Sam123 said:What would you rate that bike overall out of 10?
Im coming up for 16.
And it will be my 2nd Road bike.
Cant buy a really expensive one at my age really.. :\
Gradually work my way up.
I would only rate the Claud Butler bike as a 5-out-of-10 ...
MOST of what is on your current frame can be used on a different ROAD bike frame ...
You should be able to use the wheels, brake levers + shifters, saddle, crank, bottom bracket, handlebars ...
The exceptions MAY-or-may-not be the front derailleur (because of the clamp size) and the seatpost (because the size still varies between frames, but the variation is limited to only a few sizes, now, compared to increments of 0.2mm from 25.0mm to 31.8mm in the past!).
The rear brake cable may need to be replaced with a longer one, but maybe not.
You MAY want to buy different brake calipers because your current brakes use hex nuts, and most "new" frames use recessed bolts ...
Your rear caliper should be good-to-go on a fork which uses a recessed nut BUT recessed nuts are generally over-priced (and, you will still need a caliper with a shorter bolt for the rear) ... and, an inexpensive pair of brake calipers is probably only a little more expensive as the cost of two recessed nuts; so, you really may be better off buying a pair of brake calipers.
The type of fork dictates the type of headset (which is also dictated by the frame) and the type of stem.
So, you only need a frame-and-fork, headset, older/non-OS stem ... perhaps a new front derailleur & a new seatpost ... plus, brake calipers ... plus, a headset + stem.
I'm going to guess a 120mm stem will work for you with a frame whose real-or-virtual top tube length is 58cm.
BEFORE you transfer parts from one frame to the other, just be sure you understand how it is attached to the old frame.
Your current derailleur cables appear to have enough excess length that they should be long enough for a larger frame.
The Bottom Bracket requires a bike specific tool for installation & removal. The crankset you have requires a crank puller to remove it + an 8mm Allen wrench to remove/install the crank bolts. You will need a chain "break"/tool to remove/install the chain. Most of the other tools you will need (e.g., Allen wrenches, regular wrenches, etc.) are available from a hardware store & the least expensive are usually good enough (professional auto mechanics require 'better' tools).
The ONLY true peculiarity you need to be aware of is that you will encounter LEFT HAND threading on two parts ... and, you already know that from the pedal on the left crank arm. The OTHER left hand thread is on the driveside BB "cup" ...
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If you don't have bicycle-specific tools, then I suggest that you consider buying an inexpensive bicycle tool kit (the kind that probably retails for about £65 & comes in a notebook sized plastic case -- they are available for about half that much through mail-order in the States, so hopefully the same is true where you are) ... you could just buy the few bike-specific tools you need, but the cost may be close to the mail order price of the toolkit (some of the tools will be high quality, some not so much so) ... so, let your wallet be your guide.
You will also need some white lithium grease (available at most stores which have an automotive section).
Take your current bike apart and then put it back together ...
First, take the front wheel off. Put it back on.
Take the rear wheel off. Put it back on.
Loosen the handlebar stem and slide it part of the way out of the fork & slide it back in -- secure.
Take the seatpost out of the frame (put a piece of tape at the junction of the seatpost & frame so you know how far to put it back into the frame) & put it back on.
Assembling a new bike from the ground up isn't much more complicated than that -- and, while you cannot be a complete klutz and expect to put a bike together from scratch, the skill level is generally what is required for opening a jar of pickles & putting the lid back on.
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Frames ARE available separately. As I said, the price range is wide; but, a comparable frame should be available for £200-or-less if you just look around.
Heck, you can get a new Carbon Fibre frame from eBay (from Asia) for about £200 + shipping (duty extra, of course) ... some are listed with some of the loose stuff you would need (headset, seatpost) for around £250, I think ... use those frames as a price benchmark for how much you should pay for an aluminum frame (i.e., LESS) OR a complete bike. Of course, you'll need one of your parents to make the actual transaction.
I think that spending about £400 for parts & tools + some of your time is better than spending £549 which the Claud Butler will cost.
Depending on the frame & fork, with the same components, the I would rate the 'new' bike as a 5-or-6 out of 10.
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In the future, when you feel like spending more money, I would be looking at a pair of pre-2009 Campagnolo 10-speed shifters (based on the here-and-now) which should be available for £100, or less!?!
I would then use a Shimano 9-speed Ultegra-or-MTB rear derailleur & chain.
BUT, I would use an 8-speed Shimano cassette.
The odd combination is close-to-perfectly matched with one-another.
BTW. If you don't have any younger siblings, then I think that you would be able to sell the remnants that you don't transfer (frame/fork/headset + stem + brake calipers +/- the front derailleur +/- seatpost) for between £40-to-£90.
If you do have younger siblings, then just plan on moving the cannibalized parts back onto your "old"/(current) frame if-and-when you make any upgrades to whatever frame you buy-and-build-up.
If you were to get one of the Asian Carbon Fibre frames (most CF bicycle frames are fabricated in Asia, now), and change the shifters & derailleurs in the future, then for less than about £200, more, you could have a bike that would be about a 7 out of 10 -- a significantly better bike for only a little more than (and, if you are a wise shopper, less than) the cost of the Claud Butler.
