Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Adjusting 6600 FD to avoid dropping chain

Started by Email address hidden · · Last activity · 22 posts · 918 views

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
Cycling Equipment
Published
24 April 2006
Last activity
25 April 2006
Original author
Email address hidden
Posts
22
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
918
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–20 of 22
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. Hi All,

    When I am in my 53-25 cross-chained too the max, and I shift to the 39,
    the chain invariably drops. The way it is adjusted now, the inner cage
    is only about 1mm from the chain when in the 39-25. So I think it may
    be not correctly mounted vis-a-vis rotation on the seat-tube. How
    should a 6600 shaped cage be aligned with the chainrings?

    Thanks!

    Joseph

    PS: I'm not interested in hearing about how I shouldn't be in my
    53-25...

  2. <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi All,

    When I am in my 53-25 cross-chained too the max, and I shift to the 39,
    the chain invariably drops. The way it is adjusted now, the inner cage
    is only about 1mm from the chain when in the 39-25. So I think it may
    be not correctly mounted vis-a-vis rotation on the seat-tube. How
    should a 6600 shaped cage be aligned with the chainrings?

    Thanks!

    Joseph

    PS: I'm not interested in hearing about how I shouldn't be in my
    53-25...

    Well, if you're not interested in what anybody who knows what they're
    talking about will tell you, then I recommend a 3rd eye chain watcher. It
    clamps to the seat tube and keeps the chain from falling off.

  3. Hank Wirtz said:

    <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi All,

    When I am in my 53-25 cross-chained too the max, and I shift to the 39,
    the chain invariably drops. The way it is adjusted now, the inner cage
    is only about 1mm from the chain when in the 39-25. So I think it may
    be not correctly mounted vis-a-vis rotation on the seat-tube. How
    should a 6600 shaped cage be aligned with the chainrings?

    Thanks!

    Joseph

    PS: I'm not interested in hearing about how I shouldn't be in my
    53-25...

    Well, if you're not interested in what anybody who knows what they're
    talking about will tell you, then I recommend a 3rd eye chain watcher. It
    clamps to the seat tube and keeps the chain from falling off.

    I've been meaning to order one of those anyway, but I figure that
    should only be there for emergencies like changing rings while hitting
    a big pothole, or something. Not as a general fix for avoiding an
    assured chain drop.

    I'm usually not in the 53-25, I just go by feel, and sometimes while
    looking for lower gears I end up there. Then I try one more downshift,
    realize I've run out of cogs, but I'm still in the big ring and have
    run out of time, so I need the 39 quick. not a good time to drop the
    chain!

    Joseph

  4. Quoted message said:

    Hi All,

    When I am in my 53-25 cross-chained too the max, and I shift to the 39,
    the chain invariably drops. The way it is adjusted now, the inner cage
    is only about 1mm from the chain when in the 39-25. So I think it may
    be not correctly mounted vis-a-vis rotation on the seat-tube. How
    should a 6600 shaped cage be aligned with the chainrings?

    Thanks!

    Joseph

    PS: I'm not interested in hearing about how I shouldn't be in my
    53-25...

    Here's the Shimano service instructions (pdf) - it says 0.0 - 0.5mm
    clearance so it may be that simple of a fix. Caution - there is
    anti-crosschaining verbage in there as well.

    http://tinyurl.com/l3z62

  5. <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I've been meaning to order one of those anyway, but I figure that
    should only be there for emergencies like changing rings while hitting
    a big pothole, or something. Not as a general fix for avoiding an
    assured chain drop.

    Well, if we're dealing in "should," then you shouldn't be cross-chaining.

    The 3rd eye can't tell why the chain's falling, it just deflects it back
    onto the ring. Your motivation in having it doesn't matter.

  6. Quoted message said:
    Hank Wirtz said:

    <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi All,

    When I am in my 53-25 cross-chained too the max, and I shift to the 39,
    the chain invariably drops. The way it is adjusted now, the inner cage
    is only about 1mm from the chain when in the 39-25. So I think it may
    be not correctly mounted vis-a-vis rotation on the seat-tube. How
    should a 6600 shaped cage be aligned with the chainrings?

    Thanks!

    Joseph

    PS: I'm not interested in hearing about how I shouldn't be in my
    53-25...

    Well, if you're not interested in what anybody who knows what they're
    talking about will tell you, then I recommend a 3rd eye chain watcher. It
    clamps to the seat tube and keeps the chain from falling off.

