I recently bought a Felt F70, and can't get comfortable on the bike. I'm 6' 250 lbs, and am trying to get in shape. Will an adjustable stem help me get comfortable on the bike? The seat is the right height , and the frame size is ok, I just feel like I'm reaching way to far for the bars. This is my 1st road bike, so I know there is a learning curve, but any help on this, will be appreciated.
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Adjustable Road Bike Stems?
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- 14 April 2004
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I am also a big guy at 5'11" and 225lbs. It took me a while to get used to my road bike. An adjustable stem could be used to get you in a more upright riding pos. but I'd advise you to stick with what you have on the bike right now. As soon as the riding "bug" gets a hold of you, you'll want a better bike and/or better parts.
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I am having same problem too. However, I now have a much bigger problem. It seems that after 100+ miles put on the bike, I now have tennis elbow. Don't ask me how this happens riding. I have a Road bike that fits me well with exception to my reach. Just riding down the block, I can keep in mind to keep good riding posture (to include my elbows bent); however, once fatigue sets in, I seem like I am reaching too far, and seem to lock out my arms. I am only riding approx. 8 miles at a time, and from what I hear from other cyclists, this is a short distance. I am looking into getting an adjustable stem to attempt to get a better or more relaxed position on the bike. I am 5' 11", with long legs for my height. I have moved the seat up some, but not to disrupt the plumb of my knee with the axle of my foot peddles. I have a 100mm nonadjustable stem now at a 7+/- degree. I am not sure at to the length of the stem I would need. I understand that as the stem rises the length will decrease. Does anyone have a recommendation to the length I should get? I am thinking short (80mm) or would that be too short?
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rather than getting an adjustable, i would go for a shorter version of the same degree rise, visit your LBS they you maybe able to try a few different ones ( im sure they will have spares in the back) .i had the same problem with mine, the bike came with a 110ml stem, which felt ok on the drops, but i felt i was a bit overstretched on the hoods. i replaced it with a 90ml one of the same degree rise and everything feels great.next time you are on your bike , move your hands on the bars to where you think they should be and estimate the difference 20ml was right for me
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You should be able to go to the shop and try some different stems on a trainer or something and then leave with the one which is the best. An adjustable stem does not really adjust length, it adjusts rise which, from your description is NOT what you are after.
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Yup, try something new might be good choice.
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Quoted post said:
Originally Posted by hesty24 [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]
I am having same problem too. However, I now have a much bigger problem. It seems that after 100+ miles put on the bike, I now have tennis elbow. . . . I am thinking short (80mm) or would that be too short?
Your symptoms indicate that you're putting too much weight on your arms. My advice is to not buy a stem until you've had a fitter or a coach check you out. Short of that, here's my fitting advice that's never let me down and correlates with what many professional fitters are doing.
First, too much weight on the arms indicates that your center of gravity is too far forward, causing you to "do push-ups" to keep your chin above the handlebar. Move the saddle back until you feel as though your weight is over your feet while maintaining your forward back angle. You should be able to maintain this position for short periods, without hand support, using just your back muscles. Moving the saddle back increases stretch to the cranks, so after you've done this lower it a bit, too.
Next, look at your arm position with your hands over the brake hoods, where you will spend most of your time, and the elbows slightly bent downward (not outward). The humerus (upper arm) should form an angle to your back of 90 degrees or slightly more.
This angle just seems to allow the back the right amount of back stretch while not straining the arms and shoulders. If I'm cramped from not enough reach, the first place I feel it is in my lower back. From the right position you should be able to pull yourself out of the saddle for sprints and hills without too much upper body effort.
By the way Felt F-series frames are rather low and stretchy--long, non-sloping top tubes with short head tubes. Some riders, especially beginners and those with flexibility issues, might want to use riser stems with these bikes.
