John Retchford said:
"ajames54" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:Quoted message said:
I've been using ATF for close to 12 years now... and far prefer it to anything packaged for
bikes...
You have made this comment before - many times. You have never justified it and do not do so now.
On 18 June 2002 you wrote:
Very true I've made it many more times under other nyms as well probably going back as far as '94,
in the past I have indeed justified my belief. In short ATF and other light hydraulic type oils
contain additives designed to improve..
volatility - they do not evaporate as quickly as unmodified oil of similar viscosity. dispersancy
(sp?) - the ability to move material in suspension away from sensitive areas. detergency (sp?) - the
ability to keep parts clean.
But as I said this is a religion for most people around here.. Ask a wax user who first recommended
canning wax and why.
Quoted message said:
"after a ride all you will have to do is spray off the [censored] with a hose... this includes your
cranks / chain / derailleur... if the ride was really gross add a LOT of ATF and run the chain up
and down the rings a few times."
I post that because that is what I do .. it is what my wife does... it is what most of my friends
do.. and what a large number of people I ride with do... should everyone do it? Personally I don't
care, if however anyone asks I tell them what I do and why ... (that religion thing again, at least
I don't knock on your door)
Quoted message said:
Many participants on this discussion group would feel that this is very poor advice. Embed the
grit, then add lubricant to complete the grinding paste. The FAQ makes good reading on this topic.
Many participants in this group believe linear spoke lacing to be a good idea, or say for example
using canning wax on your chain. But to address you point.. Do you remove and clean your chain as
per the FAQ after every ride? No? Adding new oil of any sort will dilute the existing scack allowing
some of it to be removed simply by wiping it away ... if there is a lot of scack adding a lot of oil
will dilute it even more and when the excess is wiped (or washed) away. ATF is very easy to clean up
and does not make the excess oil mess to the same extent as other oils. I don't believe I ever
suggested that this was a replacement method to "proper" chain maintenance.
Quoted message said:
The ATF made to GM specifications (the stuff you recommend in some of your writings) is described
by Castrol as "Friction modified to provide improved durability and to ensure smooth transmission
operation over the life of the vehicle"
what they also do is add chemicals to improve the characteristics outlined above ...
Quoted message said:
The conventional recipe for good chain life is to keep the chain clean by proper washing (see FAQ),
then oil it with something designed to lubricate. Cheapskates like me use motor car engine oil.
Go wild... ATF is lighter and easier to clean up than Mobil 1.
Quoted message said:Others use snake oil from a bicycle shop. Take your pick - I don't think the lubricant has a very
demanding job in a bicycle chain - the important thing is that there is some. It is grit that does
the damage.
On this I agree
Quoted message said:But I do wish you would stop pushing ATF (I count six plugs in the last year)
well ya caught me I guess ... the international oil cartels actually send me 1/2 of a cent for every
liter of ATF sold.
Quoted message said:as though it has some magical property that proper (and cheaper) lubricants lack.
I don't know about magical but It does have some engineered properties that are superior to many
other lubricants ... (and probably some that are inferior depending on POV) .. and as I've said...
it's like a religion... you use what you want and I'll use what I want. But if someone asks I'll
tell them.
HAND