    I've been meaning to order one of those anyway, but I figure that
    should only be there for emergencies like changing rings while hitting
    a big pothole, or something. Not as a general fix for avoiding an
    assured chain drop.

    I'm usually not in the 53-25, I just go by feel, and sometimes while
    looking for lower gears I end up there. Then I try one more downshift,
    realize I've run out of cogs, but I'm still in the big ring and have
    run out of time, so I need the 39 quick. not a good time to drop the
    chain!

    Joseph

    I don't think any front derailleur adjustment will work. Due to the
    extreme angle of the chain when you go to the lower chainring, its more
    likely to drop. Its trying to fall onto the inner chainring with the
    chain skewed across the chainring. Less surface area meeting between
    the chain and ring. Unlike if you were in the middle of the cogset,
    the chian and ring are pretty much perfectly aligned in a straight line
    so when the chain falls down to the inner ring, it has about 100% of
    its surface area meeting up with 100% of the ring's surface area. When
    shifting to the inner ring, the front derailleur throws the chain
    inwards, combined with the chain already severely angled inwards when
    using the big cog, its going to go too far inward more often.

  7. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Hank Wirtz said:

    <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...
    > Hi All,
    >
    > When I am in my 53-25 cross-chained too the max, and I shift to the 39,
    > the chain invariably drops. The way it is adjusted now, the inner cage
    > is only about 1mm from the chain when in the 39-25. So I think it may
    > be not correctly mounted vis-a-vis rotation on the seat-tube. How
    > should a 6600 shaped cage be aligned with the chainrings?
    >
    > Thanks!
    >
    > Joseph
    >
    > PS: I'm not interested in hearing about how I shouldn't be in my
    > 53-25...
    >

    Well, if you're not interested in what anybody who knows what they're
    talking about will tell you, then I recommend a 3rd eye chain watcher. It
    clamps to the seat tube and keeps the chain from falling off.

    I've been meaning to order one of those anyway, but I figure that
    should only be there for emergencies like changing rings while hitting
    a big pothole, or something. Not as a general fix for avoiding an
    assured chain drop.

    I'm usually not in the 53-25, I just go by feel, and sometimes while
    looking for lower gears I end up there. Then I try one more downshift,
    realize I've run out of cogs, but I'm still in the big ring and have
    run out of time, so I need the 39 quick. not a good time to drop the
    chain!

    Joseph

    I don't think any front derailleur adjustment will work. Due to the
    extreme angle of the chain when you go to the lower chainring, its more
    likely to drop. Its trying to fall onto the inner chainring with the
    chain skewed across the chainring. Less surface area meeting between
    the chain and ring. Unlike if you were in the middle of the cogset,
    the chian and ring are pretty much perfectly aligned in a straight line
    so when the chain falls down to the inner ring, it has about 100% of
    its surface area meeting up with 100% of the ring's surface area. When
    shifting to the inner ring, the front derailleur throws the chain
    inwards, combined with the chain already severely angled inwards when
    using the big cog, its going to go too far inward more often.

    Except it didn't used to fall off, until I remounted the FD after I had
    borrowed if for a little while...

    Joseph

  8. Hank Wirtz said:

    <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I've been meaning to order one of those anyway, but I figure that
    should only be there for emergencies like changing rings while hitting
    a big pothole, or something. Not as a general fix for avoiding an
    assured chain drop.

    Well, if we're dealing in "should," then you shouldn't be cross-chaining.

    Good point! ;-)

    Quoted message said:


    The 3rd eye can't tell why the chain's falling, it just deflects it back
    onto the ring. Your motivation in having it doesn't matter.

    I'm worried that using one as a general kludge for keeping a
    potentially not-correctly mounted drivetrain functional might invite
    other problems. Like the chain slipping when it would otherwise have
    dropped, etc.

    Joseph

  9. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Hank Wirtz wrote:
    > <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    > news:[email hidden]...
    > > Hi All,
    > >
    > > When I am in my 53-25 cross-chained too the max, and I shift to the 39,
    > > the chain invariably drops. The way it is adjusted now, the inner cage
    > > is only about 1mm from the chain when in the 39-25. So I think it may
    > > be not correctly mounted vis-a-vis rotation on the seat-tube. How
    > > should a 6600 shaped cage be aligned with the chainrings?
    > >
    > > Thanks!
    > >
    > > Joseph
    > >
    > > PS: I'm not interested in hearing about how I shouldn't be in my
    > > 53-25...
    > >
    >
    > Well, if you're not interested in what anybody who knows what they're
    > talking about will tell you, then I recommend a 3rd eye chain watcher. It
    > clamps to the seat tube and keeps the chain from falling off.

