On 23 Mar 2005 20:20:42 -0800, "wle" <[email hidden]> may have
Quoted message said:i was trying to think of an alternative to an official cable cutter.
A Dremel tool with a cutoff disc is a good alternative, particularly
for the casing.
Quoted message said:can steel cable be soldered?
Most of the time, yes, if you're careful, with a little practice and
the right heat source.
Quoted message said:what about stainless?
Sometimes, if you have the right solder and flux, and/or have some
phosphoric acid to pretreat it with.
Quoted message said:if so you could solder the 1/2" area you want to make a cut in, cut it,
and
then use it as normal.. the soldered area would be
in the holding screw anyway...
Not a good idea. Fiirst, the clamped portion should not be soldered;
try it and you'll discover why. Also, if you cut the cable that close
to the exact length required, you leave very little room for
subsequent adjustment. It's generally considered wiser to leave about
35-40mm of extra cable, and crimp or solder the last 10mm of it to
prevent unravelling.
Quoted message said:what about gluing strands together somehow, then cutting?
The glue can shatter, leaving you with a cable end that's no longer as
compact as it was. A good cable shear, such as the Park unit, will
not cause the cable to unwind when cut. It is not necessary to try to
immobilize the strands if you use the correct tool to cut the cable.
Quoted message said:what about wrapping the end in plumbers teflon tape to avoid
separation?
Teflon tape has no adhesive; it's useless for this. I have used
plastic tool grip dip coating with limited success, I've used
superglue with moderately good results for short periods of time (it
tends to fail in six months or so outdoors), and there are tapes with
aggressive adhesive properties which might work, but crimped ends or
soldered ends are the two methods that have the best record when it
come to permanence.
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