Adjuster barrel seized and snapped

John McDowall said:

Any idea how I can get it out? I tried drilling, but it's
not possible to get the drill parallel with the downtube
(due to the drill's size).

:-\

John

you'll need a longer drill, which are available but not at
the corner hardware store.
--
---
Marten Gerritsen

INFOapestaartjeM-GINEERINGpuntNL www.m-gineering.nl

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by John McDowall
Hi,

I was changing the cables on my bike, and noticed that one
of the adjuster barrels on the downtube had seized.

Anyway, after applying some penetrating oil I tried to
unscrew the unit from the frame but just wound up snapping
it in two. See pics below

jmcd.nudohOpen ↗

Any idea how I can get it out? I tried drilling, but it's
not possible to get the drill parallel with the downtube
(due to the drill's size).

:-\

John

Dear John,

Possibly an ez-out? If you're not familiar with them,
they're shaped like extremely aggressive drill bits with
a reverse spiral, but are much less brittle.

You drill a hole in the stubborn stump, force the end
in, and twist the square butt of the ez-outwith a
wrench.

You already have the hole in the broken piece,
so some padding against the frame tube and a
bit of tapping with a soft-faced hammer, careful
wrenching, and profanity might ease the stump
out.

They're also know as screw extractors:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=40349

Because your stump can come out either way,
you could even try fitting a small wood or metal
screw into the stump, but they tend to break off
more easily than real ez-outs and because they
rarely fit in straight, they tend to ruin the threads.

Good luck,

Carl Fogel

John McDowall said:

I was changing the cables on my bike, and noticed that one
of the adjuster barrels on the downtube had seized.
Anyway, after applying some penetrating oil I tried to
unscrew the unit from the frame but just wound up snapping
it in two. See pics below jmcd.nudohOpen ↗ Any idea how
I can get it out? I tried drilling, but it's not possible
to get the drill parallel with the downtube (due to the
drill's size).

An electrician's drill bit - twelve inches long and they
flex a bit for that job

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by A Muzi

BJohn McDowall said:

I was changing the cables on my bike, and noticed that one
of the adjuster barrels on the downtube had seized.
Anyway, after applying some penetrating oil I tried to
unscrew the unit from the frame but just wound up snapping
it in two. See pics below jmcd.nudohOpen ↗ Any idea how
I can get it out? I tried drilling, but it's not possible
to get the drill parallel with the downtube (due to the
drill's size).

An electrician's drill bit - twelve inches long and they
flex a bit for that job

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971 [/B]

Dear Andrew,

I call your 12-inch slightly flexible drill bit and raise:

http://www.wmballen.com/ProductDetail.cfm?product_id=1356

or

http://tinyurl.com/3ds7u

Carl Fogel

you could try an easy-out
jaw.iinet.net.aueasyout.htmlOpen ↗ but go
real easy stuart

stu said:

you could try an easy-out
jaw.iinet.net.aueasyout.htmlOpen ↗ but go
real easy stuart

Difficult to get a good purchase in that kind of brazed-
on fitting.

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971

Quoted message said:

Difficult to get a good purchase in that kind of brazed-on
fitting.

you're not wrong there, it would be a pita but I just had an
idea a "self taping screw" could be uesd as an easy-out in
the case because it could be screwed in from either end and
then screwed right through if you can find one the right
size it could be worth a try

On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 19:24:10 +0100, John McDowall <jmcd@nothanks> may

have said:

Hi,

I was changing the cables on my bike, and noticed that one
of the adjuster barrels on the downtube had seized.

Anyway, after applying some penetrating oil I tried to
unscrew the unit from the frame but just wound up snapping
it in two. See pics below

jmcd.nudohOpen ↗

Any idea how I can get it out? I tried drilling, but it's
not possible to get the drill parallel with the downtube
(due to the drill's size).

I'll weigh in on the side of the recommendation to get a
longer drill bit to counterbore with, but I smell a
complication. Is that frame aluminum? If so, there's
unfortunately a good chance that the broken piece is not
going to come out without mauling the threads in the boss.
Fortunately, it's a low-stress item, so there doesn't need
to be a full set of threads present in order for it to still
function, but be prepared to need to have a helicoil
installed just in case.

Alternately, if getting the stub out proves intractable, an
inline adjuster for the cable, combined with a judicious
counterbore of the boss to turn it into a ferrule, might
provide an alternate solution should there not be enough
room for a helicoil.

This might be a good time to turn the job over to a talented
lbs. Extracting broken things from small holes is something
of an art; I've done lots of them over the years, but I do
not relish the task.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Werehatrack said:

This might be a good time to turn the job over to a
talented lbs. Extracting broken things from small holes is
something of an art; I've done lots of them over the
years, but I do not relish the task.

A good LBS with an experianced mechanic will be able to have
a go at this. Be prepared to pay a fair amount, if it takes
an hour of faffing around you'll have to pay for an hour. An
inexperiance mechanic may totally mess things up.

--
Andy Morris

AndyAtJinkasDotFreeserve.Co.UK

Love this:
Put an end to Outlook Express's messy quotes
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