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Thanks to all who replied,
I have a 2010 Trek 2.1. I moved the seat up a little because I have noticed that my butt keeps creeping forward on the saddle and my ishium (butt bone) is no longer where it needs to be, and the pains quickly remind me. Oldbobcat, your saying go the opposite direction and move the seat more back (away from the handlebars), then lower the seat? I will give that a try. I really thank you for letting me know about my elbow position!!!!!!! I think that I do flare them outwards instead of down. That might be my mistake. I have been going to the gym (while laying off the bike) and really hitting my lower back and abs. I hear that riding is a lot of core work, but I don't feel that when I am riding. I just feel the work in my chicken legs. Also, after a ride, my upper traps and posterior neck feel somewhat tired secondary to looking up. Is that normal after 8 miles, or is something else going wrong. The guy that sold me the bike (who is a certified fitter) at a LBS, said everything looked good and that a professional fit later would be encouraged if I wanted to get the most performace. I am not really looking for all that, I just want to commute quickly and without injury. What is ya'lls take on this? Also, I got on my bike and measured where I believe that I would be comforable on the hoods and that is almost 3cm's, which would put me with a 70cm stem if I did decide to go that route. << Is that too short or? Thanks again
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I had that same problem and I still do; at times. Too much weight on your arms, (compounded by too much work at my computer and of course... tennis). Move the saddle back so more weight is on your butt. Do you have a stationary trainer? that was the only way I fixed my problem. Set the bike on a trainer and pedal for 10-15 minutes and adjust the saddle back and ride again for another 10 minutes until you feel you can lean forward but your weigh is supported by your abs and legs/butt; even if you knee is behind the pedal spindle. The knee over pedal rule is just a guideline to start; you need to find what works for you. You can do this without a trainer; it just takes longer...
Once you have settled on a saddle position (it will probably be much farther back that what you currently have it), then figure what length stem you need. The elbow issue is a pesky one. You need to add tennis elbow Phys. therapy to your routine: strengthening, stretching, massage and flexibility. Take some anti-inflammatory meds. When riding relax your grip on the bars, change hand positions often, flex your arms often and concentrate on putting your weight on your legs and butt. Keep your abs strong so very little weight is transfered to your elbows. Also, upper body weight training has helped me a lot. -
Good advice about using a trainer, rparedes. I got most of my fit issues sorted out before the advent of trainers, so I tend to overlook the newer tools at hand. And you're right about the knee-over-pedal-spindle (KOPS) rule--it should be used a guideline for just getting the butt in the right region.
Regarding neck pain, mine always came in conjunction with shoulder pain, which came from carrying too much weight on my arms. Once I got the weight transferred to my butt, it really didn't matter how low I got my torso, as long as I could support it with my core. Maybe this is because I was a swimmer in my youth and I got used to looking straight ahead from a horizontal body position. Sometimes stretching my upper body over the toptube of my bike feels just like the recovery phase of my butterfly stroke, back in the day. Learn to ride with a flat back--that is, bend from the hips and stretch along the spine as if you're trying to make yourself tall. It's a lot easier to support your head if your back is in an even plane rather than an S-bend.
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tafi said:
You should be able to go to the shop and try some different stems on a trainer or something and then leave with the one which is the best. An adjustable stem does not really adjust length, it adjusts rise which, from your description is NOT what you are after.
Hello all
Please have a look at my current adjustable stem design images.
We now accept that access is needed to the cap bolt that tightens the headset bearings!(A Head fitting) We will modify these designs to allow this and make the telescoping sections more rigid.
No creaking/ turning!
I am advised that 4 bolts at the handlebar clamp are needed verse 2...
There is a failsafe built in to the rotating adjustment mechanism to prevent drop under load...
Would really appreciate your comments good or bad....
Can be offered with quill fitting as well.
Suggestion that it could be useful as a 'set up' stem - get your preferred reach / angle then you know which fixed stem best for you.
If not successful as a stem in its own right...
Thanks
Rich
[ATTACH=full]2140[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]2141[/ATTACH]
SY-STEM copyright, US patent obtained, further patents to be applied for following design changes... -
Hey there,
First off, kudos for the head fitting idea! It's great to see innovation in action. About the cap bolt, I'd say making it accessible is a smart move. It'll definitely make adjustments easier.
As for the number of bolts at the handlebar clamp, I'd agree with the advice you've received. Four bolts will provide better stability and reduce any potential for slippage.