    I've been meaning to order one of those anyway, but I figure that
    should only be there for emergencies like changing rings while hitting
    a big pothole, or something. Not as a general fix for avoiding an
    assured chain drop.

    I'm usually not in the 53-25, I just go by feel, and sometimes while
    looking for lower gears I end up there. Then I try one more downshift,
    realize I've run out of cogs, but I'm still in the big ring and have
    run out of time, so I need the 39 quick. not a good time to drop the
    chain!

    Joseph

    I don't think any front derailleur adjustment will work. Due to the
    extreme angle of the chain when you go to the lower chainring, its more
    likely to drop. Its trying to fall onto the inner chainring with the
    chain skewed across the chainring. Less surface area meeting between
    the chain and ring. Unlike if you were in the middle of the cogset,
    the chian and ring are pretty much perfectly aligned in a straight line
    so when the chain falls down to the inner ring, it has about 100% of
    its surface area meeting up with 100% of the ring's surface area. When
    shifting to the inner ring, the front derailleur throws the chain
    inwards, combined with the chain already severely angled inwards when
    using the big cog, its going to go too far inward more often.

    Except it didn't used to fall off, until I remounted the FD after I had
    borrowed if for a little while...

    Have you checked the inner limit screw setting (i.e., when in the 39-25
    position)?

  10. Diablo Scott said:
    Quoted message said:

    Hi All,

    When I am in my 53-25 cross-chained too the max, and I shift to the 39,
    the chain invariably drops. The way it is adjusted now, the inner cage
    is only about 1mm from the chain when in the 39-25. So I think it may
    be not correctly mounted vis-a-vis rotation on the seat-tube. How
    should a 6600 shaped cage be aligned with the chainrings?

    Thanks!

    Joseph

    PS: I'm not interested in hearing about how I shouldn't be in my
    53-25...

    Here's the Shimano service instructions (pdf) - it says 0.0 - 0.5mm
    clearance so it may be that simple of a fix. Caution - there is
    anti-crosschaining verbage in there as well.

    http://tinyurl.com/l3z62

    Just get the chain widget. It works well, weighs almost nothing, and
    keeps things running smoothly. Well, adjust the derailer as well, but
    really, don't sweat having to use the widget, as it just plain works
    and doesn't do any harm.

  11. Ozark Bicycle said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    [email hidden] wrote:
    > Hank Wirtz wrote:
    > > <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    > > news:[email hidden]...
    > > > Hi All,
    > > >
    > > > When I am in my 53-25 cross-chained too the max, and I shift to the 39,
    > > > the chain invariably drops. The way it is adjusted now, the inner cage
    > > > is only about 1mm from the chain when in the 39-25. So I think it may
    > > > be not correctly mounted vis-a-vis rotation on the seat-tube. How
    > > > should a 6600 shaped cage be aligned with the chainrings?
    > > >
    > > > Thanks!
    > > >
    > > > Joseph
    > > >
    > > > PS: I'm not interested in hearing about how I shouldn't be in my
    > > > 53-25...
    > > >
    > >
    > > Well, if you're not interested in what anybody who knows what they're
    > > talking about will tell you, then I recommend a 3rd eye chain watcher. It
    > > clamps to the seat tube and keeps the chain from falling off.
    >
    > I've been meaning to order one of those anyway, but I figure that
    > should only be there for emergencies like changing rings while hitting
    > a big pothole, or something. Not as a general fix for avoiding an
    > assured chain drop.
    >
    > I'm usually not in the 53-25, I just go by feel, and sometimes while
    > looking for lower gears I end up there. Then I try one more downshift,
    > realize I've run out of cogs, but I'm still in the big ring and have
    > run out of time, so I need the 39 quick. not a good time to drop the
    > chain!
    >
    > Joseph

    I don't think any front derailleur adjustment will work. Due to the
    extreme angle of the chain when you go to the lower chainring, its more
    likely to drop. Its trying to fall onto the inner chainring with the
    chain skewed across the chainring. Less surface area meeting between
    the chain and ring. Unlike if you were in the middle of the cogset,
    the chian and ring are pretty much perfectly aligned in a straight line
    so when the chain falls down to the inner ring, it has about 100% of
    its surface area meeting up with 100% of the ring's surface area. When
    shifting to the inner ring, the front derailleur throws the chain
    inwards, combined with the chain already severely angled inwards when
    using the big cog, its going to go too far inward more often.

