Regardless of paticular model, the general rule is "set the cable tension (via the adjusting barrel on the rear mech) as tight as possible without causing rattling or slow outshift* in any of the gear combinations".
This is achieved by setting the cable tension too tight (so that it clatters) and then gradually loosening, one quater turn at a time, until it is no longer too tight.
If, following this procedure, it becomes too loose (i.e. the inshift* becomes too slow or fails completely) then the whole system needs a service (clean + lube the mech, cable and possibly the shifter)
*OUTSHIFT is shifting from larger sprocket to smaller *INSHIFT is shifting from smaller sprocket to larger
My Shimano Deore gears need a bit of adjustment and I'm not too sure about the best way of tackling it. I can't find my instructions that came with the bike, and the shimano website doesn't have them either. I thought that was maybe because it's about 5 years old but they don't have anything for the new stuff either. Anyway if anybody could either point me at a copy of the instructions on the net, or give some general pointers, that would be helpful. Symptoms are just that the gears don't change down instantly (ie to bigger back cog) but take 10 secs or so to get around to it.
In news:[email hidden], Peter Bryan <[email hidden]> expounded sagaciously:
Quoted message said:
My Shimano Deore gears need a bit of adjustment and I'm not too sure about the best way of tackling it. I can't find my instructions that came with the bike, and the shimano website doesn't have them either. I thought that was maybe because it's about 5 years old but they don't have anything for the new stuff either. Anyway if anybody could either point me at a copy of the instructions on the net, or give some general pointers, that would be helpful. Symptoms are just that the gears don't change down instantly (ie to bigger back cog) but take 10 secs or so to get around to it.
thanks
Not very technical, I know, but I had lods of trouble adjusting my gears until I got a stand to put my bike on. They run differently when the bike's not upside-down! --
"Peter Bryan" <[email hidden]> wrote in news:[email hidden]:
Quoted message said:
My Shimano Deore gears need a bit of adjustment and I'm not too sure about the best way of tackling it.
I seem to remember the instructions saying something along the lines of adjusting the cable tension using the barrel adjuster on the rear mech (and if necessary by unbolting the cable and repositioning it if it is *way* out) so that the chain sits on the second highest (i.e. second smallest) gear when the lever is in the second position.
Now turn the barrel adjuster so that the chain is just rubbing and clicking on the third highest gear, as if it was just about to change. Now turn the barrel adjuster back about a quarter turn, or however much is needed to *just* stop the rubbing. That should be you sorted.
I'm not sure whether these were Shimano's own instructions or some that I've read elsewhere, but this is the method I use and it is very quick and easy. I've often used it at the start of rides on friends' bikes and it takes about 30 seconds if they're not too far out.
In news:[email hidden], Peter Bryan <[email hidden]> expounded sagaciously:
Quoted message said:
My Shimano Deore gears need a bit of adjustment and I'm not too sure about the best way of tackling it. I can't find my instructions that came with the bike, and the shimano website doesn't have them either. I thought that was maybe because it's about 5 years old but they don't have anything for the new stuff either. Anyway if anybody could either point me at a copy of the instructions on the net, or give some general pointers, that would be helpful. Symptoms are just that the gears don't change down instantly (ie to bigger back cog) but take 10 secs or so to get around to it.
thanks
Not very technical, I know, but I had lods of trouble adjusting my gears until I got a stand to put my bike on. They run differently when the bike's not upside-down! --
Martin Bulmer
And, for that matter, if the rear axle is clamped in a turbo trainer....
I'm not sure whether these were Shimano's own instructions or some that I've read elsewhere, but this is the method I use and it is very quick and easy.
I'm pretty sure those were the instructions which came with my Dawes hybrid when I bought it new, years ago - though IIRC they told me to put the chain on the middle chainring as well.
-- Mark, UK. We hope to hear him swear, we love to hear him squeak, We like to see him biting fingers in his horny beak.
Mark Mcn <[email hidden]> wrote in news:[email hidden]:
Quoted message said:
I'm pretty sure those were the instructions which came with my Dawes hybrid when I bought it new, years ago - though IIRC they told me to put the chain on the middle chainring as well.
That's it! I knew I was missing something. It would probably work to some extent on the other rings, but the middle one would definitely give the best result.
I just stick with Sheldon's advice, it hasn't steered me wrong so far.
Shimano gears have a nasty habit of needing lots of love and attention. I don't know if Campag gears are as needy, but it would not surprise me at all.
Shimano gears have a nasty habit of needing lots of love and attention. I don't know if Campag gears are as needy, but it would not surprise me at all.
Shimano make quite a wide range of stuff in terms of quality: I don't think it's fair to lump everything they build into the same category as the standards of engineering differ considerably.
Pete. -- Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/