The failsafe mechanism sounds like a solid feature too. It's always better to err on the side of caution, especially when it comes to safety.
As for the quill fitting, it's a nice touch that could appeal to a wider audience. Just ensure it maintains the same level of rigidity and functionality.
Looking forward to seeing the modified designs!
Cheers,
BreakawayBen 🙂 -
BreakawayBen said:
Hey there,First off, kudos for the head fitting idea! It's great to see innovation in action. About the cap bolt, I'd say making it accessible is a smart move. It'll definitely make adjustments easier.
As for the number of bolts at the handlebar clamp, I'd agree with the advice you've received. Four bolts will provide better stability and reduce any potential for slippage.
The failsafe mechanism sounds like a solid feature too. It's always better to err on the side of caution, especially when it comes to safety.
As for the quill fitting, it's a nice touch that could appeal to a wider audience. Just ensure it maintains the same level of rigidity and functionality.
Looking forward to seeing the modified designs!
Cheers,
BreakawayBen 🙂
Thanks Ben
Great feedback ...have improved samples but not with cap bolt access yet...need funding to develop it further.
Images.. explodee view of failsafe mechanism, design for cap bolt access, current sample, video of current sample on a bike being ridden. Feedback from rider is that whilst there is a little bit of play they felt confident it would not fail or be unsafe.
Funding.. to develop, improve to eliminate that little bit of play...
I'll reply again as it looks like the video won't attach
Thx Ben
Rich -
RD1000 said:
Thanks Ben
Great feedback ...have improved samples but not with cap bolt access yet...need funding to develop it further.
Images.. explodee view of failsafe mechanism, design for cap bolt access, current sample, video of current sample on a bike being ridden. Feedback from rider is that whilst there is a little bit of play they felt confident it would not fail or be unsafe.
Funding.. to develop, improve to eliminate that little bit of play...
I'll reply again as it looks like the video won't attach
Thx Ben
Rich
Video attached...if won't play then please e mail me at [email hidden]
And I'll send it
Thanks
Rich -
Sure thing, Richard! There is no video that I can see.
🙂
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Hi Ben
Thanks for your reply
Oh yes I would love to progress with all interested parties.. massive global market..
Hmm. yes.. tried to upload video of current sample adjustable carbon fibre stem trial on bike on indoor trainer.. wasn't sure it uploaded..
Can I respectfully suggest.. can we try... if you send me your e mail address and I'll try sending you video and 3-D design images that I uploaded / tried to upload on the forum...
Appreciate your continued interest and patience!
Rich -
BreakawayBen said:
Sure thing, Richard! There is no video that I can see.🙂
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Seems that the video format won't upload on here.
The video is of my carbon fibre adjustable stem on a bike being ridden on an indoor trainer. You can see a little bit of play movement but the cyclist said they were confident it was safe. That's what I need funding for.. to make improved samples.
Thx Ben -
It's not uncommon for carbon fiber components to have some degree of movement or flex, especially when subjected to the forces generated during cycling. However, if the play in the stem is significant enough to be visible in a video, it might be worth investigating further before using it on a regular basis.
When it comes to crowdfunding a project like improving the design and quality of your carbon fiber adjustable stem, it's important to clearly communicate the benefits and unique features of your product to potential backers. You might want to highlight the adjustability of the stem as a key selling point, as this could appeal to cyclists who are looking for a more customizable fit on their bikes.
Additionally, it might be helpful to provide some technical specifications or data on the performance of your stem, such as its weight, stiffness, and durability. This can help build credibility and confidence in your product, and make it more appealing to potential backers.
Overall, it sounds like you have a unique and innovative product that could be of interest to the cycling community. By focusing on the benefits and features of your stem, and providing clear and compelling evidence of its performance, you can increase your chances of successfully funding your project.
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An adjustable stem could be a good start! But remember, it's not just about reaching the bars. Consider your bike fit from head to toe. And hey, welcome to the world of road cycling, where discomfort is a rite of passage! 😉 Any cycling veterans around to share their wisdom?
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