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Alps advice (Mt Buet)

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General fitness, health and nutrition
Published
17 May 2004
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17 May 2004
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Electric Death
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  1. Hi all,

    Instead of spendind my 21st in the pub, I've opted for a
    more memorable alpine ascent ;o) I initially wanted to do
    mont blanc but have decided that I'm not ready yet, as an
    alternative, and so I can still see the beast, I want to
    climb Mt Buet. I have never climbed anything that big before
    (in fact the highest I've gone is Ben Nevis). Can Anybody
    offer advice as to what I'll ned to take with me?

    I'm a keen rock climber so am pretty good with a rope and
    associated kit, I've also got all the warm clothing and down
    bag (from much time spent hiking in the lakes (in Winter))
    plus walking crampons and ice axe.

    I feel like I have all the correct gear and knowledge but
    wanted to be sure and know if there's anything else worth
    mentioning? Is it worth walking roped together, or would
    that be slightly OTT for a relative mole hill?

    We have, in total, 5 and a half days to make the journey
    there (by car), the ascent and the return trip. That should
    give us two days to actualy walk up it. I know it's only
    4000m but as I've never done anything this high, I was
    wondering if that would be enough time to to acclimatise? I
    know not to push my luck if AMS shows it's face.

    Thanks for any advice. dum, dum, dum...another one bites the
    dust. dum, dum, dum

  2. Which Mont Buet is that? The one I know of is only 3096m.

    The equipment you will need in the Alps depends very much on
    the mountain and the time of year. When are you going?

    Acclimatisation varies a lot from person to person. In 2
    days you won't acclimatise much, but this shouldn't be too
    much of a problem for a 4000m peak as you probably wouldn't
    be camping above 3500m, and sleeping altitude is the most
    important thing. Even when fully acclimatised you will move
    much more slowly at high altitudes, so expect to take longer
    than usual when you get above about 3000.

    Adrian

    "Electric Death Ferret" <[email hidden]> wrote
    in message news:20040512163012.10255.00001289@mb-
    m05.aol.com...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi all,

    Instead of spendind my 21st in the pub, I've opted for a
    more memorable


    alpine

    Quoted message said:

    ascent ;o) I initially wanted to do mont blanc but have
    decided that I'm


    not

    Quoted message said:

    ready yet, as an alternative, and so I can still see the
    beast, I want to


    climb

    Quoted message said:

    Mt Buet. I have never climbed anything that big before (in
    fact the


    highest

    Quoted message said:

    I've gone is Ben Nevis). Can Anybody offer advice as to
    what I'll ned to


    take

    Quoted message said:

    with me?

    I'm a keen rock climber so am pretty good with a rope and
    associated kit,


    I've

    Quoted message said:

    also got all the warm clothing and down bag (from much
    time spent hiking


    in the

    Quoted message said:

    lakes (in Winter)) plus walking crampons and ice axe.

    I feel like I have all the correct gear and knowledge but
    wanted to be


    sure and

    Quoted message said:

    know if there's anything else worth mentioning? Is it
    worth walking roped together, or would that be slightly
    OTT for a relative mole hill?

    We have, in total, 5 and a half days to make the journey
    there (by car),


    the

    Quoted message said:

    ascent and the return trip. That should give us two days
    to actualy walk


    up it.

    Quoted message said:

    I know it's only 4000m but as I've never done anything
    this high, I was wondering if that would be enough time to
    to acclimatise? I know not to


    push my

    Quoted message said:

    luck if AMS shows it's face.

    Thanks for any advice. dum, dum, dum...another one bites
    the dust. dum, dum, dum

  3. Get a guide!

    --

    "Electric Death Ferret" <[email hidden]> wrote
    in message news:20040512163012.10255.00001289@mb-
    m05.aol.com...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi all,

    Instead of spendind my 21st in the pub, I've opted for a
    more memorable


    alpine

    Quoted message said:

    ascent ;o) I initially wanted to do mont blanc but have
    decided that I'm


    not

    Quoted message said:

    ready yet, as an alternative, and so I can still see the
    beast, I want to


    climb

    Quoted message said:

    Mt Buet. I have never climbed anything that big before (in
    fact the


    highest

    Quoted message said:

    I've gone is Ben Nevis). Can Anybody offer advice as to
    what I'll ned to


    take

    Quoted message said:

    with me?

    I'm a keen rock climber so am pretty good with a rope and
    associated kit,


    I've

    Quoted message said:

    also got all the warm clothing and down bag (from much
    time spent hiking


    in the

    Quoted message said:

    lakes (in Winter)) plus walking crampons and ice axe.