    Except it didn't used to fall off, until I remounted the FD after I had
    borrowed if for a little while...

    Have you checked the inner limit screw setting (i.e., when in the 39-25
    position)?

    Yes, it's set such that there is about 1mm clearance to the chain.
    According to another post, this clearance should be 0.0-0.5mm. But less
    than 1mm and it scrapes when I mash.

    Joseph

  12. On 24 Apr 2006 11:42:34 -0700, [email hidden]
    wrote:

    [snip]

    Quoted message said:

    Except it didn't used to fall off, until I remounted the FD after I had
    borrowed if for a little while...

    Joseph

    Dear Joseph,

    It could be that your front derailleur is rotated at a
    slightly different angle around the seat tube or that it's
    mounted a little higher or lower.

    But it could just be that your gear teeth and chain are a
    little more worn and are past the point at which they can
    handle the extreme shift that you have in mind.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  13. Quoted message said:
    Ozark Bicycle said:
    Quoted message said:

    [email hidden] wrote:
    > [email hidden] wrote:
    > > Hank Wirtz wrote:
    > > > <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    > > > news:[email hidden]...
    > > > > Hi All,
    > > > >
    > > > > When I am in my 53-25 cross-chained too the max, and I shift to the 39,
    > > > > the chain invariably drops. The way it is adjusted now, the inner cage
    > > > > is only about 1mm from the chain when in the 39-25. So I think it may
    > > > > be not correctly mounted vis-a-vis rotation on the seat-tube. How
    > > > > should a 6600 shaped cage be aligned with the chainrings?
    > > > >
    > > > > Thanks!
    > > > >
    > > > > Joseph
    > > > >
    > > > > PS: I'm not interested in hearing about how I shouldn't be in my
    > > > > 53-25...
    > > > >
    > > >
    > > > Well, if you're not interested in what anybody who knows what they're
    > > > talking about will tell you, then I recommend a 3rd eye chain watcher. It
    > > > clamps to the seat tube and keeps the chain from falling off.
    > >
    > > I've been meaning to order one of those anyway, but I figure that
    > > should only be there for emergencies like changing rings while hitting
    > > a big pothole, or something. Not as a general fix for avoiding an
    > > assured chain drop.
    > >
    > > I'm usually not in the 53-25, I just go by feel, and sometimes while
    > > looking for lower gears I end up there. Then I try one more downshift,
    > > realize I've run out of cogs, but I'm still in the big ring and have
    > > run out of time, so I need the 39 quick. not a good time to drop the
    > > chain!
    > >
    > > Joseph
    >
    > I don't think any front derailleur adjustment will work. Due to the
    > extreme angle of the chain when you go to the lower chainring, its more
    > likely to drop. Its trying to fall onto the inner chainring with the
    > chain skewed across the chainring. Less surface area meeting between
    > the chain and ring. Unlike if you were in the middle of the cogset,
    > the chian and ring are pretty much perfectly aligned in a straight line
    > so when the chain falls down to the inner ring, it has about 100% of
    > its surface area meeting up with 100% of the ring's surface area. When
    > shifting to the inner ring, the front derailleur throws the chain
    > inwards, combined with the chain already severely angled inwards when
    > using the big cog, its going to go too far inward more often.

    Except it didn't used to fall off, until I remounted the FD after I had
    borrowed if for a little while...

    Have you checked the inner limit screw setting (i.e., when in the 39-25
    position)?

    Yes, it's set such that there is about 1mm clearance to the chain.
    According to another post, this clearance should be 0.0-0.5mm. But less
    than 1mm and it scrapes when I mash.

    That other post, from Diablo Scott, gives you a link to the Shimano
    Tech site, the veritable "horse's mouth". Have you followed those
    instructions *precisely*, in all regards?

  14. On Mon, 24 Apr 2006 11:01:23 -0700, "Hank Wirtz" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Well, if you're not interested in what anybody who knows what they're
    talking about will tell you, then I recommend a 3rd eye chain watcher. It
    clamps to the seat tube and keeps the chain from falling off.

