling and something should be placed in there to
damp that.

Metal fenders will tend to be noisier when stuff is hitting them,
though. Proper mounting decreases some of that, too, but can't take
away this noise entirely.

That's what I was mainly thinking of. Every particle of gravel makes a loud
noise. Leaving a large amount of clearance helps but that's not always
possible or desirable for good protection.

~PB

If you are in Vancouver and you ride a recumbent the best place for those
owners is Cambie Cycles. The owner has been a recumbent rider forever if he
is still there.

Cheers

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

GILLES Berthoud or Honjo..'google' them to see if they make a 26 inch
size.

Thing is, no one knows whether they go with the HP Velo SMGTe, and it
seems there's no return policy either....