I have a collection of Spinervals DVD which I find great for indoor training sessions.
However Coach Troy provides gearing and cadence based on Kurt Kinetic trainers - I have Cycleops Fluid and Elite Mag trainers so I'm never completely sure if I'm using correct gearing / cadence and therefore doing the workout properly. The only other indicater of workload is percieved exertion bar at the top right of screen. - which I find of very limited use.
I find on the Cycleops Fluid, I need to be a couple of gears easier to get the cadence specified and in the right level of exertion. The cycleops seems to be a little harder than the KK trainer - would be interested in experience of those that have used both trainers.
I tend to use % of max HR to gauge which zone/range/bracket Im working in ( the various zones different coaches work with is another matter again) so my suggestion to the spinervlas producers would to use this measurement when specifying intensity - it applies to all regardless of fitness level and this series is about working at correct intensities.
How have others adpated their Spinervals sessions to account for differences in trainer resistances and type?
How have others adpated their Spinervals sessions to account for differences in trainer resistances and type?
I did a fair amount of indoor trainer riding to Spinervals last winter. Of course the gearing suggestions are rediculous based on the fluid trainers. I didn't really worry too much about being in a certain gear that he told me to be in but rather focused on holding the intensity level he was asking for the suggested time frame. After doing the videos a few times I found which gearing I could equate to each of the gears he suggested.
I should mention that I think that "coach troy's" methods (shifting a lot, making you sit and stand) are more useful for breaking the boring factor of riding on the trainer than useful for physiological adaptation. There have been other threads about this, but essentially the only reason to train at certain RPM ranges is to produce performance benefits AT THAT RANGE. Its not necessary to do long intervals at 60 rpm if you don't plan to race that way.
My ultimate suggestion is to save up and buy a powermeter. I have a PowerTap SL and its by far the best money i've ever spent for cycling equipment. If you have a power meter and you use the spinervals, then you can know exactly how hard to go. When he says we are going a 10 minutes interval, i know exactly what wattage to dial in. 🙂
i thought i was the failure!!! On my trainer (CyclOPs Mag) it is a [censored] to turn it over in big ring, much less do his 100+ stuff. I feel better already...
I have the same, cyclops fluid 2. I also bought a PT SL about 2 months ago and that has really helped me to dial in the spinerval workouts. Last winter I did spinervals and come off them feeling pretty much tanked. I do them now and adjust. I have a Friel DVD that I really hate and a CTS that I really like. I doubt that helps but its my experience.
I have the KK and use both Spinervals and the Charmichael DVDs. I happen to like the Charmichael DVDs better, but that's not really important. In either case, I ignore any reference to gears and just gear to a specific wattage/RPM with the use of the $50 power meter you can buy for the KK and, IIRC, easily adapt to the CyclOps. A heck of a lot cheaper than a PT for indoor training. Doesn't mean PT isn't a great device, it's just far from necessary for indoor training.
I have the KK and use both Spinervals and the Charmichael DVDs. In either case, I ignore any reference to gears and just gear to a specific wattage/RPM with the use of the $50 power meter
Can you give me an example ? How are you adapting the perceived effort or the gearing on the DVDs using your KK meter. I just connected the KK PM to my Trek on my Cycleops Fluid2. I did the No Slackers DVD today and didn't believe the Power numbers.
( Based on what I have read here, I suspect it is way off on Power estimates. That is despite putting in the recommended A & B constants for the Cycleops and measuring my wheel circumference (2109 mm). For example, at 21 mph it is reading 350 watts, while it seems according to some of the PT users, it is significantly overestimating by around 60 watts.)
Can you give me an example ? How are you adapting the perceived effort or the gearing on the DVDs using your KK meter. I just connected the KK PM to my Trek on my Cycleops Fluid2. I did the No Slackers DVD today and didn't believe the Power numbers.
( Based on what I have read here, I suspect it is way off on Power estimates. That is despite putting in the recommended A & B constants for the Cycleops and measuring my wheel circumference (2109 mm). For example, at 21 mph it is reading 350 watts, while it seems according to some of the PT users, it is significantly overestimating by around 60 watts.)
I posted a question on the higher perceived and measured effort (using the KK PM) on the KK vs. the road at the same mph a while back and the response I got was that the KK is set up to emulate the resistance of a 1% grade, so watts/effort should be higher at the same mph. In any case, your wattage number at 21 mph is very similar to mine on my KK. I get ~300 at 20 and ~350 at 21mph. I can also cruise along at 23mph on my road bike on the flats fairly easily for a good while, but 20 mph is about my limit on the KK, and for a shorter time.