    The 3rd Eye is a piece of plastic to guard against the chain falling
    inside the little ring, uses a hose clamp to attach to the seat tube,
    so it's one size fits all, and retails for around $10.

    The Deda Dog Fang looks the same as the 3rd Eye, but instead of the
    hose clamp, comes in 3 sizes to fit standard seat tube diameters, and
    retails for around $11.

    For around $9.00, the N-Gear uses a metal part to prevent the chain
    from falling, and also comes in 3 sizes.

    The winner, however, is the $4.00 generic which is exactly the same as
    the Deda, but $7.00 cheaper (because you don't pay for the logo?).

    http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=833043778591&c=Components

  15. Doug Taylor said:

    On Mon, 24 Apr 2006 11:01:23 -0700, "Hank Wirtz" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Well, if you're not interested in what anybody who knows what they're
    talking about will tell you, then I recommend a 3rd eye chain watcher. It
    clamps to the seat tube and keeps the chain from falling off.

    The 3rd Eye is a piece of plastic to guard against the chain falling
    inside the little ring, uses a hose clamp to attach to the seat tube,
    so it's one size fits all, and retails for around $10.

    The Deda Dog Fang looks the same as the 3rd Eye, but instead of the
    hose clamp, comes in 3 sizes to fit standard seat tube diameters, and
    retails for around $11.

    For around $9.00, the N-Gear uses a metal part to prevent the chain
    from falling, and also comes in 3 sizes.

    The winner, however, is the $4.00 generic which is exactly the same as
    the Deda, but $7.00 cheaper (because you don't pay for the logo?).

    http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=833043778591&c=Components

    I want one of those generic 31.8mm's or a Deda! Problem is no
    international shipping. I have no local sources for any of these, and
    by the time I'm done finding a place it's not so cheap anymore.

    Anyone have a paypal account I can send a few bucks to and they can pop
    one in an envelope for me?

    Joseph

  16. Dans le message de
    news:[email hidden],
    [email hidden] <[email hidden]> a réfléchi, et
    puis a déclaré :

    Quoted message said:

    Hi All,

    When I am in my 53-25 cross-chained too the max, and I shift to the
    39, the chain invariably drops. The way it is adjusted now, the inner
    cage is only about 1mm from the chain when in the 39-25. So I think
    it may be not correctly mounted vis-a-vis rotation on the seat-tube.
    How should a 6600 shaped cage be aligned with the chainrings?

    Thanks!

    Joseph

    PS: I'm not interested in hearing about how I shouldn't be in my
    53-25...

    As of my reading twelve answers to a question that needed none.
    Patient : "Doctor, when I do that, it hurts me."
    Doctor : "Then stop doing that."

    From a guy who is engrossed in the LT details of his own life, managing the
    little detail of handling your transmission should not be a bear. Next Q.

  17. Derailleur outer cage metal face plate should be 2 mm above the teeth on the
    big chain ring and parallel to the chain when the chain is in a straight
    line (usually on the small chain ring and the 4th cog). The derailleur
    outer cage metal face plate should also approximate the curve of the big
    chain ring as it falls off to the rear of the bike.

    I had a similar problem with a newly installed front derailleur. It came
    off both on the up and down shift in more extreme positions because: 1) It
    was about 4 mm above the teeth on the big chain ring, and 2) it wasn't
    exactly parallel to the chain when the chain is in a straight line. Also
    sounds like you might try moving the inner stop out further away from the
    frame. I use the cross chaining "noise" to tell me I am cross chaining.
    This prompts me to switch gears to a non-crossed chain position.

    <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi All,

    When I am in my 53-25 cross-chained too the max, and I shift to the 39,
    the chain invariably drops. The way it is adjusted now, the inner cage
    is only about 1mm from the chain when in the 39-25. So I think it may
    be not correctly mounted vis-a-vis rotation on the seat-tube. How
    should a 6600 shaped cage be aligned with the chainrings?

    Thanks!

    Joseph

    PS: I'm not interested in hearing about how I shouldn't be in my
    53-25...

  18. Quoted message said:

    Hi All,

    When I am in my 53-25 cross-chained too the max, and I shift to the 39,
    the chain invariably drops.

    No surprise there.

    The way it is adjusted now, the inner cage

    Quoted message said:

    is only about 1mm from the chain when in the 39-25.