    I feel like I have all the correct gear and knowledge but
    wanted to be


    sure and

    Quoted message said:

    know if there's anything else worth mentioning? Is it
    worth walking roped together, or would that be slightly
    OTT for a relative mole hill?

    We have, in total, 5 and a half days to make the journey
    there (by car),


    the

    Quoted message said:

    ascent and the return trip. That should give us two days
    to actualy walk


    up it.

    Quoted message said:

    I know it's only 4000m but as I've never done anything
    this high, I was wondering if that would be enough time to
    to acclimatise? I know not to


    push my

    Quoted message said:

    luck if AMS shows it's face.

    Thanks for any advice. dum, dum, dum...another one bites
    the dust. dum, dum, dum

  4. In article <[email hidden]>,
    Electric Death Ferret <[email hidden]> writes

    Quoted message said:

    I want to climb Mt Buet.

    Hi EDF!

    I'll assume you are referring to Le Buet (3094m) in the
    Chamonix valley.

    You do not mention when you are going. The following refers
    to the end of the summer season (September). In June through
    July, snow conditions are likely to be a more serious
    consideration, but I do not know specifically for this hill.

    I have climbed the hill (alone), but it was something like
    23/24 years ago so my memory of it is hazy. As I recall, in
    high summer season it was a walk requiring no technical
    climbing skills on rock, snow or ice. There are no glacier
    crossings.

    The weather may be good enough to go up and down in minimal
    clothing, but I would carry the gear I usually take in the
    UK in winter - include a bivvy bag for emergencies. Check
    the weather forecast in Chamonix and respond accordingly -
    you would not want to be caught in an alpine storm even on a
    relatively minor hill.

    I will undoubtedly have carried ice axe and crampons
    because, like you, I did not know with any certainty what
    to expect. However, I am reasonably sure that I did not
    use either.

    A quick google search pulled up commercial walking holiday
    sites which advertise itineraries with an ascent of Le Buet
    included. The holidays are described as walking trips
    suitable for reasonably fit hill walkers.

    The companies appear to include a night in the nearby hut
    (Refuge de la Pierre a Berard). However, I found it to be a
    reasonable day trip from the valley. I caught an early train
    from Chamonix to *Le Buet station?*, walked up a beautiful
    valley in the early morning sunshine to the hut (no memory
    of this building at all), climbed the hill, sat on the top
    in glorious weather and enjoyed the spectacular views for an
    age, then reversed my route. I was back in Cham. some time
    in the late afternoon. I was quite fit at the time - you may
    prefer a two day trip.

    You will almost certainly feel the effects of altitude, but
    acclimatisation should not be a serious issue at 3,000m max.
    However, if your five day period allows, you could start by
    doing a simple alpine walk eg cable car to Plan de
    l'Aguille, walk to Montenvers, walk down or catch the train.
    This will give you a feel for the terrain, and an
    opportunity to assess how you are going.

    For someone with no alpine experience and with very limited
    time, Le Buet is a great opportunity to get in among the
    peaks, to climb a big hill (relatively), and to enjoy some
    of the most spectacular mountain views in Europe, and
    without the acclimatisation problems and risks of more
    serious ascents - enjoy.

    Disclaimer: this is not authoritative advice, just a
    reflection of my personal experience. Consult guide books
    and maps. Seek advice about conditions for the time of year
    you are going - if you anticipate the need for ice axe and
    crampons, don't go on the hill without learning how to use
    them first. If you doubt your ability to do it on your own,
    sign up for a professionally run holiday, or hire a guide /
    join a guided party in Chamonix.

    HTH
    --

    Russ Clare

  5. Sorry if this top posts, it's the AOL news client and
    although I work with computers for a living, I have no idea
    how to use it.

    Oops, I knew it was 3096m but in a slightly tipsy state when
    I posted that, I thought "I'll round it up, it's only 4m
    away from 4000". I know. I'm not usually that stupid. ;o)

    We're planning on going On the 22nd May. Although as I was
    typing this, there was bad news and we *might* have to
    postpone until mid June.

    I don't want to get a guide either, climbing, in my eyes at
    least, isn't about being escorted up a mountain.

    Thanks

  6. Thankyou so much. That was a very helpful reply. dum, dum,
    dum...another one bites the dust. dum, dum, dum

  7. "Electric Death Ferret" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Sorry if this top posts, it's the AOL news client and
    although I work with computers for a living, I have no
    idea how to use it.

    Oops, I knew it was 3096m but in a slightly tipsy state
    when I posted


    that, I

    Quoted message said:

    thought "I'll round it up, it's only 4m away from 4000". I
    know. I'm not usually that stupid. ;o)

    3096 + 4 = 3100

    or am I wrong?

    Rory

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