An 18 lb Chromoly bent?

[email hidden] (TwoYearDouble) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

The Tri-Sled Nitro looks like a fun bike: trisled.com.aunitro.htmOpen ↗

At 8.2 Kilos (18 lbs), its got be the lightest production CroMo bent, if not bike of any kind, in
the world. Has anyone got any experience with Tri-Sled?

I have a (prototype) TriSled Kickback. It was an affordable and relatively light trike considering
the competition at the time. It has been VERY reliable, comfortable and fast. Ben Goodall definitely
knows what he's doing.

Re the Nitro, I'm sure they will make them 16/20 or 20/20 and with a bigger chainring, on request.

[email hidden] (TwoYearDouble) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

The Tri-Sled Nitro looks like a fun bike: trisled.com.aunitro.htmOpen ↗

At 8.2 Kilos (18 lbs), its got be the lightest production CroMo bent, if not bike of any kind, in
the world. Has anyone got any experience with Tri-Sled?

A single chainwheel, and NO rear brake! Why not just take off the wheels and really make it light?

They estimate a price of $4500 AUS.

(Jun Nogami) said:

They estimate a price of $4500 AUS.

I don't see prices for any of their models on the website. Do you have to contact them to see if
they're in your price range?

Gary

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Twoyeardouble
The Tri-Sled Nitro looks like a fun bike: trisled.com.aunitro.htmOpen ↗

At 8.2 Kilos (18 lbs), its got be the lightest production CroMo bent, if not bike of any kind, in
the world. Has anyone got any experience with Tri-Sled?

When you say "Production" I guess you mean a bike by a noted manufacturer displayed on a website.
As far as I know there is only one nitro prototype.
Using 0.9mm wall cro mo tubing does not make a rigid bike for drag races and criteriums, more like a wet noodle bike.
Pete
OzHPV Canberra

cbb said:

I've heard that alot of bike couriers use a single speed with only a front brake. After all on dry
pavement you stop fastest with only the front brake (see Sheldon Brown for a better
explaination)....

This is only true if the back wheel will lift off the ground before the front wheel loses traction -
almost always true for upright bikes on dry pavement but not for some recumbents with low and/or
rearward combined rider/bike centers of mass.

Tom Sherman - Near the confluence of the Mississippi and Rock Rivers

True, but I know I have caused the rear tire of my Baron to skid quite a few times during rapid
deacclerations. I doubt you would be able to stop this bike much faster with both brakes. I think it
makes alot of sense to learn to rely more on the front brake on a SWB bike. LWB bikes are a
different story as the front is very lightly loaded and likely to skid easily if braked hard. Craig

Tom Sherman <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

cbb said:

I've heard that alot of bike couriers use a single speed with only a front brake. After all on
dry pavement you stop fastest with only the front brake (see Sheldon Brown for a better
explaination)....

This is only true if the back wheel will lift off the ground before the front wheel loses traction
- almost always true for upright bikes on dry pavement but not for some recumbents with low and/or
rearward combined rider/bike centers of mass.

Tom Sherman - Near the confluence of the Mississippi and Rock Rivers

(cbb) said:

True, but I know I have caused the rear tire of my Baron to skid quite a few times during rapid
deacclerations. I doubt you would be able to stop this bike much faster with both brakes. I think
it makes alot of sense to learn to rely more on the front brake on a SWB bike. LWB bikes are a
different story as the front is very lightly loaded and likely to skid easily if braked hard.

This has also been my experience. This is why some European SWB's have (or at least used to have)
the front brake routed to the right lever. People seem to always squeeze with the right by reflex.
Bryan J. Ball Editor/Publisher www.bentrideronline.com

I find that my Wishbone has a lot of rear brake, something recumbent bikes have over any high CG
road bike. IMO on wet or loose pavement, rear braking is the best way to go for controlled
deceleration. I never bought into the front only braking that I see mentioned by some others (not
specifically here though)

Since I ride a variety of machines, I like the levers to be consistent. Of course my Catrike is the
exception to things. Dave

[email hidden] ('BentRider) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

(cbb) said:

True, but I know I have caused the rear tire of my Baron to skid quite a few times during rapid
deacclerations. I doubt you would be able to stop this bike much faster with both brakes. I think
it makes alot of sense to learn to rely more on the front brake on a SWB bike. LWB bikes are a
different story as the front is very lightly loaded and likely to skid easily if braked hard.