    Should be closer-shimano says 0.0 to 0.5mm...

    So I think it may

    Quoted message said:

    be not correctly mounted vis-a-vis rotation on the seat-tube. How
    should a 6600 shaped cage be aligned with the chainrings?

    The outside portion of the cage should be aligned with the chain when
    in big ring, small cog combo....but just put ona chain watcher and not
    worry about it-JumpStop

    Quoted message said:


    Thanks!

    Joseph

    PS: I'm not interested in hearing about how I shouldn't be in my
    53-25...

  19. Ozark Bicycle said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    [email hidden] wrote:
    > Hank Wirtz wrote:
    > > <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    > > news:[email hidden]...
    > > > Hi All,
    > > >
    > > > When I am in my 53-25 cross-chained too the max, and I shift to the 39,
    > > > the chain invariably drops. The way it is adjusted now, the inner cage
    > > > is only about 1mm from the chain when in the 39-25. So I think it may
    > > > be not correctly mounted vis-a-vis rotation on the seat-tube. How
    > > > should a 6600 shaped cage be aligned with the chainrings?
    > > >
    > > > Thanks!
    > > >
    > > > Joseph
    > > >
    > > > PS: I'm not interested in hearing about how I shouldn't be in my
    > > > 53-25...
    > > >
    > >
    > > Well, if you're not interested in what anybody who knows what they're
    > > talking about will tell you, then I recommend a 3rd eye chain watcher. It
    > > clamps to the seat tube and keeps the chain from falling off.
    >
    > I've been meaning to order one of those anyway, but I figure that
    > should only be there for emergencies like changing rings while hitting
    > a big pothole, or something. Not as a general fix for avoiding an
    > assured chain drop.
    >
    > I'm usually not in the 53-25, I just go by feel, and sometimes while
    > looking for lower gears I end up there. Then I try one more downshift,
    > realize I've run out of cogs, but I'm still in the big ring and have
    > run out of time, so I need the 39 quick. not a good time to drop the
    > chain!
    >
    > Joseph

    I don't think any front derailleur adjustment will work. Due to the
    extreme angle of the chain when you go to the lower chainring, its more
    likely to drop. Its trying to fall onto the inner chainring with the
    chain skewed across the chainring. Less surface area meeting between
    the chain and ring. Unlike if you were in the middle of the cogset,
    the chian and ring are pretty much perfectly aligned in a straight line
    so when the chain falls down to the inner ring, it has about 100% of
    its surface area meeting up with 100% of the ring's surface area. When
    shifting to the inner ring, the front derailleur throws the chain
    inwards, combined with the chain already severely angled inwards when
    using the big cog, its going to go too far inward more often.

    Except it didn't used to fall off, until I remounted the FD after I had
    borrowed if for a little while...

    Have you checked the inner limit screw setting (i.e., when in the 39-25
    position)?

    "The way it is adjusted now, the inner cage

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > > > is only about 1mm from the chain when in the 39-25.

  20. KnowWhen2HoldemKnowWhen2Foldem said:

    Derailleur outer cage metal face plate should be 2 mm above the teeth on the
    big chain ring and parallel to the chain when the chain is in a straight
    line (usually on the small chain ring and the 4th cog). The derailleur
    outer cage metal face plate should also approximate the curve of the big
    chain ring as it falls off to the rear of the bike.

    Not exactly...2mm is too high and if aligned on the forth cog, it will
    be slow to shift to the small ring.

    Quoted message said:


    I had a similar problem with a newly installed front derailleur. It came
    off both on the up and down shift in more extreme positions because: 1) It
    was about 4 mm above the teeth on the big chain ring, and 2) it wasn't
    exactly parallel to the chain when the chain is in a straight line. Also
    sounds like you might try moving the inner stop out further away from the
    frame. I use the cross chaining "noise" to tell me I am cross chaining.
    This prompts me to switch gears to a non-crossed chain position.

    <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi All,

    When I am in my 53-25 cross-chained too the max, and I shift to the 39,
    the chain invariably drops. The way it is adjusted now, the inner cage
    is only about 1mm from the chain when in the 39-25. So I think it may
    be not correctly mounted vis-a-vis rotation on the seat-tube. How
    should a 6600 shaped cage be aligned with the chainrings?

    Thanks!

    Joseph

    PS: I'm not interested in hearing about how I shouldn't be in my
    53-25...

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.