This has also been my experience. This is why some European SWB's have (or at least used to have)
the front brake routed to the right lever. People seem to always squeeze with the right by reflex.
Bryan J. Ball Editor/Publisher www.bentrideronline.com

[email hidden] (BikerTriker) wrote in :"]news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

I find that my Wishbone has a lot of rear brake, something recumbent bikes have over any high CG
road bike. IMO on wet or loose pavement, rear braking is the best way to go for controlled
deceleration. I never bought into the front only braking that I see mentioned by some others (not
specifically here though)

Using only the front brake on a SWB while turning AND hitting something like grit or slippery stuff
on the pavement is asking for trouble.

Quoted message said:

Since I ride a variety of machines, I like the levers to be consistent.

Me too. The first thing I did on my Haluzak was change the cable orientation.

Quoted message said:

Of course my Catrike is the exception to things. Dave

The Wishbone/T-Bone has the front wheel further forward than most SWBs. This results in a more
rearward weight bias and makes the rear brakes more effective in hard braking. I'm sure alot of the
long and low recumbents can slide the front tire before lifting the rear but most of the SWBs can
probably lift the rear first. If you can lift the rear under extreme braking you can stop faster by
only applying the front brake. There are ofcourse exceptions such as rough corners and loose or
slippery surfaces. Sheldon Brown does a very good job describing why this is true and how it works.
sheldonbrown.combrakturn.htmlOpen ↗

Craig

[email hidden] (BikerTriker) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

I find that my Wishbone has a lot of rear brake, something recumbent bikes have over any high CG
road bike. IMO on wet or loose pavement, rear braking is the best way to go for controlled
deceleration. I never bought into the front only braking that I see mentioned by some others (not
specifically here though)

Since I ride a variety of machines, I like the levers to be consistent. Of course my Catrike is
the exception to things. Dave

[email hidden] ('BentRider) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

(cbb) said:

True, but I know I have caused the rear tire of my Baron to skid quite a few times during rapid
deacclerations. I doubt you would be able to stop this bike much faster with both brakes. I
think it makes alot of sense to learn to rely more on the front brake on a SWB bike. LWB bikes
are a different story as the front is very lightly loaded and likely to skid easily if braked
hard.

This has also been my experience. This is why some European SWB's have (or at least used to
have) the front brake routed to the right lever. People seem to always squeeze with the right by
reflex. Bryan J. Ball Editor/Publisher www.bentrideronline.com

cbb said:

The Wishbone/T-Bone has the front wheel further forward than most SWBs. This results in a more
rearward weight bias and makes the rear brakes more effective in hard braking. I'm sure alot of
the long and low recumbents can slide the front tire before lifting the rear but most of the SWBs
can probably lift the rear first. If you can lift the rear under extreme braking you can stop
faster by only applying the front brake. There are ofcourse exceptions such as rough corners and
loose or slippery surfaces. Sheldon Brown does a very good job describing why this is true and how
it works. sheldonbrown.combrakturn.htmlOpen ↗

Craig

[email hidden] (BikerTriker) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

I find that my Wishbone has a lot of rear brake, something recumbent bikes have over any high CG
road bike....

Here is a picture of the Wishbone in question. < liegeradinfo.dewisbone2.jpgOpen ↗ >

I agree that the rear brake on this bike is quite effective. [1]

[1] I used to own it. [2]
[2] This bike was Bryan Ball's BROL test bike.

Tom Sherman - Near the confluence of the Mississippi and Rock Rivers